Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

wgrafer · February 2004

daryll40- You didn't say if yours was XLT or EB. My '02 XLT leather was crap. Ford replaced the seat (not the back) due to cracking that went down to the cloth backing (and what is cloth doing under leather???). The replacement is obviously a stronger,thicker leather than original. If you are still under warranty, i suggest bringing it in to the dealer to claim abnormal cracking and wear. The frst time I did this the answer came back as "normal wear and tear". Of course within a few months the cracks had gone straight through at which point the dealer admitted that the leather was "shot" and should be replaced. The replacement leather is noticeably 'thicker' and 'stronger' -- too bad nobody ever sat on the passenger seat since that's the same weak leather as the original driver's seat. Good luck.

cblair10 · February 2004

My "Service Engine Soon" light came on today. Checked coolant level and it was okay. Any common causes for this problem? I just had the oil changed 300 miles ago and the service station forgot to reset and the "Change Oil" light has come on since the oil change. Thanks for your help.

cblair10 · February 2004

I forgot to say that the vehicle is a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer, V8 engine.

kubus_gt · February 2004

I just got 2002 Explorer XLT. There is a button right next to the Moonroof controls that is marked ASC, when I push it, it turns red but I did notice anything that it would actually do. Does anyone know what this is for (owner manual has nothing about it).

daryll40 · February 2004

actually a top-o-the-line Mountaineer Premier

swschrad · February 2004

there is very little edge stiffness in the foam on the buckets in my 2000, and sliding out with the stiff leg to hop out of the truck is causing excess wear on the leather. modify the way you get out of the stumpjumper, and the leather will hold up better on that edge.

I have maintained the condition of mine with the 3M Refresh leather protector (citrus scent makes the car continue to smell new, btw) and have not had further deterioration of the left side leather strip on the seat.

if they would vary the bubbles in the foam on casting these seat cushions, so the edges were hard like racing seats and kept you in place in the bucket, I suspect this leather issue would go away overnight. the seat edge will actually fold under the abs side panel of the seat, and that I suspect is the real cause of the issues.

roger341 · February 2004

I have 02 Explorer with V8, about 26,000 miles. Sometimes when accelerating after a stop, there is a momentary hesitation. Seems to do this whether engine is cold or hot, but only occasionally.

Dealer says it has to do it while test driving before he can check it. Problem is, it never happens then!

Anyone know if there is a factory fix for this problem?

jodar96 · February 2004

I am looking to buy a used Explore XLT with V-6 and trailer hitch III (not II)

I have seen good and bad here and still would like to get an Explore. I have had bad (1990 Ranger) and very good ( 1993 Ranger) luck with Ford. Has anyone pulled campers with these 2002-2003's? How is the gas mileage on highway with/without camper? How does it drive with camper behind it?

After looking at two side by side in the showroom, one with 2 row seats and one with 3 rows, I decided two row ones have a lot more space for storage, and with much flatter folded seats, I can take a 2-3 hour naps during our camping trips.

I am surprised at how little legroom there is in the second row. Our 2001 Lexus RX300 has a lot more leg room, and the second row seat slides and back part tilts. Ford's doesn't do either.

My other question is the paint. How durable is it against chipping.

I did look at Honda Pilot. It is well built vehicle, but you can not get those for 15-18K and Pilot can't pull like Explorer either.

Thanks,
Joe

akangl · February 2004

Anyone had a problem with an Explorer thinking the door is open when it isn't? I'm not sure if its a sensor it goes off of or what.

My 04 seems convinced that the pass side front door is open even though its not. If the door is opened and closed in the cold the dome light comes on, door ajar light comes on and stays on until the next time the door is opened and closed after the truck has warmed up. The dome light usually goes off after I put the truck in drive. Its only the pass side front door and only happens when the truck is cold, once its warmed up and the door is opened and closed again its fine. This started after we washed the truck last weekend. Any ideas?

swschrad · February 2004

thick crusty grease may be the fault. whether you can fix it by spraying isopropyl alcohol into the exposed part of the latch, and then some silicone, and then white-grease the exposed striker parts I don't know, as I haven't had the issue. as the old alka-seltzer ad said, "try it, you'll LIKE it..."

but there is a sensor, probably a microswitch, that doesn't click over until the latch is fully seated. the important part is that this is worse in cold weather... that tells me there is a gob of lube someplace that is allowing the actuator for the switch to flex instead of push the switch button in.

you are going to want a good white lithium grease on the contact parts of the latch to both insure consistent lubrication and reliable operation... and to keep water out of the latch assembly from road spray and car washes. but most of the rest of that mechanism doesn't want gobs 'o' grease on it. pumping a grease gun full into that latch until the window smears is not proper maintenance of the assembly.

