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Chevy Tahoe Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Is your 2nd gear gone as well? It will wind out much longer in 1st, and then shift to 3rd.

    If so, get out your checkbook, and get it towed to the transmission shop. Don't drive it around, as any little metal pieces can do further damage to the gears.

    Had this same problem, I forget the name of the can like thing that gets a break in it. When it goes, it effects both reverse and 2nd.

    Depending upon how much other gear damage you have from the metal parts moving around, it should cost around 2K to fix, give or take 500 for other parts and different areas of the country.
  • trezure4utrezure4u Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Yukon XL and the same thing happened to me today. I turned the corner and heard a loud band. I thought my timing belt may have broken. I lost my forward drive. I was left only with reverse. What was your cost and exact problem? I ask so I am informed before I take my car for service to prevent being taken for granted. This is so crazy. I purchased my car used in 2004 and have had no real problems. I was just thinking how great of a vehicle it was and how much I loved it. I dont know if I can keep it as I need dependable. I have a disabled child and this is our only means to getting him and his equipment around. I hope this is just a isolated incident for us. Let me know what to expect from the repair shop please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • nob1nob1 Member Posts: 1
    I bought my Tahoe new in 02. About 30,000 miles in, the transmission seemed to be slipping. Took it back to dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem. At 42,000 miles, the transmission failed (wouldn't go forward or reverse). Dealer did a rebuild under the powertrain warranty. Now, the vehicle has over 130K miles. A few months ago, I could feel a little slippage during gear changes or dead stop take offs. Hadn't taken it to shop yet. On the way to work today, heard a pop at a red light take off. Afterwards, the truck seemed stuck in a lower gear. Drove it another 1/2 mile more to the work parking lot. It won't go into reverse either. I like this vehicle, alot. My plan was to replace it next year with an Avalanche, but I'm seriously having second thoughts on these GM trucks. Gotta get it towed and I suspect it's about a $3000 repair. It just strikes me as abnormal to have these transmissions fail like this.
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    nob1 said: I'm seriously having second thoughts on these GM trucks. Gotta get it towed and I suspect it's about a $3000 repair. It just strikes me as abnormal to have these transmissions fail like this.
    ____________________________________________________________________
    Seems to me that since 2000 when GM went to the new body style and new engines that transmission failures at low mileage have become commonplace. I had a '92 Suburban with well over 150K on it with the original transmission and no problems at all. I now own an '06 Suburban...no problems yet with the tranny at 27K miles but it sure doesn't feel as solid as the unit in my '92. Also the 5.3 V-8 just doesn't have the torque that my '92 with the 5.7 engine had. Even sounds different. The newer GM models are nice to drive and have lots of toys but I don't think they are built nearly as strong as the older vehicles.
  • pan3pan3 Member Posts: 5
    Just had the pop and no forward gears (only reverse) on my 2007 Tahoe with 24,000 miles. Dealer said it is a sprag gear and other than just replacing with the same under warranty, no guarantee it won't strip/fail again. No design change by Chevy, but recogonized problem. My dealer has replaced 3 other 2007 failures his fall.
  • saidfa73saidfa73 Member Posts: 1
    Hi.. i am writing from Saudi Arabia and have faced the same problem with my 07 Tahoe LTZ 4WD.. my problem started when i was driving from work to grab a bite more than 2 weeks ago.. i slowed down for a road bump but as soon as i pressed the pedal a strong knock happened that seemed someone hit me from the back to me at first.. but soon realized that the car fealt heavier and i immediately stopped on the side of the road.. i tried shifting gears to reverse and neutral then restarted the engine.. i drove for less than a mile and then same thing occured again.. parked the car and called the GM Road Assistance number to send a tow truck for inspection by the agency since it is still under warranty (38000 km ~ 23500 miles).. after inspection they found some fault in the transmission but i couldn't understand the technical stuff.. i have been following up with the agency from the day it entered the agency and they claim now that the parts are not available and have to order it from the US.. the warranty covers this fault but i lost money on car rental since they say GM policy here in the Middle East that the agency is not obliged to provide a replacement car until the fault is approved by GM HQ in USA!!

