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My wife and I just traded in our 200k camry for an 04 Highlander. We love the vehicle but are shocked at the resonance with 1 or 2 rear windows down or the moonroof open. We have kids in the back so it can be a problem. Has anyone tried to rectify it with rain gaurds on the windows or sunroof? if so how were the results? Thanks in advance, Ryan
The noise when you wind down a rear window without winding down a front one is a bit of a shock. Unfortunately, the only fix seems to be to make sure you wind a front window down first. Training the kids does not take long as they complain harder than the parents over the buffeting!
Cheers
Graham
Phil
We never use the moonroof and never lower the rear side windows, so it's been a non-issue for us.
Phil
1) Always lower the car ont axle stands and block the tires before you start. Jacks are for raising cars, not holding them in place while you work on them.
2) Always remove the slider pins and lubricate them using the appropriate lubricant. If they are rusty replace them. Dry or marginally rusty sliders will soon sieze. Siezed calipers cause rotor damage, shimmy and eventual brake failure.
3) Cross Drilled Roters (After Market) are great but they are directional so left and right matter.
4) If the brake pistons are too dificult to push back into their cylenders then they are siezed and need to be replaced.
5) Put a large gag under the master cylender before you start pushing pistons back. This will catch any overflow. Push one cylender back at a time then mount and appy the brakes. If you try to push back more than one piston at a time the master cylender can overfow.
6) Princess Auto sells a great tools for spreading calipers.
7) If you go to a garage, never let them machine your rotors. Machined rotors will warp on the next usage and need to be replaced.
8) Follow a heat break in procedure after installing new rotors. The break-in process is usually included in the box. It involves several repetitions of firm braking from 20 Kilometers to zero.
I thought it was the OEM tires, so I swapped them out with a set of Yokahama Geolanders HTS and didn't really see any difference other than the increased road noise.
So now I'm puzzled... is it the tires? the vehicle's torque?
Does anyone else experience this with their Highlander?
Thanks
-Kevin
- Over inflation of tires
- Siezed Rear brake caliper sliders or parking brakes
- Poor front wheel alignment
- Worn-out front suspension
Your car is old enough that I'd first check the rear brakes. Jack it up, block the tires, put it in neutral and hand turn the rear wheels. The V6 is powerful enough that it can drag around some seriously siezed calipers without a driver noticing too much.
Try rolling back your tire pressure. Check your driveway or parking lot for Oil patch conditions that could be contaminating the contact surface of your tires.
Next time, go for AWD. The fuel economy is virtually the same, steering is superior (with VCS Relay removed), tires last longer and stress on the drive train is roughly cut in half.
To #2 I would also add that the slider pin barrells/cylinders should also be cleaned thoroughly.
I would also suggest that for most of us cross-drilled or slotted rotors are a waste of money and the majority of the time a detriment to braking, loss of CSA frictional surface.
#4 "..pistons are too difficult.." Hard to qualify "too difficult" absent personal experience.
To #7 I would add ONLY allow the rotors to be turned/machined if it can be shown that it is truly required using a micrometer.
There must be something wrong with yours if you are having traction problems. Get the steering, suspension, brakes, tires & wheels checked.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
TC should INSTANTLY activate, braking the spinning wheel(s) and dethrottling the engine just as soon as front wheelspin/slip is detected.
Send to: karen@edmunds.com
we have a 04 highlander, we are getting clear water coming in car from several areas. first seen running from pass. side panel pooling on floor by pass. seat. have same problem on driver side and in the back seat area also.any suggestions...please...my husband thinks I am imagining it!! I have over 100,000
thanks, red
Often it is just a matter of resecuring the heat shield with a replacement screw, muffler clamp or hose clamp. Go for a free muffler inspection somewhere and ask them to check for a loose heat shield.
Naturally the heat shiled can also be replaced if it is in really bad condition.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Anyone know for sure which direction the air flows thru the filter?
I live in the country and had a terrible time with rodents entering through that port then chewing and nesting on the cabin filter. I had to install a wire mesh over the port, which wasn't easy.
New valve covers were put on the engine (~$750 as I recall) and this has fixed the problem.