I haven't had this door latch in my hands. but those I have seen with the door liner off, you have an eccentric of some sort that is pulled by a rod to open and locked by a vertical rod that clicks a spring-loaded bar across the eccentric's path. the latch that surrounds the lock bolt on the door frame is also spring-loaded, and is flipped into a "set" mode as the lock bolt pushes against the latch. someplace in that path is going to be either a hall-effect sensor (overkill IMHO), a pin switch like the dome light switch on a 1960s car, or a microswitch to signal door-shut. if it's a pin switch, you need to clean the gob of dirty thick crusty grease off it, and just lube with silicone. if a microswitch, you don't want any grease anywhere in the travel path of the actuator arm or the switch actuator button the actuator pushes against.

that's essentially what you have to resolve by cleaning and relubing to clear the latch's issues. I make no warranties, but likely shooting a bunch of 99% isopropyl alcohol or mineral spirits into the latch assembly in several stages, hitting it with silicone, then edge-greasing the latch with lithium grease should accomplish the task without taking the door inner panel off.

anybody with greater insight, correct whatever fumbles I wrote.

nand12 · February 2004

Hello everyone I have a brand new 2004 ford explorer xlt 4.0 L with 510 miles on it. Yesterday, I had the hood open and the engine running because I needed to fill washer fluid. In any case I noticed that the engine was rattling almost like a diesel engine. Upon further research I noticed that there was a recall for the timing chain and tensioner assembly for the 4.0 L SOHC's in previous years. The symptoms that indicate a timing chain problem in my explorer are not present (i.e. I cant hear a chain dragging on the ground between 2500-3500 rpms). Someone on another board mentioned that he had the same noise with his 04' explorer and another member posted that it could be the IAC valve rattling at idle since thats the only time i can hear it (I had a friend rev the engine in neutral and the rattle went away but returned when the engine rpms reduced). Can a few of you 04 explorer owners observe the noise that your engine makes at idle with the hood open and can you tell me if its normal or if its the IAC valve rattling?

nvbanker · February 2004

IME, my wife's V-6 Mountaineer does ok pulling a light trailer, the power is not bad. It's a bit light on the rear suspension for rocking, but some additional shock support would solve that. I rarely use it for towing though, usually use my other truck. But, if you're going to do much towing at all, I'd get a V-8. Mileage is nearly as good, power is exceptional.

blnewt · February 2004

Just curious since I've yet to get under our new 2004 XLS. What items are owner serviceable? I'm talking about any suspension parts w/ grease fittings and any other item that the Do-it yourselfer can maintain. I know more & more parts are factory sealed but curious as to what I can do? Thanks for any info

)

akangl · February 2004

In a word, not much. We had my 04 XLS up on a lift right after we got it, no greasable suspension parts, tranny is sealed, front and rear end look like they are fairly easy to service, possibly the tcase. I'm not a mechanic, but have learned a lot over the past year of having older vehicles. I'm sooooo glad to have a new car under warranty now. We did switch the engine to synthetic a couple hundred miles ago.

blnewt · February 2004

I figured it'd be minimal at best, thanks for the info. Guess I can leave my grease gun in the back of the shed where it's been untouched since I had my Jeep CJ, LOL!

wijoco · February 2004

Mechanics I've talked to have all said the 4.0 is a noisey engine. And very noisey for the first hundred miles. Give it 2,000 miles or so and see if it quiets down a bit. Your late model 4.0 was built with all the updated parts, so yo don't have the same chain tensioner problems as owners of late 90s vehicles.

spinachetr · February 2004

Got a 02 Explorer with almost 50k. Had it to dealer 4 times for back-end whine / howl. Replaced ring and pinon and replaced the 45 mph whine with a 65mph one. It's going back again cause it hasn't been 12k since they fixed it the last time. Where is this service fix for the rear end problem I've heard about since Sept? Next time I'll get a nice American built foreign SUV. To top it off...I was stupid enough to plunk down $1500 for an extended warranty through warranty gold about a year before they went belly up.

cmartin411 · February 2004

It's Buyer Beware when it comes to these 02-03 Explorers. The differential whine is becoming more prevalent.

akangl · February 2004

So far so good on my 04, just turned 5500 miles, have had it almost 2 months. It has a vibration at 65-70 mph, but it comes and goes, either that or I've learned to tune it out.

nand12 · February 2004

Can you tell me what your 4.0 L sounds like with the hood open at idle? I get a light rattling noise from the black cover and even though im positive that its normal, i just want to be on the safe side.

chuck1 · February 2004

Purchased for my wife a NEW 2002 Explorer with the 4.0. The car now has 19K and has not experienced any motor or transmission problems. The rear hatch (underneath the glass is a fiberglass panel) it cracked, very common problem-dealer repaired under warranty no questions asked! What a 2nd rate paint job though, dirt in the paint, etc.
The power window motor for the rear drivers side passenger window won't work. Again, very common problem-MOTOR IS ON NATIONAL BACK ORDER!!
Back to this motor-while this SUV runs very good, this motor is one of the noisiest I have ever encountered. I would not worry about any rattle sounds, etc. If it runs well-go with the flow. If I worried about all the sounds coming from this motor-I could never get any sleep! Most mechanics who know this motor will tell you this is the nature of the beast!

akangl · February 2004

I listened to it, sounds like a normal V6 to me, a slight rattle, nothing I would lose sleep over. Its a little bit of a noisy engine, but if people are freaking about that go drive a Jeep GC with a 4.0L I-6, believe me, the Explorer is QUIET compared to that. I have another long trip coming in a few days, will turn 6000 miles before its 2 months old. Excellent truck, no regrets.

starrin · February 2004

Hi,

I have an 02 Eddie Bauer - has about 13k. I am starting to notice a shuttering-rubbing-vibration sound only when I go from a stop to an acceleration. More importantly it seems to happen more when I have the steering turned. i noticed this at lower miles but it seems to be happening more often (or I just listen for it more). Does this sound familiar to anyone? I take it that I should get it looked at?

thanks for any input.

swschrad · February 2004

legend for nonsense. carefully lift the wiper blade out of its saddle, and let it hang free for a bit of a drive. maybe even lift up the boot a little and shoot some silicone or door lock antifreeze down the shaft. many will work again.

gardencar · March 2004

I have an AWD, V8 Explorer that I bought new in 1996. I change oil every 3,000 to 3,500 mi. Other than replacing O2 sensors at 48,000 mi. and now a check engine light at 82,500 it's been fine. I use it mainly for towing a 4500# boat and hauling back gardening supplies from Home Depot. I had the radiator flushed at the 60,000 mi. service. From your real life experiences, how often should the radiator be flushed and engine coolant be replaced? Is every 30,000 mi. good enough for transmission service? Thanks in advance for your advice.

wijoco · March 2004

I would recommend it more often, at least every 2 years or 30,000 miles. The anti-corrosives in antifreeze never last as long as the makers claim.

gardencar · March 2004

Thanks for the tip. Really appreciate it. The last time I changed antifreeze was 25,000 miles and about two and a half years ago. Guess it's time for a change. What about transmission services? Thanks again.

swschrad · March 2004

solid rule of thumb is, if you tow, every 30,000 miles do a drain and fill with new pan filter. doing that with the present exploder. if your manufacturer's tow routine is more frequent (I have heard of some cases that say every 15,000 miles,) do that.

if you don't, car makers' recommendations are all over the lot, from 60,000 to never. I have done both those extremes as well, and never got hurt. HOWEVER, if you get into a "this looks bad" situation way down the road and do a change, the sudden shock of the new super-clean high-detergent fluid can and often does knock some petrified crud loose from the valve body, a blind passage, the back of an actuator... and that can plug something very shortly after a transmission change. happens fairly often, from the posts on this site, it would appear.

