Dealer negotiations have resulted in an all-in price of $27,051 for this (automatic trans.) car. Price includes Tax@5%, Title, Destination and Delivery, and $750 rebate). Good price?
Greetings, I have a basic 1999 1/2 ton dodge. the 16 inch tires look like toys on the 8 foot bed, so I found locally, a set of michelins in a stock 2003 Ram 17" alloy. On the front, the lugs lined up, but the grease caps pushed the center cap away. At 40 miles an hour, I thought the truck was going to come apart, and despite its age, it only has 22,000 miles on it. Am I missing a required spacer, or are the newer lugnuts different? Please let me know if you do. The 17s are much nicer to look at, but not if it kills me. Brian :sick:
This is regarding a new 4Runner: I would like an opinion on whether it makes more financial sense to buy a 2006 at 1.9% interest rate or a 2007 at 4.9%. I dislike the idea of paying more interest and the price would certainly be better on a new 2006 but maybe I should just get the newest model???
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
Check out the Toyota 4Runner: Prices Paid & Buying Experience discussion too. You can also search for "demo" with the Advanced Search tool for posts like this one ($1 a mile deduction on a demo Land Rover):
My mom has a car she needs to get rid of... the problem is that the alignment is so out of wack that she's been told by a mechanic it cannot be fixed. The car doesn't feel safe when driving at high speeds, especially in wet weather. What's a good forum to get information on what we can do with this car (besides donating it). Thanks!
My husband recently hit a deer with his 2004 corolla. He has had the car a little over a year. We have been given an estimate by the body shop that the car is about 75% of a total loss with total damage around $7500-$8000. Our insurance company wants to repair the car vs. replace it. I have huge concerns about getting a car back with that much damage especially when it comes to trading it in later on and it will have a salvaged title. Any suggestions on how to fight the insurance company on this one?
First time out here so please bear with me. I have leased twice before but after reading the posts out here I realize how very little I know about leasing. Normally I just keep working the salesperson until I get the car into the price range (monthly payment) I want and then sign for the car. Now I am not sure if this is the right approach after reading through this site.
Is there a set equation you can use to tell if you are actually getting a good deal when leasing? I have been offered a payment of $336 per month for an the car listed in my header, with an MSRP of $23585 for an 07 Altima with ABS, splash guards, and convenience plus package. The MSRP is the price he is working off of.
I have a Honda lease from the same dealership with $1600 left on the lease. Is that monthly payment a good deal or should I wait until they start putting out incentive programs after the 1st of the year? I thought the $336 was not a bad lease price for 36 months at 15k miles per year. Now I am not so sure. Is this good deal or is there a better way to handle a lease. I am confused as hell after reading this site. Thank you.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
I have a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee that has a pop in the front end, each time you turn to the left. So far, no one can find the source of the noise. Has anyone else ever experienced this? It sounds like a gun it is so loud.
I have a 2002 Nissan Sentra.....yesterday I couldn't start the car....it cranked but just wouldn't turn all the way over...I got some Starter Spray and sprayed it into the intake and still no start......I jumped the car off my wife's battery and no luck.....out of desperation I pressed the accelerator all the way to the floor and then the car started.........I put some injector cleaner into the tank and drove around for a while and it started up again OK.....I'm wondering what the problem could be???!!
I had a terrible experience with the Arrow Hyundai dealership when I went in to lease a Sonata '07. The Sales team there gave me a price for a lease and trade value for my 2 year old Honda. When everything was agreed and was about to sign up, they started telling a different deal which was $700 off, saying that my credit score is less. I left the deal and checked my credit score and find that to be Good as per experian. They called the next day and said they will bring the diff down from 700 to 300. After waiting for a couple of days I agreed and went in. Again at the time of signing, they had added an additional installment as 'Disposition Fee'. When I asked, why I was not told abt this, they said this is normal and in 90% they dont even tell the buyer abt this. everyone agrees etc. This is absolute cheating. They get a guy to the last moments of deal and then disclose additional amounts. I am not sure how they are #1 dealers for Hyundai in WI. To me they are absolute crooks. I would surely advice people to be careful and extra diligent while dealing with Arrow Hyundai at Hwy 100 Milwaukee, WI. thanks for reading.
I just changed my plugs and wires 3 days ago in my 95 Mitsubishi Montero. It ran great until today when i was driving to work and they started misfiring again, anybody know why they would go bad in a few days like that?
I own a 2001 PT Cruiser. I bought it new...in fact I ordered it after seeing it at the carshow!! Anyway...it has been a GREAT family car and has 115K miles without any problems until now....It however has developed a problem that so far has not been solved. One day this summer at a traffic light it cut out and wouldn't restart. It acted and sounded like it was out of gas, but wasn't. I called to get it towed. A few hours later when my mechanic (of many years through many cars) went to try the car...it started without any problem. He drove it for alittle while to replicate the problem and OF COURSE it didn't happen!! Chalked it up to a wierd thing, no water or problem with the fuel line....
4 months later when sitting at another light, with no occurances in between or other strange things....the samething happened. I waited a few hours and went back to my car, it started again, after failing previously. I brought it over to my mechanic and left it for several days, he ran tests on all the systems, I THINK he checked the O2 sensor, (maybe not if there is a kink) etc...and found NOTHING!!!!!! Well today WHILE DRIVING, after pulling away from a light, it cut out..I felt something first this time...couldnt get it started again...samething won't crank...sounds like its out of gas. We went back a couple of hours later and it did not start this time....It's been towed AGAIn...any thoughts????
What tidester was suggesting was that you repost in a PT Cruiser related discussion. That's how you'll reach the folks who are knowledgeable about your car. Why don't you go to the main PT Cruiser group and have a look at all of the topics there. Then you can pick one that looks appropriate and, if you want, copy and paste your original post. Good luck - hope we can help.
I have a question about a BWM 745Li. I have a little car light that comes on in the IDrive box. The car seems to be driving find, but this light is always on. Do I need to have a dealer like at it or is it something that I can fix?
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
I will be turning in my current vehicle- 2003 Honda Pilot in March (lease). I plan to purchase my next vehicle. I would prefer to spend about $22,000 USD or less. I have a husband, 12y.o., and a 4 y.o. to haul around. I would like to have a vehicle that will seat at least 5 preferably 6 people, with side curtain airbags, automatic, and traction/stability control. It has to be well built as I will probably give it to my 12 y.o. eventually to drive to college. I like leather but can live without it if necessary. I am out of my mind aren't I? LOL But seriously, is there anything out there that you would recommend?
For new cars, you can Browse by Price Range. Then you can go to the make/model discussions using the Browse By Vehicle link on the left to skim the posts, ask questions, and narrow your choices down.
I have a 1991 F250 7.3L Diesel that has decided to stop starting... hopefully, someone here can make some suggestions. When I try to start the truck, the solenoid clicks once and then everything electrical dies. I had the starter bench tested at AutoZone and they say that it is fine, as are the batteries (tested also). I connect the two battery wires to the solenoid and leave it hanging rather than connecting it the fly wheel... one solenoid click and nothing. I replaced the stupid "Ford" solenoid on the fender of the truck (I don't know why Ford insists on two solenoids but that can be for another post) - one click solenoid and nothing. I took a jumper cable and went between the + post of one battery and the corresponding post on the starter's solenoid... this time I get one solenoid click, a few (5-6) cranks and then nothing. The wire on the jumper cable heats up and starts melting the plastic sheath (I think if it was heavy enough gauge that jumping the battery to the solenoid would work). My dad tells me to check all the cable connections (+/- wires)... I checked and cleaned all the (+) connections with a wire wheel on a grinder or sandpaper so they are all clean (bare metal). I didn't check or clean the engine or frame grounds because I think that if I had a ground issue, my battery to starter solenoid jumping would produce the same results as without the jumping... I did nothing to the ground when I run the jumper cable. My next option is to replace the battery cables... I call Ford and they want $300 for the cables (are you f-ing kidding me? I understand copper is expensive but how does the dealership justify that price?), AutoZone wants $110... note about the cable; the (-) cables are pretty standard, the (+) cable is connected to the left-hand battery, runs to the right-hand battery, and then splits. From here, one wire (16 gauge) goes to the "Ford" fender solenoid and then goes to the starter solenoid; the other wire (4 gauge) goes to another post on the starter solenoid. I am going to wait until Tuesday to see how much a battery shop can make the cable for me, but before I do that, am I missing something that I can check or change? Could my jumper between the (+) on one terminal to the starter solenoid really work if I had a ground issue? Again, when I do this, all the battery wires are connected as they would be from the dealership. I generally drive the truck to tow my boat only; this all happened when I took it for a drive (ran about 20 min) and then turned it off outside of a store... hasn't started since.
I bought a new car today. During the vehicle delivery process, I have asked the dealer about the sticker paper with the car. He said he will find it for me and asked me to sign all the paperwork. At last, he said he cannot fine the MSRP sticker paper with the car. I want to know if this paper is part of the legal document and does it matter if it is lost?
trying to find exactly where the horn relay is situated ive been told by the battery and also in the relay and fuse box under the hood. but i need to know where. anyone got a clue cause the owners manual only shows the 15amp fuse for it. not the relay itself.
I have a 2003 Grand Caravan, my daughter has a 2001. About 2 months ago, within a week of each other, our Electric windows stopped working. After about a week or so they started working again. I suspected it was a grounding problem, but can't find any manuals that will help me. They work fine now, but I am afraid of intermittant problems. Any suggestions?
Hi all... I have a 97 MPV that til now has been worry free. I recently noticed a marked deop in temp from my heater. Decided it was time for a flush maybe. Flushed the system as instrucred in my shop manual. Refilled the system, now i have plenty of airflow, but no heat. I read in my shop manual that there is circulation to the heater all the time unless the a/c is on or the entire system is off. Is there an electrically controlled valve that I am unaware of? If so, where is it? I checked the heather lines when the engine was up to temp, in and out are both hot. I also removed the trim and checked operation of the air doors...they seem to be working ok. Any ideas?
I have just been given a CD Changer/MP3 taken from a 2005 3 Series. I own a 2003 model of 320D. The back of the Changer has a connection for a 4x square type and 2 round pin type. My car is prewired to accept a CD Changer/Mp3 but the leads connectors are the 4 & 6 pin square type.
Where can I find an adapter/connector lead to fit this to my car. Or is that this changer cannot be installed in 2003 models?
my 1996 ford dosen't want to go in reverse. It feels like my brakes are locked up. I have to smoke the tires to make it go. Does any one know what is wrong....Help
I AM TRYING TO REPLACE THE AIR FILTER ON MY 2003 BRAVADA, IT'S PROVING TO BE A CHALLENGE. I REMOVED THE 2 VISIABLE SCREWS BUT CANT GET THE AIR FILTER COVER OPEN FAR ENOUGH TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THAT DIRTY FILTER! ARE THERE MORE SCREWS ? WHERE? SHOULD THE COVER SLIDE OUT? HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS
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I have a basic 1999 1/2 ton dodge. the 16 inch tires look like toys on the 8 foot bed, so I found locally, a set of michelins in a stock 2003 Ram 17" alloy. On the front, the lugs lined up, but the grease caps pushed the center cap away. At 40 miles an hour, I thought the truck was going to come apart, and despite its age, it only has 22,000 miles on it. Am I missing a required spacer, or are the newer lugnuts different? Please let me know if you do. The 17s are much nicer to look at, but not if it kills me. Brian :sick:
tidester, host
I would like an opinion on whether it makes more financial sense to buy a 2006 at 1.9% interest rate or a 2007 at 4.9%. I dislike the idea of paying more interest and the price would certainly be better on a new 2006 but maybe I should just get the newest model???
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
JBL Synthesis Am/Fm 6-Disc In-Dash Cd
side-curtain airbags
extra mile option B
I can look on edmunds for the price without it being a demo with 4,500 miles but I don't know how to figure it with the miles.
british_rover, "Questions About Test Driving" #427, 22 Dec 2006 2:41 pm
tidester, host
Is there a set equation you can use to tell if you are actually getting a good deal when leasing? I have been offered a payment of $336 per month for an the car listed in my header, with an MSRP of $23585 for an 07 Altima with ABS, splash guards, and convenience plus package. The MSRP is the price he is working off of.
I have a Honda lease from the same dealership with $1600 left on the lease. Is that monthly payment a good deal or should I wait until they start putting out incentive programs after the 1st of the year? I thought the $336 was not a bad lease price for 36 months at 15k miles per year. Now I am not so sure. Is this good deal or is there a better way to handle a lease. I am confused as hell after reading this site. Thank you.
Mark
How to calculate monthly lease payments
Nissan Altima: Lease Questions
General questions about leasing vehicles
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
Looks like I got a bad deal for BMW 2007 X3, which is $1300 off of MSRP ($42620).
I already put $1000 down.
What could i do next to save more before finalizing the deal?
Any sugestion would be appreciated very much!
Thanks.
thanks for reading.
One day this summer at a traffic light it cut out and wouldn't restart. It acted and sounded like it was out of gas, but wasn't. I called to get it towed. A few hours later when my mechanic (of many years through many cars) went to try the car...it started without any problem. He drove it for alittle while to replicate the problem and OF COURSE it didn't happen!! Chalked it up to a wierd thing, no water or problem with the fuel line....
4 months later when sitting at another light, with no occurances in between or other strange things....the samething happened. I waited a few hours and went back to my car, it started again, after failing previously. I brought it over to my mechanic and left it for several days, he ran tests on all the systems, I THINK he checked the O2 sensor, (maybe not if there is a kink) etc...and found NOTHING!!!!!! Well today WHILE DRIVING, after pulling away from a light, it cut out..I felt something first this time...couldnt get it started again...samething won't crank...sounds like its out of gas. We went back a couple of hours later and it did not start this time....It's been towed AGAIn...any thoughts????
tidester, host
You may also want to consult Got a Quick, Technical Question?.
tidester, host
tidester, host
I have a question about a BWM 745Li. I have a little car light that comes on in the IDrive box. The car seems to be driving find, but this light is always on. Do I need to have a dealer like at it or is it something that I can fix?
You can also try our general Electrical problems discussion for help.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
The Please help me decide between... discussion may help too.
tidester, host
tidester, host
tidester, host
I have a 97 MPV that til now has been worry free. I recently noticed a marked deop in temp from my heater. Decided it was time for a flush maybe. Flushed the system as instrucred in my shop manual. Refilled the system, now i have plenty of airflow, but no heat. I read in my shop manual that there is circulation to the heater all the time unless the a/c is on or the entire system is off. Is there an electrically controlled valve that I am unaware of? If so, where is it? I checked the heather lines when the engine was up to temp, in and out are both hot. I also removed the trim and checked operation of the air doors...they seem to be working ok. Any ideas?
I have just been given a CD Changer/MP3 taken from a 2005 3 Series. I own a 2003 model of 320D. The back of the Changer has a connection for a 4x square type and 2 round pin type.
My car is prewired to accept a CD Changer/Mp3 but the leads connectors are the 4 & 6 pin square type.
Where can I find an adapter/connector lead to fit this to my car. Or is that this changer cannot be installed in 2003 models?
Any suggestions will be most helpful.
Many thanks
Philip