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How to replace power window regulator on a Buick Rendezvous?

breit67breit67 Posts: 1
Both front windows on my wife's SUV failed within the same week. The windows go down but do not go back up. I can here the motor working but the windows don't move. The dealer said it is the regulator on the power window motor and wanted to charge me $800 to repair both of them. We are out of warranty by 8000 mis. I would like to try and replace them by myself. Is it difficult to remove the door panels to get access to the window motor? Thx
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Comments

  • Door panels come off easy – two screws and pop fasteners. Remove one screw near door handle. Other screw is inside the red plastic lens at the end of the arm rest. Carefully pop plastic lens out to access screw. With a large, wide, flat screwdriver or pry bar carefully work you way around the door panel prying to pop it loose. Electrical connectors have locking tabs that need to be pressed in before pulling apart.

    Did you buy replacement parts? If so do you know the part numbers and what was included?

    I am currently working on the passenger window of my 2003.

    Thanks.
  • A bit of an aside, but does the door panel also need to be removed to replace the driver's window switch? It looks like the small surface panel within the armrest that surrounds the window buttons pops off, but when I jiggle it and start to pry it off, the buttons seem to move with it. I don't want to pull it off at the risk of breaking something unless I'm sure that's what I need to do.
  • I don't recall how the armrest is attached to the door panel but I am pretty sure you will have to remove the whole panel.

    The trick is to pop the red lense off to get to the second screw.

    Once both screws are removed then get a wide flat pry bar or large screw driver (wrap some making tape around it so as not to scratch the door) and work your way around the the panel prying it off.

    Start from the lower outermost corner and work you way up towards the window then across the bottom of the door and up the other side.

    Don't worry - it will snap back in.

    In order to disconnect the cables for the window and speakers you need to use a screw driver to press in a latching tab on the connector BEFORE you try to pull it apart.

    Good luck!
  • uhrickuhrick Posts: 1
    My drivers side window went down and won't come back up. I popped the switch panel out of the armrest and fooled around with the L.H.front switch. By pushing the two wires up into the switch, the window will go up. I guess it's the switch that's faulty. Can these be repaired? If not, can it be bought at an auto supply store or do you have to get one from the dealer? How do the wires release from the switch if replacing? Also, my A.C. stopped working at about 60K miles. Tried recharging with refrigerant cans, but didn't work. Doesn't sound like compressor is engaging due to low refrigerant level. Any ideas? Can't take to dealer for repair because of cost. Are there any things I can check or repair?
  • Could be the switch or an intermittent connection of the wire(s) to the pins in the connector.

    Pins are crimped onto the wire ends. These pins are inserted into the connector that the switch plugs into.

    By wiggling the wires are you might have gotten them to make contact with the pins.

    I am not sure if you can get that switch from an auto parts store. To remove the switch from the wires you will have to pry up on a little tab while pulling the switch from the connector. This little tab is used to latch the wire connector to the switch. Once you have the switch in hand try your local auto parts store 1st then a GM dealer.

    As for the AC. Try to look for oily dirt around AC system fitting in the engine compartment. The Freon has oil in it. When the Freon leaks so does some of the oil. The oil will attract dirt and dust. Fixing it yourself is a long shot but maybe you can at least pinpoint the problem. Hopefully it's not the evaporator (inside the car) or the condenser (in front of the radiator).

    Good luck.
  • azdougazdoug Posts: 9
    i have tried 4 different dealers to purchase the plastic clips for drivers door regulator,all of them tell me you have to buy the entire regulator assy,in forum i saw that a tsb was issued but dealers tell me it doesnt have anything to do with clips, where can i get them ?
  • AZDOUG,

    Try these part numbers - not sure which is left or right. If one is cracked the other might be as well.

    Clip - 15286776
    Clip - 15286777
    (Regulator - 10376803)

    Good luck!
  • Man you saved my but :)

    My regulator broke yesterday. as far as left and right i went to the dealership today and they show those two clips go on one window. and they work on either driver or passenger side. i havent taken the regulator out to verify but he said the computer says both are required. i need the 15256777 one. they charge 27 but ive seen them online for 15. thanks for the number they couldnt find one
  • Intrepid, where have yous een the clips online for $15.
    Could you post site please.

    I just had the same happen to me.

    Thank you
  • azdougazdoug Posts: 9
    I ENDED UP REPLACING REGULATOR ASSY, BUT HAVE SINCE FOUND THE PLASTIC GUIDES ONLINE FOR 19.21 THEY ARE AVAILABLE AT [email protected] THIS OUTFIT IS IN PHOENIX AZ, BUT IF YOU GO ONLINE AND PUNCH IN BUICK RENDEZVOUS PARTS YOU CAN FIND MANY PLACES THAT SELL CLIPS,PART NUMBERS ARE 15286776 1528777 MOST DEALERS DONT SEEM TO BE ABLE TO FIND A PART NUMBER FOR CLIPS ONLY
  • azdougazdoug Posts: 9
    THANK YOU FOR PART NUMBERS,I HAVE FOUND MANY PLACES ONLINE TO PURCHASE THEM DEALERS DONT SEM TO BE ABLE TO FIND THESE PARTS NUMBERS
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Hey, Doug! It's best not to type in ALL CAPS.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • intrepidcubintrepidcub Posts: 60
    Im sorry never saw these responses the 15 dollars clips were from gmpartsdirect.com but it turns out they charge enough shipping to get the the same price at the dealership sneaky i think LOL
  • tracy9tracy9 Posts: 6
    Ordering and replacing the clips was the easy part...somewhat, with your help. My learning curve (which sounds stupid now)was that the cog on the wire that makes the window go up and down needed to be placed in the center of the plastic clip between the two "fingers" that the cable runs through. When I closed the window all the way the clip broke again. I guess I didn't have the window clamp tightened in the correct position. The clip still works well enough to make the window go up and down and I'm just going to order yet a third clip. My question is...how DO I properly align the window in the clamp to keep the window from binding? We tried many differnt positions and thought we had it correct that last time...but apparently not. Any suggestions?
  • astrospaceastrospace Posts: 5
    I am very sorry but it was last summer that I replaced the clips and I just don't remember the exact technique.

    I remember the passenger door was tough (double jointed fingers, wrists and elbows would have helped).

    I might have run the window all the way up or down and noted where on the cable the clip went. The I might have set the widow in a mid-way position to get everything together.

    I am very sorry - I'd have to do it again to answer your question.
  • I called my dealer just before finding this forum and was told what some of you have already stated about having to buy the regulator and that the clips are not sold seperately. Has anyone been able to purchase these from a dealer using the part numbers listed and if so, how much did they run?
  • they are lying to you. I called three dealers and they all said they had to order them. I found one that had them in stock. it cost me $57.xx (with tax).

    The lie to you so you have to buy the regulator. Just give them the part #s.

    BTW: they are real easy to replace.
  • tracy9tracy9 Posts: 6
    I agree they were easy to replace...but after I put the new ones in the left had side (on the drivers door) broke immediately and I had to reorder again. Damn cheap plastic crap. How did you figure out exactly where to tighten them on the window so they don't break?
  • I dont understand. pull on the steel cable to seet it in the clip, then holding that you angle the clip to clip it on to the regulator. Check to make sure it is seated properly. on the other side you have to loosen the bolts that hold the regulator in place. I actually removed the bottom bolt and just loosened the top. Just loosen it enough so you can place the clip on. Once again make sure it is seated properly. just make sure not to overtighten the regulator bolts. As a matter of fact they need to be torqued. I think its like 8.5 ft/lbs. If you overtighten those I think it puts to much pressure on the regulator and it could cause the clips to break as the regulator will not flex enough. And you have to be extremely careful tightening the clip to window. overtighten and you can cause the window to break.
  • tracy9tracy9 Posts: 6
    The clips and I had a round again last night and I won! My window is fixed. What would have helped: There is a cog on the cable that has to be seated in the side of the clip. The side opposite of the two "C" type fingers. (so my post #16 was wrong and that's why the clips broke again...sorry) Take a look and you'll see the indentation where the cog goes. Don't know the proper way to attach the clip to the black slide that the window rides on but my son (who's 12) figured out something that worked very simply. Hold the Clip perpendicular or at a right angle to the black slide bar. Make sure the two fingers seat onto the side of the slide. Carefully turn the slide 180degrees and it's attached. I snapped the cog into place after the slide was attached. Works like charm now and if a single working mom can do this...so can you! Good luck.
  • thats it, I am sorry I wish I culd have sent you my cell #, I could have talked you through it. I spent so much time studying the regulator, that by the time I had the actual clips I kne whow it went already.

    Congratulations!!!

    Now if you ever need help changing the wheel bearing in teh front (they wear very quickly and make a loud roaring noise as you pick up speed) let me know, that is a little harder, but also much more simple.

    TG
  • ladybug35ladybug35 Posts: 2
    I saw some discussion regarding the window clips on a Buick Rendezvous, I need some help. My driver's side window went all the way down and will not go up, the motor is still working, someone had mentioned that the clips need to be replaced and after reading some discussion on this I believe that is what I need to do, however, I do not know what part I need to order. The dealership said the cost is $200 for the Regulator. Someone help me please, I do not need the entire kit. I THINK I only need the clip. Anyone have any suggestions???? :confuse:
  • ladybug35ladybug35 Posts: 2
    I am having trouble locating this part, I too am looking for the clips, where did you order them from?
  • tracy9tracy9 Posts: 6
    I went thru Gmpartsdirect.com left part is #15286776 and right is #15286777.
  • As per below, the part #s are 15286776 and right is #15286777

    Most dealers will not stock them, and have to order them. They will run about $53 for the pair. Don't let them tell you otherwise. As I have advised before, take soem time to study the clip once you go to install. there s a litle cube shaped chamber and a matching stop on the cable that goes in there. That is the key, make sure the cable side is sitting in that litle cube chamber before you clip the clip on the regulator
  • betttyboobetttyboo Posts: 1
    I paid 354 to get the drivers window fixed when the regualator died on me. 28 days later the window would not go down or up. That was a year ago. Suddenly the window goes down and the dork at the shop i go to rolls it down even more. But thanks to you guys i can FINALLY get this door off and fix this window. I have know it was a loose wire all this time but i just could not figure out for the life of me how to get the door off. Other than that, i have had no problems as of yet with the car! ;) Wish me luck!
  • I have seen that I can order the clips to fix my window that is now stuck on the Driver's side. Do I need to purchase the left and the right clips for 1 window? Or is it just get either 1 set of the left or the right depending on which side the window is on? I am thinking that I need both sets for 1 window no matter what side the car is on.

    Please help.
    Thanks.
  • you need both clips per window. Usually when the window falls it means both clips broke. Left and right is just the sides per window, both passenger and driver side have both a left and right clip
  • Thanks for the quick response!

    I am going to order the 15286776 & 15286777 for my fiancee's 2003 Rendezvous. I hope this does the trick. They wanted to charge us $500. I may have to do it also on the driver's side passenger window too.

    Thanks again.
  • thomas001thomas001 Posts: 2
    Tony Gravato, I saw your statement about the wheel bearing in the front of the Buick Rendezvous. The dealer is going to charge me $350.00 plus labor. Is this something that I can repair? I have a 2002 Buick Rendezvous. Also I saw your reply about the my clips on the window regulator. My left front is broken. My motor works fine but the plastic part is broken off. Why would GMC used plastic? I email the Only Factory Part and I have ask them for the part# 15286776 1528777. I am waiting for their return email. I hope I can fix my window like the lady did. The dealer is going to charge me $168.02 plus labor. Please help. It seems that I have brought a lemon.
  • I figured they used plastic/nylon because it is light weight and probably to make it glide easy on the track.

    Now for your questions:

    I went to a technical school and have a diploma in automotive technology, so I feel very comfortable doing a lot of things. I also hate dealer service, because they overcharge more then they should (I was once also a service writer). That being said.

    If I was you, I would replace the window clips yourself. There has been a lot written here and it is relatively straight forward if you take the time. Now on the wheel bearing, 5 months after mine started to whine, I received the letter stating according to GM that there might be an issue with premature wear. Considering my wife's Rende had over 70K miles on it, it seemed appropriate for the wear (still not a normal occurance) I essentially let it growl for over 10 months till it got real bad (dont recommend it, as all kinds of warning lights go off). The part cost me about approx $150-$180, it was an aftermarket part from an auto parts store. The unit comes with the ABS sensor ring.

    Once you jack and properly support truck on a flat surface, remove affected wheel. remove brake caliper, and mounting bracket, remove rotor. You will have to get a 24mm socket(? not quite sure of size, as I am not home so cant see what socket size is) and remove hub to axle bolt. I had use of an electric impact gun which made it easy, Otherwise a large breaker bar and a pipe over it (for leverage) should do it. Now look behind the hub, take something and mark the hub (yellow tire pencil or some white out, just mark so you can realign gasket and strut assembly), the metal gasket position (Gasket goes in one way, and if you put back incorrectly it will grind against rotor)
    Now turn your attention to behind the assembly there are 3 bolts, one is really easy to remove, one is somewhat easy (can be a little tight) and one is a royal pain (but not hard) I recommend you go to Sears and invest in good sockets because if they are worn it can make this task a little hard) the bolt in question is at a 12:00 o'clock position, but it is tight against the bottom of strut and axle. You have to put a small extension on it. If it does not turn with reasonable force, you may have to have somebody hold a small propane torch (the plumbing kind) and heat the area from the outside (facing out side) for about 7-10 minutes and then try removing it again (it should come out easy, my bolt was frozen) disconnect the ABS sensor ring (and I believe there is a bracket you have to unscrew as well holding the sensor ring pig tail). The hub is unbolted, now the fun stuff. Take a hammer and tap (a little hard) around the outside of hub assemble ( it is triangular in shape) till you see it starting to separate. Do not try and pry, you do not want to nick the machined surfaces. Keep hammering. Better yet is to use a slide hammer to remove it.

    Once hub is removed inspect where hub goes into strut/spindle, clean it out. Take new assembly feed the sensor ring pig tail through, make sure gasket is aligned properly with marks you made earlier and insert hub in. It should go in tight. and just use a hammer and a block of wood to tap it back in. Get very flush and all aligned. Now bolt in the back. After that is done, bolt the axle bolt back in. Make sure to plug the sensor ring connector in and make sure everything is re attached. Put the rotor back on, and then, the mounting brackets and the brake caliper. Put the wheel back on and tighten lug nuts, lower truck back on to ground, start truck AND PUMP BRAKES ABOUT 6 to 10 TIMES TO MAKE SURE THE BRAKES ARE SEATED PROPERLY. BRAKE PEDAL SHOULD APPEAR FIRM.

    Take for test drive, whining noise should be gone, test brakes to makes sure they are ok. After test drive recheck wheel lug nuts to make sure they are tight.
  • the driver's side window on my 2002 rendezous was working albeit very slowly. then one day i heared something crack and the window stopped in the up position. i pulled off the door jam to find a metal piece with a black rubber thing that looks like the part that the window rests in. i did find a plastic piece that snapped off inside the door. was this one of the plastic clips? its hard for me to tell b/c i don't know what i'm looking at. right now the window is still in the up position, the motor works, and i have a metal arm piece with a black rubber piece sitting on my desk...what needs to be replaced? is it one of the clips that snapped? thanks for the help.
  • yes the white nylon plastic peices are teh clip. You need to replace both (if the other isn't broken, it soon will be from the stress.) I believe the new clips are actually a little stronger. When you get them from the dealership they come as an assembly of the clip with teh attached metal arm peice/rubber. Just follow some of teh suggestions in here on installation, and take your time. It is very straight forward, but do to close confines, requires som patience.
  • teamneonteamneon Posts: 1
    Well guys, I too had the same problem BUT when i fixed mine i took pics!
    I hope this page helps anyone in the future as i had no clue how the clips even attached to the regulator before i took it out and studied it.
    Here ya go....
    Buick Rendezvous Window Regulator Installation Page
    I added the part numbers and links at the bottom of the page.
    Have Fun!
  • GREAT JOB!!!

    I think in the future I may do that, so I can help some one else.

    KUDOS !!
  • thanks for the links and post! my dealer wanted $330 - and that was with me having already taken off the door panel... i declined and they charged me $46 for 1/2 hr of diagnosis. so with me ordering the plastic clips, it will cost a total of $100!!

    heck, i registered just to thank you guys. i also have a jeep wrangler, but i have part #s, and repair books - but for buicks, i cant find them.

    anyone have a copy of a buick rendezvous parts cd?
  • Hey thanks for the how-to help on the Buick window. Dealer wanted $56 for the parts (2). I went to the Gm site to order and will have to wait because of the strike. They said the parts were about 17.00--hope I am ordering exactly what i need ( The white plastic pieces). Two questions. If you had to do this over would you take any short cuts, ie, do you have to take out the regulator motor in order to attach the clips? And, when do you attach the window into the rubber saddle of the metal piece? It looks like the metal piece has to be loosened in order to insert the glass, then retightened, Right?? Thanks, Bill
  • you are getting same thing, but by the time you pay for the shipping, you only save about $5-6 from going to the dealer.
  • Thank you so much for this info, you saved me a bundle. Do you recommend taking the assembly out of the door to install the clips?
  • no, leave the assembly in. but you will have to loosen the bolts on the right side so you can get the clip on.
  • My driver side window is screwed up, gathering from the info on the forum is should be the clips. I would like to ask, do I need both part# - 15286776 & 15286777 for one window or do they come in pairs, please clearify. Thanks for the help
  • usually you will need both. Once one goes the oher is sure to be weakened by doing the job of both. Just replace them both
  • Hey guys,

    Great information for the front windows.

    I have a rear window on a 2003 Buick Rendevous that is not working. I am trying to take the panels off the drivers side door, but they do not remove as easily as the front panels. Is there an easy way to get the panels off without tearing the panels up in the process?

    I have all the bolts removed that I can find and it looks like the clips holding the panels are teh issue. Started using a screwdriver, but wanted to ask for advice before, I potentially damaged something in the process!

    Thaanks in advance!
  • there is a actual panel clip tool, that graps the clip and gives you enough leverage to remove it with ouit tearing up or damaging the panel the way a screwdriver does. Also make sure ALL bolts and screws are removed, sometimes you will have one that you can totally miss. My only other advice is take your time.

    Sorry not much, but I hope it helps.
  • Does anyone know where I can purchase a window regulator, I went to a mechanic yesterday and he told me that i will also have to purchase the motor because it is all one piece. Which sucks b/c mine is still working and he wants to charge me 300.00 to order and labor.Does this sound right????
  • The general assumption is that it is all one peice it is not. The motor, regulator, and clips are seperate. Just take the part #s from this thread and go to your Buick dealer, then find a new mechanic
  • I am so glad I found this forum!!! I must share my story!

    I have a 2002 Rendezvous. The window clips broke on my driver's side door. Of course, I did not know that was the issue, until I took the door apart. Being the girl that I am, I still did not know what was wrong. So, I took the door panel off the front passenger door. Then, I saw that all the plastic parts were supposed to be only 2 plastic parts. I pieced the broken parts together and my husband took them to several auto parts stores, looking for new ones.--- no luck

    Then, he sent me to the dealership and they told me that I needed a new regulator ($175 plus labor). They even showed me a new one. The clips on the new one were not plastic!!! In fact, they did not look like they could be removed from the regulator. So a new regulator comes with better clips.

    So I went home, duct taped my window in the "Up" position--- yes, I said duct tape--- then but the door back together to hide all the tape.

    3 months later---yes the tape held for 3 months--- the window slips down about 4-5" while driving.

    Now, thanks to this forum, I am going to surprise my husband by fixing the window!!!
  • gatcgatc Posts: 1
    On an 03 Rendevous, my driver side rear power-window clip broke. I previously replaced the clips on the driver's door, so I called the dealer for the clips for the rear window and the parts guy said that you can only replace front clips. He said the rear is all one unit with the regulator! I saw someone else on this forum with a similar complaint but I wasn't sure if your answer applied to front windows only.
    I took off the panel and am looking at the broken plastic clip. So why can't I just replace them?
  • Thanks for the pictures. They will help a lot.
  • jereojereo Posts: 8
    Are the clips for the rear windows the same as the front?
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