I would thus personally lean towards fluid/filter changes every 30,000 if you tow more than once or for more than a little bit across town.... and every 60,000 if you don't.

there are all sort, manner, and kind of transmission flush machines and tech sales reps eager to use them on your car. see the second paragraph to understand where I'm coming from when I say... never in Hell on my car. anything is doing any pumping through my tranny, it's going to be the internal pump only.

I don't want any generic backflush situations in my tranny for the same reason I don't want the clerk at the medical insurance company doing my cardiac stent implants. two words: not qualified. and it's for ME, and I deserve BETTER than average.

for me, it's the OEM filter and factory-new grade fluid from a prime manufacturer, not any sort of relabeller, reprocessor, etc. same reason as above. let the other guy discover the cheap stuff that won't hold up.

your mileage/life/results/politics may vary............ there have been some grand hoo-rahs over fluids, flushes and intervals in the 4 years I've been watching this site. really classic backbiting screed kind of things. anybody want to prove me wrong, take 100 identical red cars, 100 identical blue cars of the same model... have 200 professional drivers and three professional mechanics do controlled experiments on them for 120,000 miles or more... and see me when I care :-D

ckat · March 2004

Have had car "fixed" twice-still not fixed-had oxygen sensor replaced -fuel injector cleaned-some gasket replaced-still not running right-check engine lite still on-98 explorer-120,000--heres the problem--now most of the time it does this-but some days-up till a week everything is fine--when I go to brake it dies on me-starts to jerkkkkkkk-then dies-have learned-works sometimes that if I punch the gas-it'll keep going--have no problem starting-afterwards-although first crank is very cold and hard to get going--now while I'm driving w/o stopping runs like a top---please help--about to have to turn it into a charity for a small tax write off-thanx

akangl · March 2004

First off, try writing your post in something resembling english, you are VERY hard to follow.

To me it sounds like its doing what my 94 Blazer used to do and that turned out to be the EGR valve, has that been checked?

jrc346 · March 2004

Sounds to me like you have a leaking intake manifold gasket. It is very likely that a vacuum leak is setting off your check engine light and giving you the other readings. This is pretty common for 98's (with the 4.0L SOHC V6 ONLY) especially. See what others here think though before you take this as fact :-)

swschrad · March 2004

the next question is which one. needs further analysis, but that 98 should not be used up yet. you need a mechanic, not a parts runner, working on this.

gardencar · March 2004

swschrad, thanks for the humorous and informative reply. I will be using the 30,000 mile intervals and watch carefully what machines they use to pump my OEM tranny fluids. By internal pump did you mean transmission pump, and therefore, you don't trust any machines to flush out the system? Just drain and fill, then?

Also, my check engine light came on last week, at 82,500 miles, V8, AWD, 96 model. It used to lug upon accelerating when cold. Now it does it even when warmed up, at medium acceleration. It could even be pinging. I'm thinking maybe EGR problems? Thanks.

swschrad · March 2004

if you had a computer reader, you might get some clues even without a $$$ light set. for instance, if you have lousy crossing plots on the o2 sensors, there is something there to look after. as well as something to consider on whether the sensor was killed early by other issues loading gas or soot into the exhaust. bogus temp readings can also hold your engine back. as can an air filter that is plugged up, etc.

btw, have you changed plugs on that beast any time since manufacture? I had a couple with intermittent issues under reverse with lots of accessory load and started pulling plugs, to find a couple with widened gaps where the platinum buttons had been knocked off or failed during initial installation. a new set of plugs at 27,000 made a big difference, and just in time for my first real tow in the way-outback.

all of which is to say, don't fixate on one part and fight through Hell to get after it just because you can. by mid-80s in mileage, as soon as something starts acting up, you're due for a real good engine analysis IMHO.

-0-

as for tranny flushing machines: yeah, I have my doubts about 'em. if there's enough pressure to kick slop out of hidden passages, there's enough to blow seals. if you change the fluid often enough, you aren't going to build up slop, because the fluid is massively detergent and will carry goo away.

