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Here's a link for your alternator from germanautoparts.com (which I have purchased my parts from for years):
http://germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/EngineElectrical/6/5
To search for private VW mechanics in your area, I would google on the following:
private VW mechanics (enter your city, state here)
Hope this helps...
Couple of quick questions:
1. My research showed that for early Golf/Jetta 4 models, the timing belt interval was put at 40k which was enhanced to 120k from 2002 onwards (as far as I rememeber). I am still assuming that the previous owner made the first replacement since this is a critical part.
2. I did call up VolxGerman, which is a big shop in Honolulu and got a quote of $890 for timing belt + water pump. Is this figure in the ballpark? What should the approximate cost for the labor component in your opinion at an independant mechanic like Tai?
3. Does the abnormally low mileage/gal show something wrong with the engine or will a tune up take care of it.
2) If the $890 includes parts and labor, that's a good price - well below what the dealer would charge (if performed by the dealer, you are probably looking at $1100-$1200 easily).
3) If you purchased the parts yourself and had the mechanic perform the installation you are probably in the same $890 ballpark. The majority of the cost for the timing belt service is labor (anywhere between 4-6 hours).
Since you already have one quote of $890, I would get another quote from Tai VW and Audi, and go with the best quote. One thing I would ask (very important) is if the water pump is the OEM plastic one or the metal one (INSIST on the metal one - which should extend your timing belt change interval towards the 100,000 mile mark).
Good luck and let us know how you made out.
:shades:
Thanks for the advice. I havent seen any Timing belt service records for the car so am assuming that nothing was done at the 40,000 mile mark.
Talked to Thomas at TAI VW and got a quote of $495 for parts and labor combined for changing the timing belt, water pump, tensioner and coolant. This looks like a very competitive price so I guess I will make the 35 mile trek later in the week to get the service done by him.
I will let the forum know how TAI VW worked out once I have had the service done.
Thanks,
A
Do not forget that the evap system may click when it is performing one of the built-in diagnostics for OBDII. A slight vacuum is created in the airspace above the fuel and then sealed off.... a timer is then kicked off to make certain that the vacuum "holds". This test is mainly to detect a loose gascap or split hoses.
You may consider using a VAGCOM to monitor some key inputs as you are driving. I would expect that the graph would clearly show the conditions which are causing the stalling.
Did you try typing googling "federal emissions warranty"? I get 208,000 hits on that one. You should be able to get all the details you need.
DONT FORGET... Your "federal emissions warranty" may be different depending on the year of your vehicle. (3year/50Kmile, 8/80 , 10/100...etc)
I beleive your 2000 MY has the 10year/100,000 mile "federal emissions warranty"
http://www.vw.com/jetta/completespecs/en/us/#/show_all
One simple test might be to spray some starter fluid in the air intake. If the car roars to life for a few seconds, then yep you have a fuel problem. If it won't start even with starter fluid, you probably have an ignition issue, such as bad coil, etc.
If you'd rather take it to a shop, they can install a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and test for fuel pressure, and can test the injectors for a pulse with a NOID light and make a simple test for spark.
Sudden fuel pump failures are rather rare actually. They usually wheeze themselves to death. You should be able to hear the FP relay click when you turn the key to ON.
Relay location on the thirteen position auxiliary relay panel, above relay panel:
1 - Auxiliary Emergency Flasher Relay (404)
2 - Relay for Motor Remote Unlock Rear Lid (79)
3 - Starting Interlock Relay (53) (185) (465)
4 - Fog Light Relay (53)
5 - Control Module for Multi-function Steering Wheel (450)
6 - Control Module for Multi-function Steering Wheel (450)
7 - Daytime Running Lights Change-over Relay (173), from April 1999
8 - Daytime Running Lights Change-over Relay (173), through March 1999
9 - Dual Horn Auxiliary Relay (53)
10 - Glow Plug Relay (180)
10 - Warning Lamp Auxiliary Relay (200)
11 - Park/Neutral Position (PNP) Relay (175)
12 - Power Supply (Terminal 30, B+) Relay (109)
Relay Panel:
1 - Dual Horn Relay (53)
2 - Load Reduction Relay (18) (100)
4 - Fuel Pump (FP) Relay (409)
V - Wiper/Washer Intermittent Relay (192) (377) (389)
VI - Wiper/Washer Intermittent Relay (192) (377) (389)
NOTE Number in parentheses ( ) indicates production control number stamped on relay housing.
Also, taken to mechanic and told 20W-50 synthetic should make ticking go away. After 4 days it is louder. It is in the freezing temps here. Should I really be running this weight on this engine?
wondering if you can help me out, ill try to make this as short as possible
I've got a 1999.5 Jetta, Auto, with 199,xxx km on it, a few months ago i noticed a "screeching/rattle" noise coming from underneath the car, it is noticeable after the car has been running for more then a few minutes or has had a good run on the highway
it does it when i have the car in Drive, and foot on the brake, i can hear this noise coming from underneath the car, closest to the front, i'd say it was coming from where the downpipe/cat is, also, ive put the Ebrake on with wheels chocked and got down beside it and can hear the noise, it goes away slightly when i put it in park/neutral, i pop the hood but dont hear anything in the engine bay
anyways, i went to the mechanic and asked if it was the Cat (i had a similar noise about a year ago and had VW replace it under the warranty and didnt really notice it anymore, probley cause it was winter time i.e windows up all the time) he told me that he suspected that it was the heat shield on the cat.......so i cut it off (my warranty was up anyways)
noise was still there
i go to a muffler shop and they said that it was the bracket where the resonator is, the exhaust was vibrating and going to the front of the car where the flex pipe is hence it sounds like screeching......so had that replaced
noise is still there
this noise is driving me nuts, simply because i cant figure it out, i know its not my serpentine belt or my tensioner, i had my timing belt and water pump done not too long ago because of another noise, so i dont think its that
has anyone had this problem or now what this problem is? i dont want to just start throwing money at in hopes it will stop, i'm just concerned its going to become something worse....
any ideas?
thanks in advance
Any ideas? Help this is driving me crazy. I know it isn't me or my driving habits as it only happens when engine is warm. Never when it is cold.
HELP
also my engine light has been on for a year, dealer has a code for coolent problem
but can't fix?
Thank you
You need to get the CEL fixed... then, if problems still exist, move forward from there.
BTW: You say you "did a tuneup"... I am curious... just exactly what did you do? (There has not been any such thing as a "tuneup" since electronic-ignition was invented.)
Only happens when engine is warm - cold starts the 'off the line' are smooth and with out any lurches (my definition is like a manual transmission with a new driver)-
but as soon as the engine does engage it is smooth from there on up to speed.
Only started to happen after my 15K check/oil change - please help! thx
GLI or Wolfsburg?
Direct Shift Gearbox I think is what DSG means. They brag that its the fastest shifting trans.
I noticed it acting wierd since I started taking the back road home, not all the time, but sometimes it does.
Think its used to me driving on the highway with the cruise set. Maybe it will get better the more it gets used to the back road.
I want nothing to do with the road construction on the highway coming home.......the usual morons and semis forced into one lane..........I know that isnt a pretty sight!!
Have you tried sport mode and launch control?
All props to Burnsville Volkswagon in Burnsville MN. The counter staff, the service staff were exceptional - Hope this will rectify the problem once and for all.
Thanks to cyperland for the support! Will keep you all posted
Checked and was told 5th cylinder is mis-fired. meaning normal cylinders should have 190lbs pressure, but mine 5th only has 70 lbs pressure. was told as a huge problem and it will cost a lot to fix it!!
what should i do then?! the light was on actually one month a ago and it can drive Ok even long travel~~~
Anyone has any idea?
My suggestion is that you get a "second opionion". Ask somone else to perform both a "compression test" and a "leakdown test".
If the same results come back... I would personally consider NOT fixing the engine.... continue to change the oil and drive it.
BTW: I am not convinced that low compression in one cylinder would make the CEL (Check Engine Light) come on. That may be another issue altogether.
the check result is : cylinder #5 has only 90 lbs. but the normal cylinders have 170 lbs. I think there is a big difference! So you think if I go to another shop and have the engine checked and get the same test results, we can still drive this car for a while? meaning the car is still drivable?will not damage the whole engine eventually?
what kind of results that might be got from a leak down test?
Based on that diagnosis, continued driving may, or may not cause further damage.
Low compression could be caused by several factors including
*) blown head gasket
*) carbon deposits built up on valves
*) Broken valves
*) broken piston ring
*) heavilly scored cylinder wall
*)..others
Virtually all of the "fixes" for these things requires tearing engine apart which is labor-intensive and often costly.
To answer your question about a "leakdown test". A "leakdown test" is essentually using a hand-pump to pressureize the cooling-system to normal operating pressure (using a pressure-meter)... then time how long the pressure bleeds off by itself. If the pressure bleeds off too quickly, this often means that the head-gasket is leaking coolant INTERNALLY into one or more of the cylinders. This is somtimes caused by a warped head.
If head gasket is internally leaking coolant extensivly.... engine may be difficult to start when cold and blow steam out exhaust when 1st started.
BTW: A warped head is often the result of OVERHEATING the engine at some point.... but there are other reasons this may happen too.
the only thing i did is before i drop my car to the shop and have it checked, i changed all the spark plug and add fuel injector cleaner. but the light was still on. so i went to check and was told that one of the cylinder the pressure is only 70lbs but should be 190 lbs. I was planning to have the car check again so i still drive it to work and yesterday the engine light is off.. I have no idea what happened.
is it sth good? or very weird?
thanks guys!
The new sparkplugs and injector-cleaner may likely have have resolved the problem. (or made it go away for awhile)
A CEL will go out by itself if the detected fault is not sensed within 'x' number of "trips"
"x" is oftnen defined as "50"... but may vary based on the type of failure detected.
A "trip" is defined as starting engine cold and driving until it has warmed up.
Perhaps you hit the magic "50 trips" and the CEL went out.
(Official documentation for all of this is available if you want details)
Many autoparts stores (Autozone...etc) will "read the codes" for free.
Once you know wich "code" threw the CEL.... let us know what it is.
BTW: An inline 4-cylinder engine has only 1 "bank" of cylinders. A "V" engine would have 2 'banks" of cylinders. The Volkswagen W8 engine has 4 "banks" of cylinders.