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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jasonmaxjasonmax Member Posts: 1
    Hey, thegraduate. I'm surprised at you! The cabin air filter replacement is the biggest ripoff in the dealer service department's stable. You can pick up a filter at the local auto parts store for $15-$20 and install it yourself in all of 5 minutes. You sound like too smart a kid and too well informed about your Accords (and Hondas in general), that I would never think you would fall for that. Most dealers charge $100+. What did you pay for that?

    Sorry to be so hard on you. I get all my service (only what Honda recommends (mostly throuhg the "minder" system), at the dealer, but not all the extras that the dealer has on their list of 15,000, 30,000 mile, etc. "required" service. And I do the very simple stuff, like the cabin air filter, myself.
  • wajeeh_rwajeeh_r Member Posts: 6
    Hello all,

    I have Accord 2003,Automatic Transmission, 5/6 Days back I faced a problem when i moved the key to ignition III to start engine,I Could see all the lights on Dash board which come for few seconds but engine didnt started. I took out the key and tried again after 15/20 secs and it started, The car was in P.

    Next day same problem i faced so i changed the battery to a brand new one because the old one was about to finish its life. Now again I faced same problem as i moved the key to ignition III it didnt started but i can see all lights on dash board also there is no CLICK CLICK sound which normally indicates a self problem, I took out the Key then tried after 30 Secs and engine started normally, no malfunction indicator lamp light nothing, just very very normal.

    Can any one guide what it Could be? and Yes one time in recent days it happened that car wasnt starting so i Moved the Gear to N, while putting key in ignition III and engine started normally.

    Please let me know I am new to Honda and recently bought it used car. it is regularly maintained at Honda Work shop since it was bought from showroom, I dont think it could be a big issue, Please help me

    if u need to know some other details to answer me please feel free to ask.

    regards,
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Yeah, I know how they USED to work. :)

    Now, sometimes they don't turn on when I click "unlock." Only when I open the door will they turn on.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    Can you try with another fob key?
  • floridacarmanfloridacarman Member Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem with my 95 odyessy. Basically what happend was the seals got hard in a number of places and it began to leak at the distributor, by the oil filter and also at the valve cover. Given the miles you have on your vehicle, I would start looking there as potential culprits, especially if you have gotten your engine really hot due to lack of coolant or other problem. It is not "normal" and you would be wise to hunt down the problem. I nearly got stranded when the oil started draining through my van. Also check your sparkplug wires to see if oil is accumulating there -- if so you have a problem with the upper AND lower seals on your cam. This is NOT recommended as a DIY repair.

    I am trying to find out how the transmissions are holding up on the 04' Accords as I need to advise my mother in-law on whether to purchase the extended warranty or not. It's a 4cyl automatic Accord EX with about 12,000 miles on it. Any insights?
  • floridacarmanfloridacarman Member Posts: 2
    I am trying to advise my mother in-law on whether or not to purchase the extended warranty for her 04' Honda Accord 4cyl which as about 12,000 miles on it. The warranty is about to expire and the car has not had any problems. My main concern is the transmission problems that Honda has been plagued with over the last few years. This car is truly driven very lightly by a little old lady on a daily basis about 5 miles per day almost never over 45 miles per hour.

    Any insights?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The V6 automatic trannys had a recall in 03-04, but the I4 trannies have not had any problems at all, that I know of. My recalled V6 transmission is still going great at 52k miles.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I second elroy's opinion. The 4-cyl Accords have had no known issues with their transmissions. My family has had 3 4-cylinder Accords from that generation, none exhibited (or currently exhibit) any transmission problems whatsoever.

    Best regards, floridacarman!

    Thegraduate

    2006 Accord EX 4-cyl 5AT, 29,400mi
    1996 Accord LX 4-cyl 4AT, 178,500mi
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    Since the car is not driven much, I wouldn't bother to buy the EW.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    I would bring the car to the dealer since it's still covered under basic warranty.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    As stated in an earlier post, I have a little maintenance work due, and I plan to have it looked at then. Thanks for taking the time to reply! :)
  • njsurfboatnjsurfboat Member Posts: 17
    A honda tech I know personally told me that the stock Michelins he sees are exibiting excessive premature sidewall dry rot and cracking, including my own. Im pretty satified with my 45k lifespan and am ready to replace, but without my concern for the newly noticed cracking,my treadwear would allow 60K+. Heads up.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I had Michelins on a car that had nearly 90K on them and 5-6 years of age and they started showing a fine cracking on the outer layer and between the treads which were worn down to 20% left above the wear bars--not worn out. I'd noticed they didn't seem to grip and the rubber itself was hardened.

