We love our Aztek. I would recommend getting a warranty. There is a company (I think that it is called Eagle warranty, or something like that) that provides warranties for used cars. You may want to look into it. They cover a whole bunch of stuff. You may want to have a mechanic check the intake manifold gasket to see if it is leaking. It is fairly easy to tell if the gasket is leaking or not, and they should know what to look for. Other than that, make sure you keep the maintenance up, and I would recommend using synthetic oil on the oil changes. I switched to synthetic and my engine runs better and I get better mileage for it. Check the BCM to make sure that it is not corroded. Umm, I think that is all that I can think of right now. Good luck, hope that this helps.
Hello,Im having a small problem with my aztek,when im driving down the road it squealing,but when its in park or neutral its fine i replaced drive belt ,topped off all coolants and still noisy please help!!!!!!!!
I've had my '04 for one year now, and last May the ignition switch would not release the key after the vehicle was turned off. I called Pontiac and they said it was most likely a solenoid and to shift the car from park to 1st repeatedly until the key comes out. This simply does not work. Don't think it's a solenoid - we've gone through one battery already, and since the new battery was installed last week, the key will nearly never come out and continues to drain the brand new battery. Any suggestions?? I read about the BCM and fuses 42 & 44; and the hole under the steering column. I haven't tried these yet. Thanks....
Thanks - I just tried that; I must need something longer. I have the little cover off (just under the ign.) and I can see the Pass Key III thing, but just what is it that I'm supposed to trigger to get the keys out?? Thanks again.
Yes... that's my solution too, stick a pen or something with a sharp point in the little hole and the keys will release. We have been able to get this fixed at the dealership, so I have just learned to live with it. I keep a little thin screwdriver in the the cubby next to the steering wheel, so I am always prepared
We have the entire lower cover off from under the steering column, and the only place we can see to stick a screwdriver or the like is a downward tube with a silver button way up inside. We've tried this and it is not working to release the keys.
Last nite after not being able to get the key out, we had to disconnect the battery. Reconnected it this a.m. and the car would not start (turned over, wouldn't stay running) and the key is still stuck in ignition. Now what?? I am without a vehicle and cringe to think of the cost for repairs. Any ideas would be appreciated.
We have an '04 AWD, and starting a few months ago the ignition would only turn off half way, the key was stuck, and the battery would be draining. This went on all summer - sometimes the key would come out, sometimes not. Weellll, yesterday the key got stuck and is still stuck. We disconnected the battery last nite to save it; reconnected it this a.m. and now the car will not start at all. It turns over, but will not stay running. I've read about the BCM, and corrosion/wire problems and a Pontiac dealer told me the ignition issue was probably a solenoid in the shift panel. Please help - I am without a vehicle now and cannot afford 2-3 thousand in repairs. My husband is very good at vehicle repair if we could only find a Chiltons or Haines.
So, after our aztek completely died we had it towed to another dealership. Turns out the reason why it died was the wires leading to the fuel pump were completely corroded. That was fixed and then the repair man went to work on the electrical issues. Well, less than 1 day and under $150 later we find out that a resistor to the AC was causing all the problems!!! That was replaced and now our car is back to normal! No flashing lights, AC works on all 5 stages, no dinging alarms, no more running lamps blinking, NOTHING!!!! Long, expensive story short...check the resistors on the AC before you have the BCM replaced. Hope this helps someone else.
I have a 2001 with 151,000 and have had several different problems, but related to the one's mentioned here. For what it's worth...my experiences. 1)the key stuck thing. Turns out my problem was a loose, then broken wire that goes to the Park position switch inside the center console. I was able to resolder the ends and tape it up. This needs to be contacted to power or unpower a solenoid in the ignition switch that needs to move to let you remove the key. This is also part of the brake switch to prevent accidental shifting into neutral without your foot being on the brake. That's what the little hole under the key/column is for...to manually release the key you insert a screwdriver or in my case a 3"x1/4" screw up into the hole to push that lever to then remove the key. I keep mine handy..just in case. 2) The BCM issue. I had all the crazy issues with horns honking, lights flashing, not starting, Passlock III thousand or whatever preventing you from starting your own car! Finally had the BCM changed, no more problems. Negotiated about a $400 repair at the dealership. This is a common early aztek problem.
