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Comments
Take care
As you may have guessed, I am a valve train engineer. There are ways to combat this cold start noise within the design of the lifter...I'll spare you the details. As a consumer, about the only thing that we can do is use 5W-30 oil (the normal recommendation). The lower viscosity will allow the oil to reach the lifters faster.
Hope this helps...
There are many engine variables involved in the "lack of oil to the lifter" condition. When one or some of these variables are in their worst case conditions, this can cause the cold-start engine knock. Thus, the reason for engine to engine variation...no two engines (and their respective components) are the same in dimensional accuracy.
One thing that I should have mentioned...when the cold, viscous oil finally makes it to the lifter -the lifter needs to be able to ingest it. If the check valve inside is sized such that it has a hard time ingesting thick oil, then this will extend the noise duration.
BTW, I work for a supplier not an OEM.
And, yes lalane, I agree, if toyota ever makes a vehicle to compete with the Denali XL, they could lose some market share. Conversely, when i read some of the complaints on the Sequoia forum, and their problems, I wonder if that vehicle is any better. Maybe not....they can't make em perfect.
Thanks. larry
Regarding cold start noise, the "cold" refers to the fact that the engine has not run for an extended period of time, taking on the temperature of its environment. When the engine sits, the oil in the block drains down to the oil pan; upon start-up the oil needs to get from the oil pan to the lifters. Whether it's 0 degrees or 75 degrees, the same thing needs to happen. The colder temps will make this task even more difficult to achieve due to the thicker oil.
What is nice is that all you need is your email address to submit a request, so that you dont have all those dealers trying to call you....it's really hassle-free!
good luck!
I am deciding between waiting and getting the '03, or negotiating on the $45,362 (before rebates) I got from Hertrich GMC. What do you people think?
Thanks,
AS
You might want to check out www.fitzmall.com -- Fitzgerald GMC in Rockville.
You can check out their inventory and price online -- most prices are at or below invoice.
They are located only about 10 minutes north of 495 off of Md. Rte 355 -- not too bad a drive from Balt.
Good luck.
Anyone out there with insight into changes coming for '03 DXL? Not particularly interested in quadrasteet, but other aesthetic/trim changes might be great. "Fit" and "finish" have never been strong points for GM.
Lastly, anyone with suggestions or comments (pricing/options) re extended warranty for DXL? Will probably hang on to this truck for a while , and dont want to get stuck with big problems down the line. Thanks again.
p.s. Town Hall "Host" dealer I spoke with quoted me dealer invoice cost (on 02 DXL) at approx $800 more than indicated on Edmunds pricing (invoice, msrp TMV comparison). He indicated this is "advertising" expense, included on invoice. Does this sound accurate?
"Most vehicle invoices include a legitimate advertising fee levied by either the manufacturer or regional dealer groups. Ad fees can range from less than 1% of the vehicle's MSRP to more than 3%, depending on region. Metropolitan-area dealers are more likely to charge higher advertising fees than rural dealers. When you comparison shop for a car, be sure to ask the dealers how much the advertising charge is on the vehicle."
So yeah, ad fees are "legit" (but may be negotiable).
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Just my opinion from experience wanting to, in some cases, being the first...
gerggs: My transmission made a "thump" and then locked up permanently. It never "let go" of the reart wheels (maybe the front wheels too) after that. If your transmission goes out, be sure to ask when they'll have it fixed. I made that mistake.
Just make sure you get the extended warranty, you will probably need it. Just look at some of the problems GMC is having with the AWD locking up on the Denali :-)
I notice that the coolant temp gauge starts at 160. This is strange as coolant temp gauges usually start at 100. Why doesn't it start at 100? Is this coincidental with the fact that the truck warms up so quickly. I am so impressed with the heat kicking in after approximately 60 seconds in 30 degree weather. Anyone know how they do it?
Thanks for the help!
Keith
Found out that the oil plug is magnetized and had about 1/8 inch of engine filings stuck to it.
Mechcanic said even though I'm using a synthetic I should still change oil every 3000 miles.
Engine has 66.4 hours.
An oil specialist (don't want to mention his name) said that while they maybe master techs, their knowledge of oils and lubricants often lacks as compared to their mechanic skills. Same can be said of engine design.
There is going to be a Lexus version of the Sequoia for 03.
I purchased a Chrysler 7 year 100,000 waranty on my 01 DXL. It was substancially cheeper than the GM warranty and I was not comfortable with a 3rd party warranty that was not from a manufacturer. In addition, GM only offered 6 year 100,000, not 7 year 100,000.
As far as service goes, it will operate in a similiar manner. The dealer I purchased from sells both GM and Chrysler, so that will make it a litle easier. I think the GM warranty would be a little easier to deal with since it is the same manufacturer. I was willing to pay extra for the GM warranty, but not nearly as much as was being asked.
Use the price on Capper to negotiate with your dealer. I believe Capper marks up GM warranties by $300 and Chrysler by $200.
Chrysler's pricing is a much flatter pricing structure. All vehicles are the same for the same coverage with adds for 4 wheel drive, turbo, etc (there are a few exceptions). GM rates each vehicle. I think the GM warranty would be priced more competively on some vehicles.
The IPC can display the accumulated engine run time hours using the VF display when the cluster is in the LOCK or ACC position. The IPC stores the accumulated engine run time hours in a non-volatile format. The accumulated hours will not change if the battery was disconnected or removed. When the ignition is OFF and the trip reset switch is pushed in and held for more than 4 seconds, the IPC will display the accumulated hours for 30 seconds. The hourmeter will reset to 0.0 when 10,000 hours are accumulated.
Campo57
L
After the K&N and Hypertech installations, my average MPG went from 15.8 to 12.7 on 92 octane. Needless to say this has not made me very happy. I have played with the programmer, making adjustments and have not found any combination that will improve mileage at all. I have no way to determine performance improvements with exception to the seat of my pants and I can't say those improvements were worth the money.
I can say that I have installed HID headlamps, relays for the headlamps, foglights and doorlocks (2001 model) and am extremely happy. HID lamps in the factory projector beam housings produce very, very good lighting, almost to the point that you never need to add the high beams when traveling at night, especially in rainy weather.
Curious,
L
The stock wiring is too small so I had to direct wire the lights to the battery through a relay that activated the HID's when the lights would normally come on. I spent probably about 4 or 5 hours on it, taking my time, making sure of the mounting spots for the ballasts and starters, etc. I could have actually had it all hooked up and burning in a little over an hour if it wasn't for the beer breaks.
Seriously, installation was very simple. I don't know if you have had your headlights out yet, but it just doesn't get any simpler to remove the headlight assembly and then you have all kinds of room to route wires and mount ballasts and starters.
As far as the lead foot deal on the performance issue, that's only a few time to actually see if there was a noticeable difference in acceleration. Other than that I was just cruising on the interstate as before when checking the actual MPG. K&N air filter makes all of the sense in the world but I need someone to tell me how to get the best settings with the Hypertech power programmer to at at least maintain MPG with some performance and towing improvement.