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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II



  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    If your truck is anything like mine, these are easy services. But... have you had the auto trans filter replaced? I think that's due on or before the 60k service. It's a job you'll hate if you try it yourself. On my truck it means spreading the frame rails to remove a cross-member, etc.

    To change the auto trans, just open the drain bolt and drain it. Then put the bolt back in and refill it. You need to check it, I believe idling in park, and replenish the fluid as necessary. DO NOT OVERFILL. If you want to really get a good swap on the fluid, do this three times over the course of a couple weeks. My truck has no drain in the torque converter so it takes awhile to circulate the new lube into the converter, and to mix the old/nasty with the new/clean. Then you change it again, and repeat. Eventually you'll get out probably at least 90% of the old fluid. I am not sure if the 2000 DII is like mine... caveat emptor.

    Same with bleeding the brakes... put a clear tube over the bleed screw and then applying brake pressure, you crack open the screw and let the pedal drop to the floor. Then you close the screw before letting the pedal back up. If you put the downstream end of the clear tubing in the catch tank into which your old brake fluid is running, then you cannot suck air bubbles back into the caliper. Make sure to replenish the brake fluid as you do this so you don't let the fill tank go empty. You should see a color change to the fluid as the old stuff gets worked out of the lines and the new fluid arrives at the calipers (hence the clear tubing). Make sure you don't allow ANY air bubbles into the brake system, or you'll have spongy brakes.

  • mnrovermnrover Posts: 52
    I guess I have given up on new headers for my Disco II. Couldn't find any info. Only found aftermarket headers for the Disco I. I was hoping someone from across the pond would have ideas.
  • tcat1tcat1 Posts: 2
    Thanks nanuq, you're right, this service should be simple. Only thing is with the tranny has no filler tube or dipstick. ( go figure) So, according to the Range Rover manual, you are supposed to refill via fill plug on the side of the fluid pan until fluid runs out---then start engine, leave idling, and continue filling until fluid runs out again. Doesn't sound very exact. But we will see what happens.
  • Greetings fellow Disco owners. I recently just purchased a used LR Disco and am thouroughly enjoying it so far. I do wonder if anyone has played around with different options to improve the gas mileage. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I am well aware that it is a large SUV that isn't designed for good mpg, however I figure getting one or two more miles out of my gallon would be worth some hassle. Also I was wondering if anyone has played with the idea of installing something to make it part time 4WD. Just a question, buddy did it with a vehicross and am awaiting the results. On a side note, heres a holler to all Alaska rollers.
  • mathstnmathstn Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info, although I coughed up the bucks for original part replace I can purchase a few for future replacement use.

    Please provide a product/model type?


  • mathstnmathstn Posts: 2
    Leprechaunak and fellow owners,

    I see we share a delimma, I also recently purchased a :confuse: 2000 LR Disco II, and I enjoy my weekend jaunts, even with the cost of gas these days. However, I am interested in obtaining maximum gas mileage. To this cause I purchased a fuel optimizing device with hopes of stretching mileage. But thinking that locating the fuel line for application isn't as simple as I anticipated and my attempts to locate the fuel line are not successful. Short of consulting a mechanic any suggestions on where I can find text or diagrams or just plain assistance that would lead me to the incoming fuel line.

    Any/all assistance is appreciated.


  • kmbroverkmbrover Posts: 1
    I have been going to the dealership to have brake pads replaced every single year and it is insanely expensive. If I am not capable of changing them myself, what is another option for me? Can I buy the brake pads at an auto parts store or online and then take it to an auto center to have them put on? I have a 2000 Disco II. And is it normal to have to replace them so often?
  • azyreaazyrea Posts: 2

    I have a 1996 Land Rover Discovery. Recently the radio was disconnected from the battery and the theft mode was activated. I have the special code to reactivate it, but apparently some extra buttons have to be pressed before or after the actual code is pressed. I know the answer is in the 1996 Discovery Manual, but we lost that. Anyone with answers?


