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Install is just reverse order.
What are Iridium plugs? You just need to buy platinum plugs, and the autolite brand with a single ground strap is all you need. They are like $2-$4/ea.
Any suggestions?
Sammy
Max Life comes in 5W-30, but I am hesitant to go with a different grade oil. Also, I was considering adding 1 quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer every oil change.
1) Any recommendations on oil? Is it ok to use 5W-30? Is there another high-mileage oil that comes in 5W-20?
2) Pros and cons of Lucas Oil Stabilizer?
3) How about an oil filter recommendation?
Thanks in advance
:confuse: CW
(Although the recommendation of 'lighter' oil, in many cases, is only to get better gas milage, in my opinion. 5W-30 or 10W-30 would probably be fine, especially since in earlier years of this motor, this is what Ford probably recommended.)
In my opinion, any major oil name will do fine. "High-milage", "RV", etc etc 'specialized' oil - what a load of crap. Royal Purple - Ha. Do these 'specialize' oil companys have an oil refinery? No. They buy truckloads of base stock from the big boys refinery, package it, add the 'usual' additives, then spend lots of money of advertizing about how 'special' their oil is. And millions of cars run every day for millions of miles on good old Mobil, Texaco, etc etc oil.
You've got a Ranger with 77,000 miles, which is not a not of miles. Change the oil and filter every 4,000 miles or so, use any 'name' brand oil, use Motorcraft filter - you aren't going to have a maintance problem tied to oil lubrication.
Filters - I don't like Fram. Read too much about how 'cheep' they look inside when cut apart. I could usually find Motorcraft (Ford) filter at auto parts house for $3. If Ford puts their name on it, it should be fine for the vehicle.
Remember, it's a truck. Trucks get crappy milage.
My 94 4L automatic got about 13mpg in town in winter (14.5 in summer) and the MOST it ever got on the highway was 18.5mpg.
A 3L won't get much better.
I changed the plugs and they told me that it is running very lean and the idle, both when cold and warmed up will surge 500 rpm for a coule of seconds and then return to normal. Was told it might be a sensor of some kind but I don't know which one, if there are more that 1. Looking for suggestions.
TIA
Now there is white smoke coming from the exhaust and water which tells me he messed the engine up too. Did I mention the overflow tank is bubbling.
What should I do and how much does this usually cost people. Or should I trade it in and hope its not discovered since it is winter time where I am at.
Thanks
Jaime
Would you like for someone to 'unload' such a vehicle on you?
Fix it.
If you are not getting a pressure readout on the guage, then later do get a pressure reading, I would replace the oil pressure sensor. It's sticking.
I do remember the Fram I bought for this truck, the new PCV valve was somewhat different from the Ford one. I had to cut the hose to make it fit and plug one opening on the new filter. Something like this. After double checking with the parts house, it was the correct one, they just made one for several applications - a somewhat 'universal' one.
Actually PCV valves seldom need replaced on a regular maintained vehicle that is not burning a lot of oil. You could take the old one off, spray with carb clean, shake out the carb cleaner and put it back on. If it 'rattles' when shaken, it's probably still in fine condition.
It's just a one-way valve that opens under pressure, allowing oil-ladden oil from inside the crankcase (via valve cover) to be pushed into the air intake stream and be burned in the cylinders. In old, old days before about 1965 or so, this oil was just vented to the atmosphere. The PCV valve and hose was the very first air pollution device put on autos.
Take the truck to an independent mechanic/garage. Ask around, try to find one that other people have used and are happy with.
Take the truck in there and ask what a head gasket job will cost you. Might be around $400-$800, but this is just a wild, wild guess.
If you repair this, with your prior transmission repair, you might then have a reliable little truck that will give you another 150,000 miles.
By using wild guesses about the options (none, base truck) you are about 'even' at owning $8,200 on a 2004 truck (with no problems). With a bad head gasket, it isn't worth that much. Remember, no matter how a dealer writes the numbers up on a different truck, you ARE going to pay this $8,200. You will just be buried even further in the next truck.
Overall - good luck to you on whatever you decide to do.
I have gotten so many replies for used engines
the problem is getting the right engine
it says cal emissions w/o EGR
is this the same as low emissons w/o EGR?
thank you
You already have the 4 cylinder, that's about as good as it's going to get.
Was your problem the throttle position sensor? A friend has a similar problem with a 1999 Ranger. Except it ALWAYS chokes out. He cannot get the engine over 1500 rpms. One interesting symptom is when the throttle is released it will rev for a moment before returning to idle.
Am I gonna need a whole new compressor?
Please tell me this is an easy fix. :sick:
I have a 98 Ranger 4.0L V6. The starter cranks but the engine won't start. After checking the starter, battery, fuel pump, and fuses, we checked the coil pack. We had no spark from the coil pack and replaced it with new one. Still got no spark from the new coil pack. A friend suggests that it might be a relay switch. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions on what it could be and what I should check next?
Thanks
As it turns out, mine had a small leak. Once that was fixed and the system recharged, the clicking stopped.
Thanks,
Scarab3
Not real bad, since you don't say it is overheating, but a head gasket anyway. The coolant is going somewhere.
I would have a cylinder compression test done. All cylinders should be within 5psi of each other.
Ford Tech