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Thanks
Thanks for the info. jammon1. I have to take it in soon due to excessive brake squeal. I will mention this info.
Too bad the new (larger engine) BMW X-5 isn't a little bigger!!!
larry
As for the AC light during auto mode, it will go on or off as the system determines the need for it.
They did the update while changing the oil and the result is a noticeably smoother take-off from a dead stop and smoother shifting between gears. It costs nothing and only takes an additional 15 minutes.
Its worth checking into next time you're into the dealer for any service.
I have not noticed the clunk.
Larry
The whine is a fairly normal gear noise. I would rather keep the whine than have the dealer change out the differentials. Just my opinion.
Chevydude, have you heard anything else regarding this?
I live in Central Oregon at the base of the Cascade mountain range. The western part of the state has had rain for a month, but it comes down as snow on the east side. We have had continuous snow and ice for almost three weeks now.
I commute about 60 miles round trip and the DXL has been great. I put a set of studless snow tires on it and it goes anywhere. Even freezing rain has been no problem. The traction is almost scary. It handles even better than are Quattro. That's why I hate to take it in for these little annoying problems.
Again, GM has missed the little touches. The Audi has an indicator on the dash that lets you know when the vehicle's traction control is coming on due to loss of traction. This would be nice in the Denali. It lets you know that it may be time to slow down.
As a side note, for those of you with Yukon XLs, Subs and Denali XLs, the third row seat overhead light does not have on/off reading light switches. This can be easily upgraded by ordering the second row light with switches from http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/. The part #s are 15765710 for the Tan interior, 15044370 for Shale and 15765711 for Pewter. The light runs about $21.00 plus shipping.
To install, turn off the overhead dome lamps at the dash. The old lamp is easily removed by using a small screwdriver to open the lens of the existing lamp (look for the small notch to pry the lens open). This will enable the light to simply be pulled down from the ceiling. Disconnect the wire plug from the old lamp.
Next take a pair of strong scissors and simply cut the ceiling along the lines impressed into the ceiling by the original lamp (the old lamp is smaller than the new lamp). Plug the wire connector into the new lamp and test the lamp briefly by turning on the overhead lamp switch at the dash. Reinsert the new lamp into the larger opening with the lens open. Once the lens has been closed, the new lamp with switches will be locked into place.
Its an inexpensive upgrade that will enable your third row passengers to do some reading or coloring on any long trips at night. Unfortunately, you can't perform the same upgrade on the cargo area lamp unless you run a ground wire from the third row lamp and change the wire connector to incorporate this extra ground wire.
I understand perfectly what u are saying re the Denali, I love it too, but are really ticked off about the seemingly little touches that the GM designers forgot. Maybe they didn't forget, but didn't think necessary, anyway, maybe Lutz can shape them up????? Also Fit and Finish is a bone of contention, it's really POOR. However, after listening in on the Sequoia forum and the problems some of those folks are having, i mellow somewhat about my tyrates about GM. Guess none of the auto mfg's really have it all together.
Larry
built in Canada. Not sure if that has anything to do with assembly quality but I wanted to bring that up since I think most or all Denali's are built in the US.
Anyway, this truck is the only new vehicle I have never had mechanical or warranty related items to address. It is just as pleasurable to drive as my 99 Lexus GS (which had numerous warranty issues) and I am thinking about selling the Lexus and just driving the C3. Anyway, just thought I would jump in with my comments since our vehicles are pretty similar. Just wish the C3 and the Denali's came in more color choices (I only had 3 choices)
Jason
If equipped to me indicates its an option. I thought the the DXL only had two options. Moon roof and center buckets.
Also, can somebody explain what the black female plug under the dash on the drivers side is for?
The outside temp is now 44 degrees. Fan was blowing hot air under two minutes after engine was running. Never had a heater work that fast in any other vehicle. Not bad.
I'm not sure what the female plug is, however I suspect its for the service computer to be plugged into when diagnosing and servicing the vehicle.
Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Driver's Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal)
1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Silverado, Sierra) and Utility (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) Models
2002 Cadillac Escalade
Condition
Some customers may comment that the passenger side of the vehicle may be:
Colder than the driver's side when the heat mode is on.
Warmer than the driver's side when the air conditioning (A/C) mode is on.
There may be dampness on the vehicle dash assembly when the A/C mode is on.
Cause
Condition may be due to poor sealing of the HVAC air inlet case to the front of dash or the recirculation mode door actuator may not hold the recirculation door closed while driving.
Correction
Replace the recirculation door actuator (if necessary) and repair the HVAC case to cowl seal using the following procedures:
Place the A/C control in the manual heat mode.
Remove the fixed mast radio antenna.
Open the hood and install fender covers.
Remove both wiper arm assemblies using the following procedure:
Disconnect the washer solvent hose from the air inlet grille panel nozzle.
Remove the cover from the wiper arm retainer. Remove the retainer.
Important
Use a battery terminal puller in order to remove the wiper arm.
Rock the wiper arm back and forth in order to loosen the arm from the drive shaft. Remove the wiper arm.
Lower the hood.
Remove the air inlet grille panel using the following procedure:
On each end of the air inlet grille panel is a rubber flap for the hood hinge cutout. Lift this flap and remove the air inlet grille panel attaching screw.
Remove the air inlet grille panel center top push pin.
Remove the clips that position the forward edge of the grille panel to the top of the cowl.
Disconnect the windshield washer supply hose from the bottom of the grille panel.
Remove the air inlet grille panel by sliding the panel rearward up the windshield and out.
Just to the left of the right hood hinge, on the horizontal surface of the cowl, locate a cover that is sealed in place. The cover has TRW stamped into it.
With a sharp knife, cut out the panel following the panel impression in the sealer tape.
Place a lifting device between the cover and the dash. Lift the cover enough to allow another tool to depress and release the front retaining tabs by pushing rearward on them. Remove the cover.
Look through the opening where you just removed the cover. You will see what looks like a piece of foam about 76 x 127 mm (3 x 5 in). This is the A/C recirculation door that is within the HVAC module.
Reach into the opening and carefully pull on the air inlet recirculation door. If the recirculation door moves with very little effort, replace the air inlet (recirculation) door actuator (Manual systems only). For systems with the Automatic Temperature control, initialize the system using published Service procedures.
Between the top of the HVAC air inlet module (appears as a 6 mm (1/4 inch) black strip) and the cowl sheet metal is a foam seal. This foam seal may be improperly positioned or damaged in some way (insufficient crush/sealing). This may allow outside ambient air to enter the passenger compartment incorrectly (under driving conditions). This can be corrected using the following procedure:
Important
It is imperative that a good seal be achieved over the entire surface areas (no voids or skips), especially around the rear and sides of the HVAC case to cowl areas.
Seal the area between the cowl and HVAC case with RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant, P/N 12345739 (in Canada, use P/N 10953541).
Using your finger, from the engine side of the cowl, ensure that the foam is stuck nicely to the HVAC module and does not have any distortions.
From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, place a shop cloth into the opening and cover the blower fan. This keeps silicone from dripping onto the motor and causing an imbalance condition.
From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, apply the RTV silicone to bridge the gap and cover the foam between the cowl sheet metal and the HVAC module case. Inspect your work with a light and a mirror. Ensure that no gaps or skips are present in the RTV seal.
Inspect your work for potential drips, runs, etc. If no problem is seen, remove the shop cloth covering the blower motor.
Apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive, P/N 12345097 (in Canada, use P/N 10953479) around the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, where the cover fits into the cowl.
Place the cover on the workbench, top on the surface, and apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive on the edge of the cover.
Place the cover into the cowl opening and snap into place.
Apply another bead of weatherstrip adhesive around the joint between the cover and the top of the cowl. Smooth this bead into a smooth surface with a finger or tool of some kind.
Place the leaf screen to the cowl. Attach the washer supply hose to the bottom of the air inlet grille panel. Do not place the fasteners in at this time.
Install the radio fixed mast antenna. Tighten 1/4 turn after contact is made with the base.
Lower but do not close the hood.
Center the opening in the air inlet grille panel around the antenna mast and then install the air inlet grille panel retaining screws. Tighten
Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (18 lb in).
Raise the hood.
Reinstall the air inlet grille panel center retainer and front edge retaining clips.
Cycle the wipers to ensure the wiper system is in the parked position.
Important
Inspect the windshield lower edge on each side. About 51-76 mm (2-3 in) from the bottom, you will find a 13 mm (1/2 in) long black mark embedded in the glass. The black line is the position for the wiper blade to be in when the wiper system is in the parked position.
Install the wiper arm assemblies. Position the wiper blades just below the black marks in the windshield.
Install the retaining nuts. Tighten
Tighten the retainers to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
Reconnect the washer hoses.
Remove the fender covers.
Close the hood.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
12345097 (In Canada use P/N 10953479) Adhesive, Weatherstrip
12345739 (In Canada use P/N 10953541) Sealant, RTV Silicone
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
D2118 Seal, HVAC Module to Body 1.3 hrs
Add Actuator, Air Inlet Door - Replace 1.0 hr
This is a unique labor operation for use only with this bulletin. The number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
-Cathy.
Good Luck!
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Does anyone have any leads on nice molded rear mud flaps for the 2002 Denali (not XL).
Damn, does this beast ever kick up the schmutz! :-)
Thanks,
Rich
2k2denali
They do make mud guards for the Suburban, Tahoe and ,Yukon-XL which is part # 5722. I have no idea if this guard will fit the Denali.
www.huskyliner.com
I held them in place to see how they looked before installing. I liked how they looked and they were easy to install with three small black sheet metal screws which I installed into the plastic molding inside the wheel well. They look nice and there should be no rust since no holes were made in metal. I installed them on all 4 corners since the awd kicks alot of road debris from all 4 tires. I have had them on for 8 months without any problems.
Did you have to remove the rear tires to install?
A local dealer said they are $17.50 per set and both rear and front are identical.
Just a side note: When I installed the front flaps they turned out to be a bit long. You'll understand when you align the molded portion on the flap with the body cladding of the Denali. It aligns nicely but the bottom of the flap is just a tad low on the front end. In hard turns where the suspension compresses, the flap would very rarely ground out on the road. No harm, but it was annoying the couple of times it happened.
I remedied the flaps by taking them off and trimming about a 1/2" off the bottom of the flap with a dremel cutoff. Impossible to tell they were "doctored". No problem on the rears as the flaps will be much higher off the ground.
With that 1/2" trimmed it has never touched again.
jphdxl: Did you have problems with headroom in the driver's seat? I'm 6'7" and have no problems with my sunroof. On the other hand, I do have problems with fitting people in the seat directly behind me. I never took any measurements, but I swear I lost about a foot of total leg room between from and back seats when I traded in my 99 Yukon.
Accessory Drive Belt Whine (Reposition Power Steering Pump Pulley) #01-02-32-007
Accessory Drive Belt Whine (Reposition Power Steering Pump Pulley)
2001-02 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 1500 Series Utility Models (Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL, Denali, Denali XL)
Built at Janesville Assembly Plant (Plant Code J) from December, 2000 through July, 2001
Condition
Some customers may comment on a whining-type noise that is audible in the vehicle's passenger compartment. This noise can typically be heard when the vehicle is idling and may vary in pitch as engine
RPM is increased.
Cause
The power steering (PS) pump pulley may be positioned too far inboard on the PS pump.
Correction
Inspect the PS pump pulley for proper positioning on the PS pump shaft. If it is determined that the pulley is not even/flush with the end of the shaft (+/- 0.25 mm (0.010 in) following the applicable Service Manual procedure and using J 25034-C, reposition the PS pump pulley.
Greg
Dealer says GM does not make them.
Jason
jphdxl: You will need to use the black background of the original logo. There are openings in the grill that will not be fully covered by the billet logo. I think you'll find it looks good with the black plastic background, however I recall it took some "jury-rigging" to get to fasten well and tight. I'm not sure I can recall all the steps but I can assure you that you'll need the logo background. I hope this helps.
extra horsepower/torque from their 6.0
engine ?
Has anyone used the Poron Micro 3 Back Talk
reverse sensing system and how is it holding
up ?
Jason
Comes with a storage bag when you are using your hitch for towing, an anti rattle device and a pin with a clip to hold it in place.
To prevent an easy theft of the hitch step I purchased a stainless locking pin from performance products. Comes with two keys and a cover that protects the key hole from dirt.
For 2" hitch holes.
I mounted the digital readout above the rear view mirror and fished the cable above the headliner all the way back to the left rear hatch post and down into the tailight housing. I put the power unit inside the small storage compartment near the hatch on the left side of the Yukon.
Poron ships fast, three day delivery.
Larry
On a different note, does anybody know where all 11 of the speakers are? I can find 9, including the two tweeters up front, 1 in each of the four doors, two in the very back, and the sub.