Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Dodge Ram Transmission Problems
is there any way to to increase the line presure on a 5.2 ram 1500? I have been told that this is the reason for most of dodge transmission problems. I am also getting a fluxuation in rpm at highway speeds. You can hear and see the variation in rpm. At 70mph with the cruise set it will bounce about 300rpm. So if the rpm is steady at 3000 it will bounce up to 3300. Its almost like a mini slip. I was told it could be my lock up converter going bad. Any info would be great.
See Also: Diagnose Automatic Transmission Problems
See Also: Diagnose Automatic Transmission Problems
0
Comments
Two things to check:
- fluid level, and make sure you are using the proper fluid (ATF+3 or 4)
- if the trans hasn't been service, have a complete service done as described above (not just a fluid change)
If those two don't cure the slip, you likely have a torque converter issue.
kcram - Pickups Host
Slipping can be caused by a number of things, but the designed line pressure is not one of them.
Your 300 RPM change is more than likely indicating the torque converter coming out of lock-up. This, too, can be caused by a variety of things, including a bad throttle position sensor or dirty shift solenoids.
Regards,
Dusty
Gary
kcram - Pickups Host
Regards,
Dusty
i went and replaced the egr valve at advance..when i went to leave,the truck literally wouldnt go into ANY gear..i tried revving,etc,no dice..when i shut the truck Off tho,and restarted,it went into 1st....i tried to drive it home,but it was refusing to go from 1st to any other gear....i finally figured out that if i shut the truck off,then restarted it and put it in gear,it would pull off to about 21mph...at which point it would flash and no gears....i made it to about 2 miles away,and this time when i did the restart,the truck pulled off Strong and All 3 gears..PERFECT..so,like,wtf?...then,i get home and revved it,its fine..took it out of gear,put it back in,and im back where i started,no gears..just exactly what in the hell is wrong with this thing?
any help would be appreciated.
Edit:btw,the guy at advance did a scan,Before this happened,With the truck running..
i asked him if it should be off first and he said no?
the truck Never did this until he did that scan,im wondering if he messed it up somehow,by testing it running?
the codes came up as code 31 and some weird code hex4??
again,thanx in advance for any help..Brokedown in New York.
To get the codes manually cycle the key in the following order: on-off-on-off-on but do not start the engine. Watch the check engine light, it will flash. A short pause between flashes will indicate the 2nd digit and a long pause will indicate the beginninng of a new code. When the cycle is complete you will get code #55
Check with your local dealer to see if the engine should be running or off when using a diagnostic code reader.
Even the older OBD1 systems had some capability to make tests with the engine running.
as far as a good value for fixing trannies that Are`nt Broken YET,heres a kit.
if you really want some performance,check out this page,its full of options for our trucks.
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm
sluggo33,the part you need is listed on that page,its a tube that allows the convertor to be fed in park..gl.
#SC-46/47RHE. The Sure Cure Transmission Reconditioning Kit, Parts in one box to cure common root-cause problems. Sonnax is pleased to announce our 46 / 47RH / RE (518 / 618) application-specific kit to provide rebuilders with a full complement of parts in one box to cure common root-cause problems. Sonnax Sure Cure™ kits will simplify decisions for transmission rebuilders by providing the best Sonnax fixes in one box with detailed, step-by-step instructions, and all orderable by one part number. Cost $148.00
good luck,and if anyone knows whats up with my truck,please reply.
so far ive heard the computer needs to be reprogrammed,reflashed,bad convertor,bad wiring,bad sensors,etc etc..the baffling fact is that it Will work fine,Once..but take it out of gear and its gone....
o,the best part,i bought another 94,360-2wd 1500 longbed so i would have something to drive ,guess what happened on the way home?
yep,trans acted weird..SIGH!!!!!
I am having the exact same problem. According to a response on this forum, it sounds like some of the likely solutions are replacing the tps, or shift solenoids. Are there any other likely problems that I should look into concerning this problem?
It also sounds like wiring problems are not uncommon on these systems. I live in Arizona, and I have had more automotive wiring problems (I have 9 cars) since I moved here than I ever did in Oregon. It's phobably not a bad idea to go around the tps connections, transmission wiring connections etc. with a tube of dielectric grease. This has solved many of my wiring problems in the past.