I support the use of pony pumps to run fluid through a tranny when a car/truck is being towed, provided the assembly is approved by the carmaker. there is at least one that is ford approved for the v6 applications, sold by RV outfits for those folks towing an exploder behind their class-A RV so they have a get-around car. these have to be engineered applications, not scaring something up in the surplus bin at World 'O' Rusties and making up a monster with fifteen valves

jenbfl · March 2004

My wonderful husband replaced the brakes on my 01 Explorer Sport a few days ago (put less than 25 miles on since the change).

I had 74,000 miles on the originals and they worked fine, but the front rotors were getting a little warped. So, we decided to change the front (we had the rear machined) and replaced the pads all around. Also put new shocks on at the same time.

Only problem is, now when I am almost stopped, the pedal nearly goes to the floor and it chatters at the same time. Pumping did not make a difference, still the same reaction. High speed stopping is fine, goes straight, pedal feels good and firm, but under 10 MPH, does this chattering thing. Since the rotors are new, I looked at the wear marks on the front and both sides seem to be riding the outside 1/2 to 1 inch of the rotor only. They get hot very quick and smell like they are burning. I am told this is ok, and give it a few days to "break in"?!?!?! I am not comfortable with this at all. I only drive 2 miles to work, but I still need good brakes!

The pads are on straight, they do not seem to be uneven in any way, fluid level is good. Are the calipers bad? Do we need to bleed the line? Does anyone have any suggestions on what else to check, change, adjust? Thank you!

nvbanker · March 2004

Could be the wrong type of pads.... That car may call for ceramics.

swschrad · March 2004

if the lines weren't bled, they must be. as the brakes heat up, if there are air or humidity in the line, it will vaporize, and provide errant performance. good excuse to get a hand vacuum pump kit for me last year

it's also a good idea, but not strictly required, to replace all the brake fluid until clear comes out by this method, replacing with new DOT-3 as you go so the resivoir is never less than a third full.

quick, hot stops are supposed to be the way a number of mechanics seat new pads. they can also be cross-buffed with a pad, I suppose.

if you have even wear showing on both sides, the calipers are probably OK. the slides should have been lubed with the appropriate high-temp brake grease. also, the backs of the pads should have been coated with a lube compound that should have been packed with them... I think that gets to the mountings of the pads to insure they don't chatter.

I suspect the issue is the pads are fluttering due to sticky sliders to cause your chatter... and you need to bleed (and preferably replace) your fluid to fix the bottoming out. that sounds like it's getting warm in the caliper and inpurities or air are causing the loss of hydraulic pressure. neither is rocket science; the bleeding is the most critical right now.

wijoco · March 2004

Three questions...
What engine? What was the code? What gasket was replaced?

wijoco · March 2004

My very first question is: Is the "chattering" and soft pedal at low speed an ABS pulsation? That was my first concern when I read your description. If so, then you have some trouble. If not, then there is a lot of truth to the "wait and see" method, unless it's a safety issue in terms of your ability to stop the truck. What happens is that the caliper pistons, after being depressed to install the new pads, are now out of position for a time until the inner caliper seal reseats itself properly. Depending on the condition of the calipers, this can take as long as a few weeks. If you don't start seeing improvement within that time, I would pull the wheels back off and inspect everything, checking...
1.Caliper pins and slides for greasing and the entire caliper assembly for binding
2.Check the new pads against the old ones and look for missing or incorrect/improperly installed anti-rattle springs/clips
3.Check the rear drum adjusters for proper position. After making the hand adjustment at the drum, the final adjustment is done by stopping the vehicle a few times while going in reverse. This is normal for all drum brakes and sometimes will alleviate the soft pedal after a brake job. If you have rear discs, did your husband use the proper method? There is a special tool required for rear calipers.
4.Consider bleeding the brake lines. If you have ABS, use the proper methods. Hopefully your husband knew to use a hose-pinch tool and open the calpier bleed screws before depressing the pistons which is required for working on ABS systems.

Have fun.

gardencar · March 2004

Thqnks or the advice. The plugs were changed recently. I was thinking I needed a good engine analysis. Made the appointment for next week. Will post after that.

swschrad · March 2004

doh! should have realized that could be ABS... but again, pedal to the floor sounds like good old-fashioned fluid boil-off. and that comes from air and/or old water-loaded brake fluid in the system. there will be a color change when the fluid is contaminated. if the color is red, there has been some water in there long enough to do some light surface rusting (or maybe worse) of the wheel cylinder/caliper. if solids come out, the cylinder/caliper needs a replacement.

if it was a master cylinder, it would have been a soft pedal all the way down, not at the end, when there was heat in the wheel cylinder.

