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But, I need help in replacing the motor/regulator. I have the insides of the door exposed, looking at black "framing" inside door (as seen in another posters pictures earlier in thread).
Do I need to take this whole thing out? Do I need to get the window in the up position? How do I do these things?
Please help! LOL. Not a "gearhead" by any means... which is unfortunate.
Thanks to all in advance.
The newer, better clip part numbers are 1593-8039 and 1593-8040. You can tell the difference in that the new ones use black plastic instead of white. 36 and 31 bucks full price. The buick dealer I called wanted 38 and 35, so I called my old Pontiac dealer, (now GMC), and got them cheaper. Took them 1 day to get them in from warehouse.
The answer is YES,,, I just finished installing two on a passenger rear door>>>>>
Dorman aftermarket regulators for the front are at Federated auto parts store for $90 for the whole assembly.
To remove the door panel without tools, start by prying at the triangular panel that covers the side mirror access hole / contains tweeter speaker. Once it is pried away, you should be able to pop out the door panel one pin at a time without a screwdriver. Before taking prying off from the last couple of pins, get a helper to hold the panel by the door handle - it's awkward for one person. Be very careful with the window and lock switches - they are delicate. While trying to disconnect the window switch, I actually pulled it apart. I would recommend getting on the ground on your back and using a screwdriver to release the barb socket. The door switch can be popped out intact, but you will likely break one of the retaining tabs in the door panel socket. Once again, release the barb socket with a screwdriver.
The pictures in post 36 were really useful. The clip on the outer rail is easy. The clip on the inner rail - the side closest to door hinge was harder. I ended up removing the door speaker - the magnet will hold it to the door - no need to disconnect. Then, remove the two bottom screws which hold the rail and motor in place. You should then be able to move the rail to a position where there is enough room to swing the clip over the rail and lock to the barrel.
I'd like to plug a flashlight that I bought recently and used during this job - gorillatorch. Extremely small, bright, bendable, and rare-earth magnets in the feet.
gorillatorch
Thanks to everyone that has posted before - you made this job easy!
Looked at both parts and found the black clips to be broken where they fit over the metal nubs that hold them in correct position horizontally in the assembly. Looks like the black plastic pieces were just shoved on all the way they could go resulting in the breaks.
I looked at the existing clips to see how they were supposed to be.
Planning to ask for refund and then get the parts locally unless they will overnight new ones to me.
Noticed that the clips discussed here resemble some I have in stock.
Does anybody have a good picture of the clips?
Are they similar to those below? If so, which are needed?
If there is any chance they might fit, I would provide a 'guniea' pig with a pair (against the promise to provide a DIY write up/photos to post up here).
Contact me at:
regulatorfix@gmail.com
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g323/regulatorfix/GM/BuickRendevousmaybe5.jp- g
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g323/regulatorfix/GM/BuickRendevousmaybe3.jp- g
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g323/regulatorfix/GM/BuickRendevousmaybe2.jp- g
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g323/regulatorfix/GM/BuickRendevousmaybe1.jp- g
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g323/regulatorfix/GM/BuickRendevousmaybe6.jp- g
This has to be the most outrageous abuse of overcharging I've ever seen for a repair. The repair shop where I live told me it would take and hour to and hour and a half per window, and wanted $400 per window! It's not hard to do at all. Yeah, it takes a little maneuvering to get the cable assembly in, but all in all, this is one of the easiest repairs you can do. And you could probably find the cheap plastic regulator clips online somewhere, but if you're going to go to all the trouble to remove the door panels, you might as well replace the entire assembly while you're at it. I had 3 out of the 4 motors/regulators go out in my in less than 4 months, boom, boom, boom. I replaced the entire assembly on all four for less than half what the shop wanted to do just one.