Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

bmoyers · September 2003

Follow-up on earlier message #2117 of 2167:

Ford finally agreed to help with the replacement engine. Instead of $4500 for a FQR reman. long block installed, my cost will be $1800. And my engine warrenty will be extended to 6yr. and/or 100K from date of initial purchase (in my case, Dec. 1999) So I'm reasonably happy with that, since the car had 52K miles and was out of warranty when the engine self-destructed. Now we'll see how it all works out when I get the car back after the engine R&R. No telling what kinds of nuisance problems will crop up as a result of the engine swap. Perhaps I'll have it back in another week or so.

wijoco · September 2003

That's not a bad deal, really. Yes, $1,800 is a lot of money that you shouldn' have to spend on a vehicle that new, but if you look at it purely mathematically, you're actually getting good value for that new motor. Motor swaps are a little easier now than they were 10 years ago, juts becaus ethere are far less vacuum operated devices that have to be reassembled. It's easier to plug together wiring harnesses than old vacuum lines. So, I would have confidence that you won't have problems. Think positive!

swschrad · September 2003

I have had engines lifted on both my 90 ranger and 00 exploder... the exploder right away because of a bad oil sensor from the get-go... and no negatives in either case. if the techs give a rip, on a modern car, it's not the end of the world.

if they don't, on anything, there will be Hell to pay, and probably often.

but I'm one of those damn looney cranks who enters a dealership for the first time through the parts or service doors to see what's out there in the future if I do buy something there....

wijoco · September 2003

The oil sender trashed the engine? Or they just thought the oil pressure was gone and pulled it?

nvbanker · October 2003

Sounds like Ford stepped up to me, and that's what I expect, and have received from them in the past. YOu have to ask, sometimes more than once, but they do seem to care, in my experience. YMMV.

winweasl · October 2003

Any brake experts here? My brother had me test my brakes by turning car on, and, while in park, press the brake (which softly went almost to the floor), let the peddle come up with my foot still on it, and, press again. There was no change, no resistance. He feels that the brakes are not getting fluid for some reason and that there should have been some resistance. He is not a mechanic, but, is worried about the master cylinder as the cause of my skidding down my driveway. Does this make sense? Also, Tidester, I emailed you about measuring the grade, but, haven't heard from you.

jrc346 · October 2003

I defiantly do not think that you have a brake issue. I can go out to any one of my cars, and while not moving push each of their brake pedals almost all the way to the floor. However, when actually moving and stopping, you don't come anywhere near pressing that far down on the pedal (that is if things are functioning correctly). If your Explorer is skidding to stops, as in your tires screach bloody murder and/or you feel vibrations (rapid) in your brake pedal while stopping on dry pavement, then you have an ABS problem. From the sound of things, I would probably rule the brakes out as being the problem, but also see what others think here:-)

tidester · October 2003

I replied to your note with an explanation and drawing - drop me a note and let me know whether you found it.

tidester, host

rbn1015 · October 2003

I purchased a 2003 Ford Explorer XLT Aug 25, 2003. A week and a half after I purchased this car it acted like it didn't want to stay cranked when I would start it especially in the mornings or after it would sit for awhile. It would act like it didn't have any gas in it. My local dealer or Ford Engineers could not figure out or fix the problem. They tried six different things. I drove this car for ONLY the week and 1/2 and made one payment on it. It was at the dealer ship the rest of the time.
As of today Ford is buying that Explorer back and I am getting another one hopefully this one will be a good one!

winweasl · October 2003

Robin,
I am glad you have a happy ending to your lemon. The Ford Engineer on mine claims that the skidding down hills when in reverse is merely gravity! He says it is my driveway, but, I tried it on another hill and down it went. Let's see what he says now! I bought my car just before you bought yours. Did you have to get a lawyer? Good luck with the new car.

swschrad · October 2003

except maybe my confidence for a few days. starting the truck up, sometimes it indicated oil pressure, sometimes it didn't for a minute or so. there was no noise like the top end turning into iron filings, so I brought the truck into my dealer at the first opportunity, and they told me right off there was a bad run of sensors. no hassles, just got me a loaner and got the truck back that night with problem solved.

the location of the thing, right above the oil pan, made it about impossible to change without raising the block. that engineer was following in the wonderful tradition of the 302 V8, I guess... when it came out for the Boss Mustang, you had to lift the engine to replace #3 plug, and it helped for #5 as well I was told at the time. eventually ford advised dealers to punch a hole in the fender liner and use a part (something-or-other) plate to cover it after changing the plugs.

