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(http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm)
If it didn't get fixed you should file a complaint with the NHTSA, this is where alot of people go to complain about this very problem. Maybe if they get enough complaints they'll make GM do something about it. Let us know what happened. It shouldn't matter if the vehicle is a '97 or '07, this problem has been around for years, they should have to take care of it. Thanks.
I have a 2000 Silverado, when I go to brake I push on the pedal and it won't go- anywhere- or starts to go down then it's like I hit a wall. the truck won't stop the pedal won't go down, I have to quickly relase then reapply and it will either work or sometime I have to pump again! what is it?
However the noise has come back after about 3000 miles anyone having similar trouble? What have you done.
thanks
:confuse:
70/rotor x 2 , assume your pads need replace 80/pads, and a few hours of time. Dealer should be the about the same with labor at 85/hr for 2.5 hrs
you might check my other posts i used SSBC rotors and pads package (photos)...they work great... that was 70K miles ago and only 30% used (city and highway 50/50)
Check out:
#36 of 68
Re: 2001 Silverado 1500 Brake Pulsation [sweetlb] by ttaupier1
Aug 09, 2007 (8:59 pm)
I had no warning lights when petal started to pulse at a slow speed mostly happened when I was coming to a stop Shop drove the truck with computer hooked up to find the problem There where no codes when checked
"As engineered"
To describe what I saw was that the rotor was rusting over from the outside >to> inside where one inch of shinny rotor metal was available for seating with the pads and calipers, should have been 2 inches approx. (mind you this was in 2001) his truck was one year old and was not stopping properly. His vehicle sat outside and was at a military base for several months while preparing for IRAQ.
I have had several post to describe the issue, GMC/CHEVY and GM designs with their breaking systems have fallen down. IT IS NOT every vehicle that this happens on just mainly their larger vehicles.
The Dealer tech (for my friends vehicle) said they were trained on the issue and know that it is a QUALITY SNAFU (Situation normal, "all flubbed/fouled up")
I started to see the same issue on my 2003 and felt the less than lack luster performance since day one. I feel the master cylinder is fine and the hoses are okay, pedal mechanics work fine.
I replaced the rear "calipers & rotors- and installed SSbrake lines),
front: i replaced the rotors....had the brakes done 75K miles ago ..and have had NO problem since.
My rotors are not rusting over and brakes work great for almost two years now, my dealer was approach to fix the issue several times, before i took action...they gave me the run around, and laughed at me no doubt after i left the service visit.
I have two small kids and could wait for the truck to have a incident to fix the situation
When the vibration occurs the truck will not accelerate as you can feel the brakes ceasing and holding the vehicle back. The steering wheel literally vibrates 1 - 2 inches each way, and when we apply the brakes to pull off the road the vibration maginfies causing the truck and steering wheel to violently vibrate and shudder, in turn making it very difficult to steer and stop, and the pulsation in the brake peddle is unbelievable; all o fthis while driving at 100 - 120 km/hr.
I know this is a huge safety issue and I fear everything will cease up one day, or I won;t be able to stop safely. I've been to the dealer too many times to count since we got the truck, and they are continuosly replacing / repairing front end brake components as the heat / friction from the problem has caused things to crack and warp. I've asked them to check the ABS module to see if it was malfunctioning, and the dealership can never get the truck to replicate the issue so they don't know what to do....plus it is causing the tires to wear excessively and feather due to the vibration at high speeds.
I know there are brake issues with GMC...I'm at a loss of what to do, has anyone had this problem and was it fixed, or maybe some suggestions or things I can ask the dealership to do...besides replace my vehicle as they aren't interested in that.
Thanks
I went to SSBC.com and bought the rear tri-caliper sets and Russel SS brake hoses kit, mind you this caliper upgrade was for the Rear ONLY...I used the SS brake hoses on the front as well. I also ordered the SSBC.com treated rotors package for all four wheels. I spent about 4 hours by myself doing a side at a time in my garage.
I now have no problem and the truck ...after 50K miles... still feels new even after sitting at the airport for three weeks straight, and no rusting over of the rear rotors
In my honest opinion have the dealer replace the rear calipers....see if this makes a difference and have them buy new rotors and pads for all 4 wheels..... , you might also go to Russel and buy the SS braided brake line kit this will also help the lines from feeling soft, and improve pedal feel, help with better braking habits...my wife has a lead foot when it comes to gas and brakes, helps her feel more in control
I have a huge problem with the rear calipers from the factory, and if i buy another GMC I will request the dealer upgrade the brakes and finance the SSBC package as part of the vehicle costs.
Brembo also makes a kit but with a significant price difference, the SSBC kit allows for standard wheel size and i think the brembo kit requires 18+ inch wheels and tires...
Not sure if you are doing the work yourself or with help, I believe the rear calipers are needing to be compressed, I cant remember, but I think you have to turn the piston to close them or to get them to close... you might pickup a truck maintenance or brake caliper manual for actual instructions.