  • discomandiscoman Posts: 110
    I had the same problem in my 96 also. No there are no special extra buttons you need to press. The code you have for your radio is simply the wrong one. Apparently there were some of them (including mine, and yours) that head faulty radios, and were swapped out, and the technicians at the factory or dealership didn't bother issuing new cards with the new code, and/or updating the LR database. I even got the code from LR and it was still wrong. The service guys had to pull the radio out and get the serial # off the top of it, then call Pioneer and get the manufacturer's code. For me they did it at no cost since it was their fault I didn't have the right code. It was a completely different code than LR had. When they give you the code, make sure you write it down. You will have to take it in, because of the tool needed to pull the radio out, also they will need to see ID and make sure it is your truck and you are not a thief trying to get the code, so they won't do it over the phone (unless you are on a fist name basis with your service rep :) which means you spend entirely too much time at the dealer.
  • azyreaazyrea Posts: 2
    Haha, That little bit of info may prove to be insanely helpful. Thanks a ton for your response.

  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Brake pads are *ridiculously* easy to change on a Disco. Totally easy. Do it with both eyes closed. Even easier than that. At least on my '96 they are... it should be just as easy for you.

    Go to Schucks or Napa or wherever and GET THE CHEAP PADS. Those are the soft ones that wear out quick and save your rotors. I paid under $25 a pair for the last cheapies I bought.

    1 - Loosen the lugs nuts
    2 - Jack it up and use jack stands
    3 - Remove the lug nuts, then the wheel
    4 - Remove the cotter pins from the two pins holding the pads in place
    5 - Slide out the long pins that hold the pads in place
    6 - Use two long screwdrivers and gently but firmly press the pad/piston back into the caliper. Make sure you push the pad/pistons in on both sides. There will be lots of gap between the pads and the rotors when you're done.
    7 - Pull out the old pads (pliers)
    8 - Slide in the new pads (there should be enough room if you pushed the pistons far enough back into the calipers)
    9 - Slide in the long pins to hold the brake pads
    10 - Put on new cotter pins
    11 - Put the wheel / lug nuts on firmly
    12 - Drop the truck and torque the wheel lug nuts

    Presto! 15 minutes work.

    CAVEAT: Step #6 says to just push the old pads and pistons back into the calipers with screwdrivers. This does work but you can push cruddy old brake fluid back up the lines into the ABS pump. If your brake fluid is old, don't do it. What that means is, you have to crack open the brake bleed screw on the caliper as you push the pistons in, making a big mess. Then you close the bleed screw and you bleed the brakes. It's easy. That's how I do it but it's a little harder.

    Seriosly, you can do a pair of brake pads in 30 minutes on a Disco. Replace the rotors when they wear thin... not before that.

  • kscctsksccts Posts: 140
    I absolutely second this description. I have a 2000 DII and it is very easy to change the pads. No way I would pay the dealer $200 which is what they charge for a brake service PER axle. :shades:
  • honey5honey5 Posts: 1
    I looked at a Discovery series 11 today,,,,2001 with 44,000 miles. Asking price is $17,900.00 I have been wanting one for a long time but would love to have some feedback. Is this a good price and is everyone happy with theres? Also,,,Does this SU cost anymore on insurance then others? Thanks for any help...
  • 98discotex98discotex Posts: 8
    Does the oil pan drain screw come with a gasket? I recently had my oil changed at a neighborhood oil change outlet and have noticed it leaking from the drainplug. It's tight, I leaned on it myself- upon inspection it isn't cross threaded, but I noticed the plug itself looks new... I'm wondering if the old plug fell in the old oil and they simply grabbed one to replace it? Any ideas?
  • peeetepeeete Posts: 136
    This is a subject that has been beaten to death I know, but I thought my results this weekend were encouraging. I have a 2004 Disco with about 3800 miles on it. I did 180 miles on the highway yesterday with a 50/50 mix of premium and mid grade gas, and the highway was narrow and hilly, so maximum efficiency was not possible. Cruise was used when I could.

    I calculated approximately 19.25 miles to the gallon! I never thought this possible. Around town, I get 9 or 10. It is especially surprising as the EPA rating is 12/16.

    My old Infiniti G35 was a gas hog too, getting 15 mpg around town, but 25 on the highway. So I guess the substantial increase was warranted.