Since this seems to be a common problem with these trucks, why do I not see any receall or service bulletins? Maybe Chrysler would not be the fourth best selling auto manufacturer (Toyota is kicking their butt these days) if they treated their customers a little better.
thats what they claim is wrong with my truck.
im waiting for my appt to see if they are right.
they also say,and i kinda believe them on this,that if you have dextron of any sort in the trans,it needs to be drained out and ONLY ATFPLUS4 should be put into any dodge automatic trans..All Chrysler four-speed automatic transmissions* are very sensitive to the quality of the transmission fluid. Only use the ATF+[3 or 4] in these transmissions. Do not use Dexron or Mercon.
something to do with the lubrication quality of the fluid,messes stuff up.
also,Dont Let Anyone whos not qualified to run a scanning tool touch your truck!!
my truck is currently in limphome mode,(ty advance auto)which im betting is the problem with yours as well SKKat.
to test this theory
start truck put in gear...do you have partial 1st?of any kind?
now shift to park,and back to first..anything?
if nothing,shut key OFF and then restart to see if you have 1st gear again.
if so,then get the computer reflashed Before you spend a dime on the transmission.
hope this helps,may or may not be the answer,but after going thru the wringer on this for the past week now.......
btw,just for kicks,try this too,it didnt work for mine,but hey maybe...
take off the battery cables overnite,Both of them and try again in the morning..if you have gears make sure that you have the trans module retrained.
heres a link to the allpar page,its very good reading and explains a lot better than i can.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html
also,for those of you who have wondered if chrysler knows about its defects,check this page out,warning,make sure you are sitting down first,its kinda brutal.
http://www.daimlerchryslervehicleproblems.com/
again,i stress that i know little to nothing and im just hoping this helps people out..g/l,rob
He says that the rpm fluctuations that I'm experiencing at highway speeds are caused by the lock up torque converter cycling on and off when it shouldn't. This symptom may be caused by any one of a number of bad electrical connections.
If the battery has corrosion on one of the posts, then that is a possible cause.
There are two computers that can have a bad ground. I believe that each computer has it's own ground. Cleaning the grounds / scratching the paint at the ground can cure the problem.
A faulty ground at the battery can cause this problem too.
The last possible cause that he mentioned was a bad tranny fluid pump. Some times these pumps leak between the front and back of the pump. Sounds spendy.
Hopefully I can gear my problem with a little wire brushing.
By the way, now that it is getting cooler here, I have experienced my transmission not wanting to go into gear. You guys were right, placing the transmission in neutral seemed to take care of the problem. Thanks.
I have a 99 2500 with a V10 and a 47RE Trans. I'm having the same problem with only 65,000 miles on the truck. RPM started bouncing +/- 200 at freeway speeds. I had it machine flushed with ATF+3 and a new filter/gasket put on. about one month later I lost 1st gaer and overdrive. I'm being told that I now need a $2,200 rebuild. What do you think? Sandman :confuse:
there is a little stupid check valve in that line,which can become clogged..it was a factory design,to restrict the fluid,and is not what you need or want in there.
just change it out.
do NOT remove the whole end thats attached to radiator as it is plastic and you Will be screwed if it comes out of the radiator.just cut the lines short at the radiator,and leave them Alone!
the tranny cooler will help a lot as well,and will be super easy to install,you just attach your lines and clamp then good,then zip tie the cooler to the radiator.
your best bet is to drop the pan and check the filter,drain As Much of the fluid as you can.
why,because you basically smoked the trans fluid to nothing..its worn out/burnt.
you need to get as much as possible out of that trans.
when you refill the tranny,
make sure you use the ATF+4 Nothing else!!
yes,i know that is expensive stuff,but its the only way.
this is all just a good luck shot,as they are tough trannys,but you def ran that one hot.
it either will or wont work..yes,i understand thats a bit of change for the fluid/10-12 quarts @4 bux a quart,and a filter,7 bux
but thats a lot cheaper than a 1500-2800 rebuild.
I suggest that you let the engine idle for about fifteen seconds before putting in gear.
Have any of you had torque converter failures or has Dodge done a recall on this transmission?
Here is the problem. I own a Jeep Liberty CRD (MY 2005). The 2.8L turbo diesel generates 295 lb-ft of torque @ 1800 RPM. I get 80+% of torque starting at 1400 RPM, peaking at 1800 RPM and falling off at 3200 RPM. The recall states that the torque converter will need replacement and the engine will need to be detuned a little to reduce the amount of torque it generates. The reduction in torque will enhance torque converter durability and transmission durability too.
Any information is appreciated.
thanks :confuse:
Need to drop tranny ?
Speial alignment tools ?
thanks, Dave
Speial alignment tools ? Yes. Clutch disc alignment tool, shouldn't be over 4 or 5 bucks. Also, while I had the driveshaft out I would consider replacing the U-joints, assuming they have never been replaced, or at least check them really well.
kcram - Pickups Host