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I just had my condenser replaced at 10719 on a 06 accord v6. Same line from honda as I have read on the internet. I have driven vehicles including many hondas for 25 years and never encountered this issue. I have searched other makes and not seen this problem show up like it has under honda. The oddessey seems to be the most prone but all other models report this as well. The hole is so small you almost cannot see it. The car was driven on interstate roads with no front end damage. I beleive honda is using an inferior condenser that is more fragile than is acceptable. I will write them a letter expressing my disappointment in their apperent lack of concern on this issue. My twenty year love affair with honda may be coming to a bitter end.
I have a Honda Accord 2005, LX, with 25,919 miles, which has a little humming on freeway. On Dec.28, 2006, I drove my car to a Honda Dealership in central California for inspection. After nine hours waiting (I dropped my car there at 7:00 am, and picked it up around 4:00 pm, during this period I don’t know what they did on my car. The business is not busy at all that day), I was told that my car is in a perfect condition, and humming is normal. So I drove it back.
Two weeks later, however, at the night of Jan. 13, 2007, when I drove my car on the way home, it suddenly lost power. And its "engine indicator lamp" was on, so I had to stop it immediately to avoid an accident!
On Jan.15 (Monday), I had my car towed to the same dealership for check. After the first two hours' inspection, I was told that the transmission was broken down and my car needs to be left for two days’ repair. I felt strange. My car was well maintained and always performs very well except a little humming on free way, why it broke down so easily and so quickly just two weeks after I left the dealership? What on earth did they do on my car when they checked my car’s humming during the nine hours?
Next morning, however, I was told that transmission was OK, and it was the emission control system that burned up and broke down. So I waited for an entire day until they finished it. Then I drove my car back.
But, now, a new problem occurred. When wife and I drove my car, we both obviously felt the steering wheel and seats shivering, and engine sounds a little strange and more loudly than before. It’s not normal. So, after several days’ driving, I decided to drive it back to North Honda for help.
On Jan 20, their service consultant test-drove my car for a while, and he said, "It's normal for a car like yours running 25,000 miles already". It's totally an unacceptable explanation. Should it be "normal" for a two-year-old Honda Accord shivering like a post-accident car? Should Honda product quality be as poor as like that? No, I don't think so. I’ve driven my car for two years with 25,000 miles, and I know what driving feeling it was before I send it to that dealership.
Their service manager persuaded me not worrying about it because “if your car has problems later, and we will repair it again for free in warranty”. But the reason why I purchased my Honda Accord is absolutely not to drive my car back to dealership again and again for repair. Moreover, with such a poor service in that dealership, I hardly dare to let them touch my car again. They seem like do something unnecessarily or improperly on my car instead of servicing it seriously like professional Honda mechanics. I wonder if they hope my car to be in somewhat bad condition and then to earn their big profit by repairing my car again and again after my warranty is over this year. Some of my friends guess so. I hope it’s not.
To avoid being subjective, I asked mechanics from other auto shops to test-drive my car yesterday. They both said it’s a little abnormal and a car with two years should not be like that. That’s enough. With shaky steering wheel, louder engine noise and abnormal condition, what I'm most concerned is its driving safety! I had one terrible experience on high way one week ago, and now we really don’t want to risk it again in the near future. Because of this, I don’t dare to drive it too far away, and that’s definitely not the previous purpose of my buying Honda Accord two years ago.
Because of this, I try to contact Honda to see if my car could be sent to Honda manufacturer for mechanic adjustment including safety inspection and to be restored to its previous condition one weeks ago. Do you think it possible? Or do you think it's a good idea to purchase an extended warranty? Thank you very much.
Thank you for being thorough and direct in your post first of all...
I truthfully do no know what the problem in your vehicle is. My father's 2005 EX I4 with over 65,000 miles drove identically to my 2006 when it was new (only has 15,500 miles on it now). Your condition of a shaky wheel and more engine noise does not sound normal to me though. I can't offer much advice, but instead only support. Best of luck, and let us know how things turn out. Seems like I'd go ahead and file a complaint with Honda Corporate, just to be on the record before many miles are added on.
I would take it to another dealership to have them look at it with a fresh set of eyes. It is not normal (and 25K is not enough miles for it to wear out!) Plus, if it went to the shop performing one way and left performing differently, then they did something.
Where ever you take it, find out what was done previously. That should give yo ua clue what might have been done (or where the problem area is). Could be many things, but definitely should be resolved.
Honda corporate isn't going to do anything except tell you to take it in to the dealer again. If you are still dissatisfied after the next visit, then call corporate to complain some more.
There are several reasons why I suspect they do some dirty work on my two-year-old Honda Accord:
1. Just two weeks after their humming check, then my car broke down on free way. Before humming inspection, my car perform very well.
