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Comments
If so, get out your checkbook, and get it towed to the transmission shop. Don't drive it around, as any little metal pieces can do further damage to the gears.
Had this same problem, I forget the name of the can like thing that gets a break in it. When it goes, it effects both reverse and 2nd.
Depending upon how much other gear damage you have from the metal parts moving around, it should cost around 2K to fix, give or take 500 for other parts and different areas of the country.
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Seems to me that since 2000 when GM went to the new body style and new engines that transmission failures at low mileage have become commonplace. I had a '92 Suburban with well over 150K on it with the original transmission and no problems at all. I now own an '06 Suburban...no problems yet with the tranny at 27K miles but it sure doesn't feel as solid as the unit in my '92. Also the 5.3 V-8 just doesn't have the torque that my '92 with the 5.7 engine had. Even sounds different. The newer GM models are nice to drive and have lots of toys but I don't think they are built nearly as strong as the older vehicles.
i read in some websites that may be the 4-speed gear is probably the cause and highly recommended to use the 6-speed used in the Escalade and Yukon Denali.
i think this will be my last chevy i buy, although my previous car was a trailblazer 2001 LT that had some problems in the AC actuator which made some knocking sounds in the dashboard, and haven't learnt from that lesson!
Thought I'd post for you our transmission problem, sort of...32,000 miles on our '07...we actually were unaware of the problem until our first oil change as owners (bought it used) Mechanic asked if were aware of a transmisson leak, obviously no! Very slow leak, not even hitting garage floor. Problem was a Front Torque Convertor seal. Only took dealer 1 day, no cost of course.
Still annoyed that my '07 vehicle was in the shop for anything, even though it was mild.
Anyone have any luck with GM replacing the transmission on the first break? If so, aren't they just going to replace it with another (potentially) faulty transmission?
Bought a new 2004 Tahoe with 7 miles on it:
3 months after purchase, transmission had to be rebuilt
7 months later the rear end leaked in the garage - rebuilt again
10 months later AC goes out
1 year 3 months old and the rear end has to be rebuilt for popping and slipping problem. Stop at a light and count to two and you get a slam feeling like someone just rear-ended you.
1 year 9 months old the rear end still having problems, locking up and grinding
2 years old the popping continues and when you turn on the left blinker the rear windshield wiper turns on.
Dealer says, trade it in on the new tahoe, my husband is suckered in. Rolled over debt onto new one.
2007 Tahoe purchased and computer has to be replaced 8 weeks later (doors won't lock, hatch won't open, auto start not working) was in the shop a total of 2 weeks combined as they replaced the remotes over and over.
leaks water like crazy
By the 8th water leak event the dealer still can't find the leak and tells me there is "nothing they can do"
Heater has to be on 90 or it doesn't heat - 89 degrees is still AC
14th leak event, transmission running at 182 degrees, still AC at 89 degrees inside the truck, starting to get the rear-ended slam when stopping or taking off. Display says tires are flat (when they are not), service traction control and stability track. Back up sensors beep like something is behind you, put it in drive and they beep until you reach your destination. Auto-start starts the vehicle then kills it right away.
Just picked it up from the dealership again this morning. They said "we noted your problems but couldn't duplicate them" I contacted Chevy and they said they do not do buy-backs on vehicles over 20K miles, which would have been great if I hadn't started having problems that they couldn't resolve at 180 miles!!!
I too had a bad experience in the mid 80's with a buick and switched to ford's but wife wanted a Tahoe this time and i gave in, never again.
My 03 Tahoe has started to make metallic clicking and clunking noises when putting it in to gear, reverse or drive after it has sat for a while and has cooled off. On occasion it seems like it clunks in to gear when getting started.
I've also noted last fall that the 4wd makes a loud clunking noise when putting it into gear.
I live in WI and like to use the 4wd but kept from doing that this winter as a result of the noise.
I am the 2nd owner of the truck. Would there still be any type of drive train warranty remaining on this truck?
Who would be best to service the truck? Chevy dealer or large private company?
From the description of the noises do you believe this would be a transmission problem or other drive train issue?
Any assistance that could be provided would be greatly appreciated.
Am I assuming correctly that I should block the front tires when the rear is jacked and vice versa? Do I check for the noise in neutral with truck turned off and turning one wheel as opposed to the other? Or otherwise?
Who would be best to service the truck?
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No more factory warranty on your '03. You would probably be better off taking your Tahoe to a GM dealer.
I am sooooo disappointed. I grew up with Chevy's and love the new design of the Tahoe, but I am kicking myself for not getting the Sequoia or Armada...I hate to admit that, but we have an 06 4 runner and it has twice as many miles and never any problems.
I doubt this is the case but is it even remotely possible that you had not pushed the stick all the way into second? I once had a car in which you had to push extra hard to get it into first gear. Otherwise, it exhibited behavior as you described even though it felt like I had pushed the stick all the way..
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
What makes it so impossible (or doubtful) that that was the case? A transmission cannot break while shifting?? Educate me...
I was suggesting no such thing. I merely conveyed that I had a somewhat similar experience.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
What should I demand at the service center on Monday?
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You can demand anything you want...but since the vehicle is still under warranty the dealer will do what GM tells them to do...and that is they will try to repair it first if that can be done. Second option is they will put in a new tranny. Just be glad it failed under warranty.
What died, the fans? Those are easy to replace.
It is in right now because it ataerted over heating even thoguh it is normal for the fans to be loud...then the service person told me I needed a flush on my ac that will cost 149.00. I said wow why do I need that, she said your suppose to have it done every 30000 miles read my manual. I told her to be a better sales rep and she is suppose to be my advisor and should have advised me 3 weeks ago this should hyave been done along with a transmission flush..
ARGH I am irate
Hard to say without hearing them, you could have a number of different problems.
- you could have a bearing on a fan going bad, making the noise
- you could have a fan blade broke, causing an imbalance/vibration/or noise.
- you could have a bearing going bad, fan slowing down and not cooling, causing you to overheat
- you could be overheating (leaked out fluid, bad water pump, etc), which is causing the fans to come on more than normal, and you are just hearing the fans running when they would not normally be on.
I never heard of a maintenance flush on AC....guess I need to read my manual! You'd have to flush an AC if you had a compressor go bad and had the possibility of metal filings in the line. It's freon and a little bit of oil in the AC, not sure why they would be flushing it.
Are you sure they didn't say they were going to flush your radiator and coolant, instead of the AC? That would make more sense, particularly with an overheating situation.
Thanks for your time
As soon as my failed (noticed that it didn't shift into 2nd), I was within a couple miles of home and parked it. When he later opened it up and showed me the parts, he indicated he could tell I didn't drive around on it much because there wasn't much other damage. All told as I remember, there were three parts that had damage that needed replacing....the original failed piece, and then two others when a broken off piece got sucked in between two other gears. When the metal chunks break up, if they get in any of the other gears they will ruin those gears.
I don't have the receipts anymore as I've since upgraded to a newer model year, but as I recall it your estimate is in the correct price range.
I have always done all of the work on our vehicles over the years, including a couple engine jobs and a number of manual transmission clutches, but this is not a job that I had the desire or reasonable comfort factor that I could do. Plus, it's the vehicle we use for long distance family trips, and I didn't want to get stuck somewhere if I didn't do it right. I had the factory service manuals, and it just appeared way too complicated for my liking. I didn't want to take the risk that I did the job, and put it all together and then found out something wasn't right and I'd have to take it apart again to redo something.
I was told to stay away from Transmission chains, but my local guy was a real knowledgeable professional, who knew exactly what he was doing. Compared to a couple independent shops, he just sounded more knowledgeable. He obviously had training and experience, which was worth it to pay for. It obviously is a big repair bill to swallow, but given how worthless the car is without a transmission, I don't think you have much choice but to fix it.
When it came to warranties, IIRC there is a 90 day warranty, but I could buy an optional extended warranty. I don't remember the cost, but the guy said listen....I don't know your tolerance for futher pain and ability to absorb another repair bill if it happens. But I've checked everything over and your transmission is in great shape now, and I don't see the need for you to buy an extended warranty. I didn't, and he was right. I don't know that you'll find that kind of trustworthy professional elsewhere, "your mileage may vary".
All the shops offered to tow the vehicle in "no charge", which you should also do to avoid further damage.
Good luck, in whatever you decide to do.