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Does your horn work? If not, the airbag light may be due to a bad clock spring, which is what maintains the electrical connection between your steering column and wheel.
Master plumber/heat/AC huh? I need to install my boiler to the radiant heating system in my house.... including all the manifolds, etc. Do you know of any books that explain this process? I cannot seem to find any; or, it may be that I am using the wrong search terminology.... :sick:
The connector for the HVAC controls is located just behind the space where your lights are blinking. A few screws holds that portion of the console in place; remove them, pull the face plate forward, and you cannot miss the connector. But, it may simply be the clock spring that is causing your problems, since the controls for cruise are located on the wheel, too! The blinking console lights may indicate that you need to run the diagnostics on the HVAC (I listed those a couple months ago somewhere on this forum.... ). That process is pretty simple and will tell you if there is a problem. The good news is those blinking lights will not affect the driveability or operation of the van or its components.
As for the boiler, no, this is a new installation. The only parts of the system that I have are the tubes in the concrete and the boiler itself (a condensing, oil-fired Monitor). I have to do all the installation including the zone control thermostats, valves, manifolds, etc. I usually find myself a good book and learn that way, but I cannot seem to find one for hydronic heating systems. :confuse:
There is a Johnstone Supply in Anchorage, which is a mere 350 miles away. I will check them out this winter when I am next down that way.
Thank you for your very detailed and thorough response.
I could be wrong, but I don't think it is the speedometer and tacometer cable because the symptoms are a little more severe. It it's mildest form, the lights on the dashboard (gear indicator, mileage indicator) just flicker. When it is having a "bad episode", all the dials spin, warning lights ping on and off, radio goes on and off, DVD sysytem starts and stops, HVAC system pulses air (while in the off position), headlights flicker...and now it completely shuts down while I'm driving. This is obviously a problem as it is hard to maneuver a moving van with no power steering or power brakes. And as an added bonus, which I discovered 2 days ago, the hazard lights appear to not work either when there is a complete loss of power. As the dark powerless vehicle comes to a stop, I have heard a clicking noise- to me it sounds like the noise an ignition makes when your battery is dead and the car doesn't turn over. I have only heard that noise once, it's possible it has happened other times and I haven't noticed as my main concern is to get my car off the road safely.
These problems are intermittant. There does not seem to be a correlation between moisture in the air, or temperature differences. When I have brought it in to the shop, they have on occasion seen "the issue" but then when they hook up their machines it is fine. The van usually behaves itself for a few weeks to a few months after such visits to the shop.
Do you still think it could be the sodor? My thoughts are I am going to try to get it to "behave" and trade it in this weekend!
Bad/corroded socket or a loose wire.
CU's recommendations varies a lot with the size/type of the battery. In thr group 34/78, they liked the Sears Diehard Platinum, but it's expensive - $180. The Napa Select 84 and Autocraft Titanium were both around $80.
When the van is started and the engine is running, we loose power to power windows, the HVAC blower, wipers, and radio. For a short while, this was an intermittent condition while driving with no reason -- these components would go on/off for no rhyme or reason driving around town. This weekend, this condition seems to be permanent when the engine is running, i.e., these components do NOT work at all with the engine running.
Here's the kicker -- when we turn the key to the ON position, and the engine is not running, all functions return!
I've checked all fuses & relays and all visually appear to be okay. In a darkened garage, when the headlights are on, I can see them flicker somewhat when at a low rpm. From the research I've done thus far, I've seen this might be a bad BCM, ignition switch, alternator, or even something else.
What might the problem be and how should I fix it?
Thanks!
Rob
I'm hoping the BCM version number is visible so I can order it and replace it if necessary.
Here is some info....
http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...#ixzz0Oi0HeCUX
The following comes from the above link (when the web page is retrieved, click on Read More to view the entire troubleshooting process):
K99140943
Vehicle Issue: Radio, power windows, wipers inoperative with engine running. If ignition key in run position but engine off everything works.
Year: 2005 | 2004 | 2003 | 2002 | 2001
Model: RS - Caravan, Voyager, Town and Country
Category: Customer Concern (No DTCs)
System or Component: Radio | Cigar Lighter / Power Outlet | Power Windows | Wiper / Washer System
Symptom: Inoperative
Condition Verification: Yes - Continuously
Case Verification: While the ignition switch is in the START position the accessory relay will drop-out and resume operation when the ignition switch goes back to run.
The accessory relay controls the operation of the radio, power windows, washer motors, wiper motors and power outlet (almost anything inside of the passenger compartment).
The ignition switch supplies power in the START position only on the T751 circuit (20 gauge, Yellow) to cavity 2 of the IPM C7 connector and then to cavity 19 of the FCM. This shuts down the Accessory relay until power is removed.
That very same 751 circuit also provides power to the Starter relay at terminal 86. It also exits the IPM through cavity 3 of the C3 connector and goes straight to the PCM at cavity 30 C1 connector.
Recommendation: While your condition is occuring, check for voltage on the T751 circuit. If there is voltage the Accessory relay won't function. With the engine still running, remove the starter relay and see if the accessory relay starts working. The bottom line is you have to find the source of the voltage on that circuit and eliminate it.
Modification Date: 05/10/05 12:49 PM
Good Luck....let us know how you make out.
Right on the money.
After removing the battery and the tray, that's what I discovered too! Corrosion galore. I was afraid that the nuts securing the tray would dissolve into powder, but I got them off intact.
Where is this blue and yellow striped wire roughly here? Do I need to unwrap some of the bundles to access it?
When you unwrap the black taping around the harness, clean up the acid with baking soda mixed in a little water. The damaged wire was not easy to see immediately until I cleaned everything up.
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It will resize the image to one that will fit on the page without losing any text.
I didn't check under my battery to verify corrosion yet, but do you think that could be the same problem? Even with these two new details (RPM and rear wiper) ?
Thanks
What should I check first to solve this issue?
Thanks
Any ideas?
Thank you and God bless you!
Tara :sick:
I am going to get my regular mechanic look at the corroded wire under the battery option........maybe it is the cause????
I have some news on this. I tried to replace the EATX and STARTER relays with new ones but didn't have any effect.
Yesterday afternoon I started up the car and everything was working again. But I didn't do anything, it got fixed by itself. Last week was raining a lot here in Iowa and I think that some moisture got inside the relays or any circuit and since stopped raining I think that the moisture is gone and the system is back to work.
basically the same as you install updates on your computer apps.
However only the dealer can do it.
After you park the car knowing it's not going to be driven for a week or more, disconnect the battery at the negative terminal. Then, hook it back up when you're ready to drive it and see if the car starts. If it does, then the 3mA measurement was probably made after the source of the leak, or maybe the value was really 3 amps?
I'm not surprised that replacing the fuse box did not fix the problem.