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Everything you said is pretty much what I know. The reason I described the ports and their location is because I'm seeing a bit of paradox here:
You wrote:
"the fitting should only fit the low pressure fitting"
I just checked (as a "dry run") and noted that the fitting only fit on one of the 2 ports, as you said. But guess what? It was the one "directly above the inlet tube leading to the air filter" and that tube happens to be the smaller one! This being the case, one would think this is on the high-pressure side, which in not where one would typically add refrigerant.
In terms of my location descriptions, can you (or anyone) confirm which port is "the one":
* one near the compressor itself
* one directly above the inlet tube leading to the air filter
You'd pretty much have to know the '97 Dakota (or be able to look under the hood).
I did, btw, confirm that the total charge is 32oz (2lb).
The HIGH pressure side goes from the AC pump, to the condenser. (looks like radiator in front of vechicle) and into reciever/drier (looks like coke can) then into firewall
The LOW pressure side comes from firewall, and into the AC pump.
While charging, you should to have guages installed and take constant readings to determine operation and charge-level.
This website has a quick overview.
If you do not understand how AC system works... perhaps you should not be messen with it.
Regards,
Dusty
Not sure if this is what you are hearing or not...
I've gotta say, the clamp Dodge uses is pretty robust. In fact, I was never able to find an aftermarket replacement that was anywhere near the size and heft of the original. The ones that AutoZone carry are way too whimpy.
Best regards,
Dusty
charlie
charlie
Have you cleaned and checked the Idle Speed Motor and pintle?
Regards,
Dusty
I have the same issue with my 98 Dakota. Please keep me updated if you receive an answer to this. I am not even sure the A/C works at this point as it all blows out the defrost vent.
Regards,
Mark
mgarback@ameritech.net
I am unsure as to whether it is the resistor or if the blower motor is going out in light of the blower's starting after getting to highway speeds. Is the AC or ambient air cooling the resistor enough to restart, or is the highway speed and air induction coming through the vents giving the blower motor enough oomph to start again?
Anyone have any ideas? Jim
In addition to the obvious AC settings, there are some "defrost" settings which also turn on the AC system. With this in mind, I almost NEVER put the selector in those positions to keep from loading the engine and consuming more fuel. I usually keep the selector in the "blow on the feet" setting just to have some air flowing thru the cab while NOT enguaging the AC.
As for your engine overheating with the AC on... make CERTAIN that the electric fan is running ALL THE TIME while the AC is enguaged.
As well, regarding the motor/clutch- it kicks on and off at least once a minute, or less- is that frequency normal?
Any suggestions about the fan? I'm going to hotwire it to test the fan itself, see if it even works.
Thanks,
Justin
2004 dodge dakota, v6
The compressor will cycle on & off depending on a number of variables. Get a thermometer with a 6" or so long probe and put it in the dash vent. Again there are variables but you should get somewhere between 35 and 50 degrees (set on recirc. or max AC) if the AC is working ok. If the temp is higher it might need freon. Your cycle frequency sounds ok.
I do not want to take the dash out if it is not needed.
MORE DETAILED INFORMATION PLEASE.
I have a dakota that has an overheating problem only when I tow or haul hvy loads. I have flushed the coolant and checked the radiatot also. Tonite I pulled the plugs and it looks like I am getting some water in the cylinders, not much, about 2-4 quart ver 6-18 mo.'s. In addition the thing overheated two weeks ago and I noticed the electric fan doesn't come on. The only way it comes on is if I start the A/C, I have also replaced the fan clutch. Any suggestions, I have heard craked Head, bad head Gasket etc., this has gone on over 2 years. The first problem was when it was under no load and on loan to a friend. Since, it has done it when pulling a 14ft. aluminum boat. I am at my wits end, I will be pressure testing the system tomorrow, and have replace the cap already.????
Could I have a line leaking? Again...the tank apparently held the pressure.
Thanks
Here in Vermont, the winters are cold and dry, there is never any need to enguage the AC compressor when using defrost. Also, the AC compressor loads the engine and reduces MPG.
With that said.... the 2000 Dakota has several settings which DO NOT enguage the AC compressor. With my 2000 Dak, I leave the knob set to "blow at floor" almost all year round. This DOES NOT enguage the AC compressor but DOES blow some air at the windshiled so it will defrost.
With everything in the car being computer controlled nowadays, there is no reason that they couldn't program in a "run the compressor every 30 days" algorithm into the BCM, or whatever it is that controls the compressor.
Just another example of having to put up with an inconvenience because of the general ignorance of most car owners.
But anyway, to shorten this story. I can get the blower to work full blast pumping wonderful amounts of heat with one little thing I discovered by accident. If I just barely apply pressure to the key in the ignition (without actually turning enough to restart it), the blower comes on full blast and turns wonderfully. Should I assume there are some bad contacts in the ignition switch, or is my action creating a circuit that shouldn't be made under normal circumstances. I know this is a strange question, but any input would be appreciated.
D.P.
Not sure why, any ideas?
If i turn it to all windshield vent ( defrost ) it works, and split windshield and floor vent it works,it just does not work on the face vents.
I popped off the dash cover and removed the controller assemble to check the vacuum line leading to the back and there all connected, non looked blocked or cracked, and nothing was kinked either.
Does anyone have a HVAC vacuum line diagram, so I can see what color vac line controls the face vents?
any help would be awesome! I'm not looking forward to taking this issue to the dealer, I know they will rip me off for this repair!
thanks.
I NEED SOME PICS! DIAGRAMS SOMETHING!!!
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