Its been two years since I did mine and I don't work on them that often hopefully for another 100K miles. I believe to compress the rear caliper sets due to the design I think I had to compress the calipers a funny way to get the new rotor and pads to fit correctly and meet up (tight fit if I remember). When i replaced the rear calipers they came compressed from SSBC.com factory
I found this on a few sites: For the rear calipers, you will need to turn the piston clockwise(as you are looking at the top of the piston), about one or two turns and then compress the piston as far as it will go, the turn the piston again and then compress again, repeat until you are all the way to the bottom. I highly recommend the Kent Moore brake compression tool.
Hope this helps, I would also check to see if the part shipped was the part you ordered, and the part you actually needed.
Hope this helps
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/gm_silverado_brakes.html
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2006/02/gm_regional_recall.html
"A "class action" is a civil suit brought by one or more people on behalf of themselves and others who are similarly situated. In other words, the others are in a substantially similar circumstance where the common issues are the most critical to the lawsuit. For example, if a large number of consumers is injured as a result of an allegedly defective product, the principal issue will be whether the product caused the injury. Some examples of class actions are those brought against the manufacturers of allegedly defective or hazardous products, such as asbestos, certain vaccines, Agent Orange, tobacco, and breast implants. Only then will the question of how badly each party was injured be heard.
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Would like to know how many others have had their brake system fail because of rusting brake lines? Rusty routers, and anti-lock problems. Why there is not a GM recall to fix or a class action to correct if GM will not!
As a retired GM employe I am sad that GM has not stepped up to their brake problems.
I believe in most of my posts explain most of your thoughts based on experience an opinion
That's nuts. You should check out an independent mechanic. Even with replacing with all stainless steel hardware it would be no where near that price. And while I've heard of some having brake line issues I have never heard of that kind of price to replace. Most of the people that were having problems was due to salt on the roads.
Mine is a 2003, and yes mine is inside a garage all the time, I power washed the engine last week, and noticed many lines rusting and looking very ...(99K miles) old. Not sure WHY >> my truck is garaged 90% of the time. Looks like GM used sub standard steel lines from Vendor "D"...who used bad alloys.. cheepest supplier
6k seems very steep but then again if you have to do all the lines your looking at 8-10hrs of work, not to mention all the bending/fitting, that is if they don't make a kit to replace.. old lines. I love my truck an not planning on trading her in, but these brake issues really rub me the wrong way..
I have other posts here for the past few years with multiple break/brake posts
I've replaced my rotors twice and they need it again. My brake shop said the OEM stuff is junk, and the parking brake design is useless. Mine's been gone for years. I also had a brake line rot out before 100,000 miles, which I've never seen on any vehicle before. I remember the sales literature bragged about "aluminized" brake lines. That must have meant aluminum paint on the junkiest material they could find. It's criminal. I had it fixed, but now I don't trust the other lines. I need to keep the truck 2 more years. Where did your shop find the replacement hard lines? I'm considering stainless steel, but so far am only finding the braided flexible lines. GM should be held responsible for this. People have probably died already, but perhaps no one except we who own these trucks knows why.
there are several on line dealers for break lines.. I have not replaced mine, but was researching for sure over the past 4-6 months.
1) http://www.classictube.com/products.asp
2) http://www.inlinetube.com/ (<< seemed to have best inventory of prefab replacement)
good luck
Inline has nothing listed, Classic does, although I have to call to see if it's right, since the listing is vague. By the way, the URL for SSBC is http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/. SSBC.com gets you to the South Shore Baseball Club, which is a whole different matter. Did you do anything about the proportioning valve when you did your brakes? I'm tempted to follow your example. The new rotors and calipers are very pretty.
As far as the proportioning, no I did not changed anything, just the calipers, the setting was probably set up right from the factory, its just that the rear slider pins on the rear Calipers were rusted/frozen, (truck was 1.5 years old) and I felt that the RManufactured/rebuilt calipers might be the same as far as break response(very weak). So I just swapped the rear calipers and all the rotors on all 4 wheels. Also swapped the brake hoses for braided SS lines from Russel... very sweet response. Pedal feel is so solid my wife loves to drive the truck-she feels like shes in a nascar.. we both road in ...in Florida
This stuff was so easy to do I started wondering why GM just doesn't do something, I would gladly pay for an upgrade like this from the factory.. Brakes/tranny/engine/interior are the core of every vehicle
And in the next 3-4 years when I trade or sell the beast, I will be looking for a anther BRAND... They seem very lazy on the marketing and customer service/response side. and With todays economy customer loyalty will be the difference between a job or no job. (GM or no GM)
My dealer/sales guy knows everything I did, because I documented the work and gave several color copies packets of the documented work that the sales guy..he has been handing them out to some customers that can't get service to solve the issue...
What did you changed to get a solid feel on the pedal?