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If you buy this beautiful machine, keep up with the scheduled maintenances. There is no more charge and if the retailer is like the one in my area, if you need a loner car, that's free to you also.
I only hit a few snags which were to be expected with a used car, even though it was in great condition. One issue was with the sliding cup holder that was broken and after the dealer agreed to purchase the part directly from LR I replaced it myself. Another thing I noticed wrong with my Disco was the tail lights weren't working. After checking the brake light switch I noticed that it was lose and once I secured it all was thought to be well. I only then realized that all the bulbs had burned out in my brake lights...bizzare. I replaced them and have had no other problems with that.
Check out the pics at (http://www.ebizautos.com/shared/viewer.cfm?iid=42990&aid=876- &pid=1&wid=800)
I am also on the hunt for a '00 Disco Owner's Manual since mine didn't come with one. If anyone has one that they are willing to give up lemme know.
Does anybody have any good, reputable shops specializing in Rovers that they can suggest?
Interpreting the codes is another story, but it's a start.
Steve, Host
If it's just a Service Engine Light then it may be time for one of the scheduled service intervals. You can do it all yourself fairly easily, but to maintain your warranty coverage you likely need to have it done at the shop. Then to turn off the SEL, go look at www.discoweb.org and it shows you how... even on a DiscoII.
Regards, -Bob
Thanks Bob!
Steve, Host
Can the ABS light be reset too?
For my lost key I had to use a $45 Acura key because it has a special computer chip in it.
I have written to you because my wife Kim has spoke with you about several issues with our '97 Disco and that advice has been invaluable. The problem now is that the truck is now wandering at highway speeds. Nothing major, but noticeable. The steering box has been replaced and the suspension system is fine, we have even replaced the steering stablaizer. I first noticed it after letting off the gas, but it happens all the time. Our dealer (LR Farmington Hills, MI) is trying to convince us to buy a '03 Disco as we are experiencing escalating maintenance costs lately but this is our first Rover and we don't really want to lose her(her name is Lizzie!). We do tow our 5000 lb trailer with it but are also inerested in the bigger engine(a Rover not BMW). In summary, what do you think about the wandering and what do you think about keeping the '97 vs a new '03(with extended warranty)?
Any suggestion would be helpful. Thanks in advance!
Another thing to check is the swivel pins. These are at the top and bottom of the ball shaped housings on your front axle inside which the CV joints live in their lube bath. The pins are the pivots upon which the front wheel hubs turn as you turn the steering wheel. As they wear they develop looseness where the trunion pin fits down into the swivel housing bearing, and then the truck can wander without the steering damper even moving!
The swivel pins are adjusted by removal and installation of shims. The fewer shims, the further the pin fits down into its bearing in the swivel ball, and the tighter everything gets. Be careful of the ABS sensor as you do this, it fits down into the swivel pin and the shim stack. I'd start by removing one very thin shim (there are likely several stacked there) and then on the jack stands, see how much tighter the turning of the hub has got. Technically, you're supposed to unhook all the steering gear, and then a wrench at the top of the hub will take something like 4-6 NM of torque to turn (rotate) a properly adjusted hub.
Good luck!
Thanks
brimcrow
- Maurice
I would change the oil before the trip, then after the trip. Do your first oil change at 500 mi. then again at 1500 mi. Then another change at 2500 mi. Then get into a cycle of oil/filter changes every 2500/3000 miles. It's not necessary to use synthetic lubes... I do so when it's really cold in winter, then using Castrol Syntec 5/50. I use Castrol GTX 10-30w and Purolator Premium or Napa Gold or WIX filters.
Change lubes in your transmission, transfer box and both diffs at 5,000 miles, then get into the cycle of changing all these lubes every year.
Wait until 6 months to change the power steering lube.
Do the brake fluid every year.
If you regularly give her lots of fresh lube and keep the fasteners tight, she'll run as long as you care to drive her. I'm at 83k miles and my Disco runs and drives like a spanking new truck.
Enjoy!
Does anyone know of a good mechanic for a 2000 Disco Series II in Atlanta?
There is another individual who posts here handled as 'Tincup'. I believe he works for LRNA and has, along with Nanuq, given excellent insights for these vehicles. Perhaps he might shed even more light on the subject of a "break-in" period and it's import for the 2003 model.
In the meantime, I'll let you know if mine explodes from utilizing the complimentary services.
Thanks again for all the good advice. I'll keep you guys posted.
