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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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  • willowswillows Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Explorer xlt 4x4 that has 38,000 miles on it. A few months ago the front lighter (what are they called now that they aren't used as a cigarette lighter?) stopped working. I just let it go because I have the rear one and planned to take care of it before the summer. Now when I set the car alarm, it is giving two beeps instead of one even if all the doors are closed. I have also noticed that the "open door" light is going on when I start it up even if all the doors are closed.

    Has anyone else had these problems? I have the extended warranty so will bring it to the dealer but was wondering if anyone knew the root of the problem.

    Thanks!
  • fordsstumpmefordsstumpme Member Posts: 2
    Thank you!!!! The problem was big holes on the bottom of the air tube and a dirty MAF sensor(probably from the gapping holes in the tube). The Explorer runs like a champ now. Without this site I would have still been pulling my hair out. Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You are certainly welcome, glad to help.
  • revriderrevrider Member Posts: 1
    Had the same problem on my 2002,it was intermittent at first. When it was working right I opened and closed each door till it would stay on. It ended up being the driver's door, if you banged on it on the outside near the handle it would go off, I lubed the latch mechanism and key lock cylinder with wd-40, seems to be ok after 3 mos, must be a switch that sticks in there someplace.
  • ssalladessallade Member Posts: 1
    We've had a lot of rain lately, so I was thinking that was the reason for my brakes squeaking...but now I feel that shudder if I have to stop suddenly-that tells me I may need brakes. I've NEVER needed brakes on a car (previous Explorer included) before around 50,000 miles. Anybody else having this problem? Do these symptoms mean there could be something else wrong other than wear/tear on the brakes?
  • copierguycopierguy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 sport. Recently the rear running lights and dash lights went out. I replaced a blown fuse, but they still do not work.
    Can anyone help?
    Thank You
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    You must have had a very light foot! 50K and no brake pads required. I'll bet you need them now. I replaced the front pads on my 99 XLT at 22K, 50K and 71K. Rear at 40K & 75K. The last replacements, front & rear, were Raybestos QS Ceramic. That squealing you hear is the warning that your brakes pads are at the point of being completely worn. I hope you did not have uneven wear on the brake pads. Sometimes this could mean you are eating in to one side of the rotors. Get it checked ASAP!!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I have been using the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic Brake Pads on my last 4 Explorers, because they last over 60,000 miles when used with the stock rotors. I do a lot of stop and go city driving. They are LOW dust and can take hard braking, and high temperatures, and are not that expensive, about $42 for the front and about $45 for the rears, plus shipping. The Carbon Metallic pads will actually make the rotors last longer and wear more evenly. I highly recommend the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic brake pads, I keep a set on the shelf in the garage when the pads on the vehicle get down to about 5/32" of lining. New pads have 11/32" of lining, and you MUST replace them when they get down to 3/32" of lining or before. That means you can get over 60,000 miles out of 8/32" of lining, which computes to getting about 8,000 miles out of each 1/32" of lining. I have never had to replace or resurface any rotor after running the Carbon Metallics on them. On my 1997 V8 Explorer, I ran the Carbon Metallics for over 60,000 miles until they wore out, and the rotors still looked good, and I put another set of Carbon Metallics on the same rotors. That vehicle now has almost 150,000 miles with the original front rotors, and they have never been turned, are not warped and they brake very smooth and straight. It is amazing how the brakes still feel like new. You can find the Carbon Metallics with a Google Search. Just remember to keep up all maintenance. Every 30k, I flush all the brake fluid at the same time that I flush the transmission fluid. It only uses about a quart bottle of brake fluid, well worth spending the 5 bucks. The transmission flush cost me 50 bucks for 20 quarts of Mercon V Trans Fluid, plus 10 bucks for the Trans filter.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I thought it sounded strange, that you had a terrible squeak even with the belt off. Then the same thing happened to me! I've got a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT with the 5.0L V8 engine. You did not mention your engine size.
    I started getting squeaking and squealing sounds last week and thought it would be the idler pully bearings going bad. I pulled off the belt, and sure enough I still heard the squealing, it kind of comes and goes, stops and starts, or it may start and continue for a while. It sure did sound exactly like a dry rubber seal squealing, and the only seal it could be is the one on the front of the crankshaft, behind the harmonic balancer pully. It was very difficult to reach, but I squirted WD-40 behind the pully in the direction of the seal, from every angle that I could reach. It seemed to work, as the squeal has went away for now. The question now is if the squeal will stay gone or not. I replaced the bearings in both of the idler pullies while I was in there, as they were starting to get loose and did not spin smoothly. I'll post back if the squeak reocurres, and what the solution would be. I'd hate to have to drain the cooling system, pull the radiator, pull the fan and pull the Harmonic Balancer Pully just to reach a squeaky seal. If I did all that work, I'd be sure to put in a new seal and grease it good with some synthetic grease. Once the Harmonic Balance Pully is off, the Front Crankshaft Seal removes from the front, so the timing cover does not need to be removed. Just pull out the old seal, and press in the new seal, and put everything back together.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    02 exp with the v6. while stopped but in drive, i hear a buzzing sound. if i pop into park it goes away. doesn't do it all the time, but i cant figure out what it is.
  • kidwelfarekidwelfare Member Posts: 1
    I just got passed down my uncles 91 Expl. It needs a fuel pump which Im going to buy and replace this weekend with a friends help. Im going to get the manual and follow it of course, however I'm wondering if there's any extra advise anyone can offer. Special tools? Whats the most reliable aftermarket brand? Napa etc. I know I need to drop the fuel tank so any pointers would probably help. Thank you.
  • tmgreentmgreen Member Posts: 2
    +Seriously though, I just bought my mountaineer about 2 months ago and just the other day I started to hear a noise coming from the passenger side dashboard that sounded like air leaking. Then conveniently just yesterday the air bag light started blinking and then just stayed on. Too add more misery to my already wonderful day, the vents on the front of the dashboard decided to stop working so the only A/C I had was on my legs and here in Ohio the humidity is so bad that you could stand still and break a sweat, so needless to say I wasn't too happy with this investment and won't be until I can figure out why it hates me so much. By the way, I disconnected the air bag (I have a 9 month pregnant wife and I wasn't going to take a chance) and that didn't solve the leaking air problem. Someone please help me out if you have any idea what is wrong.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You will need to have fuel line disconnect tools, available at any auto parts store.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    The air sound you heard could be a vaccuum leak in the AC controls hoses. This could account for the air not blowing out of your vents. Can the AC control make air blow out anywhere else, other than the heater discharge vent near the floor, do you get any air out of the dash vents in any control position? Look for a loose vaccuum hose under the dash. Did the air stop blowing out of the vent AFTER you disconnected the air bag, and how did you disconnect the air bag? Did you disconnect it in the dash, or did you just pull the SRS fuse?
  • tmgreentmgreen Member Posts: 2
    I don't get any air at all out of the dash vents. Also the air stopped blowing out of the vents before I disconnected the air bag, and I disconnected it through the glove compartment under the dash, which was the last thing I did. Thanks for the advice, I will check under the dash tomorrow morning and get back with you. In the meantime, do you happen to know what could be causing the air bag light to come on and stay on. This is my main concern at the moment.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    If you litterally unpluged the Air Bag under the dash, that is why the Air Bag light is on, it senses that the Air Bag is not connected and sees that as a fault, therefore it lights the Air Bag yellow indicator light. The SRS fuse should be unpluged before the technician touches the Air Bag connection, wait 10 minutes after unplugging the fuse to be sure there is no residual electrical charge. Air bags can be very dangerous, they recommend to disconnect the battery before working on Air Bag Systems, called SRS (supplimental restaint system). Air bag systems should only be worked on by qualified technicians. After all power is disconnected, the technician can reconnect the Air Bag and then disable the system by removing the SRS fuse. You can't disable the Air Bag on just one side on this system.