    If it was only 19 everyday! :)
  • bird050666bird050666 Posts: 1
    Greetings from Hawaii! With gas the way it is here! I feel your pain. I have an 04 Disco with 4.6 eng. I drive about 325 miles a week on 3/4 of a tank or about 20 gallons. The best advice I can give is keep the rpm's down in the bumper to bumper traffic. I try to keep it below 2000 rpm's. You might make the guy behind you mad, but it will save help save gas. All so I use Gunk fuel injector cleaner 2 times a month. Try to use your cruse control as much as you can. As for driving in 3 rd gear in traffic. I did not see any increase in mpg. So I stopped doing it. I also have a K@N air filter. That helped the most for me.
  • peeetepeeete Posts: 136
    The AIR FILTER made a significant difference?

    I wouldn't think it would mean that much.

  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    My '96 doesn't have a washer on the oil drain plug. For the diffs the factory puts on a bit of Hylomar to prevent leaks... it would probably work great for the oil pan too. Mine doesn't leak so I haven't tried it.

    I wonder if you got the wrong drain plug back after the oil change?
  • discomandiscoman Posts: 110
    Tex, Nanuq

    There is indeed a copper washer that is supposed to be in between the drain plug and the oil pan. It's copper so it will compress and fill in any uneven or scratched surfaces and prevent leaks. It should be replaced every time you change your oil. I always buy my K&N oil filters from and they include a new washer with each filter. I don't know about them replacing your pug with another. Most cars oil plugs are much smaller than your disco's. A point of trivia is that your drain plug is the same size as your lug nuts. or 1 1/8" Most other cars/trucks use a much smaller 9/16" oil plug. So if they replaced it, it was most likely a genuine one. Keep in mind that most times the plug does fall in the oil catcher pan, and they take it out and wipe it off with a rag. So it would look new, just because any road grime would be wiped off. :D
  • Nanuq,

    I have read the past 10 pages of this forum, and by all accounts you seem to be an expert on discos, which is why i am directing my question towards you.

    I have never owned a LR product. I have always heard they are unreliable. It is hard to quantify this statement, and looking on message boards isn't exactly the answer because most people who comment are complaining so the results are skewed.

    My wife is really wanting a LR. She has found one at a local dealer (not a certified LR dealer). It is a 1996 Discovery with 115k miles on it. The body is immaculate, no rust, dents, signs of repair. The inside is ok, with the exception of the leather being somewhat cracked and the plastic just below the gear shifter that is SUPPOSED to slide is stuck and the plastic broken. I test drove it and it performed quite nice with the exception of a "ticking" noise anytime the gas pedal is being engaged. Also the shifter for the 4 wheel drive hi/low is frozen.

    The price on it is right, at $4,800 (sticker was 6,500 for whatever that is worth). The dealer (who also runs a mechanic shop) said he would fix the shifter (he reiterated what you've said about it being caused by non-usage) and would look at the ticking noise (i have no idea what it could be as unfortunately i am car repair illeterate). Of course, I would have my own mechanic look it over (i'd take it to a LR dealer, but the nearest one is about 150 miles away).

    Is there anything I should look for or know about this model? Are they as unreliable as some would have me to believe? Are the repair bills ridiculously expensive? How many more miles should i expect it to last? Can you run 87 octane gasoline in it or is premium mandatory?

    Any info would be most appreciated, thanks.


    P.S. Although I directed this message to Nanuq, I'd be happy to listen to anyone who may have some info.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Ahhhhhh, I think you've found a good one. Mine has 98,000 HARD miles on it (extensive offroading) and nothing has ever broken offroad, period. Nothing. It has never stranded me or left me walking.

    A friend in California (Mike Green) owns West Coast British. Last time I talked with him (a couple years ago) he had 650,000 miles on his '96 with one rebuild.

    If you get a good one of these trucks, you're in for a treat. At 115k miles I think it's a good one. That's a lot of years of consistent use.

    My wife ADORES this truck... she says it's the most solid, most fun thing she's ever driven, and that includes a bunch of sporty cars and Mercedes. It has excellent outward visibility and it's very maneuverable. It also sucks gas so try to limit running around town in it! About that... sure you can burn 87 octane but it will eventually retard the timing a bit for self preservation... that just reduces performance a bit. Every 3 or 4 tanks give it the good stuff and let that clean out any deposits.