Other problems I have had (mind you I find that this has been the most reliable and trustworthy, comfortable and useful vehicle I have ever owned) It been 110,000 miles since my 4th gear overdrive stopped working and they wouldn't fix it because they said I was 2,000mi over the warranty. Well I get a little poorer mileage driving in 3rd, but saved(delayed?) $2500 repair (knock on wood still going)
A/C condenser and fuel pump/sender. Oh and the infamous GM 3400 V6 intake manifold gasket leak (mine wasn't that bad and leaked out so I was able to watch it for a long time till I finally had it fixed).
I got a new one problem--my original battery is pooped, but can't get it out because the bolt just spins around and you can't get to the nut on the bottom!!!!! Any ideas?
I went to walmart to have battery replaced. They couldn't get it out because the bolt holding down spins around and will not come out. They said there is no way to get at the nust attached under the bolt to remove it. Any ideas?
Hhmm that could be trouble. I'd have to wonder if perhaps they used the wrong size socket to get bolt off and/or stripped it (it should be 9/16). Its not easy to get any other kind of gripping tool down there to put any kind of up pressure on it while turning. I can take a closer look to see if its possible to get a hand under there and maybe push bolt from bottom. Or perhaps someone real creative could suggest putting goop like stuff in socket,put it on bolt let it dry and then very gently lift while turning.
2004 aztec 21,000 miles. just got month ago. drove it last night, today i get in and can insert and remove ignition key, but it won't turn to start vehicle. called service manager, who used to own it, and he said to turn wheel and igition at same time, steering wheel won't turn at all, no play in it. checked fuses, ok. any suggestions??? please, i already have 2 tires with slow leaks i have to get fixed, and now this!
never mind got it. checked the little hole underneath steering column, and reeeallly reefed on the steering wheel to turn it as turned ignition, it worked!!
1)the key stuck thing. Turns out my problem was a loose, then broken wire that goes to the Park position switch inside the center console. I was able to resolder the ends and tape it up. This needs to be contacted to power or unpower a solenoid in the ignition switch that needs to move to let you remove the key. This is also part of the brake switch to prevent accidental shifting into neutral without your foot being on the brake. That's what the little hole under the key/column is for...to manually release the key you insert a screwdriver or in my case a 3"x1/4" screw up into the hole to push that lever to then remove the key. I keep mine handy..just in case.
This has to be a really common problem for GM or they wouldn't have made the whole. I didn't get it at first, but once I figured it out, it is as easy as pie. If I can find the digital camera, I will take a pic to show you where to look.
Thanks again. It was SO SO SO frustrating over the last few months.
'This has to be a really common problem for GM or they wouldn't have made the hole'
May not be a common problem, perhaps someone thought " What if this safety feature breaks" and came up with a solution, just like the override when it gets stuck in park.
I have a 2004 Aztec. A couple of weeks ago, I began having an issue with the key not going into the ignition. I've had the key checked to see if it was bent, etc. but the key seems to be okay. I literally have to keep tapping, repeatedly pushing, or jabbing at the key hole until the key finally slides into the ignition. It's like there is something in the way at the opening and once I get past it then the key goes in. I've looked to see if something was actually in the slot but nothing is apparent. Has anyone ever heard of this issue?
Also, for well over a year, I have experienced intermittent issues with not being able to push in the release button on the gear shift to move it out of park. Any insights on that issue?
For the key not going in problem, you may be able to correct it by getting some powdered graphite (for locks) in the cylinder. If not, the cylinder may have to be replaced (do you have a lot of stuff on your key ring? I have jeard that can cause troubles overe time).
For the gear shift, possibly its an issue with the brake transaxle shift interlock, or possibly BCM haveing issues. How do you get around it, restart vehicle or just mess around till it works?
I know the location but does anyone know the best way to get it out of a 2001 Aztek? I removed the plastic around the gear shift but do I need to take the dash apart some how? Can anyone give me details on screw locations that have to removed? I just $900 on getting just the idle fixed and now I too am getting the flashing lights, doors unlocking, trunk unlatching etc. I know it needs programmed but I really need to save money on this project as I just make minimum wage (like the dealer cares). What about putting one in from a junk yard? Will any year Aztek BCM work?
I just replaced my BCM and did it as cheaply as possible since I'm out of work and really broke! Order it from brightauto.com who have it the cheapest, $150 with shipping and all - CVC-15143352 MODULE ASSEMBLY BODY CONTROL Quantity : 1 Price : $143.60 I also have the pages from the service manual showing the how to if you want to give me your regular email I can send them to you. The whole console needs to be removed to get it out. It will need to be programmed by the dealership after you replace it, that cost me $80. Don't get the part from the junk yard since chances are good it could be a bad part too as it is a very common problem with Azteks. Hope this helps!
Did you say FLASHING LIGHTS??? My '02 Aztek is at the dealership as we speak because I have been having serious flashing lights...it's like my car (in female terms) "blinks". My headlights, dash lights, and radio all go off for like 2 seconds and then come back on. Also, my hatch hasn't opened in over 7 months and I have no idea if that is electrically related to what is going on with the lights. I'm terrified with the holidays approaching that it's going to be so expensive, luckily I used to work at this dealership and they're giving me an account but still...my brother drove it to St. Louis from Quincy this past Sunday and they couldn't even get through one song on the radio that's how frequent the lights flashed...and the first time they did it it was behind a cop...
Quick fix for hatch not opening is to remove BCM fuse (#28 in underhood fuse box) for about 20 secs or so, it kinda re-sets BCM. As these start to get older you might have to wonder if battery is getting tired also and causing funny things to happen.
First off I encourge everyone who is having electrical problems to call GM headquarters . They told me they need a certain % of owners to call on a spicific problem before the can give a recall. From what i see here this may help lot of people save their money for GMs elctrical assembly problems in their AzteksDONT LET THEM GET AWAY WITH IT! I am having many of the problems that i see on here. I replaced the retained Acc. Power relay because i found when having these "Disco" Problems that fuse #33 was the only one clicking and was very hot to the touch. problem fixed for 3 weeks and know worse then before i tried fuse #28 with no sucsess. I would like to get my back hatch open the key will not work is there another option anyone knows of and also any current help with problems.
As for the hatch, the fuse suggestion by Ray80 worked for me, BUT I had to open the hood, pull the fuse, replace the fuse, close the hood EVERY single time I needed the hatch open because it never worked more than once each time the fuse was pulled. I would sure like to know why even though the remote and dash buttons won't open it, why on earth my key won't open it either. My father-in-law said that if I could obtain the electrical layout or something that he could bypass those buttons and make a button under the wheel well instead but I'm afraid that won't work since the key won't work either. As for the disco lights...I just got my car back Weds. from the dealership and they found nothing wrong (of course). Their only explanation was that my battery was tilted and practically laying on its side! It was in turn rubbing against the fly-wheel. I would like to think this is what caused the blinking but because so many other people are having this problem I doubt everyone's batteries are lying on their sides... AND then my husband went to get in the car and low and behold he couldn't get the key in - the tumbler had "fell" so luckily someone tapped on it and it fell back into place but still, it's like, what's next?-Jessica :sick:
My Aztek just started having this weird starting problem. Some times when i go to start the car, the dashboard lights come on but the gauges do not move, and car does not even turn over. Then after about 10-15 minutes, the car starts (with me pumping the gas to get it to catch, but this might be because it has sat for 3 weeks in the cold) I replaced the battery and the positive battery terminal, it was corroded all the way to the wire it self. Need help, this is the only car i have.
