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Comments
mc22x3
When this happens, I hear a sound as if someone/something was banging once on the firewall and I get a whining sound from the alternator. The speedometer then behaves like a tachometer, responding to engine revs instead of speed.
For some time, turning the engine off and waiting a few moments would bring things back to normal.
In the past few days, it wasn't possible to re-start the engine. It acted as if the battery was discharged, with starter clicking sound and gauges dimming. The battery was fully charged though. Opening the hood and wiggling all the cables that lead to black boxes now brings things back and I can start and drive again - until next time.
Any help would be very much appreciated.
i went to go and start it the other day it worked i then turned on my heater and the truck just died and never re-gained it's power back
with that said
i changed my ( ign switch on the lower column ) and changed the fusible link in the starter soliod ) neither one of these did anything for me i checked my battery and it is good
checked links on m alt they are good
i have head lights brake lights and a dome light that works
when i put my key in and tuen it to me i get the radio to work but that is all that works in my truck
can someone tell me what to do please thanks and god bless
Check power connection at starter while your at it.
looked at the ground wire and it's good
i re-re-placed the fuseable link on the soloind no dice
looked for loose wires around the engine all good
looked under the dash panel at the fuses
all are good -except i found one ( shunt fuse ) that would not light up on my tester light what does a ( shunt fuse ) do any way
If the ground is a stud or bolt remove and clean the threads.
did not work
i found 3 red wires on my fire wall and tugged on them and everything came back on
so now i have to bolt my starter back up and make sure i can start it will post back tomorrow with the area and wires i found
i went for a test drive today after tugging those wires and all went well
i will test and look at those wires this weekend to futher inspect them
and will post back on what i find out about the 3 red wired on my firewall
i know one red wire runs over to my blower motor relay
and the other 2 will find out sat
Good Luck
My 95 S-10 cut out driving the other day. Seems like an electrical problem, as the air bag light flashed, the dials jumped, and then the engine cut out. It started again, and ran for a couple or days, but this morning it cut out again for good. Also, the revs dropped and almost cut out when i put it into reverse (manual trans.)
Here's the thing, the battery is fine, and the starter motor is turning, but none of the dash gauges or lights are on. The internal lights work okay, and the brake lights, headlight etc. even the radio, just none of the dash lights or gauges, and the enigines not firing. Fuses are all good, and can't see anything obviously wrong with the wiring.
So any ideas guys? I'm an amature when it comes to home mechanics, but any ideas, help, or things you recon i should check would be greatfully received.
Tada and thanks;
if you are looking from the tailgate my ( right ) ( Tail light ) has blinker and brake and reverse light working ( BUT ) my running light and license plate light are not working ( only on one side )
can you please help me out
thanks and god bless
i was told that there is a ( computer attached ) to the back ( tail lights ) but i can not find and do not know what it looks like or even where to start
more advice or more opinons would be great thanks for the help so far
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f98/gonogo/379926Parklamppower.jpg
(CKT 1324, CKT 2509, CKT 2609) Tail lamp harness, on the center inside of the rear crossmember
A month after my incident a person with a 2004 tahoe had there vehicle burst into flames outside a store approximately 30 miles from where I live. GM also claimed enviromental factors in this incident. I guess we will just have to wait until one or more persons are killed because of these enviromental electrical incidents before GM admits that their wire harness location is the real probelm.
So if you are in the market for a lightduty truck think twice about the Chevrolet and GM lines of vehicles.
Any recommendations on where to start looking or where to get complete set of wiring schematics?
Thanks,
Ken
1.) Instrument clusters on 94' and later vehicles are CRAP! You cannot repair nor service them with "resistor kits or any of that nonsense so dont waste your time. If you decide to replace it choose a nice aftermarket one that you like (will usually be cheaper than OE part and you will not be condoning the manufacturers original incompetance) but also remember you are required to have the new onw "mapped" as to set the odometer to the mileage of your current one.
2.) IGNITION SWITCH FAILURE and/or bad ground. Start your engine then wiggle your key and switch assembly...you will be surprised how many issued this will cause if it fails...radio crackling or cutting out, lights acting up, guages acting up, engine running rough and/or dying, and so on and so forth.
3.) Fuse box (engine and under dash) as described above these horrible wires break continuity but APPEAR fine. You must use and ohm meter to check for breaks in the wire from start to finish (dont forget to contort the wire and watch meter for variations)
4.) Bad chassis to engine ground straps. CHECK THEM ALL ! ! ! ! Again, substandard materials that corrode and fail because they SUCK
****BE SURE TO BE CAREFULE OF ALL YELLOW CONNECTORS ! These are part of the SRS system and can cause airbags to deploy if tampered with. If you absolutely must mess with these DISCONNECT THE BATTERY ! It usually will cause injury if deployed and can cause DEATH.****
Bottom line is that I am a GM guy but will be the first to tell you that the ENTIRE automotive industry is using substandard practices while building our vehicles but they are not entirely to blame. It should be illegal for these common but critical issues to be ignored and passed on to us to repair and recall campaigns should be issued. Maybe if enough of us contact our local and federal agencies enough to be a thorn in their side we will see something happen. I am ready, so lets do it. Feel free to email me with any specific questions. BE SAFE and good luck. GOD Bless.
KNGJMZ
The issue started where the gauges other than the oil pressure and volt would drop off and the transmission (auto) would then be stuck in third gear even after the gauges would shoot back on. The problem got worse over a year (gauges dropping off more often and transmission stuck in third). Six codes pulled up that ECM/trans sensors. I just had a new ECM installed. Now the gauges show up until I actually start the engine, then they drop off immeditately with a jump on for a second ever so often and trans is stuck in third. I have been able to manually shift to 2nd starting off from a stop and then manually shifting to third in order to keep from killing the transmision. Unable to manually go into first or forth and no gauges makes for a interesting drive. Any ideas. I don't want to just start replacing transmission sensors in hopes for solving the issue.
Side note: before replacing the ECM "sometimes" the gauges stayed on and the transmission worked perfectly. The day I dropped it off to have ECM put in a 10 minute trip it ran perfectly no issues start from house to shop (of course) but knew it was there so had them do the ECM anyway hoping to resolve issue.
It took the shop 4 tries to get ECM to pass security set up to allow engine to run.
Does this sound like a poor ground, wire short, bad ignition column cylinder, or trans sensor or other? I have seen others with this issue on the net but have not seen a direct answer for 2002 s10 v6 automatic.
Engine has never skipped a beat during all this nonsense.
A VERY BIG THANKS in advance.
RD
03-15-2009, 09:02 PM
I have a 2003 s-10 truck, and I have been having many problems with this truck. Right now i get SERVICE CODES P0758, P0740, P0753, P0785, and i have replaced the TCC solenoid and the wiring harness, i have also replaced both a and b solenoids. and still had the codes showing. I was told to try the ignition switch harnes, and that also did not fix my problems. I have no gauges,(only alt, and oil pressure), and it feels like i am stuck in 2nd gear, and there seems to be no power to go at all. Could it be my computer needs to be flashed or maybe a relay i don't know about? Please Help. Thanx