Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Hyundai Tiburon Clutch Problems



  • julieckjulieck Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advise. Now I am being told as of yesterday 5/7/10 that they have made matters worse by the rebuild and they are now having to order a whole new transmission. I am very disappointed in the whole situation and quite frankly my car! I hope that you are correct in saying that shifting will improve!
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    I had a feeling that they were going to have to go further with the transmission.
    Honestly, like I mentioned in my last message, I think the transmission may have been bad from day 1, and it could be a misalignment problem with a bearing due to a poor casting.
    In your case, the new transmission should solve all your problems. :)
    Maybe it will take alittle longer, but once you get a fresh one, you should get years of trouble free use out of it.
    My 04 Tibby is 6 years old, and I took out that damn clutch slave cylinder delay valve and spring (there have been so many reports of bad clutches it isnt funny) to find out that removing this part is the saving grace for all Tiburon manual transmission owners.
    The shift action is spectacular, and the car has much better engagement.
    No slipping.. It just engages and drives down the road like any other manual transmission.
    When I first bought mine, I thought there was something off when I was clutching the car.. (like I was brand new at a manual and was slipping the clutch alot) but I knew it wasnt me as I have TAUGHT people how to properly drive a manual.
    So, I looked into it, and thought maybe there was something in the hydraulics of the clutch master or slave cylinder that could be slowing down the fluid flow so the clutch would naturally "slip".. to provide percieved smoothness.
    I was right.
    There was another guy online that found the culprit, (the clutch slave cylinder delay valve and spring) and effectively fixed the problem.
    This could be considered a "Mod" and it totally improves clutch operation.
    I doubt the dealership will remove it, but you might ask the mechanic (since the transmission is coming out anyway) to remove those 2 parts.
    If he doesnt for some warranty reason, have a friend remove it for you.
    Its pretty easy to do, and trust me.. your clutch depends on you taking it out or you will be replacing a clutch in 20K miles (or less).
    I have never been so adamant about something like this.. Since I own a tibby, I can vouch for its effectiveness. :)
    The car has 40K miles more on it since I took those parts out back in 2006.
    I dont regret it at all.
    Good luck!

    You need to file a complaint with the NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration). They are the ones who ultimately issue a recall for auto safety related issues. And, our clutch problem IS a safety issue since the failures occur when we are moving. File your complaint directly at:

    That is a link to the actual Online Complaint Form. Apparently there is no present investigation into this problem. Hard to believe with the hundreds and hundreds of clutch related complaints I have heard about, that only 58 complaints had been filed with the NHTSA. I was informed to encourage all who have had a problem to file a complaint there. I encourage the others who are pursuing a Class Action Suit to continue, as well as to file this complaint with the NHTSA. Don't allow Hyundai to continue to rip us off. Stand up and Speak up! Filing with the NHTSA could also help with any Class Action Suit.

    The NHTSA is part of the Department of Transportation. They are overseen by US Senate Committee on Commerce, Science and Transportation, as well as, the US Senate Subcommittee on Surface Transportation and Merchant Marine.

    In addition, you may also want to write you state Senators and Congressmen to obtain their support in this issue. The more we are heard the better. Remember, as Ben Franklin said, "The squeaky wheel gets the grease."
  • You need to file a complaint with the NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration). They are the ones who ultimately issue a recall for auto safety related issues. And, our clutch problem IS a safety issue since the failures occur when we are moving. File your complaint directly at:

    That is a link to the actual Online Complaint Form. I spoke with them this morning and was somewhat encouraged, but not guaranteed. Apparently there is no present investigation into this problem. Hard to believe with the hundreds and hundreds of clutch related complaints I have heard about, that only 58 complaints had been filed with the NHTSA. I was informed to encourage all who have had a problem to file a complaint there. I encourage the others who are pursuing a Class Action Suit to continue, as well as to file this complaint with the NHTSA. Don't allow Hyundai to continue to rip us off. Stand up and Speak up! Filing with the NHTSA could also help with any Class Action Suit.

