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Comments
The V6 that Nissan builds is about bullet proof and when you desire in a racey manner it is alot of fun.
But, as previously mentioned (and proven by other Altima owners), the $3-4 you save running regular will be wasted by the 2-4 MPG LOSS, as well as any potential long-term engine repairs needed due to a diet of strictly regular gas.
There's a reason why Nissan recommends premium, and it's NOT to line the pockets of the oil companies. "Bulletproof" or not, the V6 is specifically tuned to run premium, and NOT just for the "racetrack".
But if you drive 30K miles per year, I'd recommend the 4-cylinder. With the 6-speed manual, I tend to average 31-32 MPG, with occasion to reach 34 MPG on all-highway trips (and easily cresting the 600-mile-per-tank mark). All on regular gas, with plenty of power for merging on the highway or passing on a two-lane. When (not if) gas crests the $5 per gallon mark, you'll have a few extra $$$ to actually put food on the table.
As for gas, here in SC premium is about 18-28 cents more per gallon. Unless you drive tons of miles per yesr, the difference in savings by using regular isn't very large, viewing the big picture. However, if its just your "hot button" issue, then I suggest you run regular and a tank of premium every 4th or 5th gas up...
Don't play the fear card unless it can be backed up. Unless the manaul says do not use less and XX octane, no damage can occur.
That being said, I agree that if you're concerned about fuel costs, why buy a V6? Get the 2.5 4 cylinder. It's a real overachiever of a motor. It's a longstroke design with great bottom end, but still breaths well at higher RPM's... even if it is a little noisy up there.
With gas likely to reach $4 this year and well over $5, $6 or higher over the life of the vehicle, is getting a V6 really the best decision? What will the resale of a "gas guzzling" V6 be 5 years from now if gas is $6/ gallon and most cars with similar performance manage closer to 30 mpg instead of 23mpg that the V6 gets in most tests and the 26mpg that the 2.5 manages.
Like you, I have run regular gas in vehicles stating "use premium fuel only" (Mini Cooper, Harley Davidson bikes, etc)., and never had an issue. It may have affected the mileage and performance, but I didn't notice any MPG reduction (wasn't really looking, to be honest), and I don't drive that close to the "edge", so I didn't see any performance reduction.
But, each to his own, I guess...
I only drive around 12-13k per year though, if I would driving 30k a year I'd buy the 4 banger no question.
a wives tale. the fact is, all high compression engines are susceptible to preignition of fuel in the combustion chamber. a higher octane fuel with a lower anti knock index (AKI) will prevent it. Knock, ping, run-on, performance and other things depend on a lot of factors, but for high compression engines, ie high performance, the biggest one is the quality of the fuel.
It's really kind of simple, your not going to ruin your car by running cheap gas in it, though you will likely cause the formation of deposits on your valves and other parts and reduce performance and millage. But, buying a performance version of a car (which is all the V-6 variants are) and then putting cheap gas in it to save $4 per tank is like putting ketchup on prime rib instead of steak sauce cause its cheaper.
Also remember that typically, ALL gasoline comes from a regional distribution point. This gasoline comes by pipline from any number of different refineries. The tanker truck for that typical brand, dumps in a small barrell of their partcular additive formula and fills it up. Similarly to help understand oil prices, there in no direct link from the oil drilling ot the refinery. A Shell oil rig will fill an ocean tanker which unloads to a pipeline or storage facility. The refinery buys whatever grade crude oil they need on the open market. The exploration, drilling, ocen transport, storage, refining, storage, transport by truck and service station are all related, but indirectly linked.
So buy fule wherever you want, the only difference is the additive package they toss in there (a minimum amount of detergents are required by law) and how rapidly that particular station turns over their tanks and how well they maintain their equipment.
For octane, just check the manual. Most cars that recommend premium will also state than regular 87 octane is acceptable and will only results in reduced performance and possible reduced mileage in some cases. I beleive Toyotas 2.5L V6 is this way. My BMW motorcycle states the rated engine HP output for both 91 octane and 89 octane.
Higher octane gasolines burn slower, their flame propagation is slowed down compared to lower octanes. This was required on older engines which were used at high RPMs and high power duty applicatons. Those application required much timing advance at higher RPMs and loads and thus, a slower burning fuel.
Most drivers that I know never exceed 3 - 3500 RPMs during their whole lives of driving. For such drivers the 87 octane should be perfectly sufficient and, since for such driving slower flame propagation is not an issue, the gas mileage should not be effected. For those who like to run up to the redline and do hard uphill, high RPM pulls, the premium gas brings higher performance and, at those RPMs and loads you could possibly see the gas mileage adversely effected. But, when your foot is on the floor at 6K RPM, is it really an issue to consider fuel economy? You are probably running way below 10 MPG under such driving conditions.
For me, when I drive my wife's '07 3.5 SE on our home, winding, hilly Sierra roads, we fill up with premium. But, then again, I drive at redline much having decades of track racing experience. When she is doing her normal driving patterns, (never exceeding 3K RPM) we're using regular. Anything else would be wasted money for her driving conditions.
Thank you,
Jeff
When I took it to the dealer, they didn't find anything wrong with it. I asked them to call head office to inquire and to my surprise they called me back to re-check the seats. They found the problem. It was very simple, at least for my car. There was a screw that was protruding and getting in the way of the track. All they had to do was screw it down all the way. As simple as that.
Have them check this.
Good luck!
And I think the buttons are backwards. IMO the lock should be on the bottom of the button and unlock on top - but it's the other way around. (If I recall correctly.)
Not a big deal, but just kinda weird.
The other thing that REALLY bothers me, is the power points. The one in the front dash only works when the car is running, where as the one that's tucked away in the console works all the time. It makes it hard to just leave your cell phone or whatever plugged in to charge because you can't plug it in a handy spot.
Has anyone else noticed that?
But, don't worry about a rebuilt engine, they're fine. I don't know how much you know about cars, but when they replace your engine, they're only talking about the actual engine block, and all the internally lubricated parts. the engine block is just a big hunk of hollowed out cast iron. thats why they reuse them, unless of course it's been cracked or scored or something. But in that case they wouldn't be rebuilding it anyway.
No "bug" at all, it's by design.
All Altima's are like this, even ones on the showroom floor.
The dealership was quick to warn me that if a stone hit a component of the AC that it would not be covered by the warranty. Of course, I'm very upset that I have this problem only two years into owning the car. I maintain my car at the dealership and I will be devastated if this is a non-warranty issue.
Am I the only one experiencing this problem?
I took the car in today for a 2nd inspection and again they could not find the leak. The tech believes that since the leak appears minor, that it may have started from day one and that it may well be a seal. I have to keep driving the car and taking it in for further checks until the leak finally appears.
Grrrrrrrrr!
Now, I am thinking of trading it for Nissan Altima 2007 4 cyl.
I know these 2 cars are in dirrerent categories, but still - do you think this would be a good trade ?
Will Nissan Altima 2007 be as durable as the Civic 2007 in a long term ?
I plan (if I do the switch) to keep the Nissan Altima for 10 years .
I had nothing but troubles and expensive repairs.
It got to the point where my wife gave me an ultimatum - " either me or car that does not brake every month ..."
My worst memories are with Ford Aerostar minivan. Nightmare.
But the Dodger Caravan was not far behind. I replaced 3 transmissions on the poor Dodge. or poor me ....
I do not mind to buy a Ford Focus if I know that it will be as reliable as the Honda Civic or perhaps Nissan Altima.
What do you drive ?
I have an '07 and love it. Yes, I had an issue with the AC but it was fixed immediately and everything else on the car is PERFECT. I also get great mileage.
Let's keep an open mind here, there are lemons in all car makes. I had a Pontiac Grand Am for 12 years and had a few problems during that time but generally speaking the domestic brand was good to me, no major dollars spent. Others who've owned a Grand Am had numerous problems so to assume that ALL Altimas are garbage is an unfair comment.
I did my homework for a long time before I gave up my 12 year old Pontiac Grand Am to buy the import and I'm thoroughly please with my Altima. It's fun to drive, it feels safe and I know it will last a long, long time!!!
I was going to buy a Maxima until I discovered this. I don't need that additional expense on the price of the car. Stay away from the 3.5L Nissan engine!