I'll be honest right now I use my iPhone 4S most of the time for navigation. I feel that it updated more regularly than navigation systems I could buy. I just wish I could mount it somewhere where I can see it better....vent mount, etc....
I took off the cowl panel at the base of the windshield and bent my arm in awkward ways to press the course screening (1/4" square holes stuff... don't know what it's actually called) over the intake port. That port is under a non-removable piece of sheetmetal.
Then, with the fan motor and cabin filter removed I put finger gobs of silicone up to "glue" the screen to the cowl from the inside.
I resisted the temptation of removing that section of sheet metal that was in the way.
Phil
Thanks,
Jonas (2001 Ltd (For Sale!))
Replaced with RX450H
Insofar as I am aware the adoption of hydraulic valve lifters eliminated that requirement many years ago, like, back in the 80's.
I wanted to trade it when we purchased a Lexus RX450H, but the salesman said "don't do that, you'll be leaving thousands on the table. You can sell that car in a weekend!" Ha!
So, I put in on Craigslist, cars.com, autotrader.com, and kbb, plus talked it up with friends and acquaintances, put up flyers at work, and took it to CarMax for a reality check. Now asking 9999, in the middle of those available.
No private party interest after more than a month.
Here are the online value estimates for private party sale, 2001 Ltd 4wd V6, ~105K, loaded, good to excellent condition.
NADA - 11,475
KBB - 9962
Edmunds - 8465
Notice there is a HUGE difference. I have always tracked my vehicle's values on NADA, since I think/thought that's the source banks use for loan limits. I'll have to rethink that.
Trade-in values
NADA - 8875
KBB - 8142
Edmunds - 7456
Notice the NADA Trade-in is higher than the Edmunds retail! Something's wrong here.
CarMax offered 6500.
So I'm probably going to get 8250 for it from a friend.
Beware!
Jonas
No way would I pay $8 for it unless it's super maintained in a rust-free climate and I wouldn't mind eating off the engine.
Keep in mind that online ads never show you what cars are "going for." They show very precisely what they are NOT going for... ebay's completed auctions can be helpful, though.
What was the dealer offering you? It appears that your salesman saw trouble looming over the trade-in value, so he sent you on your way. OTOH, if he offer $6,500 -- CarMax tends to be high -- then you're still clearing around $1,500, give or take depending on your tax laws.
I'm not sure what your boeuf is...?
Cheers -Mathias
I did a search on Autotrader and plugged in all the modifiers for your truck and found 172 examples nationwide, from dealers, private party, etc and came up with an average "asking price" of $9250---and since "asking" is always bargained, the $8500 number is looking very accurate to me.
I'd take your friend's offer and be happy at this point unless you want to hold out for another couple hundred bucks.
Well, there's your problem. Ain't no such thing as a good-to-excellent car with over 100k miles. It is average. The end.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Sure, that's what I heard from my banker friend when I bought my Outback from her.
I pointed out that her asking price was high because the more the bank can loan out the more money the bank can make. And I've always heard that NADA caters to banks so they can "inflate" their loans. Ditto state taxing authorities.
I paid closer to True Market Value for it after that conversation. No calls in a month tells me that you are priced too high for your market.
any and all help will be appreciated!
After much investigation I found it to be the rubber gasket on the lip of the hood directly above the grill.
The way the HL is designed, when you go to open the hood to release the secondary hood lock you naturally stick your left hand under the hood to lift it to release the secondary latch with your right hand. By doing this over time the rubber gasket in this area comes loose because there is a plastic clip in the underside of the hood that comes undone. I pushed it back in and the noise went away. The analogy here is like blowing air between a blade of grass in your fingers, The resonance point is between 40-45 MPH. To help ensure a good seal, I added a piece of foam weather stripping (black) 7/16" x 3/4" on the top of the grill between the grill and the gasket on the underside of the hood.This makes a better seal in this area. Nice and quiet (and now so is my wife!!!) :rofl2:
Also, any one know why Toyota would put a 6 speed A/T in the 4 cyl and downgrade to the 5 speed for the 6 cyl. Doesn't make sense. Thanks....