My key is out and can be put in the ignition and is sensed because the warning bell goes off. BUT, my steering wheel, brakes, ignition and gear shift is completely locked. The ignition won't turn at all. I checked all the relevant fuses but nothing works? Any suggestions because i don't even know how i would have the car towed in this locked state? Help!!!!!!!
My key is out and can be put in the ignition and is sensed because the warning bell goes off. BUT, my steering wheel, brakes, ignition and gear shift is completely locked. The ignition won't turn at all. I checked all the relevant fuses but nothing works? Any suggestions because i don't even know how i would have the car towed in this locked state? Help!!!!!!!
Difficult to tell for sure, but for starters if leaving the vehicle without starting for weeks at a time it will tend to drain battery (security for vehicle and radio is always hot, in other words always draing battery.) Also if you happen to have anything (like cell phone charger) plugged in to hot outlet (cigar lighter), that could cause problem. I believe GM sent a memo to delalers a while back stating vehicles (even new ones) should be started at a minimum every two weeks to recharge battery. It is also possible tou may have questiobale connection to battery (even though you changed it and cable). Mine had new battery put in improperly and the mating surface (on battery side) had a litle hump on it and it would fail to start every couple months (requiring unhooking cable and putting it back on until I actually took a real good look and corrected). m
1. I so wish I had really researched this a little more before buying an Aztek. Don't get me wrong I love my Aztek, but I have had alot of problems. Last year about this time the whole electrical system went haywire, security lights came on and lights went off and on radio shut off on etc. Long story short was at a garage for over three months only to find out there is condensation in the electrical system. One mechanic was able dry it up. but in reading all your stories here, i wonder if it is not something else...if anyone had any info PLEASE HELP!!!! :sick:
I just picked up my 2001 aztek from repair shop for a cracked engine block. The next day the windows, a/c instruments panel and radio do not work. The radio display shows LOCKED on it. Checked all fuses and battery all okay. any ideas?
I tried all the suggestions and still can't get it to unlock. found the shirt release so i can get it out of park, but thats it. The wheel is currently cranked to the left all the way. the last person who drove it parked it that way and i fear thats how it got stuck. I have considered jacking the car up in the front to relieve pressure hoping that works. But i am a female with no car experience so have to wait for my neighbor the come help me jack the car up. if anyone else has suggestions please let me know. I am single mom without the funds to take it to the dealer.
I think you have have to pull very hard on the wheel (to the left most likely) while you try and turn the key, it should release (won't be easy though)
Kind of sounds like communication with BCM may be messed up. I would check connection to underhood fuse box (they may have joggled/moved or whatever) to make sure it is tight. While you are there, try the re-set thing for BCM, pull fuse #28 for about 20 secs or so and re-seat it.
Hi, I have a 2004 Aztek with 111,000 miles on it. Just recently I am having this problem of the key not coming out of the ignition when the car is in park. This means the engine keeps running. We pulled of the paneling under the steering wheel & found the release key. What I would like to know is how is this happening?. I bought the car in August 07 & I love it. It is a very well maintained vehicle for as many miles that is on it. Any answers welcome. Thank you. :confuse:
I assume you mean the key won't turn to the off/lock position. It sounds like you may have a problems with the brake transaxle shift interlock. You may be able to confirm this by doing a test next time it happens. Try shifting it out of park into and back into park and try key again (you may have to do this a few times), if it does work it is likely the BTSI isn't working right, either the gizmo itself or broken/shorted/corroded wire.
My 2001 Aztek hatch would not open. I pulled and reinstalled fuse #28 to "reset" the BCM as suggested in several postings and this worked.
Now the doors won't lock with any of the power door lock buttons or the remote key fob. Last night I pulled this same fuse again and this worked for 1 trip to the grocery store and back. When I shut off the car, same problem.
I suspect a failing BCM. Any other suggestions?
Is replacing the BCM something an average person with some mechanical ability but not much patience (or time) can do?
