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at this point i just hit 60k. despite the sealed for life mumbo jumbo, it seems to shift better after the fluid change and get softer over time. just my experience.
Check vaccuum lines for any leaks, a leak big enough to keep it from starting would have to be a large leak.
Check fuel pressure, use a pressure gauge that connects to the pressure test port schrader fitting in the fuel rail at the top of the engine. A bad pressure regulator can cause this.
Check engine compression, if low, engine timing could be off.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
I can start the car, (sometimes) take the positive cable off the battery and the car stays running. This used to be a test to see if the alternator was good, is it still? This morning the car started fine then as I was driving on the highway the electrical gauge dropped down all the way. I got to work and left the car running. I checked the positive cable and the wires going to that and nothing. I got back in the car and turned on the AC and the electrical gauge went up to normal. Does this sound like a short of some type? Any help would be great. Oh, I also changed the battery and the fusable link and that has not solved it. Thanks Chris
Note: It is not good to take the battery lead loose with the engine running because of todays electronic alternators and electronic modules throughout the car, they get fried easily from voltage fluctuations. Test Battery/System Voltage with a volt meter across the battery, and check alternator amps output with an inductance ammeter held next to the wire from the alternator.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Depressurize your fuel system first - easiest way is to disconnect the fuel inertia switch under the dash (passenger side) and turn the key cranking the engine until it starves itself for gas and quits.
Sometimes after starting, the Theft light continues to flash for a few minutes. Sometimes the airbag light also flashes for a few minutes.
Took it to the "auto electrician", all they could suggest was to use a different key, maybe the antitheft chip was broken.
Took it to the local Ford dealer three times. First time they repaired a wire to the crankshaft position sensor. Next time they replaced a relay (no, I don't know which one - black cube with 4-5 terminals, I don't have it any more). Last time (today) - they suggest replacing the main electrical junction box and main harness, for about $4K. I told them I needed to think about that a while.
Tinkering buddy at work thinks it's not electrical at all but vapor lock (can that even happen with an injected engine?), suggests replacing the thermostat with a cooler running one.
I'm open to suggestions at this point.
Even if the problem is some form of vapor lock, DO NOT change the thermostat to a cooler one. Use ONLY the correct temperature rated thermostat in your engine, because the engine must warm up to the proper temperature before the computer will operate correctly. The engine starts and runs for about 2 minutes with the computer in "OPEN LOOP MODE" until the engine is warm enough, then the computer goes into "CLOSED LOOP MODE".
I would treat fuel pressure as a big suspect on this one. You need to check fuel pressure when it is acting up. The fuel pressure port is on the fuel rail near the top of the engine. It has a Shrader Valve with a cap, sort of like a valve stem on a tire. They have a fuel pressure gauge made for this that has a hose and the valve adaper on one end, just screw it onto the fuel pressure port and read the pressure. Remember, Safey First. Watch out of any fuel leaks and fire hazard. Check the pressure when the car is running normally, and then again when it is acting up, and compare the pressures. I'm not sure what the normal pressure should be, I think somewhere between 30 and 60 pounds.
If the problem turns out not to be in the fuel system, then the ignition system is the next thing to suspect.
Also check for any vaccuum leaks, the Idle Air Solenoid, ect.
Let us know what you find.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
I had a '94 Ranger with the problem you describe to a 'T'. Once it was so bad the tow truck was on its way and it finally started while waiting. The computer finally recorded a trouble code which led me to replace the fuel pump relay. This might be the relay they already repaced though as it receives signals from the c.p. sensor. Mine was intermittent as well. Frustrating! Essentially mine was getting the signal to the relay telling it the car was attempting to start but it wasn't sending voltage on to the fuel pump to introduce fuel into the system. It was starving itself of fuel. The Haynes manual gives a systematic way to test - "fuel pump/fuel pressure check" - the relay and other components. With an intermittent problem it's hard to know for sure. My $5-10 replacement of f.p. relay eliminated the problem.
Thanks!
I would think the best thing to do is drive it until it warms up and makes the noise, then have them put it up on the rack, and try to duplicate the problem while running it on the rack, then they could see and feel under the car and find out where it is coming from.
If they can't fix it, it may be best to drive even further away to another dealer and have them check it. Maybe they can give you a loaner and you can leave it there until they figure out what the problem is, and get it fixed.
That's about all I can say about that.
E.D. ISF
Spark Plugs? New spark plugs are just that, New. Cleaned spark plugs are used spark plugs that have been cleaned up, NOT a recommended practice anymore. Spark plugs in a properly running engine can last up to 100,000 miles, but in a poorly running engine, the combustion is "dirty" and creates carbon deposits in the combustion chamber and on the spark plug. A dirty spark plug is a strong indication of an engine that needs attention. Don't clean the spark plugs, fix the engine. If you don't know about these things, it's best to take it to someone who does. First make sure that all hoses, wires, tubes are all properly in place. Do a basic tuneup new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, etc. While the spark plugs are out, do a cylinder compression test on each cylinder, and write down the maximum pressure developed by each cylinder. They should all be within 20% of each other. Low cylinders should be investigated for head gasket leaks, valve leaks, cylinder head cracks or leaks, or leaky piston rings. There should be no combustion gas going into the cooling system and no coolant going into any of the cylinders. There should be no steam or smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. The cooling system should be clean, inside the radiator cap should be clean, and inside the coolant reservoir should be clean. The engine should run at normal operating temperature. There should be no vaccuum leaks and the engine should idle smoothly at 600 to 700 rpm. Check the large plastic air tube that runs from the air cleaner box to the engine intake throttle body for any leaks, cracks or holes, especially on the bottom, this is a known problem with these cars. Any cracks, leaks, or holes found in the large air tube should be taped and repaired, or replace the large air tube. The check engine light should be OFF, with no DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) stored in the computer.
The Engine Oil Level should be at the proper level with the correct motor oil and the motor oil filter should be clean. The oil and the oil filter should be changed every 5,000 or sooner. The air filter should be clean, change it every 15,000 miles or sooner. The fuel filter should be changed every 30,000 miles or sooner. The automatic transmission fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles or sooner. The brake fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles. Check all belts and hose to be sure that they are in good shape. Replace any that are questionable, old or cracked.
There, that's a start. Let us know how it runs after you get all this done.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
it will not shift into first gear until i let up on the gas a little then it will shift and do fine. until i have to slow down really slow or stop and it does the same thing but after i let up on the gas a little it will shift and then it shifts on through. and the od light flashes and the 2wheel and 4 wheel lights will flash ,, can anyone tell me what the problem could be.
I will try doing what you have advised, and if not ask someone who knows how to. As you can see from my rpofile, I live in Mongolia, and ther are no ford dealers here, and no place to have our car checked. Therefore it was a big help, and will let you know as soon as I'll have progress.
Thanx again,
Ika
I am sure that Car Toys or some other stereo shop may have difficulties installing a deck into the factory spot since Ford uses such mammoth stock units and they would have to spend extra time on the install. A new wiring harness and customizing and Alpine or Kenwood to fit the vehicle would cost you a few extra bucks...
But why in the heck would you not be able to swap stock for stock???
I am starting to dread making the swap myself - if you find out more, please keep me posted!
I was going to say something about the Ford layoffs announced today due to sales being lower than expected, being due to the lack of quality than we have seen in these posts, such as the transmission problems, the engine problems, and the rear axle problems, but I won't.
passenger side front window regulator (according to the dealer) has failed and they wanted $462 parts and labor for it. does it sound too high? I did some research and found out the regulators go for about $85 to $160. Let's say if the dealer ordered the most expensive one, does it mean they're charging me almost 4 hours of labor?? is there any way i can search what is the standard labor time to do the job? i thought it should take no more than 2 hours.
E.D. ISF
First post, hopefully someone can help me figure this problem out. Thanks ahead of time for all those that post!
I've had several recent problems with my '02 Explorer. Items below are in order of fixed problems.
1.) Thermostat problem (replaced)
2.) Thermostat housing broke (unreplaceable gasket broke)- I replaced the whole unit and gaskets.
3.) Soon after, my water pump blew out. Replaced!
4.) A month later, I went to start the car and white smoke continually blew out the back!
I feared the worst but thankfully there's absolutely no water in the oil and vice versa. The coolant tank seems to be a little yellow maybe and smells a little like exhaust? And the exhaust obviously smells like its burning coolant.
So I just want to confirm my suspicions, does this mean my intake manifold may be cracked or is it just the gasket?
I'd like to get a little info before I dive in. Right before it started blowing smoke it seemed to be idling higher than usual....can anyone give me a little direction?
as for me, it's too late and I will learn my lesson on this one. and i should have thought of taking it to the body shop first.
Let us know how it turns out.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
My car never overheated, and never had such indication during the replacement of each of the parts. I pretty much eyeballed the parts and saw that they needed replacing due to their soon to be failure.
So is white smoke the only indicator for head gaskets or could it be something else? My dad's car blew white smoke like crazy out the rear one time while on the interstate and he found out that his thermostat was completely stuck and needed replacing. After that, it was fixed so could it be something else?