    You didn't answer my question about where the air is blowing. Does air blow out anywhere? Where? I assume it was blowing out the bottom at the heater discharge, that is what usually would happen if it does not blow out the dash vents or defroster vents. This would still point to a problem with the air doors, which are usually controlled by vacuum motors, some of the doors now are electric controlled, I know the blend door is an electric motor and the temperature knob turns a electric poteniometer that moves the blend motor position. Since you heard the hiss, which sounds like it could be a leak from a loose or broken vaccuum hose, that would be the most likely thing to look for first.
  • aspenceraspencer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Ford Explorer 4.0.. the other day it stop getting spark so i replaced the ignition control module.. now I have plenty of spark but its not getting fuel.. I know its getting fuel to the fuel rail and I can get it to run with quick start but it wont stay running.. someone told me it had to be the pcm( power control module )but I dont want to pay that kind of money if Im just going to guessing.. please any info would be a help.
  • jarmendijarmendi Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 explorer that seems to have a whistling sound that is getting progressively worse.It used to come on solely when the A/C came on but now starts up every single time.I had it checked out by a mechanic in the family whom assumed it was related to the air filter/hose.Sound went away temporarily but has returned and will not go away.I am hoping that someone has experienced similar problems and can shed some light on this annoying deffect.Thanks in advance!
  • amberj32amberj32 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 02 Ford Explorer. I bought it used August 05 and the a/c was working fine. Just the past couple of months it worked on and off and now the past couple weeks it hasn't worked at all. It sounds like the compressor turns on, but the air is just hot coming out.(depending on the temp. outside) The heater works fine. I thought it might need more refrigerant but when a friend hooked it up with gauge it was in the red section, which on the bottle says take to get serviced, major problem. Does anyone have any ideas? I don't want to take it to a mechanic and get ripped off.
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    What is the deal on the 1998 Explorer V6 SOHC rear spark plug, on the passenger's side? I have tried for 2 hours and could not fit my hand or arm to reach the plug wire boot. Let alone get a socket to remove the old plug and put in a new one and wire. Any thoughts?

