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this time and will see what they can do about the breaks because I just hate it when I have to push on the pedal all the way just to make the car stop.
I have a 02'Limited with the spoiler, tow prep package, but no hitch. I bought the Performance "XPORT" factory rack kit for $140.00 and its worked great. They are two fork mount bike carriers that attach to the crossbars on the roof rack. Granted, you have to open the back doors and stand on the door sills to get the bikes in the rack, but once you've done it a few times it's pretty easy. Without a tow hitch you don't have many options, but at least you can see more easily out the back window, you access to the cargo area without having to remove the bike rack (some racks have a feature to provide access) and the cost is pretty cheap. Just remember to take the bikes off the rack before you drive into the garage.
Just want to know is there any benefit to have VSC on a 2WD model?
Looks like only AWD model has it.
Thanks.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
http://www.alldata.com/recalls/index.html
http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/problems/tsb/service1.cfm?SearchTopic=Vehicle
http://www.edmunds.com/products/maintguide/index.html?ID=lin1038
Hopefully one day soon, Edmunds' will get their search feature running. ;-)
Maybe the noise was in my head since I had read about the TSB earlier. Anyone have this problem on 2002s?
Thanks for the info on the bike rack. I'll look into your suggestion.
Did you go with the same width wheel and offset?
Thought you might want top see some reviews of the Pirelli's http://www.tirerack.com/survey/SurveyComments.jsp?additionalReviews=y&tireMake=Pirelli&tireModel=Scorpion+S%2FT
Did it, it works.
And do not be conned into thinking the dealer is the only source of a warranty for a HL. Just as you can go get the crummy standard sound system replaced at the stereo shop down the street, you can shop at another dealer or on the net for a perfectly good extended warranty. Toyota does not sell extended warranties, so the dealer has to get them the same place as the rest of us. Then he marks it up big time and gives you "peace of mind" on your way out the door.
Go to a good search engine, type in "extended auto warranty" (use the quote marks, too, to keep the search focused) and have fun seeing how much you can save.
And don't rush. The warranty does not kick in until the factory warranty cuts out, so you can buy it later, any time before the car is out of warranty.
A dealer I know says he makes more profit per car on the things he sells WITH the car (alarms, warranties, Scotchgard, etc.) as he does on the car itself. If you like paying full retail and do not want to trouble yourself with haggling or shopping around, then go ahead and pay their $1700 asking price on the warranty. Most people do and never worry about it. They feel so good about the "deal" they just got 10 minutes ago on the vehicle they let their guard down when they sit down with the closing agent and get hosed.
Pay the dealer a reasonable amount over his cost (they are indeed offering you the value of one-stop shopping) to save money or shop elsewhere direct for a warranty and save more money. There are choices if you know about them.
Happy warranty hunting.
Toyota doesn't sell extended warranties.
Since when?
(I think someone's been misinformed )
Steve
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http://www.toyotawarranty.com/
And, yes, these are TOYOTA US warranties, not third party. Though I usually do not buy extended warranties with the new purchase, I did on our '01 HL as it was a brand new model and I was willing to spend a little extra for the assurance.
I replaced the OEM tire for $120 at Sears, installed, balanced, everything except putting it back in the storage space.
They offered the discounted price (which was still profitable for them) up front. I didn't buy at the time I got the car and they honored the original quote 7 months later.
The reasons for the extended warranty...bought an '01 so it was a first-year product and then the engine sludge issue put me over the top. Otherwise I would have reasonably expected the reliability I got from my Camry 222k+ and still ran great.
Haven't you heard that Toyota already extended the warranty on the engine in case of oil jelling as they call it? 7 years/100,000 miles I think.
Thanks! I'll give Sears a try. Actually, I wasn't planning on putting the jack back in its cradle at all. My problem was getting it cranked down to get it out. Basically ended up just yanking it out. The most difficult part of the job shouldn't be removing the jack. Perhaps I should have said the jack was too secure if you know what I mean. A better idea for securing the jack in place is needed. Perhaps something like the knob screw that holds the spare tire in place.
