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Kia Sedona Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems



  • jirkajirka Posts: 15
    1. Towing to the nearest shop is covered by the warranty. Just call the hotline.

    2. How did they fix it the first time? In my case they first cleaned the TPS (if I understand it right it is the thing that communicates the info from your accelerator to the engine) which helped for few hours :), they replaced it the next day and I haven't have problems since.
  • mattonemattone Posts: 5
    They ended up replacing the throttle body assembly, which they said included the TPS, so I was confident this would resolve the problem, it also looks like they replaced the ETC Actuator and the ETC Gasket. Unfortunately I didn't get 3 miles from the dealer and the same problem reoccurred with one of them (we are waiting for it to happen again to the other, its like walking on thin ice every time we drive it, but we need something to drive). Now its back in the shop and I feel like no one has any idea what is wrong with these 2 vans much less how to fix them. Can I really have such bad luck that I happen to have 2 vans with this exact same problem and no one else has seen this problem?
    the codes that came up again, were p2106, p2195 and p2135.
  • gatottengatotten Posts: 8
    Replacing all of that stuff is OK - if you are still under waranty; however, the problems you are describing sound like a fuel pump failure. It is a known flaw in the pump design. The pump grinds itself into very fine metal particles, you start the car and drive and it's OK for a short while or until you try to accelerate onto the highway, then the metal clogs the filter (which is better than allowing it into you injectors!) and the car stops running. You let it sit for a while, the metal particles fall off the screen filter and your car will appear to start and run normally but it will fail again. If you are close to the end of the waranty insist that your dealer pulls the fuel pump and checks the filter screen. A second possible cause, but not as likely, is the Mas Air Flow (MAF) sensor. If one of the wires shorts out the car's computer goes into "limp" mode. (Adding Viagra to the gas tank will not help!) ;^)
  • jirkajirka Posts: 15
    I do not know how long you have your car and what is the lemon law in your state. But: if I am not mistaken, in Ohio, if you have the vehicle for less than 12 mos (or the problem was first discovered in that period) and the problem is DANGEROUS they have only ONE chance to repair it (they have more chances in other cases). They tried yours 3times and it is still not OK. And it is dangerous - going into a limb mode without warning while in the left lane on a freeway is very dangerous. So if I were you I would check the lemon law in your state and then get your money back.... You can use it to buy a new Kia or Honda or whatever ...
  • mattonemattone Posts: 5
    Unfortunately they are used, and from what I have read regarding the lemon laws they only apply to new cars.I got my car back today after 5 days at the dealer, they replaced the ground bolts the tech said a couple of the grounds were rusted and that may have caused the problem. This was a recommendation from Kia and apparently they realized this problem was out there. The part number were GD8, G19, and G29. They also reflashed the ECM per Update. Frankly, I would be SHOCKED if this worked, but when the tech explained it to me it did make sense. And I was able to drive it home. If this doesn't work I will be asking about the fuel pump. But with under 20,000 miles on it I can't imagine how it can be the issue described above, involving the fuel pump
  • We had the same problem with our 2006 Kia Sedona at about 25,000 miles. The problem repeated about 5 times and got worse each time. It took a couple of trips to the dealership, but they finally figured out the problem. They replaced both the Accelerator Pedal assembly and the sensor on the engine that the accelerator pedal connects to. That was about 5,000 miles ago and we have not had the problem since.
  • Here is a more detailed description of what happend to us:
    We had a problem with our 2006 Kia Sedona at about 25,000 miles.
    - Suddenly the gas stops responding. The car slows down.
    - The Check Engine and ESC-OFF lights turns on.
    - The engine continues to run but nothing happens when you push the accelerator pedal.
    - Turning the engine of and the restarting fixed the problems temporarily.

    The problem repeated about 5 times and got worse each time. The first time we shut down and restarted it worked fine for about 50 miles. By the fifth time it happened it ran only about a mile before it happened again.