It sounds like BCM related issue for sure. Couple things ou may want to consider before replacing are: Is the battery still the original and pehaps getting tired (low voltage can affect the electronics)? Also in one of the topics here under the Aztek forums I posted how one owner cleaned the connections to BCM and corrected the strange problems he was having (never heard of troubles coming back either).
I haven't had to break into console area (where BCM is located) on mine for anything yet so I don't know how difficult it is.
I have a similar problem. However, I do not have the noise issue. My aztek is an '02, pushing 80,000 m. I'm losing coolant-but i cannot find where. I haven't noticed any drip spots under the car after its been parked, but after a few days I'm losing coolant and the temp guage goes up. I keep filling it back up, it behaves a few days, then it happens all over again. The needle has never made it to the danger zone, but definitely the temp is higher than normal. I don't have any white smoke, so I don't think is a major problem (yet). But I can defintely smell it burning off somewhere when I get out of the car. I have looked and looked til my neck aches under and over and I don't see any signs of drippage. Any suggestions?
If yours has never had the intake manifold gaskets changed to updated part it is highly likely that may be the issue. Until it gets real bad its difficult to see as the coolant tends to evaporate. You may be able see the effects though by looking at engine from drivers side front. From top down I believe the valve cover gasket comes first, then intake gasket (look for thin black (or one of mine was blue) line). You may see oily looking residue around that area and if you do it is likely gasket is failing.
Another thing to check is fuses/relays in cabin fuse box. One owner had hatch troubles and also key fob problem that he corrected by re-seating relay #33 in that box (he also checked.re-seated others because he was there). .
Where are the BCM connections that might need cleaning located?
I can't remember if the battery is OE or not but will check tonight. I did disconnect / reconnect the positive cable to the battery a few nights ago (before I learned about fuse 28 in this forum). It seemed tight and corrosion free at that time. Also checked fuse seating on other fuses in the passenger compartment fuse center, all satisfactory. Speaking of fuses, is there another one (in the engine compartment fuse center) that provides a signal/ power to the BCM?
I note that one owner mentioned moisture (lots) on the floorboard under the carpet on driver's side and that drying this area out and the connections to the box that's under this seat seemed to help. I haven't noticed any moisture, but I haven't looked and, according to this owner, it would not be visible without lifting the carpet under the seat.
The BCM is located under shifter somewhere (as are the connections). I'm sure there is fuses and or relays in underhood fuse box also that may be hooked someway to BCM, I'd have to look in manual to find out for sure. If I can think of anything else or if I find anything, I'll post it.
Thanks. We did try the taking out of park & putting back in a couple times. I will let my husband know. We figured it was probably electrical. But thank god we found the release key - in the manual it doesn't even talk about it.
Comments
Good luck, hope that this helps.
i replaced drive belt ,topped off all coolants and still noisy please help!!!!!!!!
Thanks again.
1)the key stuck thing. Turns out my problem was a loose, then broken wire that goes to the Park position switch inside the center console. I was able to resolder the ends and tape it up. This needs to be contacted to power or unpower a solenoid in the ignition switch that needs to move to let you remove the key. This is also part of the brake switch to prevent accidental shifting into neutral without your foot being on the brake. That's what the little hole under the key/column is for...to manually release the key you insert a screwdriver or in my case a 3"x1/4" screw up into the hole to push that lever to then remove the key. I keep mine handy..just in case.
2) The BCM issue. I had all the crazy issues with horns honking, lights flashing, not starting, Passlock III thousand or whatever preventing you from starting your own car! Finally had the BCM changed, no more problems. Negotiated about a $400 repair at the dealership. This is a common early aztek problem.
Other problems I have had (mind you I find that this has been the most reliable and trustworthy, comfortable and useful vehicle I have ever owned)
It been 110,000 miles since my 4th gear overdrive stopped working and they wouldn't fix it because they said I was 2,000mi over the warranty. Well I get a little poorer mileage driving in 3rd, but saved(delayed?) $2500 repair (knock on wood still going)
A/C condenser and fuel pump/sender. Oh and the infamous GM 3400 V6 intake manifold gasket leak (mine wasn't that bad and leaked out so I was able to watch it for a long time till I finally had it fixed).