that engine ran hot, and needed a lot of plugs, as well back in the early 70s. it's been nicely tamed for a long time, but there is a tale that a few of them develop piston slap after a while. no signs of any issues in mine.

bcmtb · October 2003

I had purchased an 02 Eddie Bauer Explorer that I absolutely loved . The day after I bought it the service engine soon light came on. In the 4 months that I owned the vehicle,I had problems withe the air bag sensor, it had to have a new steering column , 4 new brakes and rotors, idle control valve,the rear end came out of it, and problems with the transmission.I ( happily) no longer own this vehicle.

wijoco · October 2003

I had a 79 and still have a 76 F100, both with 302s. I don't think any Ford vehicle from the 70's cooled very well in hot weather and the 302 wasn't much different. Both of my 302s had problems: the 76 has some piston slap, but that may be from coolant-in-the-oil-from-a-blown-head-gasket-from-overheating-from- -a- blown-brand-new-radiator. Course it was my bad luck to pay $200 for a new top-of-the-line Modine radiator and get the one with bad trans cooler solder joints. Anyway, those motors were made long ago in galaxy far away and I know the modern 302 has undergone a ton of changes and is a much better engine. Plus it's all cast iron so you don't have to worry about stupid Ford head gaskets like you do with their aluminum head/iron block motors.

swschrad · October 2003

the 302/5.0-L was about as dressed up as a nice, conservative, chunk-o-iron is going to get, and I prefer dependable to glitzy and novel when it has to get me BACK from the way outback.

took ford a while to get into production with the V10-turned-V8, but there isn't a major rumble about engine issues with that engine that I have seen yet. if I hadn't gotten a 2000 or 2001, I would have gotten the oil seal fixed and some other work done on my ranger, and waited out the experiences of the pioneers a few years...

sorry you had the bad radiator of the month, modine has been good to me several times for replacements. one bad part can really raise your awareness of how intertwined mechanical systems are

jrc346 · October 2003

Haha, I currently own a partially restored 1979 F-150 2WD with the 302. I love the motors dependability, but I have had problems with it getting really hot to. Funny thing, I just thought it was something wrong with my truck. Luckily though, at 127,000 miles I haven't had a head gasket go. I have changed coolant and a new thermostat which helps, but it still runs warmer than I would like. Oh well, I guess I know now to stop hunting for problems. Thanks!

Sorry to be off topic

My wife's 2000 Explorer has the 4.0L SOHC V6 which seems to be ok, but we have had two issues with it in 50K. The first being the timming chain tensioner and the second being a stuck thermostat. My sister in law had a 2001 Explorer 5.0L that had no problems at 46K. Sometimes, it's hard to argue with simplicity :-/

jrc346 · October 2003

It seems that I may have jinxed myself by that last message. This past Sunday my wife was driving and low and behold the check engine light came on. Tonight I took her car into AutoZone to have the codes read and they told me that Bank 1 and 2 were running rich and that The solution was to purchase 2 new oxygen sensors (I declined). The car is at 51K and I honestly don't think that oxygen sensors go at the same time at such a low mileage. I also noticed while driving it tonight that I heard a muted whistle that went up in frequency as the engine reved higher. I am now thinking that the intake gasket might be the problem. The thing is, it runs great. It is still averaging 20+ MPG, idles like brand new, and has no hesitation. Do any of you know if I am noticing the early signs of the intake gasket issue? Or should I just dish out $120 big ones for new O2 sensors? I used the search here on edmunds and found many people that had issues with stalling, hesitation, and the like associated with this issue and only one that has the hissing/whistle from the intake. Any ideas appreciated! Goodnight :-)

BTW- It is a 2000 4.0L SOHC

dtownfb · October 2003

I have a 96 Explorer V8 and my oxygen sensor went out around 45k miles. No big deal. I actually drove for about 8 months with the check engine light on. I think it cost $140-$150 to have it replaced. Oxygen sensor go all the time. And it doesn't matter what vehicle it is. Get it fixed the next time you go in for service.

jrc346 · October 2003

Getting new 02 sensors wouldn't bother me, but I just don't think they are the cause of my check engine light. The reason being because the computer says that they are both bad. Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't seem a tad odd that two 02 sensors would go bad at the same time? I think something smells fishy, so I am trying to find as many causes of this as possible related to this engine and emilinate them one by one.