    It took a few trips to the dealership, but they finally figured out the problem. They replaced both the Accelerator Pedal assembly and the sensor on the engine that the accelerator pedal connects to. That was about 5,000 miles ago and we have not had the problem since.
  • mattonemattone Posts: 5
    It sounds like a number of us have a very similar issue, but it sounds like we are all given different solutions from our dealers. Your situation sounds identical to mine. Both of mine 08 Sedonas are running fine now, but as I said I have no faith that they have found the fix. So next time, I will suggest your service departments idea and hope that works. You would think Kia would be able keep all their mechanics informed. Thanks for the suggestion
  • bikash007bikash007 Posts: 10
    I am very close to buying a Kia Sedona. But reading the comments in this forum I am really scared. In the past I drove a Mercedes and a Toyota. They never gave me any weird problem. I put more than 200K on my Toyota without a single unusual problem. But reading the post, I think I am signing up for a death warrant. What would you guys advise me? I would rather spend another 10 grand and buy a safer vehicle for my family than buy a death machine that stalls on the highway.
  • gatottengatotten Posts: 8
    "....than buy a death machine that stalls on the highway". You already answered your own question. The Kia is HEAVY, gas mileage isn't great, electrical problems that appear to rival the legendary 1990 VW Corrado - why buy a Kia? Chrysler's new minivans are being sold at reduced the top of the line, leather seats, large v6 - more bang for the buck. My son kept his Kia because he was upside down on the loan so it was fix it or take a loss. WIth Kia's poor reputation the resale value has dropped. Even is you don't like the Chrysler minvan - at least drive one for comparison to the other models before you buy. (no, I don't work for a car mfg. or dealer)
  • I bought my first car in 1975 and have purchased over 20 vehicles since then, both new and used. While many of them have had the usual minor problems, none has ever had the number of serious safety problems that our 2006 Kia Sedona has experienced. From the headlights that both quit working without warning, to the total loss of power while driving on a busy interstate, this is not a vehicle that I would ever recommend a person to buy. In reading the forums I find that these problems are not unique to my particular van, but with Sedona's in general.

    Do yourself a big favor and pick another vehicle.
  • bikash007bikash007 Posts: 10
    Thanks a lot for helping me make the right decision. I am going to buy a Honda odyssey LX instead, which may cost me couple of grand more, but will ensure that my family is safe.
  • jimjimjjimjimj Posts: 5
    Actually, it'll probably cost you 6000-10000 more for a comparable vehicle, but I don't blame you and would do the same thing today if I could as it will have a much better resale value.

    I just wish/hope some one who gives a darn at Kia reads this and realizes they are shooting themselves in the foot by ignoring this issue and buyers like you will not buy a Kia and understandably pay a premium for for a Honda or Toyota.

    Pretty shortsighted of them; penny-wise, pound foolish for sure.
  • jirkajirka Posts: 15
    I am not sure. I wanted to buy Honda Odyssey, but ended buying Sedona, because it has better crash ratings. It was hard for me to ignore the fact that the difference in crash ratings is in the second row where my kids sit. The door on Odyssey just got out from the hinges in the tests.

    The problem is that Sedona is safer when the crash occurs, and Odyssey is more reliable, so it might be easier to avoid the crash (it is not very safe to switch into a limb mode while driving on the freeway). Hard to say.
  • stushstush Posts: 62
    You should go into the Honda Odyssey forum. Look at all of the complaints about the transmission failing. It seems Honda doesn't want to admit they have a problem, make your own decision.
  • rstoffmanrstoffman Posts: 1
    I turn the start key and all I hear is "click"! The starter does not respond at all.
    After repeated "turn start key" actions (might take 10 - 15 times), the starter eventually respond and the engine works properly. The phenomena happens all the time, the battery is in a very good condition. Can anybody advise here.
  • lavrishevolavrishevo Posts: 312
    The solenoid in the starter is going bad. This is the part that engages the starter. On some starters the solenoid is on the outside and can be replaced while keeping the starter but most are now built into the starter. So, soon you will have to buy a new starter or have yours rebuilt.
  • pl411pl411 Posts: 6
    My van runs OK but has a very loud vibration when idling while in gear. It's so loud that I often pop it into neutral when I stop at a red light. Also, it seems to be a bit harsh when accelerating, though that one might just be me being overly sensitive. I purchased my 2006 Sedona a few months ago with ~42k miles. It now has 46k miles. I do not recall it doing this at first, but it has been doing it for a few months now. Has anyone else experienced this problem? What was the fix?
  • likellehlikelleh Posts: 35
    Ok here is one for all of you. I have a 2006 Sedona EX that I love and basically have had minimal problems with. HOWEVER, In the past 4 months,when i have gone to put the key into the ignition, it won't go in! After playing with the steering wheel for sometimes up to 15 mins it eventually will go in. Intermitantly at first and now more consistant When it happened this past weekend i found that when it does happen I could still turn the steering wheel and that it wasn't in a locked position. In the past few days it has become worse and now I can't take the key out of the ignition in fear it won't go back in again. I have had it to my dealership twice before and because, " they can't duplicate the problem" have not been able to do anything. I called them again yesterday and now I will be dropping it off Wed night and they are going to see if they can figure it out now that we know the steering will not lock when it does it. Fortunately for me, I have an extra car I can use. Has anyone ever hear of anything like this? The dealer I go to is great, but they have never seen anything like this before?.
  • likellehlikelleh Posts: 35
    Update...Well took it to the dealer and for the 3rd time heard the proverbial "we can't seem to duplicate the problem.". Well those words aren't the ones i want to hear so I told the Service manager i was only 15 mins away and would be right over. When i got there I talked to him for a few minutes and he gave me the key and told me to see if i could duplicate the problem. The first few times i put the key in nice and smooth...took it out for a short drive and parked it. Key again went in smooth. Took it for a 10 minute drive, did a hard u-turn to get the steering wheel to completely turn, brought it back to the dealer, pulled a hard turn with the wheel till it could go no more and shut the car off. Guess what! Key wouldn't go in. I went in and got the service manager and he came out. His thought that the small hinged pin inside the ignition cyclinder is sticking and so he is ordering it and will have to take it back next week for replacement...I'll keep you posted.
  • New to the forum and thanks to all for the helpful info on here. Own a Sedona 2007 EX and it has about 16K miles. Very happy with a loaded vehicle that we obtained for a great price. Sunroof leaked on day 2 but more on that later. Recently it would not start and I kept jumping it. Tried all sorts of combinations as to turning power off to the doors and liftgate but if left for more then 18 hours it went dead. Went to Kia in Portsmouth, NH, where we purchased it. The service manager was very helpful. It appears that Kia does some, well, weird (read: not very smart) design things when it comes to power. When you first turn on the car the Instument Control Module ("ICM") is in charge of all the icons that display on the dashboard and for maintaining master control over the vehicle's power needs. In most cars, when you turn them off power is briefly retained so you can, say, close the windows (for just one example) for about 10-20 seconds. Kia, in it's wisdom, retains the power for much longer. Don't know for exactly how long, or WHY??, but it's for minutes not seconds. So, the ICM continues to draw power from the battery even after you've shut the vehicle down, locked it, and went into your house. In my case though the ICM isn't shutting off and it's draining the battery completely. The ICM is a rather expensive part to replace and the dealer has only had to do one before that malfunctioned as ours does. Thankfully, we are under warranty, he ordered the part (no dealer stocks it as it's too expensive), and they will replace it on Friday. Kudos to the service manager at Bourneval Kia for doing the right thing, even if it is under warranty, and not screwing us around by just giving us another battery and wishing us good luck. Will let you all know if it solves the problem.

    As to the sunroof, if you have one and it's from 2005 or later, read on. So, I'm sure all know that no sunroof is designed to be watertight or airtight. Rather, when water lands on the sunroof there are a series of channels that the water flows into and out of the car unseen. Not so for us and we watched the water leak onto the front seat belt on the passenger side. This was the clue as it was only on the passenger side and leaking exactly where the front side air bag is loaded and bolted next to the A-pillar, slightly above and to the rear of the front passenger. Kia's design here could be a lot better. What Kia does when they make a car with a sunroof is to first install the drainage tubes that handle any water flow on a rainy day. Btw, the design of the tubes is poor all by itself, but should still work. Then, after the tubes are installed along the roofline, they install the side airbag assembly and bolt it in several places to the same approximate location as the drainage tubes. Of necessity, they bolt it well and tighten it. As they tighten the air bag assembly it begins to constrict the drainage tubes and water cannot flow to the aft of the vehicle and then down and out. Rather, it goes to the path of least resistance and drops vertically down into the car about where the front passenger seat belt resides. So, not only will Kia being replacing my instrument control module on our Sedona but will have to take off the entire front side air assembly, repair/replace the drainage tubes, and rebolt the assembly .

    I posted this in the hope that it will help others who have similar problems. We bought our Kia because we felt it had great value for the money, looked good, and our only complaint (besides what's being fixed as noted above) is the crappy mileage. No way does it meet the 18-25 listed. That said, the warranty convinced us and now that warranty is paying off big time. Wish we didn't need it but we do and Kia (Bourneval) in Portsmouth, NH, is doing the right thing. We'll see how it goes and just hope this dealership stays alive; Kia dealers seem to be dropping like flies in this economy. Hope this is helpful. - CK
  • lavrishevolavrishevo Posts: 312
    Good post Clark. As far as the MPG goes you will see an improvement with additional mileage, but if I may offer some advice.

    First, tire pressure is always a little gain. I suggest right around 36 PSI. My tires have a max pressure of 44 but with just 3 - 5 extra PSI you will have less rolling resistance and hence better MPG and longer tire life.

    Second, is go with a K&N washable air filter and if your slightly brave remove the air-restricting filter right before the MAF sensor in the intake tube. Very easy to do, here is my instructions:

    Third, Go with a full synthetic oil like Mobile One or similar. Synthetic oil not only last longer but lubricates much better and has shown to improve gas mileage as well as improve power. Same can be said about the K&N.

    Fourth, and really this is the most important, is driving habits. The ONLY way your going to get 18/25 or better which, I achieve on my 2006, is by keep your foot off the gas pedal. Letting the engine shift right around 2000 RPM's and keeping the your speed limit at 65 MPH or under with not fast starts will give your great gains in MPG. Not easy to do with a powerful engine that is fun to use. Give this a try for a week and see your results. Remember though, it is all about nice and easy starts and stops in traffic and letting the engine shift at low RPM's. I have seen as high as 30 MPG in ideal conditions. Also, Edmund's highest mileage on the 2006 long-term test was 29 MPG @ 25,000 miles. Seems the 3.8's take a while to break in.
  • Similar to our 2007 Hyundai Entourage (same vehicle). Key goes IN but won't turn. Sometimes takes 30 minutes. Have tried putting the key in and out multiple times, turning the key over, using a different key, and remote starting it first - no difference. Took it twice and they said "no problem". On the 3rd visit I was finally able to show the Service Manager the issue and he was able to replicate it - but said there was nothing he could do. I finally went to the GM who contacted Director of Service who is contacting Hyundai Field Engineering Services about this. We cannot afford for my wife to get stuck someplace if I am travelling. The Dealer treied to tell me it wasn't covered by the warranty. They changed their mind. :-)
  • I have heard of the key problem not turning. It's actually a lock mechanism in the car and there is a little cover you can pop to the right of the shift to unlock the steering lock to get the key to turn. I just can't get the key in period. It's like the small lock bar in the cylinder get stuck. Still very frustrating on both issues when you can't start the car when you want to. My dealer is replacing the cylinder and has to co ordinate with a lock smith to replace. Right now they are trying to wait till I call them because they will be picking up the tab for telling me the first few times nothing was wrong. :(
  • cgdcgd Posts: 1
    Hi-we have had very similar problems with our 2006 Sedona. ESC-OFF light comes on and the accelerator does not function. Stopping and restarting the car seems to get things going. The codes that came up were P2106, P1295 and P2135. On 8/25 the dealership replaced the TPS and reprogrammed the ECM. Things were good until a few days ago, and then the same thing happened again (!).

    Did the grounding problem that you mentioned fix the problem? Have you had any more of these issues with your Sedonas since April?
  • When we had the problem, the dealership replaced both the TPS and the actual gas peddle assembly. Apparently the peddle assembly includes some electronic sending unit that connects by wire to the engine. That was over a year ago and the problem has not re-occurred.
  • Was recently driving on the highway (with my two infant children) when while going up a slight incline the van started to miss and hesitate. I pulled over-rev'd the engine hoping it would clear out any richness-this did not work. I shut the engine off - waited a few seconds and restarted-still the engine felt like it was missing. Finally after allowing the engine to sit (not running) for a minute, I restarted it and it ran fine. Drove it for approximately another 30 miles will no problem.. This has occurred twice with this vehicle. Has anyone had a similar problem??
  • I have a 2007 Kia Sedona that over the course of the past 2 months has had the check engine light go on and off and sometimes when the van is not fully warmed up will act as if it is miss firing. I took the van to a local mechanic and asked him to do a full tune up but he would not do a tune up instead he said he ran a diagnostic test and told me it was the throttle position sensor that needed replaced. I guess the mechanic took me on this because that did not fix the problem. I just had another scan test done today and it showed miss fires in cylinders 1, 2 and 3.
  • huerohuero Posts: 5
    Hey check engine light came on no signs of any problems took it to auto zone and they said code read throttle position sensor heres my problem car in texas with buddy and not sure if it will make it home approx. 750 miles nonstop hate to have somebody else work on car also does anybody know where it is located appreciate any help
  • I have a 2005 Kia Sedona and just had a misfire in cylinder 4. We moved the spark plug wires around and it was then a misfire in cylinder 6. The problem was the coil pack. We had that replaced by Kia and it fixed the problem. Unfortunately, there are 3 coil packs and each one costs over $100, without labor costs. So, it is only a matter of time before the other 2 go bad.
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