    The NHTSA is part of the Department of Transportation. They are overseen by US Senate Committee on Commerce, Science and Transportation, as well as, the US Senate Subcommittee on Surface Transportation and Merchant Marine.

    In addition, you may also want to write you state Senators and Congressmen to obtain their support in this issue. The more we are heard the better. Remember, as Ben Franklin said, "The squeaky wheel gets the grease."
  • sygnatursygnatur Posts: 1
    Like so many of you above, my 06 GT 5-speed had the transmission go at 49k miles. I usually get at least 75k miles out of a clutch - I have never had a fly-wheel, throw bearing and clutch all go at once. The car never shifted right...the clutch seemed to be stuck at times, even though my shift was complete. It only got worse with time and then it started grinding and such.

    I took mine to AAMCO and had it rebuilt with NON-Hyundai parts. It now has Luk components and a Sachs clutch plate - all German parts. It shifts nicely now, better than new, but I am still skeptical about the reliability of the car and just want to get rid of it.

    The Tiburon is clearly a poor design and it is just wrong that Hyundai has screwed us all royally. My repair cost over $2k.
  • I have a 2003 tiburon gt with 100,000 miles which as all of the sudden developed clutch/gear problems. Car is very responsive once in gear but goes back and forth between going in gear very easily and going into gear very hard and sometimes having to shut engine off before being able to get it in gear. Most times I can double clutch it and get thru the gears pretty well. Sometimes I have to shut engine off when first started as it won't come out of gear and is producing a whining sound. I just had the master and slave cylinder replaced and it does the same thing. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!
  • i'm guessing it's the throwout bearing. it sounds like the same thing that i had wrong with my 03 gt. i only had 65k though, feel lucky you made it as far as you did. anyway, while you have the engine and transmission ripped out to replace the bearing you might as well replace the entire clutch and flywheel. you may regret it if you don't and then have to take everything apart all over again in a year or less. i bought a clutch masters stage two clutch and aluminum flywheel which came with a new throw out bearing and everything, short of a gasket, to replace the stock clutch kit. you may not want to spend that much on a racing clutch, but just make sure whatever clutch you buy, whether oem or aftermarket, it comes with a new throwout bearing. hope this helps. good luck, it's gonna get expensive. don't forget to do the 'slave cylinder mod' to extend the life of your new clutch.
  • Hello fellow disappointed Tiburon owners,

    I bought my tiburon used from a dealership 2 years ago and have replace the clutch once and had the flywheel resurfaced (about a year ago) and now I must replace my flywheel, disc, throwout bearing and clutch assembly.

    I am aware of the class action suit and for this reason I do not want to put anything else from the dealership in my car, for fear of future failure.