Thank you for your thoughts! That may very well be it. I will let you know how things turn out.

swschrad · October 2003

one sensor could have gone "lazy" earlier, then the second one fails hard on the same side. blame contamination, road spray, communists, whatever. the mechanic sees the codes, checks the sensors, neither is within specs, and he replaces them both. not an issue.

my 90 ranger had a lazy 02 sensor for maybe a year or two, but it never set a code... one evil 27-below night on an open lot far from work, past midnite, I couldn't get the freakin' car to run. it would start great, warmed up enough so the temp needle JUST moved... and the computer came out of programmed mode into real-time... the sensor was way off base, and the engine chug-chug-chugged to a stop. several times I did this and got madder and madder. finally, I got past warmup, and off I went. next morning, they found the problem and fixed it.

I think I have a lazy sensor on one side of my current exploder, when I did a test run with a kitted OBD-II unit, one 02 sensor didn't show any tracking changes. have to recheck in the next week or two and correct if it's still doing that. as you can maybe guess, I'd rather spend the money ahead of being stuck someplace late, cold, and alone.

wijoco · October 2003

I think you made the right call. A few questions: how many O2 sensors does your Explorer have, and where are they located? What were the actual numerical codes they retrieved? My best advice is to get the numerical codes, then go to OBDII website and get Ford's official verbal interpretation, not the Autozone guy's. Also try posting on flatereatetech. See, there are tow main ways an O2 reports a problem: "out-of-range" and "lazy". Out-of-range means the PCM has adjusted fuel/air as far as it can in one direction or the other without stalling the vehicle, but the O2 still reports the exhaust as too rich or lean. More often than not, this error is the fault of a controlling device, not the O2. A "lazy" code means the O2 sensor is reporting changes in fuel/air ratio too slowly, usually due to failing elements on the tip of the sensor. This generally is a cooked O2 sensor. JR, I would do a close visual inspection of the engine compartment with the truck running and look for obvoius stuff like leaks in the air duct assembly, dirty MAF, dirty air cleaner, stuff like that and just go from there. Good luck, keep us up!

wijoco · October 2003

Also...check out this link for some rockin info on catalytic converter operation. It sheds some light on the operation of the O2 sensors.
http://216.239.41.104/search?q=cache:gFJKs_qcw30J:www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf89936.htm+ford+oxygen+sensor+rich+bank&hl=en&ie=UTF-8

swschrad · October 2003

there are pre-cat and post-cat 02 sensors for each engine bank (total of 4). not sure on the 6-bangers; I'm not at home or I'd look it up.

jrc346 · October 2003

Swschrad-
Thanks for the tips. You could very possibly be right. I will have to see if cleaning the MAF sensor works first. Again thank you for your incite :-)

Wijoco-
Awesome website! I was completely entertained by it for a good solid 20 mins. I am out of town right now, but will be back tomorrow to start work on the wife's truck. On the day that I went to Autozone the staff there were not having a good day. The lady that checked my codes didn't give me the specific numbers. I wish she had, but she was more excited about her cigarette. Not exactly stellar service, but I have someone else that I know with a reader that I will contact tomorrow. I do have a chiltons manual for the Explorer. Are the codes in there accurate? Will the reader indicate if my O2 sensors are "lazy" or if they are "out of range," or is that something that you have to quess? I did change the air cleaner recently that was moderately dirty. I am currently getting great gas mileage 20+ MPG average and it runs really smooth. I will get back to everyone here that is interested as soon as I find out whether or not these things worked. If not, I guess I am going to be purchasing two new oxygen sensors :-) goodnight all!

nvbanker · October 2003

I'm not comfortable at large with parts stores and their staff. Since my kid works at such a store, and can't change a tire, him reading the codes wouldn't elicit trust in me. At least, try another shop for a second opinion before you go replacing anything.

wijoco · October 2003

"Are the codes in there accurate? Will the reader indicate if my O2 sensors are "lazy" or if they are "out of range," or is that something that you have to quess?"

There are around ten different O2-related Ford codes. You'll get a numerical code from the scanner, then take that and look in the emissions section of your book or Google it and find the verbage. It was probably P0172 and P0175

jrc346 · October 2003

Thanks to all that helped me out with this one. I drove to 3 places in my local area to see if there was a place that could read my codes properly and give me the information I needed.

This is what I found out:

The updraft bank 1 and 2 O2 sensors gave a PO175 as being stored indicating a rich condition. The guy that helped me at a local garage had this awesome computer reader with color display and live graphs to show you what the engine was doing at that very instant. It showed that the O2 sensors were working very well and that the code was set due to there being some other issue (so the code was set because the O2 sensors were out of range). So the guy cleared the check engine light and looked at the engine trying to find any cracked hoses or tubing going into the intake. One other suggestion was to clean the MAF sensor as indicated on this message board. So I went to an auto parts store to find the little star key with the peg in the middle to get the MAF sensor screws out. I took it off (looked clean) and washed it with some electrical parts cleaner. Everything seems to be fine for now. I have driven it probably a total of 60+ miles since the code has been cleared and it has not come back on. Ah, the marvels of modern science and computer technology!
Thanks again for eveyones help. It is great to give out advice and help others in times of car troubles. However, it is twice a great when people help you out when you have an issue:-)
Have a great weekend!
JRC

rbakker1 · October 2003

Hi fellow Explorer enthousiasts,
I need to look at the back window wiper motor of my 1999 Explorer Limited. I can't seem to get movement in the plastic lining that covers the entire 5th door. I removed the top screw (under plastic cover) and removed the flexible door handle on the inside (two screws). And then... there is not a millimeter movement. Please can anyone help me with this one. I have been trying for two day's and I'm about to burn the lining of...
thanks,
Roland
Hellevoetsluis
The Netherlands

lwm2 · October 2003

I own 02 Eddie Bauer. From the start a host of seemingly minor problems cropped up, ie.: "kerchunk" shifting into 3rd @ 25mph; the famed "egg-semll"; RPM initially set too low and stalling; and now a faulty ABS sensor.
The "kerchunk" like running over loose manhole cover. Dealer could not "duplicate customer concern" at least 2 or three times so nothing was done. This has been "fixed" 2 yrs later, when testdriven by service manager - who noticed a chattering sound when car going into higher gears. (is this the same problem?) How does this affect car in long run? Thirdly the egg smell was addressed only recently as well - they wrapped the source of the leak?? Finally the ABS indicator light was on. The first time I took it in they said unless it was currently on they could'nt diagnose the problem - go figure. My family and I were driving in Detroit on wet pavement - ABS light was on. As we were rounding a curve (on wet pavement)we almost lost control of the vehicle. - very scary. When I took it in they couldn't diagnose the problem because the light was not on nor were they overly concerned with our safety. For a few weeks the light stayed off as they reset something in ABS system at the same time thy fixed the chattering - downplaying the whole thing. The next time the ABS lightcame on we were headed out of town to the hill country of Pittsburgh - light stayed on the entire trip. The next day I took it in and wouldn't you know the light went out. So I said I'd bring it back the next day. As I was leaving the lot - it came back on!!! I brought it back in the next day knowing the light would come on. I le them know that my confidence in the car is seriously in doubt. They finally diagnosed the problem as having a short in the rear sensor. They found the "code" to fix the problem - they could have found it earlier I found out - it just would have taken time to check all the codes. They made it sound like it could'nt be diagnosed unless the light was on - it's just easier to diagnose when it is on. I am frustrated with the dealer's service department and the salesman who sold us the car and the car itself. We seemed to have a lot things go wrong at only 35k miles. Is this normal? Should I write the owner as I'm not sure he is aware of this. Okay for now. lwm2 10/13/2003

jrc346 · October 2003

I have never done this, but I need to get at that wiper motor to. It seems that my bracket for that thing is really bent causing my wiper motor not to function now and then.
I think you have done right by removing those screws. However the whole back door cover is secured to the door with what I think are called christmas tree clips. They are just straight pegs that have little ridges on them that get caught in the actual clip in the door (does that make sense to you? haha). To get them out I think that you can push the whole door cover up, as in towards the top of the door, and this will leave the clips behind in the door and you will have to pull them out (no biggie). I have another way to but try this first. That is unless this is the hard way to do it and there is a much simpler way to do it that I have not mentioned? Any others here have any ideas? Goodluck!

swschrad · October 2003

that are pretty inexpensive... you slide 'em in the door panel so the Y surrounds the clip, and wiggle it out. to find the clip, run a business card up the side until it stops, there's another clip.

before taking the liner out, pull the rear wiper to "service position", which is lift up on the wiper arm to clear the body clip, and pull it forward so the wiper is outside that clip and hanging in air. drive around the block, and try to run the wiper again. if it works, and stays working, kewl. if it works, but won't restart again once it's back in the clip, lift up a little and to the left at the motor shaft, to bend that mount bracket a little bit. it may save a lot of work.

akangl · October 2003

My brother finally got around to looking at my 97 Explorer V8 and found that the exhaust leak is coming from the EGR tube, its cracked.

I'm starting to wonder now if that's related to the rotten egg smell that happens when the truck is under load. Guess we'll find out when we replace the ERG tube.....thing is $68 at the dealer....OUCH.

Other than that the truck has been great, have put 10k on it since July....just turned over 51k this morning.

artaman · October 2003

Periodically I can't start my 94 Explorer. When I turn the ignition switch the engine sounds like its trying to start but it doesn't. If I leave it for a couple of hours and come back it will start right up. My local mechanic said the computer stated the fuel pump was bad and I had it replaced for $520. Recently the same problem has started to rear its ugly head so I'm not sure it was the problem. I had it towed in to the mechanic last time it didn't start but once it got to the shop it started right up and he could not figure out what the problem was. ANY IDEAS--HELP, HELP!!

stingmang · October 2003

I have read some of the message boards about staring problems,and my explorer doesn't start right away after sitting awhile. It acts as if its out of gas. Now, it starts right away if I turn it off and start it up again. It seems to be getting worse. Could this be a bad air control valve, intake manifold gasket, fuel pump or dirty fuel injectors? I haven't taken it in to a mechanic yet either. I would rather fix it myself if possible. I realize that some of the other messages posted have had some of the same symptoms in cold weather, but I am in Arizona.

jcasper · October 2003

I own a 99 Ford Explorer that has a rattle in the motor. It has the old style push rod 4.0L V6. It is noticeable at an idle, and also on the freeway, at times can be really loud. when on the freeway the noise sounds like a pinging sound (usually caused by to low of octane gas). I have been told by the dealer that this noise is carbon knock and is caused by carbon build up in the combustion chamber. They have no solution to the problem except to decarbon the combustion chamber which is only a temporary fix. I have had another mechanic clean the MAF sensor and that has not helped either. The Dealer has shown me a TSB from ford saying that this motor must be run over 3000 RPM everyday to keep this from happening. Running the motor over that is definetley not a problem for me. I would appreciate any help I can get.

wgrafer · October 2003

My '02 Explorer seems to have recently developed several "cracks" in the fiberglass trim piece just below the rear window. The cracks are vertical, about 1" long, and randomly spaced. And yes, I had the exploded window replaced back in '01, and yes, I had the hood and paint spider cracks repaired back in '02, but this is way different. Since they are new, looks like the whole piece will eventually crack apart. Has anyone else seen this on theirs?? Mine is one of the originals delivered in March '01. Thanks.

nvbanker · October 2003

Yes, my 02 Mountaineer did that, (as did everybody else's in town) and Ford replaced it no argument. You still under warranty?

wgrafer · October 2003

Unfortunately my '02 is 3k past warranty, but I'll try anyway since it's a common flaw. Mine was one that had the spider-cracking paint on the fiberglass hood AND the entire roof repainted last year. (dark Highland Green). Now I see a whole bunch of paint cracks along the rear and side roof edges that they missed. Even though dealer will stand behind his work, this means another 2 weeks out-of-service. This is a real pain in the butt. Seems like it is always something.

fordtrucklover · October 2003

I have coolant dripping from the seam in the transmission that bolts to the rear of the engine, ive never seen this problem, not heater hoses or radiator, Help 91 explorer 4.0

daryll40 · October 2003

I noticed that my 13 month old, 16,000 mile '03 Mountaineer Premier has leather with severe creases on the outside panel of the driver's seat "butt" surface. I can tell that this gets the pressure when you enter and exit the vehicle. Is this a common problem and will Ford fix it under warranty. I know if I "let it go", it will probably not "crack thru" until after the warranty, but I can see that it WILL happen.
My wife and I are little people so it's not excessive weight, either.

akangl · October 2003

Not sure about the warranty aspect, but I'm surprised that the leather would be that weak.

I currently own a 1997 Explorer Limited with 52k on it and the leather all through the truck is in excellent condition, including the driver's side seat. Not too bad considering its an Alaskan truck.

Must be the new *cost cutting* leather that Ford is using these days. Seems things just get cheaper and cheaper while vehicle prices get more and more expensive.

daryll40 · October 2003

and you are right...the leather was indeed thicker than this paperthin stuff now.

crazygrrrl · October 2003

Hi guys. I need your help.

My friend has a 1991 Explorer, V8, auto trans, Eddie Bauer ed. The SUV starts up fine and runs great but if you stop and turn off the engine (for example, to buy gas), you will not be able to turn it on again until about 15-30 minutes later. This problem only happens when the SUV is driven for a while and then turned off. It always starts up fine after it sits for a minimum of 15 minutes.

Does anyone else have this problem or know what the problem is and if there's an easy (cheap) fix for it?

Thanks.

akangl · October 2003

I highly doubt that its a V8, they didn't put a V8 in until I believe 96 or 97. Probably a 4.0L V6, OHV, ok engine for the most part.

Might want to have it checked for stored codes in the computer, good place to start I guess.

opera_house_wk · October 2003

I suspect this is a fuel leak down problem caused by the fuel pressure regulator. These regulators normally bypass a lot of fuel back to the tank so a tiny leak doesn't affect the running of the engine or the fuel pressures. Some of these suffer from uneven wear when the spring isn't centered. This tiny leak causes a bubble to form in the fuel rail of a hot engine. Try this next time. Turn the key on for 3 seconds without starting then off. Repeat this 4 times then start the engine. If this works better, chances are it is the regulator. Part is about $90 and two bolts remove it.

daryll40 · October 2003

said 1991 by mistake. My brother has a 2000 Limited V8 that had this problem. After 3 trips to the dealer, they ended up having to replace the entire fuel system from the fuel tank on up. It's a fairly common problem and has been well documented by now.

akangl · October 2003

Hmmmm, that doesn't sound like fun. I was sooo hoping it was NOT a V8, especially since I have one.

Mine on occation will be a tad hard starting after a fill up or after shuting it off and then restarting it soon after. Its the worst if parked on an incline. I have always just chalked it up to be a bit fussy. Hopefully I don't end up with a no start condition, my truck is pretty reliable thus far and I'd love to keep it that way.

opera_house_wk · October 2003

Had to laugh when I thought of my experience. I bought a 97 Explorer at auction and went to buy an air filter after picking it up. Tried to install the new filter in the parking lot and it wouldn't fit. Brought the old filter in to match this time. The parts counter guy told me I had a V8 engine and gave me that goofy look. I thought maybe I didn't look at this too close before I bought it. Just Ford in their random parts change of the week. Gee, I wish I had that V8.

akangl · October 2003

When I bought my 97 Explorer I was under the impression it was a V6 which was fine by me, however, after the deal was made over the phone (I basically bought it sight unseen) the used car manager told me it was a V8/AWD.

I wasn't thrilled, but now I'm glad, its been excellent and still manages to average 18 mpg.

crazygrrrl · October 2003

Whoops! I said V8, but you're right, it is a V6. I guess I automatically thought it was an 8 since it was an Eddie Bauer special edition. And it IS a 1991 Explorer (12 years old with over 100,000 miles on it).

Thanks for your advice everyone. I will print this page out and give it to my friend on Monday. ^_^

swschrad · October 2003

only place that coolant could be coming from is the engine. to be sure, check the oil and the ATF for bubbles, gobs, white or grey or brown snot on the dipstick, or other indications of water in a lubricant. if it's there, you have a way bad situation, park it until you get the vehicle estimated.

it could be a leak in a cooling hose, and airflow and position of the hose makes the water run over the bell housing. if so, you are lucky, it's a cheap fix.

it could also be a head gasket starting to fail, check that out immediately.

I strongly prefer to think that it's not a crack in the engine block at the rear, possibly from hitting a shellhole or jumping the wrong stump on a nasty trail, which is almost certainly going to take a new engine to fix it. chances of that happening on the daily drive are slim to none, and slim is out of town this week... but for completeness, it must be mentioned.

moral: you want to know more, now, and I'd have it towed, not drive it, to your favorite garage if you can't find out where the coolant is coming from. my bet is on a cooling hose somewhere near the back of the engine, before it goes to the heater, but I'm not betting large without looking myself.

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