    A fellow parent in our scout troop works at an area tire and mechanical repair store. They sell Michelin. He looked at them and said it's not dry rot. He said it was just age and the rubber tends to harden and then crack.

    Go to a quality Michelin store to have them looked at. Make it clear you don't plan to replace them immediate and would hope they wear longer safely. And that you'd remember them when it is time to replace the tires.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • wajeeh_rwajeeh_r Member Posts: 6
    not yet tried with other fob key, do you think this can help me out?

    I will try and let u know.

    thank you for your response.
  • damgregdamgreg Member Posts: 3
    I agree, its not normal, but these are not dealer guidlines; it is HONDA CANADA that has this spec. Furthermore, Toyota and Nissan adhere to the same guidline: if it burns 1liter or less of oil every 1500kms, its OK. Unbelievable, but true.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    No, it's not dry-rot, but the tires look bad, and old way before their time. My Michelins were replaced early (42k miles), mainly because of road damage. The MXV4's don't seem to be very durable. Two of them needed replacing because one was damaged (bulge) by a small pot-hole, and a semi-sharp rock punctured the other :confuse: . I replaced all 4 with Bridgestone Turanza LS tires, and at 10k miles they seem to be much better, so far.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    3 sets on 3 accords. 45-48k is what they last.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    My Michelins had plenty of tread left on them at 42k miles, but they looked like they were twenty years old (cracks), one had a plug in it, and soon after another one had a bulge in the sidewall. The same Michelin MXV4 tires were on my 92 Accord, and they were no better. The Turanza's are heavier, so they take away 1-2 mpg, but they have thicker sidewalls, and are more durable IMO.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    Here's the OEM tires for my 03EXV6, Energy MXV4 S8.
    http://www.michelinman.com/tires/luxury-performance-touring/energy-mxv4-s8/#size- - - s-and-specifications

    I replaced the tires after 48K miles last November.
    The tires still had about 5K miles left. There weren't many cracks
    on the sidewalls. Probably I armored all them once a month during
    the summer.

    Here are my new Primacy MXV4s:
    http://www.michelinman.com/tires/luxury-performance-touring/primacy-mxv4/#sizes-- - - and-specifications

    The load index is higher than the OEM tires. Like your Turanza's,
    these tires are heavier and have thicker sidewalls than the OEMs. Will lose about couple MPGs and some acceleration. But man, I have to say these
    tires handle much much better in snow & wet road than the OEM
    tires.
    Got them at BJs for $720 tax included after $50 coupon.
    Life time balance & rotation, and road hazard insurance also
    included.

    Unlike the OEM tires, these MXV4s carry 60K mile treadwear.
  • according2u06according2u06 Member Posts: 95
    Yeah, those guidelines make no sense to me whatsoever!!! I know if my 06 Accord in 2 or 3 years burns anywhere near 1 liter of oil/1500 kms I'll be really pissed(in fact, I'll be pissed if it EVER happens) and will never consider Honda again if it's not resolved by the dealer(especially if I had the extended warranty). I really feel your dealer should've taken care of this problem for you since you bought the factory extended warranty. Anyway, regardless of what your dealer says, hopefully you can find out what the problem is and get it fixed soon.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    My accords were 90,95,and my 02. My tires didn't crack they were just "done". My comfort treads also cost me 1-2 mpg. Honda specs the Michelins for the higher mpg ratings,I think. Good Daytona 500,wasn't it.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    There are some questions to be asked here, before you make a decision:

    How long she's planning to keep the car.

    How much is the EW to cost.

    Those little-driven cars are not necessarily the best in shape.... And age is also an issue....

    Me, personally, if I was planning to keep the car for another 5-7 years, and the EW cost up to $1,000 (with no deductible) I would seriously consider it......
  • bunkie1bunkie1 Member Posts: 18
    My wife's '03 EX 4 cyl has 116,000 miles. The only thing I've done to it besides routine maintenance was change an O2 sensor. Chances are the EW will cost a lot more than anything you'll have to do to it, but there're always exceptions. I'd skip it, but it depends on your aversion to risk.
  • twildtwild Member Posts: 5
    I need to remove my radio and disc player to trace down a short. Do anyone have steps to accomplish this task??? My car is a 2004 Accord
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    It's my understanding that the little white stickers with bar codes and VIN numbers that you find on various panels of an Accord, such as inside the hood, trunk, door frames, etc., are OEM and indicate OEM parts. Thus, if you're looking to buy a used Accord, panels missing those stickers would be replacements and might indicate the car had been in a collision. Anyone know if this is true?

