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Comments
You can always try to clean the throttle body and MAF sensor thoroughly (using the correct solvent).
A new actuator is very pricey. You don't want to be guessing on that part.
There is a procedure to re-synchronize the throttle-pedal to the throttle-plate. This procdure is called "throttle adaptation" by VW. Here is a synopsys of the "throttle adaptation" procedure from the Bently manual:
1) WITHOUT touching accelerator pedal, turn key to "run" (do not start engine)
2)wait several seconds for onbaord diagnostics to complete.
3) slowly press accelerator pedal to floor and HOLD for at least 5 seconds.
4) slowly relase accelerator pedal
5) turn key off
The above procedure also resets an automatic xmission to the default settings.
If the above does not help... you may wish to search the internet for "throttle adaptation" to learn more about it. Some folks have reported that they had to do other things (like disconect battery 1st, or leave key in "ON" position for 3 minutes before pressing pedal down.)
devan
Last Thursday on my way home from work the engine started running rough and losing power. I figured it was a coil again. The next day I swapped out each coil with a good one with no change. I then changed the plugs. It ran rougher. Then ran a little smoother. Now it is very rough. I had the codes scanned at Advance Auto Parts. I'm getting P0172 - System Too Rich (Bank 1) and all four cylinders are misfiring. They keep switching around so I know its not the ignition coils.
I have read that the catalytic converter can be damaged when driving with a bad coil. I think the cat is bad and have ordered a universal one online. I drilled holes in the old one today hoping it would improve engine power. That was dumb. Loud but no change. I can't drive it anymore until I fix it. I can't afford to take it to a mechanic.
Could the problem be something other than the cat? Would a bad O2 senser cause the engine to misfire. I also have the rotten egg (exhaust smell). What causes the system to be too rich? Thanks
MAF sensor
O2 sensor
leak in intake plumbing
trubocahrger not pushing enough air thru engine
(some others)
Try this, UNPLUG the electrical connector from the MAF and then start engine and drive for a couple days. (This will force the computer into "limp mode" and may turn on the CEL.) If it runs better, suspect that your MAF is sending bad signals to the computer and may be bad.
Many folks have reported that when MAF is bad, the engine will run BETTER with it disconnected thus forcing engine to run in "limp mode".
Dont forget that there are 2 types of O2 sensors. Some have a digital (on/off) type of output and other have an analog output. VW uses BOTH kinds of O2 sensors on some enginecodes.
If you REALLY want to test out the O2 sensors, you can collect data as you drive then graph the results on the screen when you get back home.
In the hands of a skilled user, the VagCom system can be used to efficently isolate almost any issue with your VW. I have diagnosed everything from bad MAF to burned out glowplugs and popped-off hoses. Even burned-out heated-review-mirrors can be located quickly. Faultcodes can be diagnosed and reset....etc etc.
You can even enable/disable any of the programmable options such as auto-door locks, beep when armed...etc.
Your problem could also be something in the fuel system too, always check the spark plugs gap too.
The P1542 Throttle actuator sensor,range or performance problem, P1545 Throttle valve actuator malfunction. are the clues.
EIther the potentiometer in the throttle-pedal assembly or the throttle-valve actuator itself is your problem.
If you are on a tight budget, any scrapyard should have both of these components.
Personally, I would remove and throroughly clean both of these components and then do another "Throttle adaptation" BEFORE spending any money.
Will let ya know how the cleaning goes.
The catalytic converter is part of the emmissions system and is thus covered by this federal law.
so... when we say "check into it"...we really mean READ YOUR FEDERAL EMMISSISSONS WARANTEE!!
If you continue to drive it, and the turbocharger decides to self-distruct... then pieces from it could get sucked into the engine thus damaging the engine again. (It is a visious circle)
Here are several online websites that specialize in Volkswagen parts.
http://www.worldimpex.com/
http://www.1stvwparts.com/
http://www.germanautoparts.com/
You don't need to know all that much to avoid problems like this. You really just need to follow the maintenance schedule. It is in the owners manual, if you don't have one you can also find the schedule on vw.com. That schedule would include replacing the timing belt, had you done that you'd have saved at least $2000.
Sounds like you need to step up the maintenance on this car. I hope you are using synthetic oil on that particular engine.
Given the 2 codes you have been seeing (P1542 and the P1545) If you have tried all the easy fixes by cleaning the throttle poteometer and the throttle-plate actuator.... Perhaps you might consider that one of these 2 components is truly defective.
BTW: Here are more details about the various "Adaptations" you can perform with VW
http://p086.ezboard.com/frevotechnikfrm13.showMessage?topicID=5.topic
Feb. 23, 2007
2010582
01 07 24, dated Feb. 23, 2007 supersedes Technical Bulletin Group 01 number 04-18 dated Aug. 26, 2004
Vehicle Information
Condition
DTC P0604 (16988), P0605 (16989), P0606 (16990) Stored in DTC Memory
Technical Background
The above DTCs may also be stored due to a low battery condition.
Production Solution
N/A information only
Service
^ Do not automatically replace the ECM for this condition. First, perform the following:
^ Verify that battery voltage and condition are OK (charge and load test as necessary).
If battery voltage is low:
^ Correct reason for low battery voltage
With battery fully charged:
^ Clear any stored DTC.
^ Perform throttle adaptation procedure (see Repair Group 24, ECM to throttle valve control module, adaptation.
^ Test drive vehicle for approximately one half hour.
If MIL does not illuminate and DTC does not return:
Low battery voltage has most likely caused the DTC to be stored.
^ Procedure is complete.
If MIL illuminates and DTC is stored again, perform the following:
^ Replace ECM (see appropriate Repair Group).
The main thing to remember is that a "troublecode" is just an indicator about a problem... NOT always the problem. Replacing parts is a last resort. (unless you are a paid mechanic and want to sell parts - LOL)
The car has serious lack of power - replaced spark plugs, wires, air and fuel filter cause it was time anyway - no help. Before going and replacing cat converter I decided to get the codes - engine light was blinking.
Checked trouble codes and got multiple misfire readings - 0300 / 0301-02-04
Any idea what to check next?
Thanks
This is easy to check. With engine idling, use spray-bottle of water to lightly spritz the ignition components and coil. If the engine stumbles at all, you have found your problem.
Also make CERTAIN that when you routed the ignition-wires that they NEVER touch each other nor any metal. (the wire-spreaders are there for a reason.)
Appreciate any guidance you can give, $700 is a big hit to the budget right now that I can't afford.
I have a 2000 Jetta 2.0L Automatic in Honolulu, HI. The odo reads 77k and I purchased the car at 60k.
1. I know that for this model year, VW recommended 40k between timing belt changes and dont have any records whether the previous owner did so.
My question is 'how much does it cost - including labor' and are there any pointers to any shops in Honolulu avoiding the delaership.
2. For the past couple of months, there has been a rattling sound coming from the silencer/muffler - almost like a couple of nuts are loose in the area. This usually occurs when stepping on the gas and is more pronounced during a cold start.
Does this call for a catalytic converter change? Any ideas on the cost (incl installation of this) would be very helpful.
3. In Honolulu - which is mostly stop-go traffic with verly little highway Is this what is expected?
Mahalo and Thanks in advance,
Asif
http://germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/Engine/290/6
The price for the kit w/o thermostat is $119. The price with the thermostat is $159 (I would get the kit with the thermostat). Prices do not include shipping. I would call or e-mail germanautoparts.com for exact shipping charges.
I've been using them for years (as a long time VW owner), and they're well known in VW enthusiast circles (known as the GAP). They usually ship your order the following day.
The normal timing belt change interval is 60,000 miles - due to the fact that the factory waterpump is made of plastic and won't last beyond 60,000 miles. The germanautoparts.com timing belt kits include the new and improved metal waterpump which will extend your timing belt change interval to 90,000 miles. The belts (timing belt and serpentine belt) are new and improved designs that will last 90,000 miles.
I performed a search for private VW mechanics in your area, and the following one has had good reviews:
Tai Vw & Audi
(808) 623-4282
651 Kilani Ave, Wahiawa, HI 96786
Cross Streets: Between Westervelt St and Mango St
2) That rattling sound is more than likely the lower heat shield on the catalytic converter. I would ask the mechanic on his opinion as to whether the heat shield is worth saving, removing or replacing.
3) Since you do a lot of stop and go driving, I would take the car on a good weekend highway run every once in a while. Short of that, given the added heat of stop-and-go driving, I would have the timing belt service done every 75,000 - 80,000 miles.
Hope this helps...
Mahalo...