2.Everytime when I visited that dealership, they always asked me to leave my car for a whole day or two days, even just for humming check, while their bussiness is not busy at all.
3.When I towed my car to the dealership and told them "the engine light on", they still told me that transmission broke down, and asked my leave my car for two days to repair. The Honda manual clearly say that "the engine light on" indicates the emission control system problem. Don't Honda mechanics know this common sense? Or, they just want more time to do something dirty on my car when I went home??
4.On the second day morning, they told me transimission is OK. Then they spent the whole day to fix emission control system, which at the front desk the service consultant told me it's a minor problem and mechanic spent only two hours to fix it. Who know what they did on my car during the whole day?
5.Finally, my 2-year-old car become 15-year-old. Shaking, shaking, and shaking...
6.My warranty will be over this year, they are preparing for getting big money from my pocket. It's just what I guess.
it's hard to tell what exactly happened to you and your car. i can assure you though your emissions control system didn't "burn up" or "burn out". i don't know what to make from that report.
perhaps excessive vibration is caused by a poor engine mount, and yet, because you had the car loose power (i presume the engine shut off), it's possible there is an ignition / cylinder problem, injector problem, fuel pressure delivery problem, or idle adjustment problem.
it can't be diagnosed over the web. take it to someone else.
i think you need to bring it into another dealership.
Is there another Honda dealership around for a 2nd opinion? My guess is they may have knocked off the front end alignment or forgot to tighten the engine/tranny mounts when they attempted to remove the tranny which they thought it's broken in the first place.
If you intend to keep a car long, I would recommend to purchase an EW.
Hi folks, Just wanted to give you an update on my engine vibration issue which I posted last week. I took my car (04 Accord AT 18K mi) into a local dealer here in Bellevue, WA. I was able to talk to a "quality assurance manager" who sat in my car for a road test. He didn't think that my engine had any particular issues, but he advised that I bring my car in for a check-up on brakes/rotors. At the same time, I was told that it would be covered under warranty. I took my car in, and a "service adivser" told me I'd get charged for either new brakes or re-surfacing the rotors.
At that I just asked him to look into it, rather than requesting new brakes or rotors be resurfaced. I asked the same for realignment of the wheels. I got a call later on telling me that everything was covered under warranty. I still have the issue of the car pulling to the left (more noticeable at a high speed), but I guess my lesson learned is, be persistent! I'm still going to nag them for that one little issue I've got. Good luck!
The problem is Honda has a big gaping hole in front of the condenser in some models now while others have smaller openings. Go to Home Depot, buy some gutter guard and cut it to size, attach it to the big opening in the bumper using zip ties. You could spray paint the mesh on the gutter guard black first and use black zip ties.
A service consultant from other city's dealership test-drove my car and he said it's a slight abnormal and temperorily need not to fix it.
Not speaking of the shaky steering wheel, the gas mileage now is terrible for my car, 20m/g and 19 m/g (I've added gas twice since repair work was done). Mixed local and highway. Before going to the dealship, with the same road and the same driver, gas mileage is 28-30m/g. So, obviously, they did a bad job on car.
I'm frustrated about that issue,and I don't dare to drive my car in a long distance with such a bad condition. It's my painful experience in that Honda Dealership, and nobody can help me even the dealership obviously did bad thing on my car.
Purchase EW seems a good idea, but I don't want to drive my car to repair again and again and worry about my safety on free way. So, maybe I have to trade in my car before the factory warrnaty is over. That may make Honda dealership happy, but I have no choice.
I file complain yesterday to Honda Consumer Service. Thank you for reminding of me. But I don't know what they can do it for me. I'm considering trading in my car someday before the warranty is over. I don't want to repair my car many times with poor performance.
It's my nightmare in that Honda Dealership which ruined my confidence in Honda although their product quality is good, their dealership service is too bad. A group of terrible guys.
I bought some 1/4 inch wire mesh from home depot. Cut it to the size to cover both the the top and bottom opening of the grille. Tie wrapped it to anchor in place. I is behind the bumper ant that visible so I did not paint it. It looks like it will do the trick. BTW, the damage to the original condenser was minimal. I am very disappointed in Honda's lack of response to this issue. Concerns me about the quality control. I have had 10 different honda automobiles in the last twenty years. They have always given me good service. Someone suggest complaining to NHTSA to try and force honda to respond. I will report this failure so it can add to the count.
In your January 25, 2007 Post #2019 you wrote, "I beleive honda is using an inferior condenser that is more fragile than is acceptable. I will write them a letter expressing my disappointment in their apperent lack of concern on this issue. My twenty year love affair with honda may be coming to a bitter end."
In your January 27, 2007 Post #2030 you wrote, regarding accidental damage to your A/C condenser by a flying rock, "I am very disappointed in Honda's lack of response to this issue."