I had no ABS issues whatsoever changing out my whole brake fluid load last summer with a mity-vac hand pump.

procedure: insure full fluid resivoir, cap it loosely, slide back under the frame a little, crack the bleeder open again, pull vacuum until the standard mity-vac brake kit's jug is half-full and all fluid entering is clear, spin the bleeder valve wrench a half turn to hold the vacuum, refill fluid resivoir, dump nasty old brake fluid in recycle bucket. repeat until it's all new fluid coming out, then tighten the bleeder back down hard and put the cap on. move on to next wheel.

dump old fluid frequently. never, ever, E V E R reuse it. if you have vacuum being held before opening the bleeder again, you don't need to have any fluid in the bottom of the jug to cover the inlet hose that ends near the bottom to prevent air suck-back in any ham handed mistake you make.

it was a darned good excuse to buy a $44 tool I've been wanting a while. it only took an hour of being clean and fussy to do all four wheels.

save those bleeder caps, and put 'em back on the ends of the valves when you're done.

wijoco · March 2004

I agree, but would add one thing: don't let the master reservoir run down to the point of sucking air, keep it topped off as you're bleeding the wheels. I don't know about the Explorer ABS, but a lot of ABS pumps are trouble if you get air trapped in the valving.

ogbonna · March 2004

My A/C will not engage. The manual says it will only work if the outside temp is above 50 DEG.
Well when I turned it on the outside temp was 79.
Could this be relay malfunction or the system needs a charge?? Has anyone had this problem??

email washijl@auburn.edu

nvbanker · March 2004

Could be either. I'm betting the charge is low.

swschrad · March 2004

absolutely, it's a real pain to have to go back and rebleed a system to get air out after you run down the master cylinder. I determined that if I didn't run my catch-cup up over half full, there was still plenty of fluid (an ounce or two) in the master cylinder, and no chance of filling my lines with air.

learned that one the hard way on my 90 ranger, having dad bleed me by pushing the brake pedal down. screw up once, and you can learn for life :-D

mbednorz · March 2004

It's been several days, but better late than never. I looked in detail at the difference between the '02 and '03+ middle seat. Short answer, to upgrade the '02 you would need to get the entire middle seat. If you really want to pursue it, try finding an online auto parts locator.

jodar96 · March 2004

If the pads are contacting only 1.5-2 of the rotors, that means the new rotors have smaller than your old ones. I had the same problem with my son's 95 Olds Cutlass Supreme. I told them what I had and they gave me 10.5" rotors. the car takes 11.0" rotors.

If my assumption is correct, the pads are contacting outter edge of the rotor, and before long since they are NOT applyig pressure to a smooth/machined surface, they will break up.

I have changed a lot of rotors, but that mishap caused me to size up the old rotor against the new one from now on before I do a brake job.

Joe

tulsahog · March 2004

On a 2002 Explorer with Auto transmission, the maintenance schedule shows fluid to be changed at 30,000 miles for certain transmissions that are listed by model number. According to the owner's manual for the '02 Explorer, the transmission (model 5R55W) is not one of those listed. By this you can assume the 30K interval does not apply. On three other explorers, have changed at 50,000 mi intervals with no problems. On one explorer the dealer recommended 22,000 mi intervals, which was not the maintenance schedule.

Does anyone know Ford's official stance on the 5R55W fluid change interval. It has no dipstick.

chuck1 · March 2004

We have had discussion on this board already about this transmission. It seems that 50K intervals will work, if you use the transmission fluid supplied by Ford. As far as the dealer recommending 22K intervals, thats called the dealer lining their pocket with "gross profit!" I have a 2002 as well, and will be changing at 50K! Hope this helps....

akangl · March 2004

My 2004 Explorer is acting an awful lot like its low on tranny fluid and I have no way to check it. Its bump shifting into 3rd, very hesitant to down shift, and occationally slips, I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow. BTW, my truck has 6400 miles on it, but its been this way for a while, but was very intermittant at first, more frequent now. I can't say I like Ford's thinking on this one.

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