Ford Explorer Electrical Problems

7203fast · March 2009

You may need to replace your brake light switch . I had the same problem with my lights and the switch was sticking.

jbeamon · April 2009

I was a mechanic for about 12 yrs. but haven't been in the biz for about 7 more. I have a '97 Explorer V6 where the alternator light comes on intermittently while driving. Now when I have the vehicle parked, I checked the voltage. It held steady in idle at 14.0V so I rev the engine up until the light came on and watched the voltage drop to 13V. The belt doesn't seem to be slipping. Are these late model fords using internal regulators? If so, will I need to replace the alternator?

jbeamon · April 2009

Had the alternator tested, I am told that the alternator is fine. The light was intermittent and after the car warmed up, it went out then right before I had it tested, the light came on and stayed on but they said it tests fine. What gives? Could it be the diode in the alternator?

tampa04explor · April 2009

I have an electrical/mechanical clicking noise that is coming from the left rear inside (just inside tailgate on driver's side, under trim panel, down close to floor). It usually happens when I first start the vehicle when it hasn't been driven in say 24 hours. It will stop clicking on its own eventually. Sounds sort of like a relay, clicking about once per second and is relatively noisy. The vehicle has factory rear air and heat vents. I can turn up the fan speed on the rear air ducts then turn it back down and that seems to cause it to stop clicking sooner than it would if I do nothing. I definitely think it is part of the electrical circuit for the rear air conditioning/heat fan. Any ideas on what may be causing this? Could this be a problem in the electrical circuit somewhere else other than where the clicking is coming from? I have not figured out how to get behind the plastic trim panel to eyeball what is making the sound yet.

tjinpa · April 2009

I have the same problem with my 98 Mountaineer. I got the door boot pulled back and found 3 broken wires. How can i take this apart so i can repain the wires?

T J

brews62 · April 2009

I have just bought a 93 explorer. I have had a problem with no start. It is equiped with a remote start and has on 2 occations go to turn the key and nothing there. only getting 4.65 V at the remote start. Anyone with this problem or fix for this???

kmeiner03 · April 2009

All I did was pull the door boot to the side, then strip the wires that were broken then crimp on but splices. You will need a pair of wire strippers and a pair of crimpers. Do not try and use a pair of striper/crimper combo set. you won't be able to get the crimper portion of the tool into the door jamb. I think I used the blue automotive but splices. Then that's it. Crimp on the splices and your good to go.

Just a tip. It's a pain to do everything with one hand because your other hand is holding the boot out of the way, soo you may want to have someone leaning over your shoulder doing that for you as you crimp the splices onto the wires.

rstorey1 · May 2009

I have a 2001 explorer and can't get the power locks to work. They unlock but won't lock and the fob won't work iether. The rear lock works properly but door locks won't

kmeiner03 · May 2009

Do you use the FOB to unlock the car or the key?

Just for the hell of it open the drivers door and the passenger door and pull back on the rubber boot the covers the wiring harness. See if there's any broken wires in the harness. I talked to alot of people with wiring problems in the door jamb and there's usually a few broken wires. It seems to be a common problem with the Ford Explorer.

brokeford · May 2009

I have a 95 explorer. my daytime running lights stayed on and would drain the battery dead. it turned out to be the daytime running light module, located under the bumper drivers side, looks like a small amplifier, one electrical plug. the reason the lights stay on is because this module has a direct link to the battery, so if the "solenoid" sticks your lights don't turn off. the thing costs too much so i just removed mine and now the problem is fixed, however you will lose your high beams indication and emergency brake indication, and of course no daytime running lights. headlights and brights will still work. hope that helps.

blondbarnbratt · June 2009

I took my rig into the car wash tonight and when we came out to leave i turned my headlights on and the display light on my radio goes off and the radio still works just fine.. but when i turned off my headlight the display light for my clock popped back on like normal. What could be causing this issue.
Thanks for any help at all.....

denise8472 · July 2009

I have a 2002 Explorer and I'm changing the battery terminal. I purchased a universal. It does not fit because of the plastic tray that's over the battery post. Can I take that off (it's also on the positive side as well) to make it fit....and why would the ground wire spark when I'm trying to hook things back up? I see a set of ground wires..there are 2--i had to cut the plastic off to expose more wire...do they still need to be separated? Also, when I touch the ground wire to the new terminal, the lights flash and I hear a click as well as some sparks. I don't have anyone with mechanical knowledge available in the neighborhood at the moment and I really need to get this done...I have no other transportation...Thanks!