Your inference that this accidental incident is somehow part of a Honda conspiracy to deny you coverage has no basis. A search of the 13,114 postings in closed predecessor Honda Accord Owners: Problems & Solutions forum from June 24, 2000 through December 12, 2005 and this follow-on forum since its December 12, 2005 inception, covering Accords for model years 2003 through 2006 reveals that of 2,031 postings, there is only ONE OTHER reported incident of such accidental damage to an A/C compressor. That was reported in Post #916 dated June 21, 2006.
Search honda condenser damage and you will find others. Granted more folks with oddesseys seem to have a bigger problems then others likely a result of the size of there grille opening. I don't disargee that having pebbles hit the condenser was not accidental but the part failing from such a common road hazard is what is unacceptable. In fact the damage was so minor that the dent is barely visible and was an apparent slow leak. I have read many reports on this issue since 2003 model years. I am posting this here so others can become aware that they could face a costly non covered repair even with a brand new car. Do yourself a favor and protect the condenser from COMMON road debris ie pebbles. Honda has reputation of not producing garbage. If this was an american make I would not have been surprised to have such a fragile part in my vehicle. Just hope honda is not going down the all to common road of becoming fat and lazy and resting on their past rep.
Had it happen on an Acura RSX too and I've heard other RSX owners talk about it as well. Thus my familiarity with Home Depot DIY grill inserts. The dealer actually managed to replace mine under warranty and pass it off as a factory defect since the damage was not really visible. With mesh grill in place, it wasn't ever a problem again... they really need to start rethinking the big gaping hole in the front that allows stuff to hit the condenser.
I suspect Honda probably ends up eating the cost of replacing at least some of the condensers under warranty if the damage wasn't apparent to them. If it was, the dealers really have no choice in the issue.
Tell us what normal "local" and "highway" driving consist of, so we'll have a better idea please. Also we need to know the engine and transmission type.
We don't know your driving style but if you had a 600 mile highway trip and only got 25 mpg, something is very wrong.... with the car or how you drive it.
I drive an automatic transimission LX model, and I'd say I get about 25 mpg local driving, which includes stop-and-go traffic on freeway. I haven't driven purely on freeway, so not sure what the mpg is in that situation.
i leave the vehicle in D almost exclusively, unless i need extra umph to pass or make a steep grade. i will shift it out of D or put my foot on the accelerator...both will cause a downshift to lower-gear and more passing power.
if i'm in a situation where there is a significant delay moving forward, i take it out of D and put it in P.
N? only if someone were pushing me between 2 points.
2? when i was starting out in slippery conditions.
I'm curious about the traffic light "sitting" as well. There are 2 traffic lights in my 30 mile drive to work. I usually just leave the tranny in D and pull the ebrake. I'm so used to just putting the car on cruise (29 miles interstate) that it really annoys me to hold the break for the 30-45 seconds at the traffic light. I don't think the motor sees a difference between the front brakes and rear brakes holding the car. My foot does though :P
Um, it would be REALLY smart to actually use the brake pedal and not just the handbrake when you are stopped, and here's why I say that.
1.) When you use the e-brake, no brakelights appear. An inattentive driver who has been doing their makeup or eating their big-mac may see "no brake-lights" and decide that you are about to move and in return, they start moving too if they are already behind you stopped. If they arent stopped, a car without brakelights on will not make a driver realize that you are stopped, especially if approaching the traffic light at a quick rate of speed.
2.) Using the e-brake, you are not applying as much braking power as you would with the brake pedal. This means, if you did happen to be rear-ended, you are much more likely to be pushed into the car in front of you.
see "no brake-lights" and decide that you are about to move and in return, they start moving too if they are already behind you stopped.
Anyone who makes a decision to move forward from the tail lights in front of them should not be driving PERIOD
If they arent stopped, a car without brakelights on will not make a driver realize that you are stopped, especially if approaching the traffic light at a quick rate of speed.
If I am stopped at the traffic light and see a car coming down the off ramp I tap the brakes. I also turn the hazards on when driving on the interstate and I see the traffic up ahead coming to a halt for whatever reason. Also, use the hazards in heavy rain.
Using the e-brake, you are not applying as much braking power as you would with the brake pedal. This means, if you did happen to be rear-ended, you are much more likely to be pushed into the car in front of you.
If you are unknowingly rearended do you think your foot is going to remain on the pedal and keep you from hitting the vehicle in front of you?
So, in a manual tranny car, you would only use the brake pedal and never the e-brake while the car is ON?
If you are unknowingly rearended do you think your foot is going to remain on the pedal and keep you from hitting the vehicle in front of you?
Yep, happened to me when I was 15. It kept me from going completely into the intersection (I was the front car).
