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I would not have it any other way. If you don't like the LR as is, go get a [non-permissible content removed] mobile, or Kraut pretender (excepting the G-wagon). But quit your damn whining about the LR engine !!!!!!!!!!
Thank god!
My first day or Discovery ownership was interesting. I just purchased a 01 with 13,000 miles. Noticing the wiper blades were streaking, I tried to purchase some re-fills at the local auto parts store. They gave me some that were purported to fit and as I was trying to remove them the 1 penny plastic part that holds the entire blade on snapped. Of course I thought I'd just buy the blade, but not possible as the Brits appear to have copied an E. German system of connecting the blade to the wiper arm. I then called the local dealer who reported since it's Sat. the parts department is closed. I then checked with Napa, Pep Bros., Walmart and Discount Auto Parts but no luck. No one in the USA has wiper blades but the few Land Rover dealers, open Monday-Friday. I guess I should feel fortunate it runs on American high test gas and that international sized tire will fit on the rims. Hey, Bill Ford why don't you do one of those feel good commercials to discuss how a family traveling in a Rover, unable to see, can stop and get new Anco wiper blades.
I guess I should buy a half dozen at the dealer on Monday.
It will be interesting to see if they keep the '05's price close to the current ones.
Uh Oh...
Does anybody know about replacing rotors at the same time as brake pads? I have a 2000 Disco II and the dealer tells me that it is just standard practice to replace the rotors every time that the pad is replaced. The rotor doesn't have to be worn, "just needs to be done at the same time". Something about the ABS system.
I don't know about you guys, but it sounds a little fishy coming from the dealer. My experience is that, yes - the rotors should be replaced when worn, but a rotor within the spec should be fine. This was when the fronts needed new pads several months ago and they said the backs were fine but would need to be done soon.
It would have helped had the same dealer told me about this when selling me the car. One of the deciding factors was that all maintainence was included for 50K miles. Paying several hundred $$ extra for rotors because "it just needs to be done at the same time" was kind of like a kick in the teeth from the same guy who took my money 18 months ago.
I go in for service in 2 days so any opinion is appreciated.
Steve
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I'd recommend you find a new dealer. If he's misleading in the simple things... what will happen if something more serious comes up?
Annnnnd, if you have access to hand tools I recommend you do your own brake pad replacements. It's a SUPER easy job, great design, it's fast and it gives you a better appreciation of your truck. If you had it on blocks so both wheels were elevated on the same side, I bet you could replace both sets of pads in 20 minutes... and then rotate the tires front <--> back while it's up in the air! hint hint... (and reset the pressures when you're done.)
Best regards, -Bob
That's what I did, and I got the truck I wanted for a GREAT price. I still had plenty of warranty left and the dealer here still treats me like a valued customer (and I didn't even buy it used from him!)
Just my $.02 -Bob
"Each Land Rover Retailer sets vehicle prices individually." This is directly off of their website. So the price should be a little flexible.
The price you were quoted doesn't sound bad at all. That is the lowest Iv'e heard.
Do they have the Center Diff Lock in it yet?
Good Luck
If it's rusty, pass on it.
Watch for leather wear, lack of maintinence (Is it sitting on el-cheapo-el-crappo tires?), faded paint on the hood and roof, little electrical problems and AC..
Overall, after scaring you (LOL) these are GREAT vehicles. They dont like being mis-maintained though.
If any of you are in Orlando BTW, I have a GREAT Land Rover tech!
Hope this helps!
Bill
My thinking is this: I know how I drove in my teens (ahem). I know how peer pressure prods one into doing things not normally done. I know that these are trucks and not cars, with corresponding high CGs and roll rates. I know these are tough vehicles, but also expensive to fix.
If it was me, I'd buy something a little more disposable, cheaper to fix, and able to withstand the unthinkable: an intersection side impact.
It ain't cool, but a BIG sedan comes to mind. Look at what the police and cabbies drive... they spend their lives in harm's way in traffic. Their choice for vehicles makes sense.
In a few more years, think about something with a high CG and long travel suspension. This is your child, one of the most precious things in the Universe. If your selection makes you uncool, s/he will thank you for it some day.
Just my $.02 -Bob
Just my 2¢. - Dave :-)
Thanks
Steve
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Good to see everyone is enjoying their Rovers - I'm still in the sunbelt and just don't have a need for another Land Rover. I was in the market for an SUV type vehicle last year and ended up with a new BMW X5 - it ain't no Land Rover but it fits my needs perfectly since the tallest hill around here is a parking lot speed bump and the most inclement weather is an occaisional rain storm. That new Range Rover is one sweet looking ride - I think I feel an itch comming on - I must avoid my local Land Rover dealer, I must avoid my local Land Rover dealer, I must avoid my local Land Rover dealer, I must avoid my local Land Rover dealer.
KK
The car I am considering has 100,000Kms on the clock, ONE owner and a full service history at Landrover.
The dealer will let me take it away and have it checked over by Landrover (can't be fairer than that)before purchase.
Can anyone advise: What should I have checked? What can I expect to change in the future?
Info would be much appreciated....
Steve
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Good luck! -Bob
Just bear with Steve. He spent a long time here in Alaska and once he moved out, his brain thawed. The symptoms you see here are normal. The only solution is to do what I do: stay here and keep the grey matter perpetually frozen.
*grin* (and ducking)
My understanding is the onset of the 4.0L engine with its new head design in '96 is the culprit; the '95 had far fewer instances of sticking valves. In fact, having had the carbon cutting valves put in my '96 and changing nothing else, I have not had a repeat of the stumbling, lack of power, *EXTREMELY* bad misfire, etc. etc. If it was simply an over-inquisitive OBD system, it would have immediately recognized the continuing driving patterns, fuel grades, temperature ranges... none of which has changed.
With all due respect, this is what I've gleaned from my years with the beast. I appreciate your input. -Bob
Don't shoot the messenger, just reporting what I've read.
In any case, the problem didn't affect all Discos, and no amount of additives and hard driving (I speak from experience here) would clear the valve stems once fouled.
There was some GEMS tweaking and voila' the '97s had much less sticking. It has since been innoculated out of the line... to the point I wouldn't even give it a thought in the 2003.
You must remember that what I know of these trucks is relative to only a couple of years, and much of it is inherited conjecture... with a certain amount of urban legend thrown in for fun. For certain, these beasts thrive on regular hard use (which may have kept the valves scrubbed) but not quite so certain is whether indeed Lord Lucas remains close at hand.
LORD LUCAS DISCLAIMER: My lousy British piece of tin (whoops: aluminum) runs like a crippled sow in a field of wet wheat, and drips oil like the Exxon Valdez on Bligh Reef. wink wink, nudge nudge.
If it's British then shouldn't it be aluminium? :-)
tidester
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Steve
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