The car is at my house here and I really don't want to drive it to a shop, so I'll need to get a tester from a parts store it looks like?
Thanks again!
Let's proceed with some diagnostics. If your engine is burning coolant, then the coolant level must go down, you should be noticing the coolant level in the reservoir and or radiator going down. But if it's so bad that you can't drive the vehicle around, and the exhaust definitely has a strong smell of coolant, it is a very safe bet that coolant is getting into the engine combustion chamber. If you want to do further diagnostics before tearing into it, you will need more specialized tools. One easier way to test it is to pressurize each cylinder one at a time with air pressure, you need an air compressor, air hose and an adaptor to connect the air hose to the spark plug hole. Take the radiator cap OFF. You must bring the piston of the clyinder you wish to test to EXACTLY Top Dead Center of the compression stroke and pressurize the cylinder with at least 100 pounds of air pressure. Every thing must be clear of the engine, in case it spins. Once the cylinder is pressurized you will be able to see if any air escapes from the radiator cap opening, bubbles at the radiator cap or air leakage anywhere else. It is normal that a small amount of air leaks past the piston rings, which you will hear in the crankcase at the oil filler hole. Do that to each cylinder to see if you can find any leak between the combustion chambers and the cooling system. If you want to start tearing into it, you can start with removing the intake manifold to search for the leak, then proceed to removing the heads to check the head gaskets and the heads.
Let us know what you find.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Now I checked at the local autoshop and they said an entire gasket set (to do everything down to both head gaskets) would cost $226. I thought that was pretty reasonable for the set of gaskets as I'm sure labor would be astronomical. Any possible tips on a cheaper price?
Now, I've torn a DeLorean down to the bare frame and rebuilt it back to original condition but I've yet to do a head gasket set on any newer vehicles. Therefore, I need to know whether I should do it myself or not. I've torn apart plenty of engines to fix many things, just not head gaskets. To me, cars are really easy to work on, I really only need a good manual with all the torque specs to get around. Any help on where I could find such information for the 02' explorer XLT 4x4 with a v6 4.2L engine?
I really want to do it myself as it's what I always do, but I don't want to be stupid obviously. I figure I'll start at the intake manifold and inspect and work my way down. I really have nothing to lose but my time if I have the correct information (torque Specs) from a manual.
Thanks!
The subscription is about $24 a year and all the information you need is in there, and all up to date. You must buy a separate subscription for each vehicle. This would be your best bet for information. You can look up what you want and print out the pages, you don't have to worry about getting them greasy, because you can always print more.
$226 for an Upper Gasket set? I haven't bought one in a long time, but it still sounds steep to me. I would call around for that one.
One thing to check for is to be sure that all the gasket mating surfaces are smooth and FLAT. Get a big long flat file, a nice straight one, and carefully file across the flat gasket surfaces on the intake manifold and on the heads where the intakes bolt on and on the surfaces that bear on the cylinder block, look for any high spots. Also run the file over the flat surface of the cylinder block.
If you find the manifolds or head warped, best to take it to a machine shop. And while the heads are down there, have them check the manifolds and heads for any cracks. They have special equipment for that. They can find cracks that you can't see.
Here is a link to an interesting forum about the Ford 4.2 engine and the coolant leaks into the engine. It seems that there have been a lot of other people having the same problems and often the coolant leaks into the cylinder and hydro locks the engine, causing the engine to throw a rod. It' best you fix your coolant leak before you have a major problem like that!
http://forums.treemedia.com/fb/showthread.php?t=224&page=1&pp=15
Check it out.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
I think JC Whitney had the same price for the gasket set but it's for every gasket down to the head gaskets including the head gaskets. Hopefully this week I'll be able to start tackling this project.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
This has not fixed the problem. Disappointed to say the least yet as I try to figure this out I notice how flimsy the outside door latch feels on both car compared to the passenger side. There is not much if any tension. One of the service advisors indicated that we should fix the actuator before the "spring" went out. I wish that had been stressed initially because I feel its actually the latch mechanism which needs replacing. (Although in both the Haynes and Chi;ton manuals there is not a spring indicated in the illustrations) Has anyone had any experience like this because so far I am out $200 for the actautors, $60 for the heavy duty riveter and about several hours tracking down the riveter plus what I'll have to spend to buy the latches or other expenses. By the way the actuator seems OK since I put a battery on it and it pistons better than the one I took off. Next time I'll check the circuit first
Any and all advise at this point would be appreciated