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Did you find a solution????
My license plate lights weren't working so i decided to change the sockets and bulbs, apparently big mistake. Now my drive lights in the front and rear are not working along with my dash lights and passenger side courtesy light. But my break/signal/reverse/head lights are all working perfectly. Im thinking this may be a ground issue..... need help!
I love my S10 but the problems are frustrating. Its a truck. It should be simple. Good luck and let us know what you find.
Thanks again!!
If you can tell me which fuses don't have power, I maybe able to trace it to the ignition switch.
A 12 volt test light is real cheap.
I traced it to a bad ground under the rear frame right before it branched out to the trailer wiring. Check the wires coming from the lights and then under the truck. Especially check areas that are exposed and prone to road and water grime, or even under the hood where heat and oil can possibly affect them.
Could this be a bad PCM?
:sick:
I drive a 2000 Chevy S10 with a V6 motor. The truck has issues. Over the past 3 years there have been 5 one week periods where the truck does not want to be started. Here is a rundown of what happens.
First I open the truck door. Then I sit down and close the door. I turn the key sometimes I turn it fast and sometimes I turn it slow. While turning the key slowly the truck goes through its normal starting phases. It shuts off all the unnecessary electrical systems, then right before the engine turns over it gives off one, two maybe thirty clicks (think video game machine gun sound) then the truck dies.
When I say the truck dies everything goes out it loses all power. The horn doesn't sound, the power locks don't work etc. Once dead the truck demon does one of two things. It may flicker all the speed/rpm/gas gauges then a few seconds later it magically turns on or the truck stays dead. The truck stays dead for up too two hours before magically regaining power.
The weird part. If the truck stays dead and I connect it too another vehicle via jumper cables. This seems to give it a better chance of a successful start (although the battery is fine) And even when connected via jumper cables it may still die, but if I wiggle one of the jumper cables, the truck instantly snaps back to life for me to chance another start. It takes an average of 20 start attempts before the truck will start and that's with or without the jumper cables.
So an overview of the Electrical Demon, I turn the key, the truck dies (electrically dead), I either A wait or B fiddle around with the battery connections to try and arouse the truck back to life. Once the truck regains electrical consciousness I turn the key again cross my fingers and hope it starts. If I don't turn the key to the start position, the truck is usually fine (although not always). If I use jumper cables the truck seems to respond better by starting sooner. It takes up to 30 tries for a successful start. Once it has been started successfully It runs fine until I shut it off.
Need Good Advice Soon Sincerely,
MadMatter
Some other magical happenings with the truck:
1. The lights inside and outside the truck flicker with the music on the radio.
2. The lights inside and outside the truck flicker even with the radio off.
3. When the gas gauge is below 1/4 of a tank the abs light comes on. There is no problem with the anti-lock brake system. The sensor is incorrectly working and seems to be correlated with the gas gauge in some way.
4. The horn works half of the time, when they test it in the shop it works and when I need it on the road it doesn't. The shop said the horn was fine. I know from experience that is only fine when it wants to be and when I want it to sound it refuses.
If you were to witness all these events and know the truck as I have come to know it you would be certain it was haunted. This truly is not the case but the issue seems more complex than the cables being bad (although it would make sense if they were. The battery could be bad but this is the second battery in a row that has been faulty. I'm wondering if the truck could make batteries bad or if batteries are bad before they are put in the truck.
I have an amp on my system and have had for about 5 years and have never had a flickering problem. I had a 500W amp and now a 250W amp and the lights don't flicker at all when the truck is running and only slightly when the the truck is off. Make sure the amp is properly grounded to the frame or floor of the cab. I am on battery #3?? Maybe #2 since I have owned the truck (7 years) and alternator #2. The only time I had an issue was right after I put in alternator #2 and the cables weren't tightened properly. I had starting issues exactly like you described. I cleaned all the connections to the battery and the tightened them all up and haven't had an issue since.
My "security light" flashes 3 long single, followed by 2 quick tight flashes.. Does anyone kno what this code is trying to tell me?? Or does anyone kno where I can find a list of the code definitions?? :sick:
My "security light" flashes 3 long single, followed by 2 quick tight flashes.. Does anyone kno what this code is trying to tell me?? Or does anyone kno where I can find a list of the code definitions??
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=454520
I also had a water leak that showed up in constant wet carpet and I couldn't ever find it. One day I was pulling up the carpet and was running the hose all around the rear window, the 3rd brake light and then hooked it under the windshield wiper and let it run for 30 minutes. No water ever came in by the pass side footwell where it always got wet. I gave up that day. It turned out that I fixed the leak. By flooding the vent cavities by the w/s wipers, I must have floated away som leaf or something that was blocking a drain port. It allowed the cavity to stop overfilling and somehow backing up into the cabin. Been totally dry for 2 months now. I pulled out the console and seats and dyed the carpets black right after that. It came out nice. I mixed a 39 cent box if dye in an empty spray bottle and just sprayed it and rubbed it in with a washcloth.
Also had the intake manifold gaskets replaced by a local mechanic. They were bad at 111k miles. Common on 4.3 L at 100k.
Now I need new front tires and I might have the same mechanic fix the a/c.
My last tank of mixed driving was over 21 mpg with lots of congestion on I-70 due to construction. I was about to dump it over the water leak problem.
I can attest to the intake manifold leak. Mine did that too and a buddy andn I replaced it at about 130K miles, although it had been leaking for several thousand before it finally went all the way and started dumping coolant down the front of the block....
I gave up on the electrical problem. I looked at wiring diagrams but there are multiple buried relays and the day/night sensor could even be part of the problem. I even put in a new dome light and brake light. The red 3rd brake lens gets a split from sun or heat from the brake light bulb, and water gets into the wires there. There have never been any other electrical issues. The Sonoma battery terminals don't corrode like my Astro.
I have a 10" subwoofer I am running in my truck and I can crank it without affecting the lights while the truck is running. Simple setup, no caps so it draws all its power through the alternator.
"Everything checks normal", do you mean at least 14 volts at the battery with headlights high beam on,HVAC blower an AC on, radio on with 1500 rpm.
Jon
senscors and it still does it. Did you ever figure out
what it was cause I def need help with the same
issue. Please help