I had my battery replaced in my 05 Suburban today...after the gentleman replaced my battery the ac on the driver and passenger side started blowing out hot air. The driver side stopped after a few minutes but the passenger side is still blowing hot air. I have tried turning that side to hot and then back to cold but with no luck.
Hello Katrinag, I am from GM Customer Service. Can you please email me more information about your situation so I can look into your concern further? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you, Mariah GM Customer Service
Did you ever solve the problem with the blower speeeds fluctuating? I have the same problem with a "07 sub, dealer replaced an actuator with no effect.
We just experienced this problem for the first time today. My wife was driving our '05 tahoe when all of a sudden it started blasting full heat out the front vents! Nice for the first day of summer. After I came home, I took it out and couldn't repeat the problem. We have been having other issues recently like the seat heaters coming on randomly & our XM radio changing stations randomly, this all since the dealer tried and failed to get the Navigation system working. So I tried a reboot by disconnecting the battery for about ten minutes and then reconnecting it. Well once I started it up again, the front AC was a blast furnace. The compressor is kicking in and everything points to it trying to cool but its a blast furnace. I shut the car off and turned it on again, still a blast furnace. Once I am done typing this, I am going to go back out and I am crossing my fingers that it will be cold so we can drive it. Was really happy with this GM certified vehicle until all this stuff started happening, 3000 miles out of the 12k warranty that came with it. If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them, otherwise its off to the dealer where I am sure a large bill will be the result.
Hello Whytenoise, I apologize that you experienced a concerns with your vehicle. Unfortunately, I cannot diagnose your vehicle over the internet. You are going to have to have a service tech look at the problem. I would explain to the dealership that these problems started after they tried to fix the Navigation system. They may help you out with the repairs because of it. If you have any further questions please let me know. Thank you, Mariah GM Customer Service
I have 2001 LT Surburban. I have the following problems with the environment controls: 1. the blower only runs when set to the max setting. 2. the compressor will not run (for AC or defrost).
The fuses and compressor belt are fine. The compressor was replaced 4 years ago and had always worked great since then.
I could have multiple problems but was thinking of first replacing the Heater/AC controls. Does this sound like a good first step?
I have a 2000 Chevy Suburban. Front A/C blows cool air but the Rear blows cold. I have check freon level gauge stated it was good. Compresser and cluch seem to be fine. Belt is good. Can anybody tell me what the deal is? Had good cold air last year. I have disconneted and reconnected the batt. still same air.
Hi whytenoise, We have two Tahoes ('02 and '05) and an '05 Suburban that have all experienced this before. Turning the engine off and then back on usually corrects the problem. I have also found that the problem sometimes occurs when the Oil Change Light comes on. Resetting the light fixes the problem. (This tells me it is some sort of computer glich.) I asked the mechanic at the local dealer and they "offered" to reprogram the computer for $85 to see if it would help. If this didn't fix it, the next step was to replace all of the damper motors in the dash for several hundred dollars. I have decided to live with the problem for now.
Our AC problem was never intermittent. Once it failed it stayed that way so we took it to the dealer and they said the fix was the computer update. We got the update for $90 and it worked. They couldn't recreate the channel change or heated seats issue so they basically blew it off, saying they can't try and fix it if it doesn't happen to them.
All in All I was NOT happy with the way this was handled. Yes their software update fixed the problem, but why should I have to spend $90 for them to fix their own buggy software?? Then with the other issues: by definition, intermittent means that it does not happen all the time! But instead of even attempting to diagnose the problem they just made me pay for the time it took them to NOT have it happen to them and said "sorry, we couldn't make it happen so we can't do anything about it." :mad:
I have an 01 Suburban with auto climate control. The AC compressor will not start when the "snowflake" button is pushed (light blinks then goes out). Other times with the AC working, the light will go out and the temp begins to rise. This happens when the outside temp is above 65F. It happens more when it is raining or after a rain. The owner's manual mentions the AC will not work if the outside temp is too low to make the AC ineffective. Does anyone know how to correct this problem?
I guess I didn't knock hard enough. This afternoon hot air started blowing just on the drivers side, all passenger vents were normal. When we shut the vehicle off and turned it on again the problem went away. I hate the uncertainty of the random failures and ,as a result, doubt I will buy another Chevy/GMC product again.
new on here....please help if you 95 tahoe the ac control panel(the panel that controls hot and cold fan speek turn ac on and of recirculate if it blows on feet or face etc) completely quit working. My son and I finally figured out it was the control panel so i replaced it and everything worked perfectly for 2-3 days. Then today it completely quit again.
What is making it do this?