    So does anyone have a working solution for this clutch and flywheel problem? Aftermarket or not? I would rather pay 2500 and get this problem fixed for good then pay 1500 and have another headache in a year or 2.
  • unless Hyundai finally came up with an improved replacement part for this, you're SOL. I replaced mine 2 times. I dumped the car when I saw it was starting to happen again. Hyundai SUCKED when trying to get them to do anything. Might be a different story on the ones coming out in the last couple years, but my 2005 had 3 times in less than 22000 miles
  • lois17lois17 Posts: 2
    Yes. I am the sole driver of a 2007 Tiburon SE with only 25,685 miles on it, with clutch failure. Car jerks when going into 1st gear, and doesnt glide when switching through the other gears. I took it to a dealership last week and was told that they would have to take it down to the transmission which would take about 7 hours to do, and then there would be about a 10-30% chance that the problem would be due to driver error, in which case, I would be responsible for the cost of diagnosis (about $700) plus the repair. If the problem was deemed to be a defective part, then it would be covered under warrenty. My first car in high school was a Simca (stick shift). Then I drove a Toyota Truck, then a Ford Ranger truck, then a Ford Mustang. All of which were stick shifts which I drove about 7 yrs each, and none of which ever had a clutch problem. To be told that I may have caused this problem by the way that I drive is somewhat insulting. I am 54 yrs old with over 30 yrs experiencing of driving stick shifts!!! Now that I see that there are so many others with this issue, it may be worth pursuing a class action suit for the 2007 Tiburon clutches as well. Apparently, a class action suit was settled on the 2003 Tiburon clutches. They no longer make the Tiburon, perhaps there were just too many issues with them. Right now I have gone back to the dealership where I purchased the car and the svc mgr there has indicated that he may be able to help me. If this problem is not corrected and covered under the "False Assurance" warranty, I will be looking into whatever legal avenues I can pursue. I have never sued for anything, but I am just that upset at this point.
  • jsf32jsf32 Posts: 2
    It is amazing to see how many people have had the same problem and Hyundai does not solve the problem. My car started to have issues if I remember right around 22-24K miles with the clutch slipping on upshifts (about 2 years ago). At the time I also had some paint issues on the car. I took it in and was told that it was my care of the car and driving that caused the issues. Well that is such a slap in the face. I have always taken good care of my cars. I change my oil every 2K miles. Change antifreeze anually, clean injectors periodically, wash the car and wax it regularly, etc. I was particularly upset about the clutch issue. I have a 1976 Porsche 914 with the original clutch at 48K miles, a 1999 Mustang with the original clutch at 50K miles and drove a Ford Probe to 88K miles before it needed a clutch.

    Due to the answer I received from the dealer I asked to have a factory rep look at the car. He was as arrogant or worse than the service manager. He looked at the car. He said the paint was from birds and me not cleaning the car. He looked in the door well and saw a little dirt and said I do not clean it. This was after it rained heavy for 2 days and the car was out in it. Of course though he did have the fuel filler cap repainted that had faded to gray. He then told me I have poor clutch skills and that the clutch is not faulty. Then he had the nerve to tell me a friend of his races the same car with a supercharger and has not blown the clutch. Well that I am sure is not true. Anyone supercharging the car and racing it is not going to keep a stock clutch. I have been around cars my whole 38 years. My father was a mechanic and said he was sure it was not my driving.
    Now I am ready to go back after the dealer about the clutch. I want them to tell me it is my driving when the car now has 48K miles on it on the same clutch I supposedly wore out at 22K miles. WOW. I doubled the milage on a clutch I wore out at 22K. Guess that is some pretty bad driving.
    I f someone starts another lawsuite, please post it. I am in on that (if I do not unload the car first). I have been so frustrated by the arrogance of Hyundai and their lack of ethics.
  • jsf32jsf32 Posts: 2
    edited November 2010
    Of course I did not mention that the car also blew a brake cable at the cost of $100 and had to have both rear calipers replaced this past spring at about 43K miles. That should never happened at that low milage. And of course now the radio also has a reception issue. I am hoping that is just a loose antenna wire. Have not had a chance to check that yet. I have owned several cars and this car is by far the worst. My 11 year old Mustang has only cost me about $1000 in all that time (recently new brakes and shocks). This car has cost me more than that in just 6 years.
  • I just am experiencing the EXACT same problem with the exact car you have. I have been driving mini coopers and other stick shift cars for almost 40 years and have NEVER had a clutch go out until 200,000 miles. This car is at 19,000 miles and the dealer service just told me how much -above like you I might have to pay. I told him he was nuts....I am an attorney. Please respond if you are considering a class action on the 2007 tiburon. I will try to find the appropriate legal process for us. This is ridiculous. Thank you, Jean Farley
  • Yes, my son has a 2007 with 48,000 miles on it. His clutch just went and Hyundai is saying he needs to shell out $1700 to fix it. This is their problem, not his. Plus he is a young man in the miliary. He does not have this kind of money.
    I think it is a shame that Hyundai does not stand behind their products and shoddy clutches. It is obvious from this forum that they are well aware of this problem and refuse to do anything about it. I would welcome a class action suit for 2007 Tiberons! :mad:
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    Look at my post.. #67
    The answer is there.
    As far as the existing clutch, its probably already shot.
    However.. if you DO the simple mod as mentioned in the post, you will NO LONGER have clutch problems!
    It isnt really a design flaw.. it's a functionality flaw.
    Trying to make the clutch action super smooth and yet, wear the clutch out prematurely.
    I have over 60K on my car, and 4 years.
    Clutch works fantastic.
    It works like a manual should when you do the mod.
    Good luck.
  • My Clutch is not going in gear even when its Brand new!!!!!!!!!!