    I'm trying to advise my son on some used cars he's looking at. Anyone know if this applies to Acuras also?

    Thanks.
  • pastatiepastatie Member Posts: 26
    As a retired trooper we were instructed these VIN markings are an excellent way to identify stolen parts. They well may also be used for the OEM replacement.
  • ar39ar39 Member Posts: 61
    What if the parts are original but, the stickers had been peeled-off or fallen-off due to contamination? I would inspect the vulnerable parts for paint shade mismatch, mis-alignment, gaps between adjoining parts & condition. If you trust a mechanic, use his services to make a decision.

    Good luck!
  • according2u06according2u06 Member Posts: 95
    Haha. I finally figured out what you are talking about(took me a while)..... My car does exactly the same thing, ie the tachometer does jump to around 1200 and dip under 1000 in rpm after selecting 'R' from another gear. I paid attention to this in different weather conditions, and it seems to do it not matter how cold or hot it is. I thought you were describing the more obvious rpm changes that take place when the engine warms up in the cold weather. That is also true. But has nothing to do with what you are describing. This is indeed weird if you ask me.

    OK, so I think it's a normal trait of the Accord 4cy transmission and there should be no problem with our cars(either that or we both got a lemon :P). Any other owner bother to weigh in? thegraduate, tankbeans, austinman or anyone with 7Gen 4cy? :)
  • blacklx1blacklx1 Member Posts: 10
    Hi everyone, I have a 2005 LX coupe with an auto tranny and almost 65K miles. I'm starting to notice a wobble or shake while accelerating but only between 60 and 70 mph. I had my tires rotated and balanced, but it's still doing it. I also had my brakes and rotors done at 60K. Anyone else experience this? Any advice?
  • according2u06according2u06 Member Posts: 95
    Does your car do this under any particular condiitions? Windy days, uneven, bumpy roads etc. Or does it do it on smooth roads/ in good weather also? I know I experience my car shaking in very windy condition, and it wobbles, or slightly shakes when going uphill on an uneven road(also around 60-70 mph). I don't notice this when conditions are good though. My car is 06 LX sedan 4cyl. :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    My car does exactly the same thing, ie the tachometer does jump to around 1200 and dip under 1000 in rpm after selecting 'R' from another gear.

    What does the tachometer do when you select "D"?
  • according2u06according2u06 Member Posts: 95
    Great idea to have it checked by dealer! I doubt it has anything to do with transmission though unless you have a V6. Also, doing a 4-wheel alignment or changing your tires (if they are worn) could help.
  • blacklx1blacklx1 Member Posts: 10
    Actually I think it's in any weather. I live in Houston, so we don't have too many windy days (just unpredictable rain) and I noticed it on smooth roads. I even noticed it on different highways that were flat and didn't have any potholes. From what I've read online, it could be my balance shaft, bent rim (unlikely), or transmission. I'm due for an oil change soon, so I guess I'll have the dealer check it out since I have the extended warranty.
  • according2u06according2u06 Member Posts: 95
    hmm I'm not sure. Usually after I select 'D' from 'P' or another gear I just step on the gas and go so have no idea what the rpm is. I'll have to check on this. Is it supposed to exhibit something similar as when changing to 'R'?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Just thinking that the higher rpm when selecting "R" is because the reverse gear is larger than first "D" gear, so it would require more rpm/torque to turn from a stop, or at low speeds.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    I haven't noticed it except when very cold, but I have to go somewhere shortly. I will pay attention to see if it does anything.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    just got back from my errands and yes mine does jump a little bit, up around 1300-1500 when shifting p to d, and 1100-1200 when shifting p to r, however it immediately goes down to around 900. i wouldn't worry about it unless it really spikes. in the end you know your car and your judgment is best. good luck.
  • keegankkeegank Member Posts: 1
    My Honda Accord 2003 has been having this problem for almost 3 years now. Unfortunately it's been getting worse lately. The issue is that sometimes the car just won't start. The battery is new. The starter works. Everything else works. There is no disappearing of the dash lights when the key is being turned to start position. Most of the time the problem would disappear in about 5 to 10 minutes. Very annoying.
  • according2u06according2u06 Member Posts: 95
    Ha, thanks. That's what I thought(that my car isn't a lemon :P)! Thanks for confirming though. Now I can relax.