    i read in some websites that may be the 4-speed gear is probably the cause and highly recommended to use the 6-speed used in the Escalade and Yukon Denali.

    i think this will be my last chevy i buy, although my previous car was a trailblazer 2001 LT that had some problems in the AC actuator which made some knocking sounds in the dashboard, and haven't learnt from that lesson!
  • pepsi2pepsi2 Member Posts: 1
    Does anybody know what it cost to replace a transfer case on 99 tahoe. Shop just called and said about $2000 may be 1750 if they can repair current one.
  • jbwilkjbwilk Member Posts: 5
    Hi all,

    Thought I'd post for you our transmission problem, sort of...32,000 miles on our '07...we actually were unaware of the problem until our first oil change as owners (bought it used) Mechanic asked if were aware of a transmisson leak, obviously no! Very slow leak, not even hitting garage floor. Problem was a Front Torque Convertor seal. Only took dealer 1 day, no cost of course.

    Still annoyed that my '07 vehicle was in the shop for anything, even though it was mild.
  • dunn77dunn77 Member Posts: 1
    My tahoe is a 99 model, it acts like it is stuck in 2nd gear all the time. I've been told it was the ignition swicth. Cause it carries current to the moduales in the transmission. Is this true or do I have other problems? :sick:
  • uncle_ricouncle_rico Member Posts: 12
    Our 07 Tahoe with 23k miles had to be towed to the dealership after we heard a loud pop while accelerating and then lost the ability to drive in any gear except reverse.

    Anyone have any luck with GM replacing the transmission on the first break? If so, aren't they just going to replace it with another (potentially) faulty transmission?
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    Since your vehicle is under warranty and assuming the transmission is the problem, GM will repair or replace transmission, whichever they choose. I would think the chance of getting another faulty transmission is very small.
  • judadriverjudadriver Member Posts: 3
    I had to seperate 07 transmissions with the same problem Dealer repaired both transmissions and I have had no problems since..
  • jilltjillt Member Posts: 2
    :sick: Talk about disappointed! Try this on for size:
    Bought a new 2004 Tahoe with 7 miles on it:
    3 months after purchase, transmission had to be rebuilt
    7 months later the rear end leaked in the garage - rebuilt again
    10 months later AC goes out
    1 year 3 months old and the rear end has to be rebuilt for popping and slipping problem. Stop at a light and count to two and you get a slam feeling like someone just rear-ended you.
    1 year 9 months old the rear end still having problems, locking up and grinding
    2 years old the popping continues and when you turn on the left blinker the rear windshield wiper turns on.
    Dealer says, trade it in on the new tahoe, my husband is suckered in. Rolled over debt onto new one.

    2007 Tahoe purchased and computer has to be replaced 8 weeks later (doors won't lock, hatch won't open, auto start not working) was in the shop a total of 2 weeks combined as they replaced the remotes over and over.
    leaks water like crazy
    By the 8th water leak event the dealer still can't find the leak and tells me there is "nothing they can do"
    Heater has to be on 90 or it doesn't heat - 89 degrees is still AC
    14th leak event, transmission running at 182 degrees, still AC at 89 degrees inside the truck, starting to get the rear-ended slam when stopping or taking off. Display says tires are flat (when they are not), service traction control and stability track. Back up sensors beep like something is behind you, put it in drive and they beep until you reach your destination. Auto-start starts the vehicle then kills it right away.
    Just picked it up from the dealership again this morning. They said "we noted your problems but couldn't duplicate them" I contacted Chevy and they said they do not do buy-backs on vehicles over 20K miles, which would have been great if I hadn't started having problems that they couldn't resolve at 180 miles!!!
  • trezure4utrezure4u Member Posts: 3
    One person noted that they had their transmission replaced by the dealer 11 times, The reported that the dealer told them that it was because they had big rims on the car. Then what about all of the other cars that dont have big tires that are having the same problem. This is ridiculous. It is clear that the problems lies with the transmission. We need to file a class action suit. My car is much older (2000) and I purchased it pre owned. Until now this is the only real problem that I have had. Based on the record of others with this problem, I will not buy another. It is a shame because I love all the features, size, build of this truck. It meets the needs of my family well. However, I cannot afford to continually have to replace transmission. Further, Im sure the timing will not always be right. When will it happen next when I am traveling cross country of something? I know Family Vacation? Just too unpredictable. No road trips for me. :lemon: :cry: :mad:
  • jbt1964jbt1964 Member Posts: 1
    Have a 2007 Tahoe and have a knocking sound at acceleration from a stop also. Took to dealer and they said the it was a loose bolt on the rear (also have had power window problems and remote problems),Take it home and it is still doing the same thing.
    I too had a bad experience in the mid 80's with a buick and switched to ford's but wife wanted a Tahoe this time and i gave in, never again.
  • tah04tah04 Member Posts: 8
    These trannys are out of control my tahoe is going in for it's third trans I only was able to put less then 10k miles on the last one. We all need to put complaints in with(NHTSA.GOV). I did however get GM to extend my trans coverage to 2011 or 100k miles by calling there customer assistance center @ 1800-222-1020. That is all good if you feel like breaking down on the side of the road every 10k miles. I am now looking to put a JASPER unit in the truck . I am going after GM to see if they will cover it. I will keep everyone posted. CJ
  • mzdiazmzdiaz Member Posts: 1
    The EXACT same thing just happened to my tahoe this weekend. You decribed it to a T!!! I'm so upset. I don't want a replacement transmission which is what they arer offering I want a new truck!
  • annasplitannasplit Member Posts: 1
    I just had the same issue today. Drove around the corner from my house, going about 25-30 mph and there was a lurching/dropping sensation in the vehicle and I lost the ability to drive - the engine kept revving, but going nowhere. Reverse worked, and then nothing else. I was facing the real possibility of reversing the whole way home on a very busy road, but luckily after a few tries I could get the car to work in 1st, 2nd and reverse. I drove to the dealership in 2nd gear. Called them this afternoon and the most they could tell me is that something is broken internally in the transmission but they won't be able to open it up to take a look for a few days from now. Looking at about a week until I get the vehicle back. It's an '07 also, with only 18K. We had a problem early last winter with the car getting stuck in 2wd with cold weather. And also some sort of sensor going out in the gas tank that caused the car to overheat and stall repeatedly. I'm thinking the vehicle wasn't such a great deal after all.
  • sarcevic23sarcevic23 Member Posts: 1
    Wow! I was really worried I had done something wrong to my car until I read AnnaSplit's post. THE EXACT THING HAPPENED TO ME LAST NIGHT. Pulled out of my driveway, went to accelerate and it was almost as if I hit something. It made a loud popping noise and wouldn't go, only revved when I gave it gas. I was about a mile away from home and had to drive home in 1st gear (the only gear that worked) with my hazards on. Quite scary. I really have no complaints about this car, it's beautiful. Things happen, I understand and with EVERY vehicle make comes a different problem. Glad to know I am not alone.
  • apowell94apowell94 Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced the transmission and it won't shift into gear. It was acting up before the transmission went it out. I think it is the sensor on the brake pedal. Any ideas? Is this hard to replace?
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Member Posts: 175
    if you replaced the trans on your own a couple of things to check before you do anything major mlps (manual lever position sensor) does it read right on the dashif not readjust it or the shift interlock solenoid may not function.check fuses for blown fuse may also cause shift interlock solenoid not to work...hope this helps
  • tahoonotahoono Member Posts: 2
    I've reviewed the posts and have several questions. The truck has just over 80k miles.

    My 03 Tahoe has started to make metallic clicking and clunking noises when putting it in to gear, reverse or drive after it has sat for a while and has cooled off. On occasion it seems like it clunks in to gear when getting started.

    I've also noted last fall that the 4wd makes a loud clunking noise when putting it into gear.

    I live in WI and like to use the 4wd but kept from doing that this winter as a result of the noise.

    I am the 2nd owner of the truck. Would there still be any type of drive train warranty remaining on this truck?

    Who would be best to service the truck? Chevy dealer or large private company?

    From the description of the noises do you believe this would be a transmission problem or other drive train issue?

    Any assistance that could be provided would be greatly appreciated.
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Member Posts: 175
    this one is pretty wide open really u-joints differential pinion slop t-case all suspect I would suggest starting with checking the basics jack and support rear end (SAFETY FIRST) check rear drive shaft ujoints and pinion for slop. then repeat for front diff and drive line chances are you may find your clunking noise. if not located by this inspection suspect slop in t-case. please note that your vehicle is auto 4wd all 4 tires MUST be the same size or t-case failure/problems will become present
  • tahoonotahoono Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. I am hoping it is one of your first thoughts as opposed the the transfer case. Tires and wheels are the same size.

    Am I assuming correctly that I should block the front tires when the rear is jacked and vice versa? Do I check for the noise in neutral with truck turned off and turning one wheel as opposed to the other? Or otherwise?
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    Would there still be any type of drive train warranty remaining on this truck?
    Who would be best to service the truck?
    ____________________________________________________________________
    No more factory warranty on your '03. You would probably be better off taking your Tahoe to a GM dealer.
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Member Posts: 175
    the whole trick is to be safe while you check your car/truck block the wheels, support the truck on jackstands.once you have the wheels off the ground you will be able to check the drive shafts and pinions for slop i have seen many vehicles that have 1/4 to 1/3 turn of slop on the differential which can account for some delayed engagements and also banging engagements its a matter of finding the noise. eliminate the most obvious and go from there. differentials, u-joints, t-case, body bushings, and so on
  • rachaelwrachaelw Member Posts: 4
    I have a 07 Tahoe LT with 18,000 miles. About six months ago, I was sitting at a traffic light and started to accelerate. When the truck went to go in second, it missed and redlined. I pulled over in the middle of the road, shut the truck off and restarted. It seemed fine, so I go to where I was going and called the dealer. They had me bring it in. NOTHING was wrong!! I was very angry since I had an infant in the car and did not want to leave without having an answer. They had me bring the truck back in to replace some valve in the tranny. Ok, it has been fine, until tonight! I was on my way home at a redlight, accelerated and lost it shifting into second. This time I am stuck in the middle of the road, no gears except reverse, but cars were behind me!! I was less then a half mile from home. I shut it off and on, and played around with the gears. I got 1, 2, and R...no D or 3. I made it home and used Onstar to run diagnostics and they said nothing was showing up!! I went out an hour after I got home to see if it miraculously fixed itself like the last time, but no luck. It grinds like crazy in first, so I am going to have it towed in the AM.

    I am sooooo disappointed. I grew up with Chevy's and love the new design of the Tahoe, but I am kicking myself for not getting the Sequoia or Armada...I hate to admit that, but we have an 06 4 runner and it has twice as many miles and never any problems. :cry::cry::cry:
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    accelerated and lost it shifting into second

    I doubt this is the case but is it even remotely possible that you had not pushed the stick all the way into second? I once had a car in which you had to push extra hard to get it into first gear. Otherwise, it exhibited behavior as you described even though it felt like I had pushed the stick all the way..

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • rachaelwrachaelw Member Posts: 4
    Yes, I was at a stop, hit the gas to go and as it went to shift to second, it missed and redlined! I am not an idiot, this has happened twice. I just got my Tahoe back today. They replaced the sprag clutch. The truck is amazing and I love it, but just worry about it happening again. I would not even trust a new tranny since it is common in these trucks.

    What makes it so impossible (or doubtful) that that was the case? A transmission cannot break while shifting?? Educate me...
  • jochampjochamp Member Posts: 3
    Last year they replaced the sprag on my 07 Tahoe and I have not had a tranny problem since. You should feel confident that the issue is resolved.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    What makes it so impossible (or doubtful) that that was the case?

    I was suggesting no such thing. I merely conveyed that I had a somewhat similar experience.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • rachaelwrachaelw Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, we have a house at the beach and I was concerned about the reliability of my Tahoe this summer. I am glad to hear that replacing the sprag is a solution!
  • rachaelwrachaelw Member Posts: 4
    Sorry, I must have misunderstood your reply, I was very frustrated at that time! It is tough when you buy a brand new vehicle and have problems with it!
  • musgrllvrmusgrllvr Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2000 chevy tahoe limited and i have a hard time putting it in gear. (taking it out of park) On my other chevy trucks i step on the brake and shift but this truck is tough. I have to barely step on the brake to get it out. If i step on it a little too mush it wont come out of park. Also, my brake lights are delayed, they dont turn on right away when i step on the brake. Its almost as if they turn on whenever they want. NEED ADVICE
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Member Posts: 175
    sounds like your brake switch is failing. which is also the shift interlock i would suggest replacing the brake switch on the pedal and see if it doesnt resolve your problem
  • musgrllvrmusgrllvr Member Posts: 2
    is that something i can do on my own or do i need to take it to a shop?
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Member Posts: 175
    oh you should be able to do it yourself its right on the brake pedal under the dash...but do yourself a favor and spend a couple extra bucks and specify oem replacement if you cant get it at autoparts store go to the dealership for it.shouldn't take more than about 15-20 minutes
  • tylerrconwaytylerrconway Member Posts: 1
    My tahoe seems to be stalling every time it shifts down out of overdrive, then I coast to the side of the road restart it and it runs like normal until it tries to shift down out of overdrive. Three codes came up on my cofe reader, they were p0300 multiple engine misfires and p0151 and p0131 bank 1 and 2 O2 senser low voltage. Does anyone have any insight on why this might only be happening immediately after shifting out of overdrive?
  • walt2364walt2364 Member Posts: 1
    Just took my 07 Tahoe into the dealer to have the transmission rebuilt for the second time. First transmission died at 29K. Latest transmission died at 45K. Service dept told me that it would be seven days before they could begin repairs and that no loaner would be available until they started the work. After a call to the service manager, they found a Cobalt for me to drive. It feels great to be driving a $12K compact car while making payments on a $45K SUV. This is easily my last American car.
  • candykcandyk Member Posts: 2
    I am new at posting too. My LTZ had less then 400 miles on it about 1 week after purchasing my tahoe the trans went out, We called the dealer they had it towed and put a new trans in. Then two weeks ago with 22000 miles the trans went out again this time they fixed it but did not give us a new one. I think we should try to file for the lemon law, it looks like that is what we have :lemon: The first trans was put in by a dealer in Ontario Ca. The second Victorville Ca. :sick:
  • gsimilagsimila Member Posts: 1
    My 2007 Tahoe (12K miles) just went out yesterday as I entered the freeway. As I accelerated, the rpms went up and a loud clunk happened. Then only grinding as I pulled over to the side.
    What should I demand at the service center on Monday?
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    What should I demand at the service center on Monday?
    ____________________________________________________________________
    You can demand anything you want...but since the vehicle is still under warranty the dealer will do what GM tells them to do...and that is they will try to repair it first if that can be done. Second option is they will put in a new tranny. Just be glad it failed under warranty.
  • carolyn9776carolyn9776 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2007 Chevy LT Tahoe and have never had a problem with my transmission and I have 41,000 miles on it. I am however having proiblems with the fans that are supposed to cool the truck running super loud. The dealer states they all do that. I told them bull I have driven 41,000 miles and it hasn't done it now all of a suddden it dies. I called gm corp, they weren't very helpful, but I have my ticket escalated. Told them we have owned 9 of chevy's vehichles and have never had a problem. Told them I want resolution or they will hear from my attorney next
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Oh that'll get them shaking in their boots.

    What died, the fans? Those are easy to replace.
  • carolyn9776carolyn9776 Member Posts: 3
    I really don' think they care. The fans did not die, they are just very loud. The service rep tried to tell me that is normal. I told her to get pumped. Been driving my truck for 41000 miles and it has never sounded like this, so is normal at a certain mileage the fans get loud and you say thats normal?

    It is in right now because it ataerted over heating even thoguh it is normal for the fans to be loud...then the service person told me I needed a flush on my ac that will cost 149.00. I said wow why do I need that, she said your suppose to have it done every 30000 miles read my manual. I told her to be a better sales rep and she is suppose to be my advisor and should have advised me 3 weeks ago this should hyave been done along with a transmission flush..

    ARGH I am irate
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The fans would not get loud with age.

    Hard to say without hearing them, you could have a number of different problems.
    - you could have a bearing on a fan going bad, making the noise
    - you could have a fan blade broke, causing an imbalance/vibration/or noise.
    - you could have a bearing going bad, fan slowing down and not cooling, causing you to overheat
    - you could be overheating (leaked out fluid, bad water pump, etc), which is causing the fans to come on more than normal, and you are just hearing the fans running when they would not normally be on.

    I never heard of a maintenance flush on AC....guess I need to read my manual! You'd have to flush an AC if you had a compressor go bad and had the possibility of metal filings in the line. It's freon and a little bit of oil in the AC, not sure why they would be flushing it.

    Are you sure they didn't say they were going to flush your radiator and coolant, instead of the AC? That would make more sense, particularly with an overheating situation.
  • tahbowtahbow Member Posts: 1
    Hello lilsuthern I was wondering if you have the Part #'s or link for the parts you needed to do the rebuild and replace the sensor..I thought I found a tsb about reprogramming that needed to be done--

    Thanks for your time
  • franchisez71franchisez71 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 05 Z71 with 60 K on the clock.. driving up to syracuse new york on the highway... let off the gas to slow down to 65 .. then i hit the gas to speed up and it slips rpms go away and then left off the gas.. does it a couple of times and then finally it does nothing at all.. goes to trans shop and they say its a Trasfer Case decoder/actuator .... any help?
  • dtroitdtroit Member Posts: 5
    the trans popped and I lost reverse and 2nd gear. it had been making clunking noises for awhile, but mechanic said it was common slop in transfer case for this vehicle especially with high milaege. Was he wrong? it's obviously a trans problem also so I think I may want to tackle this problem myself, has anyone here rebuilt these units. If its going to cost 2000 bucks i would rather buy the special tools and manuals and do the job myself. any help much appreciated.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Had a 97 Sub, which experienced same problem...2nd and reverse. I saw the broken piece(s), but would need a parts breakout to remember the name of the piece that failed. It's some sort of drumlike part, which housed as I recall a number of the clutch plates. It broke at it's spindle connection hub. I had called around to get estimates which all tended to be broad ranges, except the AAmco guy....based on my symptoms indicated what it was most likely, and he was right on.

    As soon as my failed (noticed that it didn't shift into 2nd), I was within a couple miles of home and parked it. When he later opened it up and showed me the parts, he indicated he could tell I didn't drive around on it much because there wasn't much other damage. All told as I remember, there were three parts that had damage that needed replacing....the original failed piece, and then two others when a broken off piece got sucked in between two other gears. When the metal chunks break up, if they get in any of the other gears they will ruin those gears.

    I don't have the receipts anymore as I've since upgraded to a newer model year, but as I recall it your estimate is in the correct price range.

    I have always done all of the work on our vehicles over the years, including a couple engine jobs and a number of manual transmission clutches, but this is not a job that I had the desire or reasonable comfort factor that I could do. Plus, it's the vehicle we use for long distance family trips, and I didn't want to get stuck somewhere if I didn't do it right. I had the factory service manuals, and it just appeared way too complicated for my liking. I didn't want to take the risk that I did the job, and put it all together and then found out something wasn't right and I'd have to take it apart again to redo something.

    I was told to stay away from Transmission chains, but my local guy was a real knowledgeable professional, who knew exactly what he was doing. Compared to a couple independent shops, he just sounded more knowledgeable. He obviously had training and experience, which was worth it to pay for. It obviously is a big repair bill to swallow, but given how worthless the car is without a transmission, I don't think you have much choice but to fix it.

    When it came to warranties, IIRC there is a 90 day warranty, but I could buy an optional extended warranty. I don't remember the cost, but the guy said listen....I don't know your tolerance for futher pain and ability to absorb another repair bill if it happens. But I've checked everything over and your transmission is in great shape now, and I don't see the need for you to buy an extended warranty. I didn't, and he was right. I don't know that you'll find that kind of trustworthy professional elsewhere, "your mileage may vary".

    All the shops offered to tow the vehicle in "no charge", which you should also do to avoid further damage.

    Good luck, in whatever you decide to do.
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