    My problem started when i couldn't get the car in gear, i would actually have to turn off the car and put it in gear and start from there. Its a Hyundai Tiburon 2006, i put a brand new clutch in and a clutch master cylinder but im still having problems putting it in gear PLEASE SOMEONE TELL ME WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    There is a possiblity that your clutch master and slave still have air somewhere in them.
    Did you do the clutch mod that asks to remove the little spring and small valve in your clutch slave? (See post #67).
    Typically, if the clutch slave is not pressing the clutch fork far enough, the clutch will not release the input shaft of the transmission, and you wont be able to shift into gear well, or at all. (grinding).
    The exact opposite of a worn slipping clutch that wont keep the engines flywheel tight against the clutch disk which wont keep the
    Since both the Clutch master and Slave can have air in them, continue to bleed the clutch and be sure the slave is pushing the pin hard enough against the clutch fork.
    This can be felt in the clutch pedal, but if you have the delay valve, it numbs the feeling.
    Sometimes, the new clutch master cylinder can actually be bad.. right out of the box!
    Keep that in mind.
    If I were you, Id replace the slave as well just for good measure.
    They aren't horribly expensive, and you can look for the valve in that as well.
    It is installed inside the fluid hose side of the slave cylinder coming directly off from the clutch master cylinder.
    The last possiblity is the clutch disk or pressure plate was the incorrect size, or the throw out bearing is not the right type.
    If it was a new clutch (not re manufactured) I would be less inclined to think it's the problem.
    Did you install the new clutch? Or a dealer/shop?
    Did it drive, or is it in the driveway with a new clutch?
    Was the flywheel resurfaced?
    Start with the bleeding procedure and take the delay valve and spring out first.
    Make sure there are no leaks, and use a good fluid..
    Dot 3 is ok, but Dot 4 is even better. (higher boiling point, and makes the clutch smoother).
    Dont use Dot 5.
    Also, one last thing..
    Once you replace your clutch master, people tend to forget you need to put some silicon grease on the PEDAL shaft inside the car.
    Eventually, it will squeak alot and drive you crazy.
    Good luck!
  • I did finally get my clutch fixed under the warranty after going to two different dealerships and getting the general manager involved. It was a dog fight, but I finally got the dealership that I bought the car from to at least pull the transmission and diagnose the problem at no charge to me. Once they did that, they discovered that there was a broken flywheel, and because they were not able to say without a doubt that it was driver error, they fixed it under warranty. It's too bad, because I really do love the car, but now I am very gun shy about this happening again. I dont want to be scutinized every 25000 miles when the clutch goes out. I suggest that anyone having the transmission pulled and clutch repaired, get pictures of the clutch and have them examined by a trusted mechanic, especially if your vehicle is still under the warranty.
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    Glad you got it taken care of. :)
    Hyundai uses a dual inertia type flywheel, so for it to break that meant it got pretty hot.
    Im sure with a really weak disk (due to slipping by the ridiculus, clutch slave delay valve) the pressure plate couldnt keep the disk sandwiched to the flywheel tightly, and as a result, literally warped the metal to all hell, and im sure cracking it.
    As long as you remove the slave cylinder delay valve, I can assure you, you wont have a clutch problem like this again.
    Over 60K on mine.. and I bought it at 16K.
    I couldn't understand why the clutch felt so odd, and suspected the clutch master, or slave was somehow "slowing", or "delaying" the clutch engagement.
    I was right.
    I went online and found a guy on a Tiburon Forum that suggested removing the Clutch slave delay valve.
    It did the trick.
    The clutch feels like all other manual transmission cars out there.
    No slipping, no slow takeup of drive.
    Just perfect.
    My gas mileage went up, and I have had no problem with my clutch.
    I did this just a month or so after I bought her.
    I've had her since February 2006.
    Just don't forget to do this little easy mod, and you should be fine.
    Good Luck!
  • gpenngpenn Posts: 1
    A clutch should not wear out at 50k. I too am having a similar problem at 50k and the dealer and Hyundai will not acknowledge the problem. It floors me that they have been sued for this in the past and they are playing dumb once again. This problem exists in the Tiburon, Elantra and the Sonota. And they all have the same clutch assemblies. To make matters worse. They are keeping the clutch from the after market mfg companies, so they can rape customers on the sale of a replacement. I too will join any legal action on this.
  • rbailinrbailin Posts: 1
    edited January 2011
    My brother just had his 2004 Tiburon (GT V6 6sp, 76K miles) into the dealer because the clutch wouldn't fully disengage. They insisted he needed a new clutch, dual-mass flywheel, cover & release bearing for $2300. Apparently after re-assembly, they still couldn't get the clutch to release, so they ended up replacing first the master & then the slave cylinders. It STILL would not release so they tore it down and discovered that the new replacement clutch cover was defective.