    elroy5, I'll check mine and report back, I think it'll behave much the same way as tankbeans posted above when shifting from P to D though (it's almost the same from P to R).
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    keegank, Next time the engine will not start, try this. Remove the gas cap, then listen at the opening while someone turns the key to on (don't try to start). The fuel pump should run for a couple of seconds. If not, I suspect the fuel pump main relay. There was a recall on the relays on 05 Accords, but I've heard of this problem on 03 Accords as well. If your Accord is a V6 model, it could also be the fuel pressure regulator. Good luck
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    There is a TSB for hard or not starting.
    I left the TSB# in my office.
    Will post it when I get it.
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    pastatie, ar39,

    So sorry for delay in responding to your posts. I appreciate the feedback. Sounds like the VINs on the body panels are indeed OEM, indicating original parts. That's good advice to have it doublechecked anyway.

    In the meantime, I thought to check my hood. It's a replacement. I slid into the back of a Lincoln Town Car at 5 mph. The Lincoln was like hitting a granite boulder -- you couldn't tell it had been hit -- but my hood buckled. There's no VIN sticker on it, but there is a sticker that looks like this: R (Honda logo) DOT
    Maybe R stands for replacement? DOT -- Dept. of Transportation?
    The rest of the car has the normal OEM white VIN stickers everywhere.

    according2u06,

    I've never noticed anything unusual about the RPMs when shifting to R or D, but I haven't paid much attention. I'll watch tomorrow and see if anything shows up.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    Hey everyone,

    my wife hit the curb on saturday with her front, right wheel. The Bridgestone factory tire was pretty much dead within seconds and we had to do a tire change right there. The car is only at 4500 miles and was purchased on 9/30/2007. I was wondering a few things... 1) any chance this might be covered by a warranty? we have a firestone store here that I go to regularly for my lifetme alignment on my 2004 accord, maybe I can get the tire checked out there? 2) If no warranty would apply, what are odds this could be repaired? 3) if I must replace the tire, can I get just one tire this early in my tires'/car's life or do I have to do in pairs? Here are the tire specifics:
    Bridgestone Turanza EL41 P205/60R16 91V M+S EL41JZ

    and the car's a 2007 Honda accord ex coupe with Navi
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I think as long as you get the same exact tire, you can go with just one replacement tire.

    I had a similar situation a few years back. I had a blown tire and scratched wheel on my driver side rear. I ended up buying one new factory wheel, and two new tires for the rear. I kept the scratched wheel with the (slightly used) tire from the passenger side rear on it as a (full size) spare. It's nice to know you have a full size spare, to go along with the temporary. It cost me a few $$$, but I ended up better off than I was before.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    Thanks for the response elroy5.

    Anyone have any thoughts on the possibilities of warranty replacement and/or repair of this tire?

    If I have to replace, I'll just replace 1 tire like Elroy5 suggested, and maybe just rotate this new front/right tire and my older front left/tire to the back.. and that would help them get a little more even before I bring them to the front in my next tire rotation (in... 5k miles? how often should I be getting them done on my car?)
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Anyone have any thoughts on the possibilities of warranty replacement and/or repair of this tire?

    I suggest that you read the fine print on the tire warranty that came with your owner's manual. I doubt if it is covered since it can be chalked up to driver error, however, it never hurts to ask.

    I ran over a sharp object that ended up getting to the outside of the tire, just off the tread when my old Accord was almost new. I had to replace the whole thing. Like Elroy, it didn't hurt anything to replace just one tire when it was so new.
  • ar39ar39 Member Posts: 61
    To my understanding, the tire damage was not a from defective tire. Hence, you will not be covered by the warranty. Only manufacturing defects are covered under warranty. Your case qualifies under wear & tear.

    To even out the wear on all tirew, I suggest you use the new tire on the Right Front side for a few thousand mile before you rotate it. RF tires receive the most abuse with LH drives.
  • according2u06according2u06 Member Posts: 95
    Ok, I think you're right on this one. When shifting from P to D, there is similar pattern of rpm changes as when shifting from P to R, except the 'spike' in rpm wasn't as noticeable(~1000 rpm) as when shifting to R. :)
  • according2u06according2u06 Member Posts: 95
    according2u06,

    I've never noticed anything unusual about the RPMs when shifting to R or D, but I haven't paid much attention. I'll watch tomorrow and see if anything shows up.


    When you test it, make sure you do it right after you start the car. I don't notice anything unusual either when I test it after I drove the car for a while. It seems to be more obvious when engine is cold/not warmed up. Althouth I've come to realize it doen't have much to do with the weather. :D
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