    Can you look up its history by VIN? The big thing to look for is sticking exhaust valves, tho that should happen within 30-40k miles. I bet it's been done.

    Have the compression checked. Make sure there are no leaks in the head gaskets. Check the fluids and see if they look nasty or if they've been maintained. Take a look beneath it... are the swivel balls leaky? HAVE they been leaky? Is there any 90w in the balls or are they dry? Have the diffs been changed? You'll see marks where fasteners are frequently loosened and replaced.

    The ticking could be a loose exhaust manifold / Y-pipe connection. Above the front diff there's a flange with 3 bolts and this can come loose. Same with the driver's side. Or it could be a cracked exhaust manifold, or a bad CV joint (see my comment about dry swivels) or the rear end of the aft driveshaft could be going bad at the Hookes joint... that's a screwy rubber/plastic piece that can break.

    If you are serious about it, consider a trip to a Quicky Lube place and have the transfer case and auto trans fluids replaced. Diffs too. That will tell you a lot about their condition. Look for "milky" hypoid lube from the diffs... that means it's been waded with leaky axle seals.

    Do the lifters tick? If they do then it's had long durations between oil changes... that says a lot too.

    One nice thing, these trucks are EASY to work on. Get a set of tools and learn to change your own fluids and brake pads. You'll love doing it. It really is easy. Change all the fluids at least every year, engine oil every 3k miles.

    At this age you're looking at replacing the alternator, power steering pump, perhaps the ABS pump, perhaps the rotors. These are each maybe $300 - $400 repairs. The ABS pump will be higher (or you can pull the ABS fuse and ignore it).

    You can do any of these repairs yourself. A mechanic could do any of these jobs in under 2 hours... you're looking at parts plus maybe $200 labor.

    My advice is to have your mechanic look it over closely. Check the history by VIN. Pull the OBDII codes and see how it's been running. If it all checks out, then take a chance on it... that's a good price and it has lots of life left in it.

    Good luck!
  • Nanuq,

    Thanks for the rapid response. I am printing out the info and taking that with me to my mechanic so he can look for what you mentioned. I'll let you know how it turns out (hopefully it won't be sold before I commit).

  • discomandiscoman Posts: 110

    Couple other things. Look underneath and take a good look at the mufflers and make sure they are in good condition. I hav a 96 also and aroung 109K miles on it. Everything works great. Had a couple bumps and grinds along the way, but everything is great now. Nanuq is right about the alternator. Just had mine replaced. Muffler, I replaced myself with a Borla. A bit pricier than an original, but it sounds really cool, has a bit more power, and increased my highway mileage. Also check the battery cables. Make sure they are in good condition. The plastic insulation tends to get brittle and crack with age, and then shorts out. Same with Spark plug wires. I just had to have my negative cable replaced. Some of the Disco 1's (Mine included) had a modifiation performed which replaced the 90W in the swivels with a heavy grease that never needs replacement, nor does it leak. Also there was a recent recall on the gas tanks. By the way Bob, Did you get yours replaced? After the mechanic fixed the diff lock, I would suggest shifting it once a month to lock, and back after a couple minutes, and shifting it into low at least once a quarter. This is if you don't off road all the time like Nanuq. I also recommend you replace the fuel filter about now too. It's not too hard to replace yourself, but you will need to remove the right rear wheel to do it. Best thing you can buy is the maintenance CD. It had ALL the information you will need as far as maintenance, repairs, parts, wiring, etc. I recommend using synthetic or synthetic blend oil, and if you don't off road all the time, 5000 miles is OK. Manufacturer says 7500. anything else you need to know we are all here to help each other (some of us anyway) I don't like the guys who do nothing but complain and whine. This forum is so we can share remedies as well as problems. Hope you get your truck. The 96's are really in demand.
  • Discoman,

    Thanks for the additional info. As I mentioned earlier, my mechanic abilities are lacking. I looked online and found the manuals you referred to, I've always wanted to learn how to work on cars and this could be my opportunity. The only thing holding me back at this point is my trade-in. It is a small dealer so he doesen't really like to carry alot of inventory, but he told me i could sell it on his lot on consignment. I got her cleaned up and am taking it over there today. I really hope it works out, as reading this forum has me excited about it.

