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Chevy Suburban and Tahoe AC and Heater Problems



  • Hello,

    I had the same exact problem and I fixed mine myself and saved me $100's of dollars!!!! Here's what I did......I went to YouTube and searched for the exact issue and I found this AWESOME video and website called he shows you how to troubleshoot the blower motor resistor. I followed exact instructions, went to the part store puchased the blower motor resistor and replaced it with NO problems. This happens when your blower motor resistor gets wet from A/C or rain via a clogged drain tube.

    Here's the video to watch.

    Good Luck!!
  • first of all I changed the instrument cluster and heater control already. first problem is ac/heat only comes out of the defrost. then the next is, when you hit the snowflake to turn ac on it goes hot but when you turn ac off it blows ice cold. can anyone tell me how to fix it?
  • runamuck7runamuck7 Posts: 1
    I have a 2012 2500 Suburban that has a problem getting the compressor to start after a hot soak. This only happens during the hottest part of the summer here in Arizona and has done it since new. The dealer has not been able do duplicate the problem, I showed them a video of the malfunction during it's current visit there. With the ambient temp of 110F+, during a restart after a hot soak period, the compressor does not want to come on. During the non-op, the system insists on outside air. The compressor light will light for a moment than turn off. Push for recirculate, the light will lite for a moment and then shut off, then the compressor light will shut off and stay off. This argument will continue for 2-15 minutes before the system decides it wants to come on. After it does decide to come on, the system will revert back to outside air when it starts to cool down in the cab and I will have to push the button to get it to go back to recirculate. If it makes any difference in diag, the engine is the 6.0, it has the trailer package and it is a 4 X 4. Also, when it is this hot, the engine will get hot during longer idle times (15-20 minutes). The truck does not have a pusher fan in front of the condensor. The temp gauge will go to the 3/4 mark past 210F, the fan clutch does engage the fan. Fast idle at about 1200 RPM will get it to come down. I work out in the heat, my wife dosen't. Thank you for your help.
  • spritemanspriteman Posts: 25
    I am thinking that due to the high temps your system could be in a very high pressure state in the refrigerant which would cause the system to shut down.

    Here's the info for a 2008 Suburban 2500 - that's the latest I have. I don't know if yours works the same way but I would expect it's at least similar. It explains how the A/C system works - hope this helps:

    The A/C system used on this vehicle is a non cycling system. Non cycling A/C systems use a high pressure switch to protect the A/C system from excessive pressure. The high pressure switch will OPEN the electrical signal, to the compressor clutch, in the event that the refrigerant pressure becomes excessive. After the high and low side of the A/C system pressure equalize, the high pressure switch will CLOSE. Closing the high pressure switch will complete the electrical circuit to the compressor clutch. The A/C system is also mechanically protected with the use of a high pressure relief valve. If the high pressure switch were to fail or if the refrigerant system becomes restricted and refrigerant pressure continued to rise, the high pressure relief will pop open and release refrigerant from the system.

    Let us know what you find out.

  • I just had my compressor replaced and my air is blowing cold while I moving but when I'm at a stand still, it blows warm. HELP!!
  • dsmcneildsmcneil Posts: 1
    edited August 2013
    I have a 2003 Chevy Suburban 1500, when I turn on my a/c or heat it sometimes comes on and sometimes not. If it comes on , it sometimes shuts off by itself or it will stay running even after the vehicle it shut off. Sometimes we have to remove the fuse in the fuse box under the hood and leave it out until we get back in the vehicle. When the a/c is on it is very cold and the heat is very hot as well. Could the relay be bad or could it be something else? Does anyone have these same issues and if so has your issue been resolved? Can someone please help, not sure where to start. Thanks in advance. I can be contacted at
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Emails may get you personal help but not help others. Please don't ask for "personal" help via email. We all benefit when a problem is discussed on the open forum.Thanks.
  • bruijnbruijn Posts: 1
    Our 2007 Suburban [5.3 FFV - LTZ trim] has a cold AC in front, but blows warm air for rear passengers.
    AC has been refilled twice, interior temp.sensors checked [and one replaced].
    GM dealer in the Netherlands is out of any good ideas what might cause the problem.

    Anyone who has a clue....

  • Two checks:

    1 - you need to check to see if you are generating cold refrigerant in the auxiliary expansion valve in the rear unit - take the right hand cover off of the rear/auxiliary unit and feel that when the unit is running that a cold line is coming from the expansion valve. If it is that's good because otherwise you have a more involved fix.

    2 - when you turn on the rear unit and the blower is running do you feel any kind of air coming out of the rear air vents?

    These two checks will at least give you a starting point of what's wrong.