Anyone who makes a decision to move forward from the tail lights in front of them should not be driving PERIOD
True, but if everyone with a license drove properly all the time with full attention paid to the road and the cars around them, we wouldn't have collision centers and body shops.
So, in a manual tranny car, you would only use the brake pedal and never the e-brake while the car is ON?
When did I say that? I would use the e-brake to help me if I was starting off on a steep hill. Otherwise, I'd use the brake pedal to stop and remain stationary, since that's what it is there for.
The EMERGENCY (or Parking) brake is for emergencies and parking. Idling in traffic for ½ to ¾ of one minute surely does not constitute an emergency, and since it is in a traffic lane, it surely doesn't constitute parking.
Hey, hybrid, why even bother to use your brake pedal at all? Why should your right foot works so hard? Just keep your left hand on the wheel, and your right hand on the e-brake and whenever you need to stop, or slow down, just pull the e-brake and viola...And your front brake pads stay as good as new -- FOREVER!
"I got the mpg from one long trip of 600 miles purely on highway." --At what SPEED? You sure must be aware that driving those 600 miles at 85 mph would make a bit of a dent on your gas mileage, vs. driving them at a steady 60....
Guys, I needed to replace the wiper blades inserts today, and when I bought those parts from a dealer, I asked to see if they'd be covered under warranty. It turns out they cover those parts up to 12K miles or 1 year. I only asked about it since I have low miles on my Accord and under warranty. I have a feeling other "small" items like that might be covered under warranty. Hope this helps.
The EMERGENCY (or Parking) brake is for emergencies and parking The hand brake is not the "Emergency" brake. If you use it at a high speed, you'll run great risk of locking up your rear tyres and fishtailing. I suppose it is commonly known that when brake fails, down shift through the gears and do not touch the hand brake until at a slow speed.
What I learnt in driving school (20 years ago in the UK with stick shift and no power steering) is that when stopped for more than a few seconds, put the car in neutral, and apply handbrake! This is required by the highway code and it makes sense: you won't roll backwards or forwards even if the brake fails at that moment, and when start moving again, you can control the car with hand brake while your foot moves to the gas pedal.
Even with automatics, it is still advisable to apply handbrake when stopped uphill, especially in places like San Francisco.
Even with automatics, it is still advisable to apply handbrake when stopped uphill, especially in places like San Francisco.
On a steep hill, sure I'll use my emergency brake. But otherwise, it is wasted wear on that part of the car when the pedal-operated brake illuminates your brakelights.
In my car, I want the brakelamps lit when I'm stopped at a redlight, to let drivers approaching me from the rear know "hey, this guy isn't going anywhere." Extra red lights are good to alert an inattentive driver following me, in my opinion.
What I learnt in driving school (20 years ago in the UK with stick shift and no power steering) is that when stopped for more than a few seconds, put the car in neutral, and apply handbrake! This is required by the highway code and it makes sense: you won't roll backwards or forwards even if the brake fails at that moment, and when start moving again, you can control the car with hand brake while your foot moves to the gas pedal.
What you learned in driving school doesn't make sense to me. Other than taking off on a steep uphill grade, why not use the pedal? You will have one hand to engage first gear, one hand to release the brake, and one hand on the wheel... great plan, except my body only came with two hands. It just seems much more simple to use the brakes as they were intended and use the pedal. (By the way, I understand putting the manual in neutral, just not why one wouldn't use the brake pedal).
Hey guys I'm new at this so dont know much. but I have an 03 accord ex I4, and recently my car all of sudden feels really heavy. well the main problem first was that the engine sounded really loud and then when ever I let go of the accelerator, the car kinda jerks(feels like its shifting gears) and also when I press the accelerator, it jerks back. so I went to a honda dealership and they said it was just the computer chip in the car and they had to adjust it. But now since I got it back, the car doesn't drive the same. I have to press the acc. really hard for the car to move and the cold start even doesn't move my car as fast as it used to. I think its the transmission but I dont know.....
when it is cold outside (say less than 50 F) and i shift from P to R or D, the car jerks significantly. it feels as if someone is kicking me from behind. if i drive a few miles and then stop and change from P to R or D, there is no jerk at all. my dealer tells me that when the fluid is cold, it will cause the car to jerk. after driving the fluid warms up and lubricates the transmission well. but the 'kicking me from behind' thing is annoying and i am wondering if this will cause the transmission to fail quickly. anyone else has had this experience.
Not necessary true. You want to apply the brakes hard if the car is equipped with ABS. For the ebrake, I use it when I park the car on an uphill/downhill, and not during the winter though. The other time I used it was the brake pedal on my 89Accord was slowly shinking to the floor while the car was stopped at the traffic lights. Tranny was also shifted to N at the time.
The other time I used it was the brake pedal on my 89Accord was slowly shinking to the floor while the car was stopped at the traffic lights.
Ah, a leaking master cylinder. Did that at 155k miles on my '96 last year. And yes, i used the emergency brake then, too. That had slipped my mind. I still kept my foot on the pedal though.
For the ebrake, I use it when I park the car on an uphill/downhill, and not during the winter though
If you splash through slushy puddles and then park for the freezing night, some exposed parts may not be too happy about breaking the ice off of them the following morning. Its very rare, but it can happen with emergency brakes.
If you splash through slushy puddles and then park for the freezing night, some exposed parts may not be too happy about breaking the ice off of them the following morning. Its very rare, but it can happen with emergency brakes.
Makes sense to me! I'm heading to the airport in a bit, and will be using my brake pedal to do the stopping and remaining stopped. :-)
Anybody here have a problem with their windshield washer in cold weather? I've noticed that if the temp goes even a couple degrees below freezing, the windshield washer doesn't work. I hear the pump going, but nothing comes out. Normally I put in full strength windshield washer fluid, but the car is relatively new, and I haven't had to put any fluid in yet.
Could the dealer have put in straight water?
This morning, it was 29 degrees, and the washers wouldn't work. Even after driving for 20 minutes, they still wouldn't work. I would have thought the engine heat would have warmed up the fluid. We're not talking 20 below here, just slightly below freezing. On other cars I've owned, I only see this behavior when the temps are in the low teens or single digits.
I recently purchased an '06 V6 accord sedan with a 6 speed manual transmission. I bought the car used with 8K miles. Since I have had the car I've noticed an intermittent vibration when idling. In traffic or at red lights it feels as if the entire car is vibrating and once I get the engine rev' ed up and start moving it goes away.
I have had the car to several dealers numerous times and have been unsuccessful in having the issue identified or resolved. One dealer claims it is characteristic of the car while another had reset the engine mounts. This issue has caused me quite a bit of frustration and I have contacted Honda directly for resolution and the process has been very slow.
Has anyone experienced a vibration like this is their Accord? If so, was the dealer able to resolve? Any advice or info. would be appreciated.
Sorry for omitting the boring details: 1. Anticipate about moving again, clutch down and shift from N to 1st. 2. Balance the car by letting the clutch bite slightly and giving some gas. 3. Release hand brake, release the clutch and give more gas. Off you go.
With practice, it becomes second nature and can all be done in a split second. Maybe now with the hill-hold feature on some cars, pulling hand brake is not necessary, but I don't know if they work on manual shift cars.
Well, it's obvious that we're not going to completely agree, since I don't do this in manuals, either. I just drove my granddad's '99 Frontier 5MT this weekend, and used the parking brake...er...when I parked. Otherwise, I put the truck in neutral and used the brake pedal at traffic lights.
Yes, I've had the same problem with the windshield washers not working in cold weather. I'm going to ask the dealer about it the next time I'm in for service. I really needed them on a long trip that included a mountain pass recently. I thought the reservoir was empty or something. :sick:
I read in the Transportation section in our local newspaper about Honda's recall on the 2003-2005 Accord driver's Air Bag... Anybody got a message from Honda about this issue?
As a long-time driver of manual transmissions, I've used this technique at times on very steep hills with a car on my tail or when getting ready to leave an uphill parking space at a curb with a car behind me. If there is no car behind me, there is no need to use the handbrake because I can get going without rolling back too far. It is a great method for drivers without a lot of "hill confidence".
Therefore, if there is no car behind me, any car that pulls up would see my brake lights. Once the car pulls up, I might put on the handbrake in anticipation of taking off uphill but by then any other car couldn't see my brake lights anyway.
For me, there is absolutely no need to use this method on flat roads or even small hills.
And for the record, it is always important to shift the car into neutral in a manual while waiting for a light... instead of holding the clutch in. Hard on the clutch otherwise.
Comments
Two weeks later, however, at the night of Jan. 13, 2007, when I drove my car on the way home, it suddenly lost power. And its "engine indicator lamp" was on, so I had to stop it immediately to avoid an accident!
On Jan.15 (Monday), I had my car towed to the same dealership for check. After the first two hours' inspection, I was told that the transmission was broken down and my car needs to be left for two days’ repair. I felt strange. My car was well maintained and always performs very well except a little humming on free way, why it broke down so easily and so quickly just two weeks after I left the dealership? What on earth did they do on my car when they checked my car’s humming during the nine hours?
Next morning, however, I was told that transmission was OK, and it was the emission control system that burned up and broke down. So I waited for an entire day until they finished it. Then I drove my car back.
But, now, a new problem occurred. When wife and I drove my car, we both obviously felt the steering wheel and seats shivering, and engine sounds a little strange and more loudly than before. It’s not normal. So, after several days’ driving, I decided to drive it back to North Honda for help.