- Maurice
I believe the word is that the new trucks don't require a break-in period... new machining processes supposedly let you get in and just drive it. But I have to wonder if that's a "warm and fuzzy" ploy to make new buyers less afraid of the truck? All the fresh pieces have to get acquainted with each other, and lube is what makes them happy as the flecks wear away.
Another thing, Rovers are sensitive to poor maintenance habits by getting "tappety" lifters. If you're shopping used and the truck ticks a lot, it has suffered thru long oil change intervals. At 83k miles my engine sounds and runs like new.
Synthetics really are the best lube for your truck, I'm glad to hear Rover is spec'ing them for the DIIs. Some people have commented that synthetics tend to weep from old seals and there may be some truth to that. But I haven't found that to be a problem.
Synthetic swivel ball lubes are nice in really cold weather, as well as in the transfer box and diffs. They flow much better when it's way below zero. Sometimes Anuqa feels like she's 110 years old the way she creeps around in the cold. But after a few miles she gets things stirred up again and she works fine. But even on campouts at -40F I've never had her not start the next morning.
I guess my recommendations about service intervals are extreme, but some of it is so easy to do!
Example, I have to replace my brake pads about every 17k miles. When I'm bleeding them after the change, I am EXTREMELY sloppy and generous with the bleed process, and wind up sending pints and pints of fluid down the lines.
Another example: it's super easy to change your power steering ATF... just use a turkey baster and suck it out with the engine running and your boy cranking the wheel side to side. Replenish as the level gets low, do it 3 or 4 times and you've got most of it.
Trick: the drain plugs for the diffs are the same size as your 1/2" socket wrench... plug in and loosen them! Another trick, your oil drain plug is the same size as your wheel lug nuts.
Seriously, Nanug, is power steering fluid just ATF? Not the stuff they sell as "PS Fluid"? If it is just ATF, what about using some Red Line synthetic ATF? In any case, whats the big deal about changing it regularly? I can't think of any other vehicle except BMW where this is ever done in practice (just imaging pulling into a big city, high volume Chevrolet store and telling the service writer that you wanted to change the power steering fluid in your company pickup truck!).
Incidentally, some of the off road magazines have the occastional ad for a ps fluid cooler kit. I know that NASCAR types have ps coolers.
I have had for what seems like a while now. You can view the pictures here...
http://homepage.mac.com/bperkins/PhotoAlbum29.html
Numbering would be from front to back if I'm not mistaken.
tidester, host
I like the muted/faded/mossy green that I've seen about town a few times a lot better than a more vivid, deep green and would like to steer my browsing-to-buy intentions toward the years when the mossy greens were available (provided there weren't any particularly horrible issues with that year otherwise).
Thanks...
Also anyone have any extended warranty info? I'm looking at warranty byenet, But I haven't heard much about them.
1. The massive drop in resale value of the Disco that is expected vs. the cruiser holds its value very well and has suffered its biggest hit.
2. I (just being unfamiliar with Discos, I have never owned a LR) question how long the vehicle will run be able to run effectively. Buying the TLC w/ 60k doesn't scare me at all because I know it is good for at least 200k probably closer to 300k.
3. Flip side - I like the new LR 4 yr. warranty w/ scheduled maintenance and the LR dealer I have been dealing with has been great. Not pushy at all, very honest and upfront and really seem to love the vehicles. The TLC most likely won't have a major repair for a while, but who knows.
4. I just really think the LR is cool and has loads of character. I like the quirks and nuances.
5. The TLC is rock solid and dependable. The LR is more of a gamble in the new model year with the changes, that should be for the better, but you just don't know.
Basically, you know the TLC will be great, but the LR is the gamble that could be even more enjoyable and get you in a group of people that truly love their trucks.
Any opinions on this? I know this is a biased forum, but please try to see both sides. Thanks.
Steve, Host
Is this from historic trends or because '04 is supposed to be such a big change in the model?
Want upscale options in an SD? Easy, have the dealer put the sunroof(s) in locally.(The West of Boston Rover dealer outsources this regularly). Then roll it into your note. The "leather" in the SD IMHO is better and certainly cheaper than the SE leather. (No armrests though. You simply hold yourself up w/o leaning on an arm rest).
I drove it a bit and seems to run and handle just fine. Does anyone have any advice here? What else should I be looking at in a car such as this?
Also, both sunroofs DO NOT work. I'm ok with this as long as they stay closed
I have the number of the previous owner, going to call her today. I really would like to know what sort of damage and repair it has had, more specifics if I can get them.
TIA!