    Nick
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like it is leaking refrigerant, could be due to any number of problems. A reputable garage could do an air-conditioner leak test which would tell you where the problem was.
  • fixitrodfixitrod Member Posts: 67
    We own two 1998s ...one V6 SOHC and one V8. One of the most difficult maintenance items is replacing the passenger side spark plugs. Until I discovered going through the wheel well. degree of difficulty went down significantly using extension sockets. Anyone having problems with failing door locks on drivers side. It seems switch is not the problem because when I replced it with one from another door they still stick. I jumped the contacts and still no locking howevr switch unlocks but is now beginning to fail at that. It seems mechanical out at the mechanism??? Any ideas appreciated
  • niwdogniwdog Member Posts: 2
    1994 Explorer Eddie Bauer - 4.0 V6 with 164,000 miles.
    I have a few issues and any advice would be appreciated. I recently purchased the Explorer from my sister, who had taken good care of it until a year ago. It has just been sitting and driven only occasionally. I knew there were a few issues, but got it for a very cheap price. The transmission seems to be loosing fluid. If it sits for a month or so, fluid has to be added. When I drove it 400 miles or so, half a quart had to be added. Any suggestions? Also, when slightly heavy acceleration or going up an incline it sounds like the valves rattle. I filled up with Premium Gas and added octane buster, this seemed to help. But, I can still hear some rattle. What causes this and is there a simple solution? Any mechanical failure to be concerned about? Also, the battery gage & fuel gage do not work. I have heard that it may often be the fuel float causing the fuel gage problem. Is there anything I can personally check to find the cause? Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
  • smiles428smiles428 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 Ford Explorer with a V6 4.0 liter engine with a manual transmission. It has been relatively problem free for the past 6 years, but recently I have noticed a squeak/chirp coming from what seems to be the upper rear portion of the engine, though it is hard to pinpoint. It is intermittent and some days worse than others. I cannot figure a pattern of its occurrence, it happens when the engine is cold as well as hot, with the A/C on as well as off. I have done the few things that I could think of, even though it seems to be coming from the rear of the engine I changed the belt and idler pulley, but it still makes the sound.

    There is no drop in performance of the engine, it is just annoying and I fear that if it goes unchecked I may do some serious damage to the engine (i only have 75,000 miles on it. Has anyone else experienced anything similiar? My father-in-law owns a Taurus with a V6 and he is experiencing the same sound.

    Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

    Jim in Houston
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    For the valve rattling, clean the MAF sensor, (Mass Air Flow sensor) located on the air tube near the air cleaner box.
    If fuel gauge reads empty all the time, replace fuel sending unit float.
    For Transmission leak, look underneath to see where fluid is coming from, most likely the pan gasket needs replacing. It could also be a leak at the tail housing seal or the front pump seal.

    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • ashevalleyashevalley Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Mercury Sable with a similiar noise. I know it is not a belt or belt tensioner. I took the car to a mechanic and he stated that it is a seal on the engine tranmission coupling. He stated that this not an uncommon problem with fords in general. The problem is that it will cost a ton of money in labor to fix. Im currently arguing with ford about the problem
  • smiles428smiles428 Member Posts: 3
    Did your mechanic explain the possible consequences of doing nothing about it? Just curious in case I decide to let it go for a while.
  • jimi1jimi1 Member Posts: 1
    the remote door lock will not work and when we turn the keys off and take them out nothing works, the windows, door locks, radio.... and the number pad will only unlock not lock the doors?? this all happened last night so we had to disconnect the battery to get the lights out
  • dcicaracasdcicaracas Member Posts: 1
    i bought the explorer new and since the beginning whenever you use the brakes alot like going down mountains the brakes go out and you have to pump, pump pump them to get any brakes. I changed the master cylinder, bled the lines but it still does it. under normal driving they work fine.

    any answers other than not driving through the mountains?
  • ashevalleyashevalley Member Posts: 2
    He stated that at some point the transmission may start to leak. He did not feel it was immediate problem that needed to be fixed. However the noise is annoying. Im still after Ford to see if they will do anything! This does not sound like an isolated problem. My mechanic said that on Fords the seal dries out.
  • smiles428smiles428 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info. Please let me know if you get anywhere with Ford.
  • chuckgibsonchuckgibson Member Posts: 5
    I am not getting a spark between the coil and the wires. Can anyone tell me how to test the coil to see if has gone out?
    Thanks in advance!
  • heathreheathre Member Posts: 1
    I need some help. I just purchases a used 1995 Ford Explorer, 4 dr. 4.0L 6 cyl. 150,000 miles. I have had this car for two days. The headlights have spontaneously shut off on me while driving the car at night three times now. I can't make out a pattern. It seems like I will be driving for 10 minutes or so with them on and all of a sudden, they shut-off.

    Does anyone have any idea why this is happening? Please help.

    Thanks

    H
  • steve106steve106 Member Posts: 2
    While driving yesterday my O/D light blinked on and off. I stopped the car, turned it off for 10 seconds and cranked it, light did not blink anymore. This morning on the way to work the transmission failed. No gear position worked, forward or reverse. I got to the side of the road, tried it several times in and out of gear, to no avail. I turned the engine off, raised the hood and did a quick check, got back in cranked it and it would go into gear. It is a 4x4 has 137,000 miles. I tried it several more times and it would sometimes work, sometimes not. Called a wrecker to tow to shop. I have read of shorted and burnt wires causing a similar issue. Any help for this? Thanks
    Steve106
  • steve106steve106 Member Posts: 2
    Failing door locks. Had the same problem, was fixed at dealer when the seatbolt recall was done. Problem is a broken wire in the wiring harness near the switch. Dealer said mine was cut into. My door locks would not lock and drivers side window did not go up and down. It was the power lead. You should have voltage on one side of the switch with ignition on. If your switch has no power on either side, that is your problem.
  • ohollimanoholliman Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 explorer sports trac xls. I want to put some fog lights on it. Can anyone tell me if it is already pre wired for them, and how do I install them. Thanks
  • rolltiderrolltider Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Ford explorer where the the rear hatch is opening when I drive. It happens 6 to 7 times a week when I am driving and the hatch opens. I have taken it to the dealer and they say unless they can be duplicate in the dealer lot they will not fit it. I have had it in twice and it didn't happen. Does anyone have any ideas or a telephone to Ford's claims department. I have small kids and cannot risk driving with them until this gets fixed. Any help would be appreciated.
  • tavtav Member Posts: 2
    Don't know if this will fix your problem but I do know that sometimes the latch on the hatch will stick and you think it is shut be the latch never closed completely. This happened to me on several occasions. If this is the case you can see the latch stuck open when you open the hatch. Normally a spring should pull the catch part shut even when the hatch door is open. My fix: Simply spray a little WD-40 on the latch and work the handle up and down making sure the catch always closes. Hasn't happened to me again since I did that. Good luck.
  • niwdogniwdog Member Posts: 2
    Modulator on side of the Transmission was bad. Was dumping trans. fluid into the exhaust. Local Transmission shop charged $183 to replace modulator & service Trans. EGR sensor (not valve) was bad, replaced myself for $60
    No more check engine light ...priceless !
  • hugscubhugscub Member Posts: 1
    I have this same problem. Does anyone know what the solution is?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Try checking your multifunction switch, pull back and forth on the stalk, and wiggle it around, see if it blinks or comes back on. The headlights work through the multifunction switch and are problematic. The good thing is that they are relatively cheap and easy to replace.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • teddyjacksonteddyjackson Member Posts: 10
    Can anyone recommend some sites that sell aftermarket accessories for a 2005 Explorer? I'm looking for running boards, tail light covers, etc. thanks!
  • mcook30512mcook30512 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0L with 41,000 miles on it, and a few days ago the 'Overdrive on/off light' started flashing. I took it to my Ford dealer yesterday (June 1) and they said the transmission needs $3,900 worth of repairs but that they will do it for $495, 'cause I am a 'loyal customer' and 'Oh, by the way, would you like to trade it in for a new car'?
    What's going on here? I know that Ford has transmission issues with Explorers, but why the relatively cheap bill? Is it likely that Ford (as opposed to the dealer)is picking up the bill?
    :sick: :confuse:
  • dorkygrindorkygrin Member Posts: 2
    Has anybody did a DIY replacement of a leaking rack? I have a rebuilt rack but not sure I have all the tools necessary to swap them. Any detailed instructions available on the web?

    Thanks
  • whattodo2whattodo2 Member Posts: 18
    As a recently widowed mom of two little ones I'm looking for a reliable, all weather safe, budget-sense vehicle with the following specs - fit two carseats, big lab dog, big wheels and tent w/ accessories, possibly fit lawnmower (or tow behind), bikes, etc. - did I mention on a tight budget?

    Anyway, I've basically narrowed my search to Jeep or Explorer, and currently am looking at a 1994 JGC with recently rebuilt transmission, 166K, new tires, new front brake pads, engine work done to replace valve seals (?), one owner salesman, "test driven" all last winter by a friend who recommends it but needs to sell it (already owns 7 vehicles). Only "quirk" known is back driver side window doesn't work - not the motor. Asking $3,000 more or less....Is this a good deal???

    In comparison, looking at a 1997 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer, maintenance records available, 106K, $5,500 OBO. No other details known.

    Either one seems to give the flexibility for cargo room and road safety (we hope to go on road trips - no real off road but camping, parks, etc), but the cost vs the mileage and age - -
    Does anyone have any opinions from owning both of these vehicles? Any years to avoid? Any specific questions to ask?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You can appraise them here while waiting for reliability and usability comments. Used Caravans are cheap too.

    Steve, Host
  • crystaljcrystalj Member Posts: 1
    Hi,I have a 91 ford explorer...when I accelerate it feels like its running out of gas.it will get up to like 30 then it looses acceleration.I had the fuel filter changed and it ran good that day but the next day it was running like crap again!I also had the cadilac converter checked and its not pluged....any suggestions on what it could be?
  • allisonmiallisonmi Member Posts: 5
    I've had my 2002 Explorer for three years and up until a month ago, have absolutely loved it. But then it started sounding like a jet was taking off and had the right rear wheel bearing replaced. That took care of the problem. It currently has a little over 70,000 miles on it.

    Soon after, I noticed that if I turned from a stopped position, there was major grinding in the tires, like it was trying to get traction not a grinding on metal, which was especially noticeable if I was on gravel. It's not as noticeable when going through road curves at more than 30 mph. I've had the tires checked, the differential checked, and the universal joint looked at - all came back fine. Now they've changed out the power steering fluid and added an additive, but so far, it's still there. It's coming from both the front and back, but more noticeable in the front because of the turning tires. Please help - my mechanic is at a loss. :sick:
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Remove the plastic air tube between the air cleaner box and the throttle body, and check it for any holes or cracks in the bottom of it. If you find any, wrap it with duct tape, put it back on and see if runs any better. If that fixes it, you need a new air tube.

    E.D. ISF
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Tell us more about this, exactly what explorer do you have, V6 or V8 engine, Automatic or Manual Transmission, 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive? Describe the sound a little more and what it is like and how the sound changes on different road surfaces.

    E.D. ISF
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