dallasm · July 2009

I got a real electrical challenge for you "experts" out there. Ready?
First thing to go out was my side mirrors. Then I started having problems with the car starting which was thought to be the fuel pump but now turns out to be electrical. Every now and then i have to pop the hood and wiggle the fuse box to get the fuel pump to kick in. Now my windows dont work and that a/c has cut out. Tomorrow they might work but today they dont. Periodically they work. Its like the car has a mind of its own and windows and a/c will work only when it wants too. Anyone out there deal with this problem? I sure would appreciate some advice on this because driving around tucson , arizona with the windows up and NO A/C is gonna kill me.

thanks

kmeiner03 · July 2009

I never claim to be an expert. just a guy that loves to fix things. Anyways, if I were you I would find the cpu and pull every plug off and check each pin for corrosion. Since you seem to have random problems scattered in different areas I would start there.

dallasm · July 2009

Where is the cpu?

fishinjim · July 2009

I have a 2005 Explorer V8 Limited.
Yesterday, driving it, AC and stereo playing. We turned on the headlights and the AC stopped blowing, the console lights dimmed, and the radio stopped playing. Turning the headlights off and everything started back working.

Today, I had the battery tested and it tested OK. Placing the battery back in the car and now everything works again.

Any ideas?

Jim

kmeiner03 · July 2009

did you have your altenator tested? I've had simmilar problems in the past and it ended up being the alternator. and during the problems I never got the battery light on the dash.

-kevin

fishinjim · July 2009

I have not had the alternator tested. I ran the system self check from the dash and it passed the Charging System test but I will have it checked as well.

Jim

fishinjim · July 2009

ok, I had autozone test the alternator and it tested ok.
another incident today - my wife was driving the kids down the expressway and the open door dingdingding sound happened.
It's off to the dealer tomorrow morning but it's gonna be very hard to diagnose.

fishinjim · July 2009

I have a 2005 Ford Explorer Limited and although I wasn't in a carwash, I had the exact problem with my headlights and display console.

I don't have a resolution yet but I did unplug my battery for a good 20 or so minutes (to have it tested) and when I plugged it back in, everything went back to normal.

Jim

cvansickle · July 2009

I recently purchased a 2002 Ford Explorer.
So far.... OK
However, I have had it less then 3 weeks and have had to change the fuse for the electric seats 3 times.
Does anyone have any ideas of what I can do to prevent this??
Thanks in advance!!

lowertwin · August 2009

My 98 Ford Explorer with 57,000 miles was parked for a couple of months and the battery discharged, when trying to jump start it , it hits and run momentary, then it just grinds or cranks. Next time I try to start it, hits then dies.

Since the battery was dead does the computor need be reset? Is there a security code for this?

Or is it the fuel pump?

Please Help....

Thanks

kmeiner03 · August 2009

The computer should be fine. I never heard of a computer needing to be reset after a dead battery. What I would do is install a brand new battery. You can jump start the old one all you want but if your battery won't hold a charge then it's worthless to keep. Also, when jumpstarting if you don't have a good ground the car won't start nor will it keep running if it does start.

The grinding may be the starter. When you stop cranking the engine if the starter is still engaged to the flywheel then you will hear grinding noises.

I would start with a new battery, make sure the starter works properly, then once the car is running put a meter on the new battery and make sure your getting 14VDC. If you don't get something close to 14 VDC then that tells you your alternator is bad.

hope this helps

smacarth · September 2009

Hello -- I have a 2008 Explorer Eddie Bauer with Microsoft Sync. I have recently been having trouble with the steering wheel controls which operate the radio. The volume control will change the channel, the channel control will change the input source... It appears to be random. Some times the controls won't work at all. I performed both a limited and a full reset on Microsoft Sync without any help. Has anyone seen this issue before?

puessies · September 2009

I've got a '96 Explorer 2dr..recently the radio/blower control in the rear of the center console started smoking and blew a fuse.. I replaced the control and the fuse and all the controls work, but now the right side cruise control light in the steering wheel, and all the cassette player lights are out, including the new rear contol lights in the part i replaced [only the dash radio face display is lit] anybody know if there's a reset, or what fuse might control this? or what might have gotten fried?? I'm doing process of elimination here in hopes of staying away from the bloodsucking dealer. I already tried a second control to see if that was it..no luck...thanx jc

leopold1 · October 2009

I have an 03 Eddie Bauer edition with the 4.6 L. While we were out today, the drivers side seat stopped working and the door locks and the foot pedal adjustment. Using the fob on the doors doesn't work either. The memory position also isn't working, so I had to drive home stretching for the pedals. I just bought this vehicle and have not owned one before, so don't know much about it. All of the fuses are good, but I was wondering if there is a relay that controls all of these functions. The owners manual is not a great deal of help in this matter.

2002ex · November 2009

I have a 2002 explorer. I've been having electrical problems with the headlights and looking for some answers. The headlights have been very eratic... When turning on the ignition the HL won't come on (even in Automatic position) Sometimes they turn on, sometime they don't. They will also go off and on while driving (must have fog lamps on at night just in case). Wondering if this is a problem with the switch or a internal electrical problem. Any suggestions are helpful. Thanks.

georgesars · November 2009

Working on an 08 Explorer XLT 29,000 miles doesn't want to start when you crank the key it will crank but not start. When you let go of the key it will continue to crank even though you stopped turning the key. After about 3 times of this then it starts no problem?

grandpa14 · November 2009

I have a 1995 Explorer, XLT. The brakelights don't work, except for the one overhead, on the rear door. Taillights work . Appears to be no power to the brakelite plug. Fuse is good.

dbowl300 · November 2009

Anybody out there know how I can override/deactivate the "autolamp" feature on my 1998 Ford Explorer? Though we've never used it, the switch on the mirror doesn't work. Is there a fuse we can pull? Where, exactly, is the sensor located that makes this thing automatic? Can we tape over it? Please help. Thanks!

john1953 · November 2009

As a electrician all the conditions that I am reading about seem to point to a grounded conductor or conductors in the harness. This would explain why the auto runs sometimes and other times not. Vibration may make this condition worse. Also check your connections for trailers or towing packages. If they become shorted or grounded out thaat just may cause the problem. I may inhereit a 98 explorer and it has that same issue. The person has installed a cutoff switch between the battery and the starter(harness). This seems to work but the problem is still there. When I find the problem I will post it. :confuse:

makko1 · December 2009

all my windows and sunroof randomly quit working at the same time anywhere from a couple of minuters to a couple of days then they work fine my door locks nor mirrors, i've changed out my control panel with the same results
Help

wwise · December 2009

I'm having same problem on my 02 explorer. DId you ever get the issue resolved on your explorer?

Thanks

badsun79 · December 2009

02 exploder 1st 4x4 quit working then, 10 sec delay for radio, wipers ect after key goes on and now dvr power seat is blowing fuses any ideas thanks so very much

jsoms32 · December 2009

when i turn the key on the maxi fuse for the pcm relay blows causing the fuel pump to stop working so i am unable to start it. i have tried to find a short causing the fuse to blow and have had no luck any suggestions.

kcjacks · December 2009

The time/temp/compass whatever its supposed to display in my '03 sport trac doesn't work. Neither does the left side dash lights that light up the gas gauge and tac etc. or the cruise control lights on the left hand side of the steering wheel. I got some information on how to replace the bulbs for the dash lights but how about the roof console? Are they related somehow?

dbowl300 · December 2009

After removing the overhead console, I've now located the following five (5) wires leading to the auto lamp mirror:

1) White w/Pink stripe (Park Lamp Relay Control);
2) Black w/Pink stripe (Reverse Input);
3) Black (Ground);
4) Light Green w/Yellow stripe (Power *Always Hot), and;
5) Red w/White stripe (Ignition *Hot only at start).

Which wire(s) should I cut in order to completely disable the auto lamp circuit WITHOUT affecting the operation of the manual dash switch circuit? One individual suggested that I cut the "thin black wire", and he probably means the ground wire, but I'd like some concurrence or additional expert advice on this. Thank you. Dan

treytor2 · December 2009

Open driver door no dome light. If I open the passenger front door the dome light comes on? Is this fuse related or sensor, and I do not see the sensor on opening the door?

jsbrunt · January 2010

I have the same problem on my '97 Explorer. There is a sensor on mine that is part of the door lartch. Mine is broken. I am looking for the part... And how to replace it...
There are instructions for a 2003 Explorer at http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2008/10/2003-ford-explorer-door-ajar-light.html but my sensor switch does not appear to be the same.

rstorey1 · January 2010

have a 2001 explorer and the fan will not run. I have changed the switch and checked the wires - all seem fine. Fan will go on occasionally and runs when it does but there is no particular process that makes this happen and it goes on rarely now.
Any ideas thanks

jsoms32 · January 2010

after unsoldering wire harnesses for 2 days and tracing wires i found out that there was a short in the harness to the transmission and a bad wire inside the trans. new transmission good to go.

billjoe · January 2010

I have a 2006 Exporer, automatic ac/heat controls. Today when I started the truck the fan went on and blew on high, even though the car was still cold. Pushing the 'off' or the 'auto' button does nothing, the fan continues to blow cold air full force even though the temp setting is at 70. I tried raising and lowering the temp setpoint but that did nothing. Is there a sensor or switch or something that needs to be replaced / reset ?

cupcake911 · January 2010

I have a 2002 ford explorer and when I hit any bumps the door locks go off and on and the interior light flashes....I just replaced the transmission in this vehicle, I can not afford much else. Please help.

lreuter · March 2010

Okay, not possessed, but it's acting on its own... The dealer thought it might be a ground fault in the driver's door harness, then said they'd figure out exactly where for a bushel of money.

We live with it, but has anybody seen some/all of these symptoms and offer a guess as to where to look for home repair?

* Press any button on the door entry code panel and the anti-theft/panic goes off.
* Driver door lock button works until you pull the key out then inop.
* Rear window defrost activates dome light and 'door ajar' fault message for (and defrosts).
* Radio plays until you remove key (used to play until door open).
* Cabin heat temperature controls don't seem responsive.

and maybe not related:

Since our last visit to a different dealer the transmission doesn't always engage in Drive. After a hard stop it also won't engage, or drops into gear suddenly with a jack rabbit start. Sometimes sitting at a light it 'thumps' the car. I thought someone had lightly rear-ended me, but nobody was behind.

mikehutch73 · March 2010

blowing the 50 amp fuse for the ignition switch/starter relay upon eevry turn of the key, i replaced the battery and the starter with new ones. i'm still blowing that same fuse! what else should i look at???

mikehutch · March 2010

should i check out the wire harness for a short that may cause the 50 amp fuse to blow upon evry attempt to start? installed new starter ,battery and fuse.

leopold1 · March 2010

Yes Mike you will need to check out the harness, because you do have a short. More than likely you either have a bare wire touching the frame, or you have broken wires in the harness somewhere touching each other. This can be done either with an ohm meter, or the old fashioned, and sometimes the best way, of simply inspecting each wire for damage. Remember if you are using an ohm meter that you must isolate the system and wires you are checking, or you can get false readings.
Best of luck

leopold1 · March 2010

Forgot something Mike. Sorry, but it is 0522 on a Sturday and my mind has not picked up speed yet. Make sure that you test any switches, or relays as you are going through the harness, because that may very well be where your problem lies.

budd00 · March 2010

I have a 2000 ford explorer that the batt. get drained very easily. I have to boost it every time i drive it, I've bought new alt. battery ten. pulley (incase the belt wasnt turning the alt. pulley properly) If I put a new battery in it it'll run til' that battery is drained then its back to square 1. I could boost it right now drive for a few miles and after that it might start 2 more times after that, then its back to needing a boost. Whats draing my battery?

PS. Everything else works fine. :confuse:

leopold1 · March 2010

mikehutch, you need to start at square one. Anytime you have an electrical problem, don't make it worse by randomly changing parts. All that does is confuse you and cost money. Start out by checking your battery with a load tester. Do not go to your local parts store and get them to do it. Remember, a good, knowledgeable mechanic does not work at the parts counter. Buy yourself a load tester and use it yourself. That will tell you if your batt. is any good and whether or not you are getting a charge from the alt. You must have at least 13.8 volts coming into your batt. to keep it charged and not more than 14.8 to 15 volts. DO NOT PULL THE POS. CABLE OFF WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING OR THE NEXT THING YOU WILL BE BUYING IS A COMPUTER! If your tester tells you that the batt. is good but the alt. is not putting out, check to make sure that you have batt. volts going to the alt. You must have that to excite the fields. If you do, then it is time to find out where your voltage is going to, or where it is dammed up,ie... a switch, relay,diode, or simply a bad or damaged wire. GOO LUCK!

Ford Explorer Electrical Problems

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