    When we went to pickup the car, they said there was no charge for the master & slave cylinder in order to stick to the original $2300 estimate. We asked for the old parts back, and examined them before paying the bill. The clutch had very minimal wear (wear limit at the rivets is 1mm and there was at least 3mm), and on both the clutch cover and the flywheel you could still see 98% of the original machining marks on the contact surfaces.

    At first the only problems I noticed were that the clutch cover surface showed minor signs of heat stress (blue discoloration) and the flywheel surface had quite bit of surface rust (very unusual because the clutch should fully disengage from both surfaces and clean off any rust upon re-engagement).

    But then I noticed that the hub area of the dual-mass flywheel was cocked. According to the mechanic who worked on the car, this hub is supposed to allow some axial movement but no lateral movement, and needed to be replaced. The seal surrounding the hub was also distorted and not lying flat against the surface.

    We went back to the service manager and insisted that the flywheel was defective and should be covered under warranty. After much discussion, during which we gave another look at the flywheel hub, we finally noticed that the hub ring edge was ragged and, in fact at some point had broken off and fallen out without damaging the clutch in the process! They agreed to cover the flywheel under warranty ($1100) even though they claimed that it was unlikely that Hyundai would grant it and the dealership would have to eat the cost.

    I've never had a clutch need replacement before 150K miles of driving (or 10 years) and never had a flywheel break on me (after all, on most designs what is there to break besides the ring gear?). In my opinion there is a problem with both the design or q.c. of the dual-mass flywheel, and having a check valve in the slave cylinder that's causing all this premature clutch wear, especially with experienced standard transmission drivers. A class action suit should cover all models that use the dual-mass flywheel, from 2004 to end of Tiburon production.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 7,965
    While frustrations are understandable when dealing with a problem with your vehicle, the Edmunds forums can NOT be used to organize legal actions, so please don't make any posts along those lines as they will have to be removed.

    Thanks for your participation and cooperation on following the rules of the road in the forums

    Edmunds Moderator

    Need some roadside assistance? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Just purchased or leased a vehicle? Share your vehicle reviews

    PF_Flyer's 2014 Versa Note Long Term Blog
    How To Start Your Own Long Term Blog

  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    I agree with your post, and find the information very detailed.
    If the metal itself is prone to rusting, I could see pressure plate forces, due to the altered angle of the pressure plate to disc against the flywheel effectively sticking, overheating and not disengaging the real deal.
    However, this isn't happening in all cases from what I understand, but many of them.
    It is important for anyone who is having this issue, have the clutch ASSESSED properly by a well trained mechanic.
    Id consider getting the people who work on these car's to be involved in any potential legal action.
    Of course, as the Host has stipulated, Edmunds cannot be held responsible for legal action created on this website.
    There are other forums online that are generating these.
    Still, the issue with the clutch slave delay valve and spring helps destroy the clutches in these cars in a rather short period of time.
    The dual mass flywheel may be partly to blame, particularly if rust AND overheating, all caused by the silly delay valve work together.
    An overheated clutch along with either salt water from de-ice,(very severe rust potential) or just rainwater entering the bell housing could promote rusting particularly if the clutch metals used have a high iron content.
    That is why I am saying to consider the possiblity that something simple.. like the delay valve IS the main culprit.
    Not only the clutch design. ;)
  • bhoosebhoose Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    I have a 2006 Hyundai Tiburon that has just hit 68,000 miles and I have now replaced the clutch three times! Hyundai won't replace a damn thing. They say it's my fault. I mean sure, I like to down shift when jumping on the highway, but who doesn't? I don't drive the car hard. Even IF I did, how the hell can you burn through 3 "good quality clutches" in such a short time? I would avoid these cars all together if possible, but if stuck with a payment, I would reccommend an aftermarket clutch and flywheel. The factory ones that Hyundai puts on your car will jusy for be shot again in no time. I bought an F1 stage one racing clutch kit of of e-bay for less than 120 bucks AFTER shipping. It's cheaper, it they actually work! Hyundai dealers are worthless *******, just like the parts that they manufacture. Really, that is the only major problem I have had with the car. Everything else has been great. I know some of my friends who drive 03s have issues with brakes. They also have more miles on their car than I do. Hyundai doesn't care about you! As soon as it's paid off, I'm trading it in for a Camaro.
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    edited January 2011
    Remove the clutch slave cylinder spring and delay valve the factory installed as Original Equipment.
    ANY time you use the clutch, it actually ruins it by making it sliip for an excessive period of time until it fully releases.
    Depending on RPM, the destruction of clutch material on the disc results in other damage to the Pressure plate, flywheel and throwout bearing as the loads change rapidly due to wear.
    The part is simple to remove, and will stop all the wear you are encountering.
    Yep.. this is a stupid engineering idea for them to put a "delay" valve to improve clutch "feel" at the cost of major wear.
    Do the mod, and your clutch will feel like a normal clutch, with perfect engagement.
    I agree that Hyundai should have done a recall on this part and eliminated it from the car altogether.
    I have over 60K on mine and never had a clutch fail.
    But it would have otherwise with the delay valve.
    Just remove the slave cylinder, unbolt the banjo fitting and remove the little spring and its part with the hole in it.
    Put it all back together and refill and bleed your brake fluid.
    Add a touch of grease on the tip that contacts the clutch fork.
    Good luck. :)
  • i just had to sign up to tell u your wrong. The problem is with the bearing and pressure plate unfortunately the I O D of the pressure plate is to large causing a bind on the fork and cannot smoothly engage the pad and flywheel this is what causes the slip and the heat fractures "prematurely" and causes supposed failure however they can be machined for around 60 bucks. ;)

    Hyundai should stick to something a bit easier like maybe go carts if you want to buy a car by a honda and leave the loud mufflers and wheels for the Hyundai guys, those cars wont be around to much longer thank god.
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    The problem with the clutch to begin with IS indeed beginning with the clutch slave delay valve.
    If there is an additional design flaw with the clutch fork and throwout alignment, that is the result of the overheating and warping in the first place caused by the intended, "slipping" Hyundai designed into the clutch system to improve clutch feel.
    If the I O D is off, it will only make the problem worse.
    It is not likely the general cause.
    Anytime metal is fatigued with overheating, warping can cause all kinds of interference issues.
    The INTENTIONAL design of slippage causes serious heat damage.
    So.. no.. I am not wrong and you are not completely right.
    You didnt consider the repercussions of just the act of overheating the clutch in general.
    It is the cause of ALL clutch failure to the disc, at the pressure plate and the flywheel.
    Your added info is interesting, but it is NOT the end failure result by itself.
    It is only magnifying the problem by that stupid delay valve.
    Yes, I believe Hyundai should rectify this regardless.
  • 63taz63taz Posts: 1
    I've got an 06 gt tiburon....I love the vehicle .... today my husband complained about the clutch slipping and a terrible smell when he downshifted to pass and went back up into 5th gear. I have just over 103,000 miles on this car and knock on wood this is the very first issue I've had with it. If we do the slave cylinder mod now will it help.... I haven't noticed any slipping and I'm the one who drives it everyday but in the last 2 years haven't done as many trips as I had been doing. This is the very first time I've had this problem and the clutch burning smell.
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    Well, it sounds like in your situation, the clutch is finally worn out.
    If you were doing a great deal of Hwy driving, that is likely why your clutch has lasted as long as it has.
    There is typically little shifting done when you do long road trips.
    If you had removed the clutch slave delay valve early in the car's life, your clutch would be fine.
    But, not alot of people know about this problem.
    If you are careful, and don't continue to drive on the clutch with its current condition, you might be able to get away with only a resurface of your flywheel.. but a word of caution.... it should be inspected carefully for any cracking, or severe warping and replaced if in question.
    The friction disc is currently worn out, and your pressure plate can no longer provide enough clamping force to keep it sandwiched to the flywheel when the clutch is disengaged.
    When you do replace your clutch, be SURE to remove the clutch slave delay valve!!
    Then this wont happen again anytime soon.
    I would recommend having your engine rear main seal replaced while your flywheel is removed as good measure, and also replace both transmission output shaft seals (one on each side of the transmission, where the cv axles enter.
    As far as the clutch itself, I recommend a clutch kit, and try to go aftermarket NEW for good measure.
    There are some great companies out there that make better than stock clutches, so they make a good investment for better long term performance.
    (provided the clutch delay valve is out.. he he).
    You can just go for a stock replacement, unless you want to add more mods to the car, ( for more hp) which a stronger than stock clutch will be of benefit.
    You can go used OEM style for a clutch, but I don't think its worth the lower cost longterm.
    They are reconditioned older parts with a history of known weaknesses.
    I hope this helps.
    Good luck!
  • I bought my Tiburon 14 months ago with 15000 miles on it. It now has 35300 miles. I've had it in to the dealership over a dozen times for various problems; on 3 occasions reported problems with the clutch. (but because they couldn't replicate the problem it got dismissed.) I've been noticing over the past few weeks its become harder to drive; doesn't accelerate like it should. Sooooo, I took it back to the dealership and was informed its the clutch! I was told it will cost me around $3000 because its the dual fly wheel. My first thought was, I bought the extended warranty, isn't this covered - NO! I started researching on the net and found an amazing number of people reporting the same problem. At the advisement of the Dealer service tech, I called the Hyundai consumer number. After explaining the problem (and also pointing out all the issues across the country with clutches from many of their Tiburon models and siting the civil case in the 2003 clutch) she called the dealership. I was told they can tear the car apart at no upfront cost and if they find a manufacture's defect then there will be no charge to replace it. But if they try to worm there way out of fixing it (by saying driver fault) then I pay $500 + to get it back together and/or fixed. I told the consumer rep that there should be a recall for this issue and she was "noting" it. Any advise would be greatly appreciated! :sick:
Sign In or Register to comment.