On Jan 20, their service consultant test-drove my car for a while, and he said, "It's normal for a car like yours running 25,000 miles already". It's totally an unacceptable explanation. Should it be "normal" for a two-year-old Honda Accord shivering like a post-accident car? Should Honda product quality be as poor as like that? No, I don't think so. I’ve driven my car for two years with 25,000 miles, and I know what driving feeling it was before I send it to that dealership.
Their service manager persuaded me not worrying about it because “if your car has problems later, and we will repair it again for free in warranty”. But the reason why I purchased my Honda Accord is absolutely not to drive my car back to dealership again and again for repair. Moreover, with such a poor service in that dealership, I hardly dare to let them touch my car again. They seem like do something unnecessarily or improperly on my car instead of servicing it seriously like professional Honda mechanics. I wonder if they hope my car to be in somewhat bad condition and then to earn their big profit by repairing my car again and again after my warranty is over this year. Some of my friends guess so. I hope it’s not.
To avoid being subjective, I asked mechanics from other auto shops to test-drive my car yesterday. They both said it’s a little abnormal and a car with two years should not be like that. That’s enough. With shaky steering wheel, louder engine noise and abnormal condition, what I'm most concerned is its driving safety! I had one terrible experience on high way one week ago, and now we really don’t want to risk it again in the near future. Because of this, I don’t dare to drive it too far away, and that’s definitely not the previous purpose of my buying Honda Accord two years ago.
Because of this, I try to contact Honda to see if my car could be sent to Honda manufacturer for mechanic adjustment including safety inspection and to be restored to its previous condition one weeks ago. Do you think it possible? Or do you think it's a good idea to purchase an extended warranty? Thank you very much.
I truthfully do no know what the problem in your vehicle is. My father's 2005 EX I4 with over 65,000 miles drove identically to my 2006 when it was new (only has 15,500 miles on it now). Your condition of a shaky wheel and more engine noise does not sound normal to me though. I can't offer much advice, but instead only support. Best of luck, and let us know how things turn out. Seems like I'd go ahead and file a complaint with Honda Corporate, just to be on the record before many miles are added on.
Where ever you take it, find out what was done previously. That should give yo ua clue what might have been done (or where the problem area is). Could be many things, but definitely should be resolved.
Honda corporate isn't going to do anything except tell you to take it in to the dealer again. If you are still dissatisfied after the next visit, then call corporate to complain some more.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
1. Just two weeks after their humming check, then my car broke down on free way. Before humming inspection, my car perform very well.
2.Everytime when I visited that dealership, they always asked me to leave my car for a whole day or two days, even just for humming check, while their bussiness is not busy at all.
3.When I towed my car to the dealership and told them "the engine light on", they still told me that transmission broke down, and asked my leave my car for two days to repair. The Honda manual clearly say that "the engine light on" indicates the emission control system problem. Don't Honda mechanics know this common sense? Or, they just want more time to do something dirty on my car when I went home??
4.On the second day morning, they told me transimission is OK. Then they spent the whole day to fix emission control system, which at the front desk the service consultant told me it's a minor problem and mechanic spent only two hours to fix it. Who know what they did on my car during the whole day?
5.Finally, my 2-year-old car become 15-year-old. Shaking, shaking, and shaking...
6.My warranty will be over this year, they are preparing for getting big money from my pocket. It's just what I guess.
it's hard to tell what exactly happened to you and your car. i can assure you though your emissions control system didn't "burn up" or "burn out". i don't know what to make from that report.
perhaps excessive vibration is caused by a poor engine mount, and yet, because you had the car loose power (i presume the engine shut off), it's possible there is an ignition / cylinder problem, injector problem, fuel pressure delivery problem, or idle adjustment problem.
it can't be diagnosed over the web. take it to someone else.
i think you need to bring it into another dealership.
My guess is they may have knocked off the front end
alignment or forgot to tighten the engine/tranny mounts when
they attempted to remove the tranny which they thought it's broken in the first place.
If you intend to keep a car long, I would recommend to
purchase an EW.
Just wanted to give you an update on my engine vibration issue which I posted last week. I took my car (04 Accord AT 18K mi) into a local dealer here in Bellevue, WA. I was able to talk to a "quality assurance manager" who sat in my car for a road test. He didn't think that my engine had any particular issues, but he advised that I bring my car in for a check-up on brakes/rotors. At the same time, I was told that it would be covered under warranty. I took my car in, and a "service adivser" told me I'd get charged for either new brakes or re-surfacing the rotors.
At that I just asked him to look into it, rather than requesting new brakes or rotors be resurfaced. I asked the same for realignment of the wheels. I got a call later on telling me that everything was covered under warranty. I still have the issue of the car pulling to the left (more noticeable at a high speed), but I guess my lesson learned is, be persistent! I'm still going to nag them for that one little issue I've got. Good luck!
Not speaking of the shaky steering wheel, the gas mileage now is terrible for my car, 20m/g and 19 m/g (I've added gas twice since repair work was done). Mixed local and highway. Before going to the dealship, with the same road and the same driver, gas mileage is 28-30m/g. So, obviously, they did a bad job on car.
I'm frustrated about that issue,and I don't dare to drive my car in a long distance with such a bad condition. It's my painful experience in that Honda Dealership, and nobody can help me even the dealership obviously did bad thing on my car.
Purchase EW seems a good idea, but I don't want to drive my car to repair again and again and worry about my safety on free way. So, maybe I have to trade in my car before the factory warrnaty is over. That may make Honda dealership happy, but I have no choice.
It's my nightmare in that Honda Dealership which ruined my confidence in Honda although their product quality is good, their dealership service is too bad. A group of terrible guys.
In your January 25, 2007 Post #2019 you wrote, "I beleive honda is using an inferior condenser that is more fragile than is acceptable. I will write them a letter expressing my disappointment in their apperent lack of concern on this issue. My twenty year love affair with honda may be coming to a bitter end."
In your January 27, 2007 Post #2030 you wrote, regarding accidental damage to your A/C condenser by a flying rock, "I am very disappointed in Honda's lack of response to this issue."
Your inference that this accidental incident is somehow part of a Honda conspiracy to deny you coverage has no basis. A search of the 13,114 postings in closed predecessor Honda Accord Owners: Problems & Solutions forum from June 24, 2000 through December 12, 2005 and this follow-on forum since its December 12, 2005 inception, covering Accords for model years 2003 through 2006 reveals that of 2,031 postings, there is only ONE OTHER reported incident of such accidental damage to an A/C compressor. That was reported in Post #916 dated June 21, 2006.
I suspect Honda probably ends up eating the cost of replacing at least some of the condensers under warranty if the damage wasn't apparent to them. If it was, the dealers really have no choice in the issue.
It is a little hard to describe the local situation. Basically, the speed is around 30-40mile/hour, 2-3 trafic lights per mile.
When I say highway, I got the mpg from one long trip of 600 miles purely on highway.
Thanks.
Also, when I'm stopped at a traffic light, is it better for the transmission to shift the gear to N than letting the gear stay in D?
Let me know your thoughts.
if i'm in a situation where there is a significant delay moving forward, i take it out of D and put it in P.
N? only if someone were pushing me between 2 points.
2? when i was starting out in slippery conditions.
your manual covers this stuff i think.
1.) When you use the e-brake, no brakelights appear. An inattentive driver who has been doing their makeup or eating their big-mac may see "no brake-lights" and decide that you are about to move and in return, they start moving too if they are already behind you stopped. If they arent stopped, a car without brakelights on will not make a driver realize that you are stopped, especially if approaching the traffic light at a quick rate of speed.
2.) Using the e-brake, you are not applying as much braking power as you would with the brake pedal. This means, if you did happen to be rear-ended, you are much more likely to be pushed into the car in front of you.
Do yourself a favor and use the brake pedal.
Anyone who makes a decision to move forward from the tail lights in front of them should not be driving PERIOD
If they arent stopped, a car without brakelights on will not make a driver realize that you are stopped, especially if approaching the traffic light at a quick rate of speed.
If I am stopped at the traffic light and see a car coming down the off ramp I tap the brakes. I also turn the hazards on when driving on the interstate and I see the traffic up ahead coming to a halt for whatever reason. Also, use the hazards in heavy rain.
Using the e-brake, you are not applying as much braking power as you would with the brake pedal. This means, if you did happen to be rear-ended, you are much more likely to be pushed into the car in front of you.
If you are unknowingly rearended do you think your foot is going to remain on the pedal and keep you from hitting the vehicle in front of you?
So, in a manual tranny car, you would only use the brake pedal and never the e-brake while the car is ON?
Yep, happened to me when I was 15. It kept me from going completely into the intersection (I was the front car).
Anyone who makes a decision to move forward from the tail lights in front of them should not be driving PERIOD
True, but if everyone with a license drove properly all the time with full attention paid to the road and the cars around them, we wouldn't have collision centers and body shops.
So, in a manual tranny car, you would only use the brake pedal and never the e-brake while the car is ON?
When did I say that? I would use the e-brake to help me if I was starting off on a steep hill. Otherwise, I'd use the brake pedal to stop and remain stationary, since that's what it is there for.
What's the point?
Ahhh, life can be beautiful indeed.
I needed to replace the wiper blades inserts today, and when I bought those parts from a dealer, I asked to see if they'd be covered under warranty. It turns out they cover those parts up to 12K miles or 1 year. I only asked about it since I have low miles on my Accord and under warranty. I have a feeling other "small" items like that might be covered under warranty. Hope this helps.
The hand brake is not the "Emergency" brake. If you use it at a high speed, you'll run great risk of locking up your rear tyres and fishtailing. I suppose it is commonly known that when brake fails, down shift through the gears and do not touch the hand brake until at a slow speed.
What I learnt in driving school (20 years ago in the UK with stick shift and no power steering) is that when stopped for more than a few seconds, put the car in neutral, and apply handbrake! This is required by the highway code and it makes sense: you won't roll backwards or forwards even if the brake fails at that moment, and when start moving again, you can control the car with hand brake while your foot moves to the gas pedal.
Even with automatics, it is still advisable to apply handbrake when stopped uphill, especially in places like San Francisco.
On a steep hill, sure I'll use my emergency brake. But otherwise, it is wasted wear on that part of the car when the pedal-operated brake illuminates your brakelights.
In my car, I want the brakelamps lit when I'm stopped at a redlight, to let drivers approaching me from the rear know "hey, this guy isn't going anywhere." Extra red lights are good to alert an inattentive driver following me, in my opinion.
What I learnt in driving school (20 years ago in the UK with stick shift and no power steering) is that when stopped for more than a few seconds, put the car in neutral, and apply handbrake! This is required by the highway code and it makes sense: you won't roll backwards or forwards even if the brake fails at that moment, and when start moving again, you can control the car with hand brake while your foot moves to the gas pedal.
What you learned in driving school doesn't make sense to me. Other than taking off on a steep uphill grade, why not use the pedal? You will have one hand to engage first gear, one hand to release the brake, and one hand on the wheel... great plan, except my body only came with two hands. It just seems much more simple to use the brakes as they were intended and use the pedal. (By the way, I understand putting the manual in neutral, just not why one wouldn't use the brake pedal).
Just like the main braking system if you apply the brakes too hard. You use the emergency brake like you would the pedal-brake: with common sense.
thanks a lot
--gopi
You want to apply the brakes hard if the car is equipped with ABS.
For the ebrake, I use it when I park the car on an uphill/downhill, and not during the winter though.
The other time I used it was the brake pedal on my 89Accord
was slowly shinking to the floor while the car was stopped
at the traffic lights. Tranny was also shifted to N at the time.
was slowly shinking to the floor while the car was stopped
at the traffic lights.
Ah, a leaking master cylinder. Did that at 155k miles on my '96 last year. And yes, i used the emergency brake then, too. That had slipped my mind. I still kept my foot on the pedal though.
For the ebrake, I use it when I park the car on an uphill/downhill, and not during the winter though
Why not during the winter?
I guess you don't have too many freezing days in Alabama.
In Alabama, our average is 52 for the high in Jan., 31 for the low.
These weeks have been colder than normal - high in the upper 30s or low 40s, lows in the mid teens to mid 20s.
But, to a lot, this is March weather, not January.
If you splash through slushy puddles and then park for the freezing night, some exposed parts may not be too happy about breaking the ice off of them the following morning. Its very rare, but it can happen with emergency brakes.
If you splash through slushy puddles and then park for the freezing night, some exposed parts may not be too happy about breaking the ice off of them the following morning. Its very rare, but it can happen with emergency brakes.
Makes sense to me! I'm heading to the airport in a bit, and will be using my brake pedal to do the stopping and remaining stopped. :-)
Could the dealer have put in straight water?
This morning, it was 29 degrees, and the washers wouldn't work. Even after driving for 20 minutes, they still wouldn't work. I would have thought the engine heat would have warmed up the fluid. We're not talking 20 below here, just slightly below freezing. On other cars I've owned, I only see this behavior when the temps are in the low teens or single digits.
I have had the car to several dealers numerous times and have been unsuccessful in having the issue identified or resolved. One dealer claims it is characteristic of the car while another had reset the engine mounts. This issue has caused me quite a bit of frustration and I have contacted Honda directly for resolution and the process has been very slow.
Has anyone experienced a vibration like this is their Accord? If so, was the dealer able to resolve? Any advice or info. would be appreciated.
1. Anticipate about moving again, clutch down and shift from N to 1st.
2. Balance the car by letting the clutch bite slightly and giving some gas.
3. Release hand brake, release the clutch and give more gas. Off you go.
With practice, it becomes second nature and can all be done in a split second. Maybe now with the hill-hold feature on some cars, pulling hand brake is not necessary, but I don't know if they work on manual shift cars.
Therefore, if there is no car behind me, any car that pulls up would see my brake lights. Once the car pulls up, I might put on the handbrake in anticipation of taking off uphill but by then any other car couldn't see my brake lights anyway.
For me, there is absolutely no need to use this method on flat roads or even small hills.
And for the record, it is always important to shift the car into neutral in a manual while waiting for a light... instead of holding the clutch in. Hard on the clutch otherwise.