    Thanks again,

  • I was confused earlier. It turns out it, it is a 1995. I don't know why I had 1996 in my head. Does that change anything? Is there much difference between the two?

    Oh, and just to clarify, the vehicle will seldom if ever be offroad, my wife just likes the way they look (of course, i may have to test it out on occasion)

  • Here is a pic of the actual one I am looking at.
  • discomandiscoman Posts: 110
    I'm not entirely sure, but I do know one of the differences is that the 95 has a 3.9L engine and the 96 started with the 4.0L. Also I am not sure bout the ignition. I think the 95 has a distributor, and then 9 has multiple coils. Mabe Nanuq or Tincup can go over some of the differences better than me.
  • riroverrirover Posts: 5
    Hey, Nanuq,

    You've got me all psyched up for tinkering with my truck. I just changed my transfer gear box oil. Put in a Valvoline synthetic. Think I'll change the plugs this weekend. I also desperately want to change the auto transmission fluid. I called Jake Kaplan's (local Rover dealer) - they quoted me $400 for a new filter and fluid - seems steep to me, but I understand that the filter change is complicated (the Hayne's manual doesn't even begin to explain the process - it just says "See Land Rover Dealer"). What if I leave the filter in there and just change the fluid every few months? Good enough, you think?

    One more question - anybody know of a weblink that details where the grease fittings are on Series 1?

    Dogcorleone, I have had my '98 (99000 miles) for 3 months now, and I'm loving it. Haven't taken her offroad yet - want to get the shocks replaced first - but will soon.

  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Do you know if the truck had its 65,000 mile service? You can look it up by VIN. If so they (should have) replaced the transmission filter. If so you're set... it's changed ONCE in your truck's life and then fluid changes only. These are tough transmissions. I just change fluids every year and it works great. To drop the pan and change the trans filter you have to spread the frame rails and remove the cross member ... a hydraulic jack and a couple pieces of 2x4 do the trick. If you do this, smear a big wad of Vaseline on the cross member and the frame rails before you slide it back in... that keeps water out.

    It's easy to change your swivels and diffs too... use your socket wrench for the diff plugs. Before you open up the swivels clean the plugs well so no dirt falls in the hole. Also turn the steering wheel hard over to the side you're working on so the toothed gear is not in the way of the new lube going in.

    Good luck! Also try OME shocks... Old Man Emu.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    SWEEEEEEEEEEET!!! BRG!!! (British Racing Green) And it has '96 wheels on it... it must be a late model. The rear bumper end caps aren't bent down (yet) and it hasn't had the antenna broken off (yet)! The front bumper end cap on the near side looks a bit strange where it parallels the green bodywork... is there damage there or has it just hit a snowbank and pushed the bumper up into the fender? I do that 100 times every winter. No biggie, it just pushes right back into place.

    It looks like it has the stock Dunlops, you can go a size taller for better ground clearance.

    One piece of good news: the 4.0 engine saw the advent of the GEMS system and that's when the exhaust valves begun sticking. Your 3.9L will NOT have that problem... no way. Make sure it's a 3.9 if it's a late '95 (I'm thinking so because it has '96 wheels on it).

    It looks like the passenger seat is reclined... is it broken? Are you SURE? That's expensive. And you'll love the leather on the interior... it's the absolute highest grade leather available worldwide, period. Two grades higher than Cadillac and that used on Jags and fine furniture.

    It looks like it has new rear springs... there's good wheel well clearance. Front springs might be a little low.

    Check the rear window electric lifts... do they work? Common problem with the ECU card behind the glove box failing a solder joint.

    You will also be pleased to know that it probably has heated seats. If there's no switch to activate them, it's easy to put one in. I think all '95 and '96 came with the elements in place... to get heated seats you just put in a switch to turn them on.

    Man that looks like a sweet Disco. I just showed my wife and now she wants to fly us down there, buy it, and drive it back up the Alcan to Alaska. :)

    Here's a shot of my Disco up by Byron Glacier. Cheers!

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