As a side note when the control panel quit the cruise control quit as well. when i replaced the panel the cruise control started back working and now it quit again. the cruise control is on the turn signal
Check for a bad ground connection. I had a bad ground between the control and the sensor in the roof above your driver side head. Check for corrosion at connections. Good luck.
The a/c with not get cold as it should. Blows cool air. Recharged system. Replaced Orifice. Seems as if there is competing heat blowing across evaporator core. Return from Evaporator core is not cold like it should be, only ambient. Any suggestions.
I have a 2004 tahoe, my husband went out to start it after a couple of days siting and it was dead, he took the battery out and recharged it and now the AC is blowing hot air, one time it was working and then after stopping and restarting it blew hot, it was almost like it was setting the temp to 75 by itself, I have called around and the dealer says to bring in to diagnose 80.00 some say it can be a actuator gone bad. Any ideas why it would do this after the battery was taken out? could it be a Alternator? :confuse:
That is EXACTLY what my Suburban did when I had the battery replaced. I took it to a GM dealership, really nice guy, explained to me that when you shut your car off the computer automatically goes to default. The default is Heat and Defrost. So my controls were stuck but only on the passenger side. So he kept, turning the knob to lower and raise the temperature...shutting my car off and the turning it back on...and just trying to "trick" the computer. Eventually after about 20 minutes he got it to work. He said this could last me a week or 10 more years. If it happened again he would recommend replacing the actuator which is REALLY expensive. But so far it has worked. I hope this helps.
do you know when he turned the knobs to lower the temp did he shut off the car and then turn it up and shut off the car? Just trying to get a idea on how he tricked it to work, thanks
Have you had the freon level, and hi/low pressures checked by an A/C shop?
In order for A/C to work, you need the correct amount of freon. Can't be too much freon, or the compressor will not be able to pull down the low side enough, which won't give you enough pressure differential across the orifice, and won't give enough cooling. Can't be too little freon, or won't be able to pump up the high side to a high enough pressure, same results.
Orifice needs to be sized correctly and unclogged, to allow a specific flow through it.
Compressor seals needs to pump up enough pressure, to allow this all to work....and turn on and off correctly via the pressure switches and clutch, to keep the pressures correct and the flow correct.
There are a number of other pressure switches, relays, and other components which are all required to make this all work as designed. This is similar, but a more difficult environment than a home air conditioner....given varying engine/compressor speeds, varying air flow speeds thru the radiator, and the lack of insulation in the passenger compartment.
An A/C shop has the tools and knowledge to figure out just which piece or pieces aren't working correctly, and fix it. A homeowner can't even check the most basic functions without a set of pressure gauges.
The auto climate control is not working correctly. The A/C blows cold, but only blows through the defroster. It will not blow out through the dash vents or floor.
I am having problems with my ac system when i turn it on my high side hose starts vibrating, the ac clutch turns off when i give it gas and the hose stops. Then when i let go of the gas the clutch turns back on and the hose dose the same. I changed the orifice tube and still dose the same thing. what can it be?
The Suburban has climate control and front and rear air.It is also a 2003. The front will go to hot at times, while it still is blowing cold out the rear, and compressor still running as it should then after a sometimes brief period of time will start blowing cold again. Any suggestions, I am thinking control panel, but would like some help!!!
:confuse: OK, I'll shoot. I have dual zones(front/rear) in my 1999 Suburban. For some odd reason, the front/driver zone blows warm while the rear is just peachy. Any idea, guys? I just was not fun driving home a week ago from our trout fishing trip in Bennett Springs, MO. The heat index was about 115f.
I'm in the same boat as you are.....tell me if you get any pointers. I did find and fixed a leak in my ac system, but I'd think that this would affect the "whole" thing and not just the front. Best of luck.
'05 Tahoe with digital climate controls and daul AC. The front AC does not blow anything at all when stopped, when you start moving it starts blowing after about 20 mph. It will only blow at 1 speed regaurdless of what you select even if it is on automatic. Rear AC works fine. Anyone have any ideas?
2 days ago I had a dead battery, and got a jump start, then let the engine run for 1 hour to recharge the battery. It's cranking fine since then. Immediately after recharging the battery, the A/C system was working fine for one day. The truck sat idle yesterday, and today the front A/C does not blow anything, but the rear A/C seems to be working normally. I checked all the related fuses and all are OK. After reading several of the posts on this subject area, it seems my problem may be related to the system computer - - - or could it be something else (relay, bad fan motor, etc). Prior to this I havent had any problems w/ the A/C. Car has about 70,000 miles.
The dealership has computerized diagnostic checks that they can perform to pinpoint this problem. You'll be stumbling around trying to diagnose it yourself, but you should be looking in the area of the blower motor control processor, the blower motor itself, fan up/down switch outputs, high resistance in either the battery power or ground connection and wiring harnesses, the power to these circuits, etc.
Sounds like a lot of us are having the same or simmilar problems with our climate controll. I have the model that controlls front left, front right, and rear. After having my batterey run compleatly dead, my climate controll would blow hot air but the temperature adjustment and fan level setting compleatly failed. After talking to a representative from the local auto parts store and explaining that I had already replaced the relay under the hood and checked both fuses in the fusebox located on the drivers side pannel on the side of the instrument pannel In between the drivers side door and the instrument pannel. There is a 10 amp and a 30 amp fuse for the climate controll in that fusebox. After checking that, he told me to reset the device by unplugging the power to the climate controll device. This is a very simple process and took me less than 15 minutes. The main cover around the instrument pannel is easily removed by gently pulling it away from the dash as not to break any of the plastc snaps (no screws at all) You will have to turn the key and shift the gear handle to 1 and push the turnsignal lever to the down, left turn position to remove the dash cover from around the steering wheel. After this, you will notice that the climate controll unit is also easy to remove with two snaps on either side and one 1/4 inch screw in the middle of each side. Simply remove the screws and depress the tabs on the snaps. Now unplug both harnesses on the back by squeezing the pressure snaps and pulling. Leave dissconected for 20 seconds and replace the harnesse to their origional placement. Now snap the climate controll device back in place and turn the key too see if it works. If so, replace the two screws and snap everything back together. This fixed mine and took less time than it did to write this post. My only caution is be very gentle with the plastic snaps. After this, if it still dosen' work, you might be able to find a deal on a used one at a salvage yard before shelling out the big bucks at the dealer. If it works for you like it did for me it's free and easy.
Some days the ac works fine and some days it doesn't. Could it be the ambient air sensor? I've taken my truck to a ac repairman that said the compressor, condensor, freon and everything is fine. He did spray the front of my raditor and condenser with a hose to clean it off. I'm open to suggestions.
On my 2005 suburban 1500 the front heat/AC blower only works on the highest speed. I took apart the control knob and the continuity was correct for all the speeds, so it seems to be a problem at the the fan motor or in between. Is this the resistor? Any suggestions?
Same here!! I wish I could find an answer for this?? ALSO!! Now, when the ahoe idles (at 500 to 600 rpm), for no reason, the a/c kicks on (it is turned off, both front and rear), and the rpm jumps up 500 rpm higher?!?!?! HAve you had that happen?? Please help?!?!
Hello Kirhill76, Have you had the vehicle diagnosed for the concern? How long has the concern been present in your vehicle? Thank you, Mariah GM Customer Service
The temp gauge on my 07 Suburban stopped working and shuts of my AC, says my engine is overheating, it isn't. The dealer replaced the thermostat Friday and Saturday the car did exactly the same thing?
The way you stated your original problem....."The temp gauge on my 07 Suburban stopped working and shuts of my AC, says my engine is overheating, it isn't", is somewhat confusing.
The temp gauge is an 'output' device, just basically giving you information. It would not be doing anything but telling you what the temperature is.
The engine would be creating the heat, or which the waterpump, thermostat, and radiator would then be managing the temperature to the correct range.
The temperature sensor, would be monitoring that temperature, and sending the information to the computer, which would do things like adjust fuel mixture, adjust idle speed,etc, and then tell the gauge what temp to display. Sounds like from what you write, it also turns off the A/C. This could make sense, as the A/C puts extra heat in front of the radiator as well as extra alternator load running the fans, and A/C compressor load on the engine causing it to work harder. If they had the computer programmed to shut off the A/C to reduce engine load, that would make a lot of sense.
The gauge then, displays the temperature to you.
So part of what the dealer needs to do out of that whole bunch of stuff, is figure out what's working correctly, and what isn't. Is the engine really at the correct temperature, or not. Is the sensor detecting correctly what the temperature is? Is the computer receiving that signal correctly? Is the programming using that signal, and making the correct adjustments? And then finally, is the output temperature gauge reporting the temperature correctly.
05 tahoe blower fan only blow when you are traveling about 20 mph or more. When it does run it only runs at 1 speed about half speed. Slow down or stop and it stops. Temp control works fine. Rear blower works fine.
This problem is a costly fix. The part that needs to be replaced is called an "actuator". The dashboard needs to be pulled and mechanic needs to figure out which actuator is defective. I have not had ours fixed yet but do know of 2 people who had mechanics in the family and had theirs done. I'm thinking its going to cost about $1200 .
Comments
Can anyone help??? PLEASE!
I am from GM Customer Service. Can you please email me more information about your situation so I can look into your concern further? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
Did you tell the dealership that the fix didn't take care of the problem? Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
I apologize that you experienced a concerns with your vehicle. Unfortunately, I cannot diagnose your vehicle over the internet. You are going to have to have a service tech look at the problem. I would explain to the dealership that these problems started after they tried to fix the Navigation system. They may help you out with the repairs because of it. If you have any further questions please let me know. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
1. the blower only runs when set to the max setting.
2. the compressor will not run (for AC or defrost).
The fuses and compressor belt are fine. The compressor was replaced 4 years ago and had always worked great since then.
I could have multiple problems but was thinking of first replacing the Heater/AC controls. Does this sound like a good first step?
Thank you, Bill.
We have two Tahoes ('02 and '05) and an '05 Suburban that have all experienced this before. Turning the engine off and then back on usually corrects the problem. I have also found that the problem sometimes occurs when the Oil Change Light comes on. Resetting the light fixes the problem. (This tells me it is some sort of computer glich.) I asked the mechanic at the local dealer and they "offered" to reprogram the computer for $85 to see if it would help. If this didn't fix it, the next step was to replace all of the damper motors in the dash for several hundred dollars. I have decided to live with the problem for now.
All in All I was NOT happy with the way this was handled. Yes their software update fixed the problem, but why should I have to spend $90 for them to fix their own buggy software?? Then with the other issues: by definition, intermittent means that it does not happen all the time! But instead of even attempting to diagnose the problem they just made me pay for the time it took them to NOT have it happen to them and said "sorry, we couldn't make it happen so we can't do anything about it."
:mad:
Does anyone know how to correct this problem?
Thanks,
95 tahoe the ac control panel(the panel that controls hot and cold fan speek turn ac on and of recirculate if it blows on feet or face etc) completely quit working.
My son and I finally figured out it was the control panel so i replaced it and everything worked perfectly for 2-3 days. Then today it completely quit again.
What is making it do this?
As a side note when the control panel quit the cruise control quit as well. when i replaced the panel the cruise control started back working and now it quit again. the cruise control is on the turn signal
Good luck.
In order for A/C to work, you need the correct amount of freon. Can't be too much freon, or the compressor will not be able to pull down the low side enough, which won't give you enough pressure differential across the orifice, and won't give enough cooling. Can't be too little freon, or won't be able to pump up the high side to a high enough pressure, same results.
Orifice needs to be sized correctly and unclogged, to allow a specific flow through it.
Compressor seals needs to pump up enough pressure, to allow this all to work....and turn on and off correctly via the pressure switches and clutch, to keep the pressures correct and the flow correct.
There are a number of other pressure switches, relays, and other components which are all required to make this all work as designed. This is similar, but a more difficult environment than a home air conditioner....given varying engine/compressor speeds, varying air flow speeds thru the radiator, and the lack of insulation in the passenger compartment.
An A/C shop has the tools and knowledge to figure out just which piece or pieces aren't working correctly, and fix it. A homeowner can't even check the most basic functions without a set of pressure gauges.
Good luck.
Have you had the vehicle diagnosed for the concern? How long has the concern been present in your vehicle? Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
The way you stated your original problem....."The temp gauge on my 07 Suburban stopped working and shuts of my AC, says my engine is overheating, it isn't", is somewhat confusing.
The temp gauge is an 'output' device, just basically giving you information. It would not be doing anything but telling you what the temperature is.
The engine would be creating the heat, or which the waterpump, thermostat, and radiator would then be managing the temperature to the correct range.
The temperature sensor, would be monitoring that temperature, and sending the information to the computer, which would do things like adjust fuel mixture, adjust idle speed,etc, and then tell the gauge what temp to display. Sounds like from what you write, it also turns off the A/C. This could make sense, as the A/C puts extra heat in front of the radiator as well as extra alternator load running the fans, and A/C compressor load on the engine causing it to work harder. If they had the computer programmed to shut off the A/C to reduce engine load, that would make a lot of sense.
The gauge then, displays the temperature to you.
So part of what the dealer needs to do out of that whole bunch of stuff, is figure out what's working correctly, and what isn't. Is the engine really at the correct temperature, or not. Is the sensor detecting correctly what the temperature is? Is the computer receiving that signal correctly? Is the programming using that signal, and making the correct adjustments? And then finally, is the output temperature gauge reporting the temperature correctly.