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Pontiac Grand Am Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • botdriverbotdriver Posts: 1
    Check the fuel pressure regulator valve on fuel rail 30 min to 1 hour to replace
    $68.00 for new regulator, if not look for fuel leaks on hoses.
  • loveskissloveskiss Posts: 2
    A couple weeks ago my car (which I purchased last month) made a weird noise, almost like a growl when I shut it off. The next time I tried to start it, it wouldn't start, and the "dinger" and the radio just kinda died out. The radio faded like someone just turned it down real slow, and the "dinger" started to flutter. After 2 attempts, it finally started. Then about a week later, I was driving on the highway, and the gauges all went down to 0 like the car was shut off, but then picked right back up. Nothing happened, just the gauges dropping. Now it usually takes two tries before the car will start. I have heard people say to check the volts on the battery, but the battery is new, we replaced it the day after we bought it, because it drained. Two days after we bought the car, it wouldn't start, and we didn't get to drive it for about a week, then someone recommended putting fuel injector cleaner in the gas, and that seemed to work. Now I am having this problem. Someone said that it could be the spark plugs? Any truth to that?? I don't know alot about cars, and neither does my husband. If you can think of anything, please email me at [email protected]
  • The wire was genius. It worked out great.
    For the next person, when I was installing the back screw, I used needle nose pliers to start the first couple of threads.
  • anitaaanitaa Posts: 6
    i have a 99 grandam and i'm having problem starting it until i wait for the fuel pump to come on and go off
    would it be the fuel filter , fuel pump, it runs good
  • Does this happen only when it's hot? If so, then it sounds like the symptoms I've heard attributed to vapor lock. This is when the gas in the fuel line gets so hot it leaves air pockets that have to be purged before it will start. Unless you can see that a fuel line has been routed incorrectly (too close to something hot), then I don't know how to correct this problem. Please let us know how it turns out.
  • creed76creed76 Posts: 1
    I just recently purchased this car less than a week ago. I filled the gas tank 180 miles ago now the fuel gauge is not reading correctly. One time I look down and it is on 3/4 of a tank and then I look down again and it is on 1/2 and its on full? Any suggestion? PLEASE HELP!
  • I had the EXACT same problem with my car... I don't know what causes it (if you find out please let me know: [email protected] ) However, when my gas guage should have been on "E" it was reading on full. I kept driving it anyway, knowing it was almost out of gas, and once it got down past "E", the gas light came on and the guage dropped down to where it was supposed to be. I filled it with gas, and I haven't had the same problem since. Hope it doesn't happen again... It sucks when you have that kind of problem!
  • My 2000 Grand Am GT had the same problem. The turn signals would work most of the time then they would not. If you pushed the hazard light switch then the turn signals would work again. I replaced the flasher unit for $25. Easy to fix.
  • I have a bit of a lifter tap when the engine is cold, but haven't found any aftermarket cams / lifters for the 3.1V6. Does anyone out there know if these parts exist?
  • 99 Grand Am SE is putering very loudly especailly while breaking.
  • The 99 thru 04 series employs a worm expanding strut driven by a nylon gear at one end that is powered by a small Fasco electric motor. Most any other manufacturer but Government Motors would make both the strut and motor available as individual service replacement parts. With GM, however, you must pay over $330 for a complete replacement seat frame with motor and strut included. It's outright gouging and it's ridiculous! The nylon gear at the end of the strut either cracks or suffers tooth shearing, whether from age deterioration of the nylon material or overuse/abuse of the power system, much like Ford power windows. Replacing the strut assembly with nylon gear seems the practical solution but GM does not provide that option. It's either live with whatever height the seat is at when the gear cracks or shears, or shell out the $330 plus labor for the sake of a 50-cent piece of nylon attached to a ten dollar worm strut! There are tens of thousands of Grand Ams with broken driver's seats desperately seeking an affordable height adjustment fix. Does anybody know of any aftermarket source for a replacement strut with nylon gear assembly?
  • You bought a car with power seat adjusters, and then have the audacity to complain about a $330 part? These forums are meant for do-it-yourselfers.... people who are frugal enough and innovative enough to MAKE their own parts to save some money.
  • OK, Hotshot. If you "loveyourgrandam" as much as your name boasts, you'll know that the power seat elevator was the only form of vertical height adjustment available and only for the driver's seat -- it's just the way they came; period!
    You'll also know that, with the seat down, a short person cannot easily see over the dash whereas, with the seat up, a tall person must live with their head brushing the inside of the roof. So the seat elevation system, while poorly and weakly designed, becomes more or less a necessity, especially where taller and shorter spouses share the vehicle as in my case.
    You'll also know that the nylon driven gear at the end of the worm strut is molded right onto the end of the strut and cannot be welded as could steel to effect a repair. Moreover, you have absolutely no clue as to the extent of my frugality or willingness and experience in doing most everything myself, due both to financial necessity and the fact that I actually enjoy the challenge of improvisation as far as humanly possible.
    You'll also know that the OEM strut probably cost less than $10 to manufacture in quantity but, if it were available as a service item, might actually retail for as much as $50. A significant amount for a small part but nevertheless a far cry from $330 plus that Government Motors wants.
    So here's my challenge to you, Hotshot:---
    If you think yourself so great that you can fabricate a serviceable and reliable replacement worm strut, using materials of your own choosing, I'll gladly pay you double the $50 for one; that's a $100 offer made publicly in an open forum. Moreover, if your prototype looks good and actually works, I'll pay you $100 each for two more of the same. Heck, given the need and potential demand for these struts, you might even be able to parlay your skills, if they exist, into a profitable sideline business supplying thousands of do-it-youselfers like me who are willing and able to handle the disassembly and reassembly labor.
    So, unless you have some constructive advice as to how someone with a moderate amount of mechanical expertise might go about a practical but functional repair with a reasonable materials outlay and within a reasonable amount of time expended, I respectfully suggest that you either put up of shut up. Puerile and negative attacks such as yours do nothing to enhance the camaraderie that forums such as this attempt to bring to the community of real Grand Am lovers, even though most of us have been screwed by GM in one way or another.
  • anitaaanitaa Posts: 6
    no it does it any time,,,, and now i smell a bad odor and its started smoking and service engine lights came on could it be catalytic converter
  • Since "lovemygrandam" did not accept the challenge to "put up", it looks as if "shut up" proved to be the more gracious option with nothing constructive to say.
  • i am buying this 99 grand am from car lot .. and after few months the low track light came on ..then off track .. i replaced the front breaks few weeks ago .. what is the off track pease help .. :confuse: :confuse:
  • I'm sorry that I was mis-informed about the power seat option. My 2002 Grand Am SE does not have power seats, nor does it have power seat height adjustment. My driver's seat height adjusts with a manual knob on the outside of the seat. I would suggest you take a look at a service manual, and see if you could possibly substitute the manual seat height adjustment mechanism for the one in your car. I was not aware that there were models that did not offer manual seat height adjustment. At any rate, I do apologize for my lack of correct information regarding this problem.
  • bjh1bjh1 Posts: 1
    I am looking for information from anyone who may have experienced clutch problems with their Grand Am. The clutch will sometimes stay to the floor after a few minutes of driving...We have thus far replaced the Master Clutch Cylinder. And the shifing rod...it seems like the clutch can't hold pressure after a few shifts. We have had this into a GM dealership and two other mechanics have looked at it...we are at a loss as to what to fix next...HELP!! :(
  • Now that's a positive thought and very much appreciated.

    For what it's worth, I do not have a shop manual for our 2000 GT even though we paid for one when first purchasing the car nine years ago. From the outset, the dealer delivered a damaged vehicle and subsequently refused to deliver on the manual; also refused to address the leaking intake manifold issue while the car was still under warranty. Appeals to GM went unheeded with responses that all issues were between customer and dealer and that GM fully endorses and supports all dealer decisions. Bottom line: cosmetic delivery damage has never been fixed, the shop manual was never delivered and we paid out of pocket to have the intake manifold issue repaired at a distant dealership. That's how I became "screwedbygm".

    It's very true, however, that what one puts out in life usually comes back with interest, whether good or bad. In this case, the rogue dealership went bankrupt -- and rightly so -- while GM morphed into Government Motors. Sadly, GM's losses have now been placed firmly on the backs of the taxpayers. The saddest part is that the Grand Am was basically a very good car, reasonably reliable and a joy to drive. Nevertheless, I do not see myself ever purchasing from GM again, even if personal economic circumstances should improve, since they have clearly demonstrated (three times over) a total indifference towards purchasers (their customers) and a complete lack of integrity and corporate responsibility. We currently have almost 150,000 miles on our 2000 GT and plan on at least 50,000 more. Virtually all servicing and repairs is conducted by Yours Truly.

    On the driver's seat height issue, as far as I've been able to determine, none of the Grand Am's came with full power seat options for either driver or passenger -- probably just as well. The GT's came with the problem (weak design) power height adjustment on the driver's seat and some, but apparently not all, SE's had a manual height adjustment. I've been touring junk yards looking to see what may be available from that source, thus far without success. On every GT I've found, the power height adjuster was already dead and I've yet to run across an SE with a manual adjuster. If and when I find a junker with a manual height adjuster, I'll take the entire driver's seat underframe with manual adjustment and swap it out for the defective powered underframe that seemingly cannot be economically fixed on the GT. There's no way I'll shell out another $300+ to those Greedy Mother------s (my other synonym for Government Motors) for the sake of a $10 part not made available.
  • Your story of shoddy treatment by your GM dealer seems all too familiar, especially among those of us who post here on Edmunds.com. I guess I should feel very lucky to have purchased my Grand Am from a cooperative dealer. Not only did my dealer work with me on my Passlock Security problem, they also allowed me to look through their service manuals for information I needed to defeat the Daytime Running Lights when I shipped my car to Costa Rica, where Daytime Running Lights are not allowed. The dealer said they could not, by law, do the modification, but they were certainly helpful with information so I could do it myself. I could never get that much cooperation from the dealer who sold me my previous car. (Honda Civic)

    When my Grand Am bites the dust, I'll give you my driver's seat. Deal?
  • That's a possible maybe but, if you're still in Costa Rica, only if you'll play host if we fly down to pick it up? Seriously though, if you're planning to enjoy your Grand Am for as long as we are, I would certainly hope to have come up with something, somewhere, long before then. Meanwhile, with the seat removed, I manually turned the worm to give the lowest setting -- I'm driving comfortably that way. For the little Lady (known as "Shortie" by some of our friends) who is actually the primary driver of this car, we're using a cushion arrangement mush like an infant's booster seat. Improvise, improvise. Thank goodness the back and forth manual slider still works!
  • I have a fuel filter with a threaded end and a quick connect on the other side. Tabs on the quick connect are broken off any ideas on how to release fuel filter.

    Please help!
  • my low coolant light came on thursday night. i added coolant friday morning and now the light has come on again and i see fluid on the ground. it is mainly on the passenger side but the fluid on the ground does go across to the driver side. the fluid is towards the back (behind the engine). does this involve the radiator or something else? (also the w/s has been fogging up recently to where it take about 10 - 15 minutes for the defogger to clear it up)
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    You obviously have a leak in the cooling system, from your description it could be the heater core. You should have it pressure checked to find the source of the leak, an intake manifold gasket could also be the problem, but the windshield fogging up on the inside is kind of pointing to the heater core.
  • I agree with Burdawg here. The windshield fogging up is a classic symptom of a heater core leak.
  • mena2mena2 Posts: 1
    It has appeared twice in the last 2 weeks. The light does not stay on for long though. It goes off right away. Does it have anything to do with the sudden temperature drop? I moved from California to DC a few months ago so my car might not be used to it? I am not sure what to do. I was planning on taking it to the shop but I do not want to get screwed over by anyone. Thanks!
  • Make sure your coolant level is correct. This is a symptom of not having enough coolant in the system, or having air bubbles in the system. Also, make sure your coolant is good for the lower temperature. All this stuff is covered in your owner's manual. A lot of people in california use water for their coolant. If that's what you have, drain it, and fill it with Anti-freeze coolant before the temperature drops below freezing.
  • It sounds like something is ready to just snap when I make turns mostly left turns.. I was told i did not have to get the car lubed like we did on the old car and its real bad on cold days
  • Wow my daughter bought a 2000 Grand AM SE and she asked me to check her transmission and oil levels. Well the oil was no problem but much to my surprise there is no dipstick to check fuild levels in the tranny. I have never owned a Pontiac so I am clueless except to tell her to take it to someone who service and know how to service a Grand AM. If someone could clue me in to what do and where to look so I can service it myself I sure would appreciate it. My daughter is my care giver because of a disability so it is in my best interest to be able to help her keep this car running because she has to drive me to Little Rock AR to the VA.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    There's been no dipstick on transmissions on many cars for some time now, not just GM products.
    On a GA you need to remove the level plug on the transaxle while it's running and warmed up to see if the level is right. If a little fluid dribbles out then it's right. The plug is on the passengers side, near the front of the transaxle. It helps to take the right front wheel off for access, it needs to be relatively level while checking. Remember that it needs to be running the entire time the plug is out or you'll have a mess.
    Most people find it's easiest to have it checked at a shop where it can be put on a lift.
    The fill plug is on the drivers side, access is from the top of the transaxle. You will probably need to remove some of the intake plumbing (air filter box, etc) but I can't remember specifically what. I have changed the trans fluid myself on my 04, but it's been a while so I'm a little fuzzy on the fine details.
  • Drive in to any Quickie-Lube, and for $20, you get an oil change, and they check all the fluid levels.
  • Vehicle: 2002 Pontiac Grand Am LE, Manual Transmission, 2.2 L4
    Problem: The "Brake" light at the top of the instrument cluster is always on.
    Cause: Apparently, the parking brake light switch is out of adjustment.
    More Information: Most of the time, while I'm driving, the Brake Light on the dash is on. Ocassionally, it will go off and stay off for a couple of miles, then come back on when I make a left turn. I'm pretty sure it's because the parking brake electrical switch is out of adjustment, or the parking brake cable is not returning all the way.
    Does anyone know where this switch is located and how to get at it I assume it's hidden somewhere in the center console near the park brake lever. I'd be grateful for any help.
    Dick
  • Hi Costa Rica Dick. Sorry I cannot help with the parking brake switch location but, before you go tearing the console apart to search for it, please check your brake fluid reservoir levels under the hood first. The fact that the light can come on or off with the centrifugal force of a turn suggests that you may be low on fluid and making intermittent contact with the sensor as the fluid sloshes around. Topping off the fluid reservoir(s) may resolve the light warning but low fluid usually portends something more serious such as a leak somewhere in a brake line, a leaking caliper or wheel cylinder, although it is possible to show a low fluid condition if disk pads or drum linings are worn so thin that a greater volume of fluid remains in the lines for effective brake function. Hopefully someone else can come up with the parking brake switch location for you.
  • Thanks for the good tip about the brake fluid level. I did not realize that there were sensors to warn of low brake fluid. I did top off my brake fluid, and will see what happens this morning on the way to work. I have a feeling, though, that this will not stop my brake light from coming on. I didn't mention it earlier, but from time to time, I have tried pulling up slightly on the parking brake lever, and then slamming it down quickly, and this has turned the brake light off. Even that hasn't been effective lately, though, which leads me more in the direction of a bad or mis-adjusted park brake switch.
    I guess I wouldn't mind the brake light being on, as I know that the car rolls freely, having pushed it with the brakes off. But each time the light goes on, it dis-engages my cruise control.... a big bummer when you're on the highway. Still looking for the location of the switch.
  • I just replaced my front brakes, the rotor and caliper on the drivers side 2 months ago. Drivers side brakes are sticking will not release correctly, already went through entire pad. Also right rear also seems to be sticking and not releasing, brake lines seem to be fine and I bleed brakes when installed. Can someone tell me what the problem is so I don't replace parts that are not needed.

    Thank You :mad:
  • deewmdeewm Posts: 5
    Your rubber brake line near the brakes has most likely colapsed inside the hose. When you press brake pedal the fluid will pass through the hose but won't release the pressure so the caliber sticks even after you release the pedal. If you've already went through a pad you've probably ruined your new rotor. You should replace rubber brake hoses if they look cracked and dried out
  • If only the pad opposite the caliper piston is worn, it means your pins are rusty and need to be replaced. It's not a good idea to work on your brakes unless you know exactly how they work, and what purpose each part has. The pins must allow the caliper to float so that the non-excited pad can move away from the rotor. If the caliper does not float, the inside pad will not release.
  • djrekerdjreker Posts: 1
    :confuse: times are rough for me and im sure lots of you. i just need a SLIGHT push in a certain direction as far as my car being legal and fixed. heres the problems from most important to whatever:

    IDLE CONTROL - car revs up and down constantly when in park or neutral - was told by a couple people its the IAC controller? how much? whats the part exactly called so i can look it up?

    A/C PROBLEMS - A/C works fine when car is started then as i sit somewhere or at a light air gets humid and hot, and tempature gage goes up so i have to turn it off for a bit. only works perfect on highway or steady driving. ( i live in PHILLY :( )

    LIGHT PROBLEMS: front left headlight bulb is out. replaced the bulb, went out again, replaced socket and bulb, went out again. wires maybe? and my TAILLIGHTS go out once in a while ALWAYS ALONG WITH my interior dash lights and instrument panel lights. this happens once in a while, on and off. brakelights always work tho, also third brakelight is out but havent checked that bulb yet, could that be causing problems?

    and if anybody is NEAR philly, and would help me get my car back into shape, of course i would pay you, we could help each other, whatever im a chill dude looking to avoid getting ripped off by pep boys. THANKS for looking ANY help on ANY of the problems is appreciated. also email me at [email protected]
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    1. Could be the IAC valve, but it may just need to be cleaned, not necessarily replaced. IAC = idle air control. Could also be the TPS (throttle position sensor) or the PCM (powertrain control module), but the IAC is the problem 90% of the time in my experience.
    2. When the A/C is on, are the cooling fans running full time? If not, then it will run hot at idle (or when no air is flowing over the radiator, like when stopped at a traffic light), and the A/C condensor won't get cooled. Most like the A/C system will shut down to protect itself under this condition. The A/C charge should also be checked.
    3. Could be lots of things. Coincidence maybe on the headlight, or corroded contacts, poor connections. Interior and tail lights, ditto, but may also be a worn ignition switch.
  • I'm a female drving a 2003 Pontiac GrandAM and am not sure I have been given good advice.

    My car WAS also idling high at a complete stop when in park. I had someone adjust the idle setting to low. Now it no longer idles high, but acceleration is jerky and very slow now, where before the idler adjustment, it accelerated just fine.

    Can some one explain where the idle adjustment switch is so I can try to reset the idle adjustment. When the guy adjusted lower it didn't seem to require a lot of tools or effort. So it seems a simple enough adjustment.

    My check engine light is also on now and a diagnostic indicated that my first o2 sensor in the bank 1 location is bad. I've been told that could be the cause of a high idle. I just want, in the meantime while I'm waiting on getting my o2 sensor, to be able to drive my vehicle the way it was driving before the idle adjustment. I feel as though I'm slowing all the traffice behind me. :(
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    There's no "idle adjustment". The idle speed is set by the IAC on a modern fuel injected engine. The IAC is controlled by the PCM which gets input from other sensors as to what the needed idle speed is. The IAC controls the amount of air that is allowed to bypass the throttle body when the butterfly valve is completely closed, like when your foot is off the accelerator.
    I don't know what was done to it, but it doesn't sound like it was good.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Posts: 330
    edited July 2010
    choleycole,
    burdawg is correct. The Powertrain Control Module constantly adjusts the Idle Air Control to maintain about 750 rpm when the Throttle Position Sensor indicates zero throttle. If, for instance, you shift from Drive to Park, the load on the engine will be less, and the engine will speed up. The Powertrain Control Module will see the increase in RPM, and then adjust the Idle Air Control to slow it back down. If your vehicle was idling at a higher RPM, it's very likely that the Idle Air Control Valve (a mechanical part) was sticking, and therefore not shutting down the idle air bypass enough to let the engine idle at the proper low speed. Whoever adjusted your idle may have somehow changed the point at which it sticks. It's also likely that when your engine is cold, it idles too slow, and when it warms up, it idles a little faster (If a sticky IAC is the problem). You could have a bad electrical connection between the Powertrain Control Module and the Idle Air Control.
    A competent mechanic should be able to hook a diagnostic scanner to your vehicle and determine exactly what is the problem. She will be able to see the signal for the Idle Air Control move up and down, and see that it is not causing any effect on the engine speed. Good Luck. Wish we could completely solve the problem for you, but this is something that needs hands-on diagnostics.
    Dickey-B
  • You are a perfect candidate for a Service Manual
    A service manual for your Pontiac will give you step by step diagnostics to solve your wiring problems. There really isn't any other way. This is another of those problems that needs to be diganosed in a "hands-on" fashion, but the service manual will give you a tremendous amount of help.
  • does anyone know if my 2002 pontiac grand am 2.2 litre engine with 99000 miles has a timing chain or belt because i cant find in the maintenance manual when to replace it.
    I read somewhere that if it breaks the engine will be ruined.Can anyone help?
  • hI.
    THIS ALL STARTED WITH A BLOWN BACKUP LIGHT. I REPLACED IT, STILL IT DOES NOT GO ON ( LEFT DRIVER SIDE REAR ). I FOUND CORROSION ON THE CIRCUIT PLATE INSIDE THE LIGHT ASSY ON THE CIRCUIT PLATE AND DECIDED TO REPLACE IT WITH A ARCH AUTO 30 DOLLAR AFTER MARKET ONE WHICH I WAS TOLD IS COMPLETELY COMPATIBLE BUT MY PROBLEM SHOWED UP3 DAYS LATER.. WHAT A MISTAKE. I PUT THE BULBS IN, BULB FOR BULB, NOT USING EXCESSIVE PRESSURE JUST SNAPPING THEM IN ). BEFORE I KNEW IT,MY BATTERY WAS DRAINING OUT OVERNIGHT, MY DRLS WERE NOT WORKING, THE SWITCH WAS NOT WORKING, THE LEFT UPPER BRAKE LITE WAS OUT TOO. OMG.

    I WAS LUCKY AND WENT TO A REPUTABLE ELECTRONICS AUTO TROUBLESHOOTER AND THEY FIXXED THE PLATE WHICH CAME FROM CHINA FOR 170 AND THEY COULD HAVE TAKEN ME TO THE RIVER. BOTTOM LINE, I PROBABLY SHOULD HAVE SPENT THE 90 BUCKS FOR A GM CIRCUIT PLATE. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH AFTER MARKET PARTS FOR THIS CAR. LESSON LEARNED
  • nedn46nedn46 Posts: 1
    I have replaced the front fog lights, but I now need to replace the rear fog lights. When I talk to the rep at the auto parts places, they say that they don't know if or where you would find the rear fog lights. The question.... Are the rear fog lights the same part as the front fog lights?

    Thanks,

    Ned
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    There's no "fog lights" in the rear. Are you referring to the back up lights?
  • leeman1leeman1 Posts: 1
    i was told about a recall on the intake gasget on this motor. its the 3.1 with 280.000 on it. i have replaced this gasget before. does any one know about a recall on this? it s in a 95 grand am gt.
  • jmunsjmuns Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    2003 Grand Am trouble. engine 3400 - ODBII errors - O2 Sensor1 bank 1 error, Cylinder 1 misfire detected. Engine runs rough, white smoke from exhaust, clear fluid under car with toxic burnt oil smell (same as exhaust smell). Coolant low but filled it. Engine service light on solid but goes off at highway speeds. Any ideas??
  • I have a problem with the door lock (on the drivers side only-interior) which prevents me from being able to lock the door without using the key or leaning over and locking from passenger side. I don't have a remote so I have to utilize the buttons to lock the doors. The button feels kind of loose and this has been a problem for a few weeks. Now I have just experienced the window (drivers side only) will not roll down - all others work. Anyone have any suggestions on what problem could be? Thanks for your help!
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