  • seanyboyseanyboy Posts: 1
    edited September 2013
    My 2000 chev tahoe is having issues with dual climate control. Both front and back blowers are not working. sometimes front will come on in high but no ac or door actuators work.. Also not sure if issue is related but my dash has died no tach no speedo no guages. truck starts fine and runs great. Any suggestions
  • thprethpre Posts: 1
    Too Hot!!! , On a 45 degree day couldn't you just roll down your window a bit and nevermind the air cond.?
  • wondering if anyone can help me here. i have a 2003 z71 a while back i lost fan speeds 1 thru 4 on my a/c & heater control. I also lost the rear defroster around this time. I checked fuses. that didnt seem to be the problem. to get any a/c or heat i had to use the fan speed on 5 since that was the only speed i had left to use. well i lost that the other day and now i have no fan controls. i tried to change the climate control board. no luck. anyone have an idea what this could be or what i need to change? thanks for the help guys.
  • I have 2003 Suburban with similar issue, my Mechanic just change Heater control valve (Actuator) and since then everything works great.
  • I had the same issue with my 98 tahoe. I pulled the ac/heater control switch and the fan speed dial and the harness plug going to it was burned up. Replaced the switch with one I purchased from the junk yard for $30 (they cut the harness plug and gave it to me free) replaced them both and problem solved. I was told that this is a common problem for Chevy in that time period.
  • When I turn the heat on, driver side blows cold air only. Passenger side is fine. Is this a door actuator problem and if so where how do I get at it to replace it ?

    Thanks, much appreciated.

  • Thanks for the help guys! i changed the a/c heater control underneath the glove box. the board was burnt out. picked up a new one from the dealership and works like a champ! everything is working fine.
  • mp87inimp87ini Goodyear, AZPosts: 2
    technokoz said:

    We just recently purchase a used 03 Tahoe LS with the duel climate controls (not automatic). Right now the fan only works on 5. So its all or nothing. I took everything apart to check that the switch was working correctly.

    I'm guessing that there is a relay or module that actually controls the speeds of the fan.

    Anyone have any idea what and where this is?

    Try under the glove box and test the resistor in front of the blower motor. The resistor controls the fan speeds.
  • Clint48Clint48 TexasPosts: 1
    Hello everyone. I have an 04 Suburban and the front vents no longer blow, however, the rear vents work great. I have a manual A/C system. Any help would be great. Thank you.
  • iowapinkiowapink Posts: 1
    arrie said:
    Hi there treedog, I had not heard back from anybody regarding the issue until today. I am visiting in Europe and have not been able to connect to internet. This is the country with Autobahns and it feels kind of good driving 140 MPH in a car that is made for driving fast...but that is another topic. If your A/C still blows cold I would let some more refrigerant out. You can do this until you see a drop in the A/C efficiency and then add some back until it works ok again. But before letting more out you might want to make sure you have enough oil in it as oil is lost when you let refrigerant out. There is another thing to consider too, which I am thinking to do myself to my own Tahoe...replace the expansion valve. Expansion valve can be a problem as it has a very fine mesh screen with it. Over time the compressor wears and all of the metal dust that it spits out is meant to be caught by this screen on the expansion valve. Well, if this screen gets plugged too much it starts to restrict coolant flow thru it and this could be causing some trouble. The job includes vacuuming the A/C system before re-charging it.Vacuuming is possible to perform at home too. I have done this in the past a couple of times and it works fine. For vacuuming the A/C system you need to purchase another charging hose and then cut off the end that screws to the refrigerant can. Then you find a vacuum connection in your car's intake manifold (there usually are plenty of those) and see what size hose you need to get to connect to one of these ports. Then you get a proper size hose and connect it to the charger hose end that you cut the refrigerator can connector off. Now you have tools to vacuum your A/C system before re-charge. You turn off the A/C system (it should not run without refrigeranr anyway but to make sure turn it off) and start car and run it on idle. When idling the engine generates very high vacuum inside the intake manifold. Some cars over 24". When you connect the hand made hose to the A/C system service port and then the other end to the intake manifold port you will vacuum the A/C system very well. You have it "vacuuming" 15 minutes and it is pretty empty. After about 15 minutes disconnect the hose from the service port before turning off the engine. Now you are ready to re-charge the A/C system. You will start with a can of oil charge. It will go inthe system without running the engine as the vacuum in the system will pull it in. Then you start with a can of refrigerant and when that stops going in you will need the help of the compressor, i.e. turn on the A/C system for max cooling. This probably will not start the compressor as the coolant level is still so low in the system. To make compressor run you need to short the two wires on the harness that connects to the pressure sensor that is mounted on the side of the dryer bottle. A new expansion valve is very low cost item. Last one I bought for my Dodge Ram tryck cost $6 or something like that. Expansion valve is located inside the tubing where there is a union on the line just before that dryer bottle. If you run the A/C before the job you can feel the line for temperature as before the expansion valve it is hot and after the valve it is cold. Arrie

    -----------I have some questions about the expansion valve can you message me back
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