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1) Ignition system (sparkplug fireing issue)
2)fuel system (injectors)
I would bet that your ignition system is the culprit. I would start with new spark plugs/wires. (if you have the 2.0 engine)
If you have another engine, there may not be sparkplug wires on it.
I've replaced the headlight switch on the dashboard, tested the light bulbs and fuses and run conductivity on all the wires going from the light bulb socket. Any body else had this problem? What did you find?
The left headlight is near the battery, but the seals on the box around the left headlight bulb seem OK.
THANKS!!!
Whit Gallman
Also, I have seen headlight bulbs act funky like you describe. Try SWAPPING the bulbs from side-to-side and see if problm moves. (this will rule out the bulb as the culprit)
If that does not help... you may have to troubleshoot WHILE THE PROBLEM IS HAPPENING to isolate the failing component.
Car started to sound like it had a bad muffler.
Two weeks ago check engine light came on and flashed. Garage stated wires were bad and plugs fouled so I had them replaced. They recommended the ignition coil as well but at $400 for just the part I pasted. Car ran fine.
2 days later the check engine light came on again. I replaced the ignition coil myself. Easy repair. Put the plug wires back as they came out, number 1 in A 2 in B 3 in C 4 in D.
Car seemed to be running fine, expected the check engine light to reset after 100 miles and it did not. Still makes that sound if you hit the gas when it is in neutral like the exhaust has a chest cold (only way I can think of describing it)
There was a recall on the catalytic converter and was replaced at 85K. Took the car to auto zone and they said the code was for a bad ignition coil still. Unless the garage put the wires back in coil in the wrong, order I am out of ideas. I have the single ignition coil unit not four separate ones like on a V6.
Out of ideas...O2 Sensors maybe? I did recently change my brand oil of oil from Mobile 1 Full Syn to Castrol Edge Full Syn. Probably grasping at straws at this point
I am not sure there is a code that says "Bad ignition coil".... It sure looks to me that all of these folks are mis-interpeting what the code is telling them.... As witnessed by the fact that none of them have successfully diagnosed the problem yet.
You did a great job of describing the problem and the steps you have taken thus far... perhaps if you tell us the SPECIFIC code, we may be able to help troubleshoot.
The MAF (MassAirFlow) sensor on your engine may be going bad. An easy way to check the MAF sensor is to pop the electrical connector from it and let it dangle. (yes - this WILL cause the CEL to light up) Then start engine and drive for a few days. If things are better, then suspect the MAF is bad.
Also, check the color of your ECT (Engine Coolant Tempararure) sensor. If it is not GREEN, replace it. (about $15 and the Oring) The ECT of that vintage are KNOWN to go bad and VW came out with a better design which is colored GREEN so it is easy to tell if you have the newer one installed.
You cannot tell if the ECT is bad by looking at the guage on the dash because the ECT has 2 sensors within in.... 1 for the dashboard and the other for the EngineComputer. If the computer "thinks" that the engine is always cold, your engine may run like cr@p.
Also, you should make certain that the engine is MECHANICALY sound. A compression-test may be a good way to validate that you do not have troubles with valves. (which could also cause this problem)
The 2.0 engine that we are talking about here DOES NOT have COP ignition-units.
If there is something "pending" which you are refering to besides the COP units... please append some reference URLS that support that statement. I would be very interested to review those documents because both of my daughters have VWs of that vintage with 2.0L engines.
There is a reason that COP units are considerd high-tech.... each indivudual ignition-unit is plugged DIRECTLY into the top of the sparkplug. This means the COP unit must endure extremely high heat from the cylinder head. Heat and electronics do not mix well. (The heat always wins in the end)
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm
My personal favorite is ALLDATA... but you may need to be a 'subscriber' to get all the details of each recall/TSB
http://www.alldatadiy.com/TSB/?loc=TSB
PO351, PO352,PO353,PO354 -I believe corresponds to each of the connections to igintion coil, slots A-D.
Presently slot A has plug 1, B -2, C-3, D-4
All wires and plugs are new
The last code is PO302 which is misfire cylinder 2
I know I do not have the green ECT so will grab one. The needle sits at 0 for as long as I can recall. Years. Was told that is just how they are. I will also unhook the MAF as well
BTW: I just installed a new (green) ECT (Engine Coolant Temparature) sensor in my wifes Jetta yesterday. Then I hooked up my laptop computer and reset all the codes. So far, the light on the dashboard has NOT come back on and the temparture guage has been working as expected.
Some of the cheap rebuilt "aftermarket" parts will not perform nor last nearly as long as real VW components.
If you are CERTAIN that the new axles were properly installed and are original GERMAN components... then I am sorry to tell you that what you describe may be INSIDE the transmission.
can anyone assist me on how to determine whether the 99 jetta engine is aba or aeg
thanks
In addition, an adhesive label on the drive belt cover lists the engine code and engine number.
The engine code is also listed on the vehicle identification sticker in the luggage compartment.
Anyway, how does one release the fuel line connections? There are two very small holes on the connector - is there a special tool that goes in there or does it use the knid that goes in via the end of the line and spreads out the clip?
In either case, is it a sized tool only for the German cars, or a standardized size.
I've poked, probed and chanted...have yet to call a voodoo doctor or Mr. Spock to put the Vulcan pinch on it.
Thanks in advance.
You can also check for fuel in the fuel rail by depressing the little Schrader valve under the hood (wear safety glasses to protect your eyes).
You should be able to hear the fuel-pump run for about 3 seconds if you turn the key to "ON" without cranking the engine. (Some older VWs even pre-pressurized the fuel-system when you opened the drivers door... I know my daughters Gulf did that)
Also check fuel-pump fuse and relay.
Careful scrutiny and voodoo (with chanting) revealed that the outermost portion of the clip, directly across from the two pin holes was indeed a small button (raised about 1 mm high) which relased the grip on the fitting. An interior panel tool worked well to remove the line.
After a voltage test on the wiring on the connector to the fuel pump (the two outermost wires) revealed that the voltage was getting to the connector.
The pump did not hum, so I have taken it out, and then connected it directly to the battery, with the wires attached to the pump itself.
Chanting and more voodoo did not bring it back to life.
Thus, a new fuel pum, with gauge float and rheostat has been ordered and should arrive in a day or so.
I will certainly post if this was indeed the culprit when it it returned to life, as I hate diagnostic threads without conclusions and eventual success.
Thanks.
Of course, I ended up getting the wrong size off of an online order, so I disconnected the float and wiring from the new unit as well as the fuel lines and connected them to the old top flange.
Cost of new pump was $80 on line, much better than via a parts house around here where pirices ranged from $218 - $308.
Reinstalled it and away we went (of course I tested it for hum prior to putting it in the tank - older unit had no hum at all, see earlier post).
Car has much better acceleration now than it has had for some time, leading me to believe that the fuel flow volume was down or just that the pressure was not coming from the pump as it should have been.
For those that wish to test the unit in the car also - the outermost wires on the connection plug are the ones that power the fuel pump. You can check for current with the key on at that point (Seeing if the relay is still supplying power.)
I would also guess that one could bypass the relay in order to run the pump in an emergency situation if the relay was bad.
I put my findings out here so hopefully they will aid someone else in the future.
JETTA PCV
When you loosen the oil-fill cap, you are simply allowing some of the excess pressure to escape so the oil-separator does not have to work so hard.
Unfortunately, there may not be any way you can replace external parts to fix the problem you describe.
Your description sure sounds as if you have a SERIOUS mechanical problem with your engine. There is sooooo much blowby past the piston-rings, the oil-separator cannot keep up with the amount of airflow past it.
The blinking oil-lite is another indicator that the engine is in SERIOUS trouble. This means that the oil-pump cannot build up enough pressure to protect the engine.