I'm no electrician, but can't imagine it would be too tough for Toyota to throw a 3 prong outlet somewhere on the dash, and one in the cargo area.
I am an EE and programmer by profession, so the electrical system is what fascinates me most about cars. Adding an AC outlet (power inverter) is relatively simple for low wattage applications. For high power consumption applications things get large and expensive. I actually own two, a low power one that plugs into the DC port and a high power one that attaches directly to the battery. In my opinion Tripplite makes the best ones.
http://www.tripplite.com/products/inverters/index.cfm
Below is where I purchased mine.
http://www.pagecomputers.com/cgi-bin/page/index2.html
p.s. Cliffy, you're great. I know of you long time ago (with Diane@CarsonToyota, but unfortunately, she left the forum).
Steve
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I think it's 48 volts, but I am not sure, fuel cell/hybrids is not my field. Simply being able to use cheaper smaller gauge or lower current capacity wire is what I would think is the main benefit no matter what you're powering.
According to KBB, the invoice is about $31,000
When I offer a dealer $1,000 over invoice - they said there was dealer hold back of $600, Advertizing of $500, and some finance of about $300. Thats another $1400 I didn't account for.
Did anyone else pay these charges ?
Thanks for any advice
I do want to correct one thing though. Toyota does, in fact sell warranties. They can only be purchased through Toyota dealers. This means that a consumer can shop for a warranty just like he does for the car. The warranty and the car need not be purchased at the same place.
dealer's invoice. Why are they trying to add it in again? Something's fishy.
Here goes... Invoice is invoice. Invoice is not cost. Invoice has four things built into it that are not directly paying for equipment or features. Those things are holdback, financial reserve, freight and advertising.
Holdback has nothing to do with the amount of time we have the car. Holdback is an amount that is part of the invoice which we are refunded at the end of each quarter. Very few managers and even fewer salesmen are paid on this amount. The invoice price you see here at Edmunds includes HB, although some dealers will try to obfuscate this fact and that is wrong.
Financial reserve is similar to holdback. The difference is, this money is set aside to assist the dealership in paying its floorplan interest. Most dealers do not own the cars on the lot. We pay interest to a bank which is called floorplan money. The longer a car sits on the lot, the more floorplan money stacks up. From a dealer perspective, we don't look at individual floorplan expenses but rather, average floorplan expenses. If we move our inventory in an average of 30 days, we are in good shape. If you buy a "fresh" car, it means you passed up one that was stacking up that money.
Freight is what we pay to get the cars here. It is the same on the invoice as it is on the sticker.
Advertising is a non-refunded fee that the dealers pay to Toyota. The money is used for regional advertising campaigns and rebate programs. It is part of the invoice and the money is not returned to the dealership in any direct manner. This figure is the only one NOT included in the Edmunds invoice guide. They do however warn you that it exists. The figure varies by region and can be as low as a flat $200 to 2.3% of base invoice.
What does all this means? Not a whole lot. Invoice is still invoice and if you are talking to a dealership about invoice, he is not talking about net cost. Net costs takes invoice and deducts the HB and finance reserve but then adds back in average floorplan expenses for the month, average dealership advertising, salesman's commissions, manager's salaries, property taxes, utilities, paying the clean-up department, title clerk, administrative department and a host of other variable expenses that a consumers has no business delving into.
Gross cost is invoice. From the consumer's point of view, invoice is nothing more than a reference point. If you can get a car for $500 over invoice at one store and $800 at another, you know where the best deal is. In most stores, the salesman is paid a percentage of the amount he sells it for over the invoice.
Whew...
Actually - it wasn't me who invoked your name...it was cmuniz in post 6399.
I have managed to find a deal about $900 over KKB invoice.
Thanks
Steve
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I want to remove that console and put in a 2002 model console...I know that there may be holes in the carpet....
Has anyone done this in Los Angeles?
A local dealership has declined to do it?