Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Electrical Problems

1234568

Comments

  • chrisg98s10chrisg98s10 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 1998 cevey s10. 2.2 5 speed. i have had this problem for some time. i will be driving down the road and all of a sudden my gauges go crazy and the check engine light comes on and it dies. i can start it back up but it will just keep dieing. it happens so randomly . i have replaced the crankshaft sencor and the camshaft sencor but it keeps doing this to me. i dont know what it is and i really need some answers to help me figure this problem out! i just keep putting money in to this problem and nothing seems to fix it! im thinking of replacing the ignition switch next! any info on this issue i would be very greatful. thanks
  • meatemeate Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 s10 with 4.3 5 speed. That does the same thing. I have an idea when the truck is going to act up when my volt meter start to "float". Usually the voltmeter stays in the 12 o'clock straight up. When it floats it goes from 12 o'clock to about 10 o'clock when it drops below 10. when the gauges go wild and the truck dies which could be at anytime it could be fatal. It is rather random it has messed up in about 6 weeks. Any one have any ideas.
  • mc22x3mc22x3 Member Posts: 6
    check to make sure the positive bat cable isn't touching the exaust manafold somewhere.
    mc22x3
  • cbrowne439cbrowne439 Member Posts: 2
    When first started in the morning the dash lights and the taillights will not operate. I also notice a bussing sound from under the dashboard. Over time the buss starts to quite down. After a while it will stop all together and the lights will start working. I have checked the fuses and I have also replaced the headlight switch. I dont know what to check next.
  • cbrowne439cbrowne439 Member Posts: 2
    after some more checking I found that one of the connectors to the fuse block under the hood had a loose connection. I secured the harness and it seams to have solved th problem.
  • akjefferyakjeffery Member Posts: 9
    MY 2002 just decided to light up its check engine light. I took it into the local auto zone to see what the code it was well my ECM is not getting any power I wiggled all teh wires behind it and still nothing. Does any one have a clue on how to fix this so I can see what is going on this is my only vehicle I have that is running.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Has to be a code for something else, you could not drive it to auto zone with no power to ECM.
  • akjefferyakjeffery Member Posts: 9
    It is the on board diagnostic plug. that has no power to it. Looks like I will have to wire chase but do not know which one of the four is supposed to be the hot lead wire
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Cig fuse powers diagnostic plug.
  • akjefferyakjeffery Member Posts: 9
    Thanks who would have thought of that. Okay the fuse was blown out so now I am going to trek on back to auto zone and see if they can read the code for me.
  • jt97sonomajt97sonoma Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem on my 97 Sonoma 2.2, 4cyl, 2wd.
    When this happens, I hear a sound as if someone/something was banging once on the firewall and I get a whining sound from the alternator. The speedometer then behaves like a tachometer, responding to engine revs instead of speed.

    For some time, turning the engine off and waiting a few moments would bring things back to normal.

    In the past few days, it wasn't possible to re-start the engine. It acted as if the battery was discharged, with starter clicking sound and gauges dimming. The battery was fully charged though. Opening the hood and wiggling all the cables that lead to black boxes now brings things back and I can start and drive again - until next time.

    Any help would be very much appreciated.
  • mvgrace13mvgrace13 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Chevy S10, recently the gauges and lights on dash starting just turning off then right back on now they flicker on & off continuosly, radio will turn on & off. The guages start going haywire. So far my truck hasn't actually turned off but want to head off any problems. Any ideas/suggestions?
  • mc22x3mc22x3 Member Posts: 6
    you might check for a loose ground
  • lockitup1lockitup1 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1995 chevy s10. i was driving along and all of a sudden there was a smell of something burning and a little bit of smoke coming out of the heater vent next to the driver side window. i pulled over and took part of the dash apart and didnt see any damage. popped the hood and still no damage. checked all the fuses and they were all still in working order. I am at a complete loss and have no idea on what couldve caused this! any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!! thanks
  • lilbearlilbear Member Posts: 4
    try a battery
  • gmc1991gmc1991 Member Posts: 11
    i have a ( 1991 Gmc Sonoma 4.3 v6 ext cab truck )
    i went to go and start it the other day it worked i then turned on my heater and the truck just died and never re-gained it's power back
    with that said

    i changed my ( ign switch on the lower column ) and changed the fusible link in the starter soliod ) neither one of these did anything for me i checked my battery and it is good
    checked links on m alt they are good

    i have head lights brake lights and a dome light that works

    when i put my key in and tuen it to me i get the radio to work but that is all that works in my truck

    can someone tell me what to do please thanks and god bless
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Check battery ground at engine. The body ground is a separate wire.
    Check power connection at starter while your at it.
  • gmc1991gmc1991 Member Posts: 11
    ok i will check out the grounds power and neg. wires i will post back what i find if you think of anything else let me know thanks for the info
  • gmc1991gmc1991 Member Posts: 11
    no dice i looked at the power wire going to the starter and it's good
    looked at the ground wire and it's good

    i re-re-placed the fuseable link on the soloind no dice

    looked for loose wires around the engine all good

    looked under the dash panel at the fuses

    all are good -except i found one ( shunt fuse ) that would not light up on my tester light what does a ( shunt fuse ) do any way
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Looking is not good enough, need to remove clean and reinstall.
    If the ground is a stud or bolt remove and clean the threads.
  • gmc1991gmc1991 Member Posts: 11
    ok will do thanks i will post back tomorrow around 12:00 p.m.
  • gmc1991gmc1991 Member Posts: 11
    ok so i cleaned all pos and neg connections

    did not work

    i found 3 red wires on my fire wall and tugged on them and everything came back on

    so now i have to bolt my starter back up and make sure i can start it will post back tomorrow with the area and wires i found
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Yes, red wires would be power. Was not sure your truck had firewall wires, not too familiar with your age truck. Mines a 99.
  • gmc1991gmc1991 Member Posts: 11
    i was told that the red wires on my fire wall are ( a junction box ) that has fusiable links one the red wires but i can not find or find anything that is loose or burned on these wires but tugging them seems to make it all work
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Well something is not right if tugging brings the power back.
  • gmc1991gmc1991 Member Posts: 11
    you can say that again

    i went for a test drive today after tugging those wires and all went well
    i will test and look at those wires this weekend to futher inspect them

    and will post back on what i find out about the 3 red wired on my firewall

    i know one red wire runs over to my blower motor relay

    and the other 2 will find out sat
  • wnysorvrwnysorvr Member Posts: 2
  • wnysorvrwnysorvr Member Posts: 2
    i have a 03 s10 extreme problem is when the head lights are off interior lights dont work when you turn headlights on all the lights on dash turn on like when you first start the car also you cant turn the headlights on manualy only the automatic headlights work any ideas
  • diskey10diskey10 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I was wondering how you resolved this problem? I have a 1991 Suburban, that also buzzes a relay behind the dash when I honk the horn. Also, when I honk the horn, the rear dome light flickers. Any help would be much appreciated.
  • bruce1313bruce1313 Member Posts: 3
    Hey there!, found a bad ground and it solved my problems!

    Good Luck
  • gar9gar9 Member Posts: 1
    Any ideas on this one guys?
    My 95 S-10 cut out driving the other day. Seems like an electrical problem, as the air bag light flashed, the dials jumped, and then the engine cut out. It started again, and ran for a couple or days, but this morning it cut out again for good. Also, the revs dropped and almost cut out when i put it into reverse (manual trans.)
    Here's the thing, the battery is fine, and the starter motor is turning, but none of the dash gauges or lights are on. The internal lights work okay, and the brake lights, headlight etc. even the radio, just none of the dash lights or gauges, and the enigines not firing. Fuses are all good, and can't see anything obviously wrong with the wiring.
    So any ideas guys? I'm an amature when it comes to home mechanics, but any ideas, help, or things you recon i should check would be greatfully received.
    Tada and thanks;
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Most likely ignition switch, not key, the electrical. Easy check. With key on run see what fuses have no 12 volt power that should have. I use a 12 volt test light for this check.
  • mc22x3mc22x3 Member Posts: 6
    check your starter solenoid, then check for a short in the wire between the clutch safety switch and the solenoid. took me a lot of time and headaches and 2 solenoids to figure this one out.
  • gmc1991gmc1991 Member Posts: 11
    i have a ( 1998 GMC Sonoma 2.2 4 cyl )

    if you are looking from the tailgate my ( right ) ( Tail light ) has blinker and brake and reverse light working ( BUT ) my running light and license plate light are not working ( only on one side )

    can you please help me out

    thanks and god bless
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    check for bad ground. I had a similar problem where the turn signals and reverse lights would go all funky. I found a bad ground under the bed by the frame on the driver's side. Look under the bed near the frame rails for wire looms and see if there is a ground wire there that has frayed or come loose or something of that nature.
  • gmc1991gmc1991 Member Posts: 11
    i have looked for a ( Bad Ground ) all good there i have even ( Changed ) ( Bulbs ) nothing worked

    i was told that there is a ( computer attached ) to the back ( tail lights ) but i can not find and do not know what it looks like or even where to start

    more advice or more opinons would be great thanks for the help so far
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    This may help you out. I like to trouble shoot lights with a 12 volt test light, very cheap.

    http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f98/gonogo/379926Parklamppower.jpg
  • gmc1991gmc1991 Member Posts: 11
    i will try this out today thank you i will post back and tell you what happened
  • gmc1991gmc1991 Member Posts: 11
    that really didnt do anything :( i checked every wire i was getting nothing on the side that i am having trouble on :( and everything was good on the other side :) any other ideas that i could try ?
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Look at the schematic, power starts at RR PRK fuse 10 A, need 12 volts there. Splice pack SP 400 connections there. Start at fuse for power.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    I looked up splice pack SP400.

    (CKT 1324, CKT 2509, CKT 2609) Tail lamp harness, on the center inside of the rear crossmember
  • ttsnowttsnow Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2004 chevrolet S-10 truck. Since early winter of this year I started having minor electrical issues. Interior lights not shutting off, alarm going off in the middle of the night, radio and speaker problems the cruise control stopped working. Then one day as my girlfriend was pulling out of her fathers driveway the drivers side air bag suddenly deployed in her face. Thank God it didn't happen a minute later. As an accident no doubt would have occurred. Possibly a fatal one. GM inspected the vehicle and informed me that the wire harness that runs directly under the drivers feet had been damaged resulting in the electrical problems and airbag deployment. This they (GM) claims was a result of enviromental factors (driver getting in the vehicle with snow on their feet.) Then they said there was nothing they could do about it. And I should take it up with my insurance company. The repair cost for this would be approx $2500. And ther is no after market wire harness and the damaged wire would just be spliced.

    A month after my incident a person with a 2004 tahoe had there vehicle burst into flames outside a store approximately 30 miles from where I live. GM also claimed enviromental factors in this incident. I guess we will just have to wait until one or more persons are killed because of these enviromental electrical incidents before GM admits that their wire harness location is the real probelm.

    So if you are in the market for a lightduty truck think twice about the Chevrolet and GM lines of vehicles.
  • tjf5tjf5 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure this out? Mine is doing the same thing. Please help!
  • willieperkinswillieperkins Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Chevy S-10 with some of the same problems, horn sounding in the middle of the night etc. The problem first happen when the vehicle was new and the GM dealership said that they had fixed it. Now 7 years later it has reappeared.. I also have other problems. Please post any additional information on this problem. Thanks
  • dhearndhearn Member Posts: 1
    Just wandering if this problem got fixed. My 95 S10 pickup just started doing the same. It was intermitten for about 3 days now it is constant. I changed the alternator(which was still under warranty) but is still doing the same thing. Every time I turn the switch on the #4 fuse blows and the system quits charging, dash instruments quit, motor starts running rough and the transmission starts acting crazy.
  • caravankencaravanken Member Posts: 1
    2003 GMC Sonoma - Both odometer and auto shift indicator lights (LED) inop. All other electrical components appear to be working. Lights went out for about a week and then came back on for several days, then they went out again. I purchased a Haynes manual but schematics are vague or non-existent. I am almost sure there is a connection issue "somewhere" but not sure where to start looking without schematic.

    Any recommendations on where to start looking or where to get complete set of wiring schematics?

    Thanks,
    Ken
  • kngjmzkngjmz Member Posts: 2
    Hello there. I am a new member to the site and I own a 99' GMC Sonoma. I have extensive working knowledge of GM's absolutely substandard wiring, parts and customer service so I will help you as much as I can. The advice I am giving should help many of you who have posted questions so here we go. My 01' Astro and my 99' Sonoma are both showing signs of extensive electrical issues and because of this I have done extensive research and troubleshooting as to prevent further damage and catostrophic failure such as airbags deploying and fires. YOU NEED TO KNOW THAT ALL WIRING IN LATE MODEL VEHICLES IS SUBSTANDARD AND VERY DANGEROUS ALL DONE TO SAVE COMPANIES MONEY...IT IS NOT JUST GM. We have our governing agencies to thank for the lax requirements. The new standard for automotive wiring is to place 2-4 copper strands in each wire instead of the "old fashioned" bundle and these will fail. The only way to remedy this is to spend the extra money for a HIGH QUALITY aftermarket harness and devote 20-30 hours of labor changing it all out (should you decide to do this, I recommend boxing up the original wires and fed-exing it to your local transportation authorities with a pleasant thank you card for their hard work). However there are common faults in GM's that could help you save time and money.

    1.) Instrument clusters on 94' and later vehicles are CRAP! You cannot repair nor service them with "resistor kits or any of that nonsense so dont waste your time. If you decide to replace it choose a nice aftermarket one that you like (will usually be cheaper than OE part and you will not be condoning the manufacturers original incompetance) but also remember you are required to have the new onw "mapped" as to set the odometer to the mileage of your current one.

    2.) IGNITION SWITCH FAILURE and/or bad ground. Start your engine then wiggle your key and switch assembly...you will be surprised how many issued this will cause if it fails...radio crackling or cutting out, lights acting up, guages acting up, engine running rough and/or dying, and so on and so forth.

    3.) Fuse box (engine and under dash) as described above these horrible wires break continuity but APPEAR fine. You must use and ohm meter to check for breaks in the wire from start to finish (dont forget to contort the wire and watch meter for variations)

    4.) Bad chassis to engine ground straps. CHECK THEM ALL ! ! ! ! Again, substandard materials that corrode and fail because they SUCK

    ****BE SURE TO BE CAREFULE OF ALL YELLOW CONNECTORS ! These are part of the SRS system and can cause airbags to deploy if tampered with. If you absolutely must mess with these DISCONNECT THE BATTERY ! It usually will cause injury if deployed and can cause DEATH.****

    Bottom line is that I am a GM guy but will be the first to tell you that the ENTIRE automotive industry is using substandard practices while building our vehicles but they are not entirely to blame. It should be illegal for these common but critical issues to be ignored and passed on to us to repair and recall campaigns should be issued. Maybe if enough of us contact our local and federal agencies enough to be a thorn in their side we will see something happen. I am ready, so lets do it. Feel free to email me with any specific questions. BE SAFE and good luck. GOD Bless.

    KNGJMZ
  • rdv6s10rdv6s10 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 v6 auto s10.
    The issue started where the gauges other than the oil pressure and volt would drop off and the transmission (auto) would then be stuck in third gear even after the gauges would shoot back on. The problem got worse over a year (gauges dropping off more often and transmission stuck in third). Six codes pulled up that ECM/trans sensors. I just had a new ECM installed. Now the gauges show up until I actually start the engine, then they drop off immeditately with a jump on for a second ever so often and trans is stuck in third. I have been able to manually shift to 2nd starting off from a stop and then manually shifting to third in order to keep from killing the transmision. Unable to manually go into first or forth and no gauges makes for a interesting drive. Any ideas. I don't want to just start replacing transmission sensors in hopes for solving the issue.
    Side note: before replacing the ECM "sometimes" the gauges stayed on and the transmission worked perfectly. The day I dropped it off to have ECM put in a 10 minute trip it ran perfectly no issues start from house to shop (of course) but knew it was there so had them do the ECM anyway hoping to resolve issue.
    It took the shop 4 tries to get ECM to pass security set up to allow engine to run.

    Does this sound like a poor ground, wire short, bad ignition column cylinder, or trans sensor or other? I have seen others with this issue on the net but have not seen a direct answer for 2002 s10 v6 automatic.

    Engine has never skipped a beat during all this nonsense.

    A VERY BIG THANKS in advance.
    RD
  • rdv6s10rdv6s10 Member Posts: 3
    Here is another blogger that I found with the same issues.

    03-15-2009, 09:02 PM
    I have a 2003 s-10 truck, and I have been having many problems with this truck. Right now i get SERVICE CODES P0758, P0740, P0753, P0785, and i have replaced the TCC solenoid and the wiring harness, i have also replaced both a and b solenoids. and still had the codes showing. I was told to try the ignition switch harnes, and that also did not fix my problems. I have no gauges,(only alt, and oil pressure), and it feels like i am stuck in 2nd gear, and there seems to be no power to go at all. Could it be my computer needs to be flashed or maybe a relay i don't know about? Please Help. Thanx
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Not sure what he meant by ignition switch harness. The ignition switch will cause this problem, the electrical one, not key.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles