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regards,
Orgasmatron
Regards,
Dusty
regards,
orgasmatron
regards,
orgasmatron
I'm going to say that your HVAC problems are unrelated since the blend and mode doors in the heater housing are operated by stepper motors. However, a vacuum leak could influence engine performance and affect shift quality.
Regards,
Dusty
Thanks,
Scott
On a vacation when driving along in cruise (flat) it dropped out of cruise and turned on engine light. Got to an Advance and the code (don't remember #) was something about TPS. I had a bad TPS 2 yr. prior so I thought no big deal this will fix it. (but this one didn't cause RPM changes prior, etc. basically no warning).
Put in new TPS went home, everything was OK.
Now it has trouble going, particularly 35-55. Seems like not getting fuel (but see no drops in RPM). Almost could be desribed as a shudder at times, other times like something is holding it back. Easier to feel with OD off, and seems a little worse when hotter outside.
Transmission fluid is OK, has been serviced 5 times (in 146,xxx). Always ATF+3, last service added 7.5 qts. ATF+4. Never flush, just drain and filters.
Other weird thing, I put old TPS back in, returned new one and old one is not throwing a code. I don't think this time the TPS was bad, but why the code?
I have read all posts here and nothing like mine, done tons of research (even found complete 45RFE manual online).
There are just too many electronic sensors that could cause issues (maybe it is torque converter)? But I never see RPMs change. I can hit brake slightly at 45 and see RPM go up (unlocking torque converter).
Currently no codes at all, but runs poorly. Idles fine, lower speeds are fine, just when to 30 (or 35) to 55 (or 60). Above that it doesn't run too bad.
These require a re-flash at the dealer.
Since I have a 2000 45RFE, I'm sure that there has been an update.
Can I take it to the dealer and get it flashed for free? Should be just like an update to your trusty Microsoft Operating system.
Just like my wife's Stratus that at 1000 miles downshifted so hard that the tires almost locked up. I guess it "learned" the wrong thing. Took it back for a re-flash.
I don't want to spend $60 here, $120 there, on and on, for it to simply be a programming issue.
Regards,
Dusty
Check the transmission Throttle Cable. If sticking it can cause most of your issues.
The reverse problem could be something more serious. If this transmission has not been serviced I would suggest pulling the pan and checking for debris. It could be that the filter is very dirty and not providing enough pressure or someone used Dexron-Mercon ATF at one time.
DO NOT USE DEXRON-MERCON ATF IN ANY DODGE TRUCK. USE ONLY CHRYSLER ATF+3 or ATF+4.
Best regards,
Dusty
You've done a good job providing a symptom description, but it's kind of hard to say. I'm thinking you have more of a engine performance problem at this point. The transmission seems to be working okay.
Regards,
Dusty
Thanks for the info. Also I do not know if this is any indication of transmission problems, but it must be in nuetral on the dash indicator to be in drive, when you put it in drive it is in second, and reverse is close to park on the dash indicator. Also if it does need a complete overhaul, what do you think would be a fair price?
Thanks,
Scott
When coming to a stop the truck will downshift until it gets to 2nd and then thats where the shifting stops. When resuming motion, if you go slow enough it will drop down into first again and then shift up.
Also when it does seem to be running fine it starts acting strange in the 50 to 60 mile an hour range. Its a constant up and down shift.
At first I was thinking it was a fluid issue we serviced the tranny immediately and that did not make any difference.
Anything I can check myself without spending an arm and a leg at a dealership on? Or am I doomed to spend 100 bucks an hour on it?
Any help would be great, thanks
Could the signal gotten lost from the PCM?for both the trans and the A/C ? Any help would be great as I'm at a lost now.
Mike
I did all work, used ATF+3, probably should have gone to dealer to get ATF+4, but used Valvoline +4 (7.5 qt. needed after drain) on last change with new filters.
Went 500 miles or so this weekend, no real change, ran Lucas fuel cleaner through it. Seems to run better when cooler (in early morning than when hot, 95 or so yesterday, plus towing trailer w/ ATV). Not extremely bad symptoms, just don't want to go at times, have to put the peddle down a little more, like a brake dragging or something, but don't feel rough (not a noticeable misfire).
I'm inclined to believe you about it being engine, if a tranny problem, I'd think I'd get a code or something, or it would get worse quickly. I'm still thinking fuel delivery.
I'll get the new plugs in and keep at it.
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
thanks
Thanks for all your help so far, but I think that my problems may run deeper than the trans. I have been having other strange issues with the truck...all seem to be electronic related. I just had my mechanic try to scan the computer and it would not let him in. He tells me that if the vehicle was improperly boosted, it could have burned the PCM, and given all the other things that it has been doing, he is pretty sure that is what has happened. Also, if I run a VIN search it comes back as an '02 SLT, and I have it registered as and '02 SPORT (which is how it is trimmed out). Computer might not be correct? Or screwed? How does one go about checking if the computer in the truck is the correct one, or if it has been changed? Any help would be great...thanks, Dusty!
regards,
orgasmatron
Regards,
Dusty
regards,
orgasmatron
regards,
orgasmatron
Unfortunately, there are cases where someone has obtained a used PCM and installed it into another vehicle without reprogramming. This has been known to cause recurring Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) or random faults.
Regards,
Dusty
Hey, I really appreciate all your help on this one, Dusty. You are indeed the god of all things Dakota!
regards,
orgasmatron
2002 dakota mike
regards,
orgasmatron
mike
As many know in the Dakota forum, the Throttle Position Sensor causes a number of often unrelated problems, but is very often associated with shifting issues. Unfortunately there's not a good way to check the component itself with any commonly available diagnostic equipment.
Fortunately, Mopars have the advantage over other makes in providing a fault read-out on the instrument panel. But this is a limited diagnostic tool. The OBD2 or OBD3 Scan Tools are extremely useful, but are unavailable to most.
I hate to recommend throwing parts at a problem, especially since I once worked in the automobile repair business and know how this destroys confidence and alienates people. The Throttle Position Sensor is probably the one item that could be recommended since it causes so many different problems and the cost is relatively low for a do-it-yourselfer.
Glad to hear this solved your problem. Mine is six years old and at 86,000 miles. I'm probably about due myself.
Best regards,
Dusty
You are correct in saying that the TPS is a common failure item for Daks. It is also trivial to R&R.
The TPS can pretty easilly be diagnosed using an ohmmeter. There are several websites that discuss the prodedure and even give some allowable paramators for measured values.
The TPS does not even have to be installed in the vehicle to perform the basic measurements.
BTW: The shifting of my manual xmission has NEVER been affected by the TPS.... LOL
You're correct if the TPS is bad enough. I've worked on three Daks that I could not determine had bad TPSs by using a DVM. However, I will admit that an old fashioned analog VOM would be a better instrument for "seeing" a spotty potentiometer across its range. I'm kind of sorry I gave away off my old Weston analog. It was big and clunky but darn rugged and reliable.
Then again, I sort of miss the filament glow of a pair of 6146s, too!
Yeah, you manual tranny guys miss out on all of the quirky shifting problems of an automatic Dak when the TPS starts going bad, but then again we know there's a TPS problem a little sooner!!
Bests,
Dusty
Yup, some trees have already started to turn. I am not ready for the snow to fly... but it is coming all too soon.
I too liked the old analog meters with mirrored anti-parralax display for increased reading accuracy. I liked the Simpson meters which are still the very best at measruing the kinds of trends you spoke of. But at $250 each... I sure wish I still had my old Simpson because I cannot afford a new one.
My Fluke DVOM also has analog display and peak-hold which, if used correctly, can detect flaky poteteometers (even the TPS wired as a rheostat configuration)
... and you might be happy to know that vacuum-tubes are STILL considerd the very best way to amplify a guitar. The worlds finest guitar amps use overdriven tubes to get their world-renound "tone". As you may be aware, a vacuum-tube is a "voltage" amplifier while most solid-state devices are "current" amplifiers. Even the top-capped 6146 has been used in famous guitar amps. (even though the 6146 is designed to be an RF amp)
The temperature dropped to the low 50s here in Rochester, New York overnight, and I detected a slight hesitation in the old 4.7 when I first stepped on the accelerator pedal this morning. I also noticed a very slight bump-shift, the first I've ever detected. So I think coincidence might be striking. At nearly 87K and six years old I think I'm going to be replacing my first TPS on my own Dak.
Start bringing the firewood in!
Best regards,
Dusty
In any case, the built-in diagnostics are sensing a leak in the airspace above the gasoline in the tank. This diagnostic is performed by slightly pressurizing this airspace and then sealing it off and testing to make sure the pressure stays.
Also check all 3 hoses are plugged into the charcoal canister. (mounted below the drivers door on inside of framerail)
THANX!
mike
--jjf
Hey...looking at a 1992 ClubCab LS,with 180K miles. Intermitten issue with 2nd-3rd shift. It's an auto. Trans shop of course wants to consider overhaul...2k-3k...OUCH!!-if full tanny service doesn't do the job. Owner does'nt seem to be the 'regular service my truck' kind of guy. It's a 4x4. $1500 too much for it???? Wish it was a 2wd with that motor.. Original paint/decent cond/everything else works fine...What do you all think????
THANX!
Thanks
Robert
AS FOR THE TRANNY FLUSH I AGREE THAT IT COULD BRING PROBLEMS IF ONE HAS NOT BEEN DONE BEFORE WITH THAT MANY MILES, GOOD LUCK.