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Thanks.
Considering the mileage? 47K is very low, oxygen sensors don't go bad that often if maintenance is kept up and driven propery. My 1991 and 1993 Explorers both went over 150K with the original oxygen sensors, and the gas mileage did not depreciate, they only got about 13 in town anyway. My wifes 1997 Explorer with 5.0L V8 has over 145K with original oxygen sensors, and my 2000 Explorer with 5.0L V8 has over 118,000 miles with original oxygen sensors. Gas milage on both is normal, about 14 in town.
Now THAT'S funny! And I know what you mean- my wife's nickname is "Curb Queen" (she scrubbed all the lettering off the tires on our old Expedition; when I replaced them I had the new ones mounted with white lettering to the inside!). About the only time I experience her driving is coming home from a party, and I'm usually asleep after 5 minutes (thankfully)!
Also when I had the sensors replaced, the service manager (independent garage) mentinoed this was a common problem with the Explorer. Not everyone has this problem obviously but considering what the OP stated, the oxygen sensor would be my first guess but he/she should take it to an auto part store and get the code read. Then there will be no question.
You're a braver man than I! :P
My Explorer has 43,600 miles and was purchased used from my cousin a year ago. Has been a great vehicle 'til now!
I'm a bit worried---Does anyone know what's happening ?
(I have already made an appt with the local dealer for Monday)
Thank you !!!!!
I have an extended warranty to 75K miles. It cost me $100 deductible to have this fixed. Do NOT buy an Explorer without at least the $800 5year/75K extended powertrain warranty. I am not a believer in buying extended warranties, but with 2002-2005 Ford Explorer it is a must. I chose an Explorer over Toyota 4 Runner, and Honda Pilot. I knew the Explore is not nearly as reliable, but I liked the Explorer looks, room, and its ability to pull.
Joe
I think i just figured out what milage that this happens at.
I have a 2000 explorer eddie bauer with 43,500 miles and that just happened to me, it's happened about four times in the last week, and now i know what it is. It's a short in the "multifunction switch" which is your turnsignal, wiper, hi/low beam, hazard control.
This switch is ford part # YL5Z 13K359 AAA and can be purchased from the dealership for about 85 bucks. It is VERY easy to replace and only requires removing several screws to get the steering column cover off. I don't know what the dealer would charge to do that but seriously you can do it yourself, i just did it this morning.
rockauto.com also has these switches at about half the price, but i opted to change this out stat as it's a fire hazard.
good luck
That is a rare problem to have, as most people exercise the friction plates enough in normal driving. It could have possibley went bad due to a low fluid level or lack of "friction modifier" additive. There might have been a small leak or seepage to cause loss of fluid. It could also be damaged by any water leaking into the differential, by going through high water, with a damaged, loose or broken vent hose. Just be sure that rear axle has the correct 75W-140 Synthetic lubricant and "friction modifier" additive, the vent hose is in good shape and the vent not clogged. Check your owners manual for fluid requirements.
What I've gathered here is that the V8 is more desireble than the V6. Comments here have led me to believe the extra power doesn't come at much of a sacrifice to gas milege.
But after scanning used Explorers, there are many more V6's for sale making them easier to find and cheaper to purchase.
Is there a model year of the Explorer in the past 4+ that marks a big change? Has the engine or chasis changed much?
thanks,
My second problem is a rough idling and what appears to be a dash vibration when slowly decelerating to a stop. Anybody aware of any TSB's or problems that would cause this?
Appreciate any input you can give, these problems are pretty frustrating.
My Supply fuel line (only) has a leak. A new one at Ford will cost approx $530.00 as Ford will only sell a complete fuel rail. There is no after market for this part and the salvage yards will not sell a fuel line only as it is considered an integral part of the engine. $530.00 plus tax seems a lot of money for a 2 ft braided flexible fuel line! Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Would you happen to have a digital picture of how bad your seats cracked? I'm getting little cracks on our seat also, which is 2004 bought at end-of-year so we've only had it about 18 months as well, with 8K miles.
Click on a member's name and then the CarSpace link in their profile (like mine :shades: ) to easily get to their page.
Steve, Host
Mat.
You can also loose vacuum at the Power Brake Booster, or from loose intake manifold bolts. Check intake manifold bolts for tightness, if you find any loose, snug them down, don't ovetighten them.
How about the fuel filter, has it been changed lately? It sbould be changed every 30K.
Check the Air Intake Tube between the MAF and the Throttle Body, they tend to crack and leak on the underside, take it off and check it carefully. If the Air Intake Tube leaks, it can make the vehicle run very badly, because the engine is getting more air than the computer thinks, and it calibrates the fuel mixture too lean. If you find any cracks, tape it up with duct tape to see if it makes any improvement. If it does improve, put on a new Air Intake Tube.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
Thanks.
Thanks.