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2008 Honda Accord Coupe and Sedan
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Let's say you bought it for $100. You paid for it before selling it so your investment is $100. The $3 you get back after you sell it is a return of money you've already spent. If I have to spend it, I don't consider it profit.
Now if they gave me an extra $3 beyond the $100 I spent, I'd consider it profit.
It all semantics anyways because dealers typically finance their inventory and holdback goes towards paying that. If a car sells quickly, they net more. If a car sits for months, they net less.
Let's say you bought it for $100. You paid for it before selling it so your investment is $100. The $3 you get back after you sell it is a return of money you've already spent. If I have to spend it, I don't consider it profit.
Now if they gave me an extra $3 beyond the $100 I spent, I'd consider it profit.
It all semantics anyways because dealers typically finance their inventory and holdback goes towards paying that. If a car sells quickly, they net more. If a car sits for months, they net less.
You've got to be kidding. Of course it's profit. The dealer spends $100 for the car. Sells it at invoice for $100 to the customer and claims no profit. Later gets $3 holdback from Honda. The $3 is profit. The dealer got a total of $103 from Honda and the customer after spending $100 to initially buy the car.
I won't call anything cutting corners. Automakers have to engineer vehicles around the fact that cars have to be competitive on cost too. You can't put everything in plus add new features and expect them to not add to the cost. My 1998 Accord EX-L cost $23.1K. In terms of features, 2008 Accord LX-P puts it to shame for a grand less (it does lack moon roof and leather, but even then, considering extra features and inflation over ten years, the new Accord is offering a lot more).
http://www.iihs.org/ratings/rating.aspx?id=866
Irrespective of which test is more demanding, Honda needs to consider this further.
Does anyone know which trim level of the 08 sedan has speed sensitive auto volume adjustment?
Thanks.
TTB
Hasn't anyone else noticed that yet?
it's visible and huge gap enough to see...
I don't think it's intentional part of design the designers made
The gap makes the car look much less solidly built
and kinda vulnerable to strong winds etc.
see here at autoshow there wasnt such a noticeable gap on the concept car,
rather the concept car looked better resembled than ones in market.
it even shown in the spy pic here
Should I buy 08 model now or wait till next year when they might fix the problem?
I've driven hundreds of thousands of miles through lousy weather conditions and never considered visibility of taillights to be worth discussing.
LED lamps are probably going to become more common due to their lower power consumption, but they are more of a fad today. I presume that Honda dropped LED taillights for the 2008 Accord so that they can tweak them in a few years, just as they'll tweak a grille design or change exterior color choices. Gotta keep potential customers interested.
In my opinion, the 2008 Accord's taillamps are as bright and visible as necessary.
But I will not overspend to get an 08 accord, I will go to Acura, since they are offering better deals.
Or perhaps put the whole design of the coupe into the sedan. That wouldn't be to outrageous, I don't think it would change the market for the accord. I don't think it would hurt anything.
Also, Think they could have kept the same type of design for the Tach, like on the previous design. Just re-arrange, change colors, just redo it, but keep the whole glowing dash design. It looks very retro, and classy,You put the key in, and it comes alive! The new 08 Tach, looks more traditional, and perhaps gone back in time a bit. I have an 06, and it looks awesome with the tach, and actually, saw one before I owned one, and I was like wow! Thats awesome.
My concerns while driving under those (foggy/rain) conditions is around auto on/off and DRL systems now more prevalent in cars. With DRLs, the tail lamps are off. With auto on/off lights, if the ambient light is bright enough, tail lamps are off as well despite poor visibility. And folks driving these cars seem to have forgotten that there is a knob to turn on the lights when conditions require it. But, it seems, they are no smarter than the car's sensors (in some cases, worse).
LEDs? I see them more as a cosmetic thingy than anything. My TL has LEDs. And until a few months before getting it, I wasn't aware that TL did. Then there are cars like BMW 3-series etc, where it is hard to tell if it has LEDs or traditional bulbs. I don't think ES350 uses LEDs either. Things seem to work just fine.
As blane suggested, we can bet on LEDs becoming a norm in the near future, but more a result of lower power consumption. Its relationship to safety is a bit overrated. Besides, if you notice, most cars with LED tail lamps still have traditional bulbs for turn indicators.
I believe that percentage of cars leased (versus purchased) goes up with cars priced above $30K or so than under.
Several years ago I purchased a new Accord EXV6 at around invoice on a 5 year loan with $0 down (everything financed and the first payment not due until the following month) and after less than 24 months, the payoff was less than the trade-in value. I was able to to trade for a new car and even had a few dollars equity to apply to the next vehicle.
If I had leased using Honda's 24 month lease program for the same miles with no cap reduction at that time, I would have paid hundreds in lease fees and had higher payments.
Lease payments are not always cheaper in all circumstances.
As I said, IMHO.
...dealers typically finance their inventory and holdback goes towards paying that.
Let's say you spent that $3 financing the car until it was sold? Is it still profit? IMHO, I think not when it comes down to the net.
That's why I noted what is in italics above - holdback is designed to pay the finance arm of the manufacturer. Few dealers pay cash. If a car sells quickly they make out and they lose if it sits on the lot.
24 months: $372.36
36 months: $284.71
48 months: $274.01
60 months: $298.70
Financing for 48 months @ 6.0% would push the monthly payment to $441.40 with $3K down. Leasing makes for a lower payment/month on the same car by $170/month. In fact, for $434/month, the person could lease EXLV6/NAV. So, he/she may choose to save a few bucks/month or choose the highest trim for about the same monthly cost as owning the base trim.
I would say that cars like Accord would be borderline between leasing and owning. As we approach $40K and higher, leasing makes many cars more affordable. It is the way BMW makes a living (note their aggressiveness with leasing).
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
$3K drops payments pretty drastically on a lease of 24-36 months, but putting so much down is not recommended since you will lose that money if the vehicle is stolen or totaled. Gap insurance does not apply to your lease cap reduction.
You are still spending that money and simply shifting it from the payments to the cap reduction.
Try zero down on a 24 month lease and see what kind of payments you get.
The loan was cheaper because I made 24 lower payments on the 60 month loan (despite having financed the sales tax) than if I had leased for 24 months and was not upside down at the end. On top of that I didn't spend the extra hundreds of dollars in lease inception and lease return junk fees.
Here's how:
I bought a 2003 Accord EXV6 in Oct '02 for $24.5k +TTL & kept the car for 3.5 years.
Put down $8k & had a $350/mo payment on a 60 month loan.
Drove it 59k miles & traded the car for a new '06 Odyssey.
The dealer gave us $14.5k for the Accord & we bought the new one $500 under invoice.
Thus, we got our $8k back & essentially "leased" the car for $350/mo with 17k mi/yr. I doubt a lease deal can me made with the high miles. Also, we had the option to keep it with equity.
Now, this only works on cars that have high residual values. Honda being #1.
Lastly, my poor father-in-law is stuck in a '07 Pilot lease at 12k mi/year. The car is parked in the driveway because he is afraid overunning the miles.
However, you just cannot make blanket statements saying, if you like to trade your car every few years, leasing is automatically better or cheaper.
Finance/48 mos: $512
Lease/48 mos: $348
Both went up by $70. That said, I'm not suggesting that leasing is better than buying or vice versa (which is my preference), only that leasing makes for a lower monthly payment and increases "affordability" to many (not to be confused with better financial decision as there are way too many variables to figure that out).
Since I am doing this in my head, I will ignore the interest earned on the 7K as it accumulates! Won't be much though.
So in this case, the big question is what the car will be worth after 4 years/48K. I think this was on an LX, but I have to guess it will be worth more than that. Residual is probably about 48%, MSRP ~21.5K, so I assume residual is in the 10K range.
So, in this case, even if you know you are trading in 4 years, it is better to buy than lease. Although with leasing you do get lower payments, and cost certainty.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Perhaps the greatest benefit of leasing a car is the lower out-of-pocket costs when acquiring and maintaining the car. Leases require little or no down payment and there are no up-front sales-tax payments. Additionally, monthly payments are usually lower, and you get the pleasure of owning a new car every few years.
BTW, leasing is how most luxury brands find customers who would normally "buy" mainstream cars but want to drive something more exclusive for any number of reasons. Most of these folks believe that instead of spending $450/month on a $30K car, they might as well drive a $50K car. Savings give way to bragging rights.
Will be replacing my C230 MB Kompressor and am in love with the Accord Coupe.
Can't find one to test drive yet.
However, if I get the 190 HP Coupe how will highway acceleration compare to my MB.
Or, is there no comparison and should I probably go with the V6?
It could make a big difference if you total a leased car with a thousand or more down. That would be lost money in any insurance settlement.
The C230 Kompressor (supercharger?) has been tested 0-60 in 7.2 seconds.
The 190 HP I4 MTX 2008 Accord Coupe has been tested 0-60 in 7.9 seconds.
The 190 HP I4 ATX 2008 Accord Coupe has been tested 0-60 in 9.1 seconds.
The 268 HP V6 MTX 2008 Accord Coupe has been tested 0-60 in 6.2 seconds.