I got a new one problem--my original battery is pooped, but can't get it out because the bolt just spins around and you can't get to the nut on the bottom!!!!! Any ideas?
1)the key stuck thing. Turns out my problem was a loose, then broken wire that goes to the Park position switch inside the center console. I was able to resolder the ends and tape it up. This needs to be contacted to power or unpower a solenoid in the ignition switch that needs to move to let you remove the key. This is also part of the brake switch to prevent accidental shifting into neutral without your foot being on the brake. That's what the little hole under the key/column is for...to manually release the key you insert a screwdriver or in my case a 3"x1/4" screw up into the hole to push that lever to then remove the key. I keep mine handy..just in case.
This has to be a really common problem for GM or they wouldn't have made the whole. I didn't get it at first, but once I figured it out, it is as easy as pie. If I can find the digital camera, I will take a pic to show you where to look.
Thanks again. It was SO SO SO frustrating over the last few months.
May not be a common problem, perhaps someone thought " What if this safety feature breaks" and came up with a solution, just like the override when it gets stuck in park.
Also, for well over a year, I have experienced intermittent issues with not being able to push in the release button on the gear shift to move it out of park. Any insights on that issue?
For the gear shift, possibly its an issue with the brake transaxle shift interlock, or possibly BCM haveing issues. How do you get around it, restart vehicle or just mess around till it works?
CVC-15143352
MODULE ASSEMBLY BODY CONTROL
Quantity : 1
Price : $143.60
I also have the pages from the service manual showing the how to if you want to give me your regular email I can send them to you. The whole console needs to be removed to get it out. It will need to be programmed by the dealership after you replace it, that cost me $80. Don't get the part from the junk yard since chances are good it could be a bad part too as it is a very common problem with Azteks. Hope this helps!
I am having many of the problems that i see on here. I replaced the retained Acc. Power relay because i found when having these "Disco" Problems that fuse #33 was the only one clicking and was very hot to the touch. problem fixed for 3 weeks and know worse then before i tried fuse #28 with no sucsess. I would like to get my back hatch open the key will not work is there another option anyone knows of and also any current help with problems.
Thanks James
As for the disco lights...I just got my car back Weds. from the dealership and they found nothing wrong (of course). Their only explanation was that my battery was tilted and practically laying on its side! It was in turn rubbing against the fly-wheel. I would like to think this is what caused the blinking but because so many other people are having this problem I doubt everyone's batteries are lying on their sides...
AND then my husband went to get in the car and low and behold he couldn't get the key in - the tumbler had "fell" so luckily someone tapped on it and it fell back into place but still, it's like, what's next?-Jessica :sick:
Help!!!!!!!
Help!!!!!!!
any ideas?
Now the doors won't lock with any of the power door lock buttons or the remote key fob. Last night I pulled this same fuse again and this worked for 1 trip to the grocery store and back. When I shut off the car, same problem.
I suspect a failing BCM. Any other suggestions?
Is replacing the BCM something an average person with some mechanical ability but not much patience (or time) can do?
I haven't had to break into console area (where BCM is located) on mine for anything yet so I don't know how difficult it is.
Where are the BCM connections that might need cleaning located?
I can't remember if the battery is OE or not but will check tonight. I did disconnect / reconnect the positive cable to the battery a few nights ago (before I learned about fuse 28 in this forum). It seemed tight and corrosion free at that time. Also checked fuse seating on other fuses in the passenger compartment fuse center, all satisfactory.
Speaking of fuses, is there another one (in the engine compartment fuse center) that provides a signal/ power to the BCM?
I note that one owner mentioned moisture (lots) on the floorboard under the carpet on driver's side and that drying this area out and the connections to the box that's under this seat seemed to help. I haven't noticed any moisture, but I haven't looked and, according to this owner, it would not be visible without lifting the carpet under the seat.
Any thoughts on this troubleshooting path?
Thanks again.
Thanks Again. :shades: