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Update: My salesperson and I drove the car together. We couldn't get it to stall during the test. (Of course) But neither were we really able to duplicate the traffic conditions in which the car tends to stall.
My theory: I am 5'1 and under 110 lbs. (A smaller than average person.) I don't think my foot weighs enough to naturally engage the accelerator. Usually when I put my foot on an accelerator, the accelerator engages due to the weight of my foot alone. Not in this car. In this car I have to apply pressure at all times. This means that instead of easing up on the accelerator when switching from 3rd gear to 2nd and back again, I have to keep applying pressure in order to keep the engine stable. It is counter intuitive, uncomfortable and yes, my ankle gets tired.
I ran my theory by my salesperson but he seems to have abandoned me. Thanks VW!
The "engine oil presure" warning sign came up first and beeped. Didn't pay attention Then the engine just stalled.
I was able to start it a few time but the idling is NOT stable and the engine died on itself again and again.
I pulled over and started it again but it stopped on itself after 30 seconds. A burning/strong smell coming out of the hood(?). Some liquid on the floor under the engine but it is NOT motor oil (water?).
Tried to start it again but no cranking sound. Just a wierd/strange sound under the hood when I turned the ignition. Did I break anything major?
What do you think the problem is? Coil (I heard a wierd noise coming from the coil under the hood)? Electrical wires?
I was planning to sell the car but now I cannot start it. What're my options? Repair it and sell it? Trade-in when buying my next car? It has 118K and worth $2500-2700 if it's running.
BTW, the "check engine" has been on for half a year. Had it reset but it came back on again.
Thanks/Richard
Some people use a "windex" bottle filled with water to spritz things under the hood while engine is idling. This often can pinpoint the problem.
As for your CEL being on for half year... you should consider having thet looked at and corrected. (if you are NOT selling the car)
The sound is brief. It sounds like the engine was trying to start but it's just one extended cranking sound (the sound came from where the coil is under the hood - just in the back the dashboard).
I dared not keeping turning the key. Was the coil burnt? Someone else on VWvortex forum suggested that I might have seized the engine and the car is NOT worth repairing.
On the other hand, another gentleman said there might be a crack on the coil and it should be replaced.
I don't really want to spend a lot of money repairing the car because I plan to sell it soon before the next inspection (mid-April).
Shall I have a mechanic to take a loot first and diagnoise the problem before I have my Jetta towed to their shop?
What's the best approach for me at this point? The engine cannot be started. The car is parked in the parking lot behind my apt. Thanks.
There may not be a vehicle on the planet that can go 120,000 miles without some kind of repairs. (I had a Honda Civic that needed the HEAD GASKET replaced 2 times before 100,000 miles... now that is a serious failure.)
For me, It really comes down to how much I am spending monthly to keep a vehicle on the road. If the repairs are costing more than payments on a new car, then it is time to consider moving on.
Personally, I would have FIXED the coil-pack or replaced it myself. It is a simple 5 minute task.
I do not work for VW ... but have owned many vehicles over the years and have concluded that VW is one of the best available. NONE of the Asian carmakers have 12-year/ unlimited milage corrosion warantee. (what use is a car the rusts into oblivian before it wears out?)
Many repair shops charge WAYYY too much for mundane tasks and most folks that visit Edmunds APPRECEATE my assistance in not having to pay for trivial things they can do themselves.
YES - it is pretty easy to R&R a coilpack in about 5-10 minutes... if one knows which end of a screwdriver to hold. (perhaps easier than hanging a picture on the wall!)
If you do not want advice, then why are you here? This is a forum for folks that WANT to be helped. Complainers need not apply. 8-)
BTW: Any automobile with that many miles on it could be needing those kind of items repaired. You are lucky it is a VW... or you would have been looking for another car years ago. It seems that you paied too much for the repairs and are now trying to blame VW and me.
It still perplexes me that you can "Love the car"... but in the same sentence suggest you may never own another one.
Replacing a coil-pack in five minutes might be a snap for some and might scare others to death. No big deal either way. We all have talents and skills in some areas but not in others.
She seems to be saying that even though she loves the car but maybe won't own another because of the issues she has described. They sound like a lot to deal with and certainly not inexpensive. But 125,000 miles is a lot on the clock, no question.
If both of you could lighten up a bit, maybe she will clarify what she's saying and how we can help. Then we can move on and get back to business here.
I am more accustomed the literally 1000s of folks that have THANKED me over the years for providing assistance here in Edmunds.
In this case, I explained how the requestor may be able to save some money. If somone does not have the skills to do the task, then the only other alternitive may be to have a TRUSTED mechanic do the work.
Blaming the manufacturer of the vehicle because a mechanic charges too much is simply unfair to the folks that make the car. If the car has some kind of intrinsic design defect, we may entertan blaming the manufacturer. (Even under such conditions, we must consider the federal laws which mandate some goofy designs and finnicky problems... such as plugging intake manifolds due to cooled EGR.)
Any vehicle with over 100,000 miles on it does not owe you ANYTHING... it has served it useful life and any more miles we get out if it is a bonus. Have we forgotten the days not long ago when a car was worn-out and ready for the scrap heap at 60,000 miles?
As I said before, the costs of repair on a vehicle with more than 100,000 miles on the odemeter REALLY needs to be amortorized over the time the repair lasts (and any other failures that occour.)
For example, if a car with 125,000 miles costs $1,700 to fix... but lasts another 2 years, that means it only cost $850 per year or about $71 per month... That is PRETTY CHEEP transportation in my book. Where can I buy another car with payments of $71 a month?
And - more to the point... why would I even consider NOT BUYING ANOTHER car that provided me with such inexpensive transprotation?
Also, did it go away or is it now always happening?
Thanks
Ignitor: Individual ignition coil - one on each sparkplug.
If you did not take your car in when you got the recall notice for the ignitors, you could try to get it covered now. (good luck)
such as, brands or exact models
dont care how much it costs either
Even if you could add a turbocharger to the 2.0, the design of the engine (compression ratio) is too high to allow for much boost. Turbocharged engines are DESIGNED with a low compression-ratio to allow for more boost without self-destructing.
I guess somone could doctor up a VR6 engine cover to fit on a different engine... but why would anyone do that??
To specifically answer your question... we cannot see what is under that cover so there is NO WAY to be certain.
Oh, the ignition coils! These had a high failure rate and I THINK your car might still be covered under some extended warranty situation? Is that right or is that all over and done with according to VW?
i have a strange noise in engine (not to disturbing)
an another one .. under the hood or under the car.. or on of the tires .. is making a rithmical noise .. when i hit the brakes or drive with 30 miles on hour , the car vibrates you can feel that on the brake pedal
i have a strange noise in engine (not to disturbing)
an another one .. under the hood or under the car.. or on of the tires .. is making a rithmical noise .. when i hit the brakes or drive with 30 miles on hour , the car vibrates you can feel that on the brake pedal
what shoul i do.. o was to the delers they gave me need to replace timing chains , another one told me that is not sure is that problem .
what should i do..
what is the correct price for change that stuff?
and also hom much theu should charge for an elctrical fan ?
David
http://www.lemonlaw.com/volkswagen-problems.html
So did you check with the VW dealer?
thanks again for all your help.
Thanks
LaDona
This might help fill you in on the problem:
http://www.signonsandiego.com/uniontrib/20040904/news_lz1d4sludge.html
Thank the stars for people like you!
It is unfortunate that the salesman do not tell prospective buyers that a TURBOCHARGED engine needs to be fed hi-test fuel and synthetic oil.... Thats the entry cost of having a turbocharged engine!
If anyone else reading this owns ANY car and is not REGISTERD with the manufacturer... now is a GREAT time to fill out the postcard in the back of the owners-manual and send it in.
Or, you can visit the Federal NHTSA website and look up your car.
You need to go to an expert body shop, not a mechanic, before you write the car off.
Go to Edmunds.com, click on "used cars", then on "appraise" and see what your car is actually worth--if you can fix it for 1/2 that value, it might be worth doing, if the car has otherwise been good and you like it.
Visiting Host
Tell me though, during the entire year of 2006, what was that car's average MPG? (calculated by dividing total 2006 miles by total 2006 gallons burned)
If her car is a diesel and the driving consists of mostly highway driving, then it is quite possible...