Ok, I've tried to find an answer to this one, but no one has one for me. My service engine light comes on and stays on(not flashing). I have taken it to many places who all say that the code that comes up is for the gas tank something about vapors or something. I was told to get a new gas cap. They all have turned the light out. I got a new gas cap (two different ones) and the light comes on again. Nobody can tell me why it keeps coming back on after its turned off.
The code is for evaporative emmsions system (think thats what it is called), and usually it is a loose/mis-aligned/bad sealing fuel cap, but a leak anywhere in system can cause light (and code) to come on. (3 clicks tight is good). In some system overfilling fuel tank can cause troubles also, and I wouldn't be surprised if a leak in fuel tank might lead to problem. I've had it come on a couple times when the tether got stuck under cap when tightning.
Got my aztek back 2 weeks ago... replaced from wheel sensor and connector. Brakes are now work able again... but the noise I believe from the anti-lock system when starting up the car sounds horrible and the traction light came on again when turning a few days ago... I need to get rid of this car quick.
Thanks for replying. The mechanics have found no leaks and all have tightend the gas caps. None could find the problem. So could there be another problem?
There almost always can be another problem . There are lines that go to canister in engine compartment that possibly could have a leak. One other thing I thought of and sorta confirmed is there is at least one connection the the EVAP system that goes through the pass-through connector C305, This connector is known to have some issues. on some vehicles either water intrusion that causes corrosion or spread female connectors that cause bad (loose) connections. The C305 is located behind the drivers seat (under the carpet) and goes from inside cabin to underneath vehicle. If your not dealing with GM dealer your mechanic should be able to find references to this via a google search on 'gm c305 connector' on the net.
I have a 2001 aztec with over 200,000 miles on it so when reading some of these post I truly feel lucky. However, about 2 months ago the car over heated (dex-cool) on my way home from work. I was able to get it home it just took several hrs. Over the following weekend I drained the coolant and ran the cleaner thru the system. I then refilled with a non dex-cool long life antifreeze. The car ran fine for about a month and then it started to over heat again. It did not go into the red but it was hot. I took it into the dealer and everyone can guess what they told me. Yep the intake manifold is leaking - 1000.00 for that and the engine is also misfiring so new plugs and wires 350.00 (original) which again is not to bad for a car with 200,000 plus miles on it. Now my problem is that I do not have the money to get this work done so I would like to do it myself to save some money. Could someone point me in a direction where I can get procedures and information in a step by step approach? I got one of the online manuals from eAutoRepair and this is full of information but it does not give the step by step detail that I think I need before starting this project. Please advise.
I have a 2001 aztec with over 200,000 miles on it so when reading some of these post I truly feel lucky. However, about 2 months ago the car over heated (dex-cool) on my way home from work. I was able to get it home it just took several hrs. Over the following weekend I drained the coolant and ran the cleaner thru the system. I then refilled with a non dex-cool long life antifreeze. The car ran fine for about a month and then it started to over heat again. It did not go into the red but it was hot. I took it into the dealer and everyone can guess what they told me. Yep the intake manifold is leaking - 1000.00 for that and the engine is also misfiring so new plugs and wires 350.00 (original) which again is not to bad for a car with 200,000 plus miles on it. Now my problem is that I do not have the money to get this work done so I would like to do it myself to save some money. Could someone point me in a direction where I can get procedures and information in a step by step approach? I got one of the online manuals from eAutoRepair and this is full of information but it does not give the step by step detail that I think I need before starting this project. Please advise.
Bought a 2004 Aztec in 2005 (AWD) with 16,000 miles and now having 78,000. Things are going whacky. I can't get the keys out of the ignition most of the time. Meaning if I go anywhere I have to leave the key in the ignition. Please steal it!! My gas guage needle is crazy either registering no gas when I know it's full or so full it's stuck on the temperature guage side. I never know how much gas I've got unless I've just filled it. I can't run the heater in the winter 'cause the check engine light comes on and the techie code says it's running too cold (temp guage needle is at the cold mark). I can put up with little things like repairing brakes often, going through tires, etc but those other 3 things are driving me crazy. So is this where a BCM comes in (whatever that thing is) or is it entirely something else?
I don't know if that could be the BCM, but here's something you could try that might tell you its related. If you pull the fuse #28(I believe) in the fuse box under the hood, and leave it out for 30 seconds, then plug it back in and start the car and see if the same things continue. This resets the BCM. On my car that would cure it for a while which made me believe it was the BCM that was the culprit.
For the cold running engine it is likely the thermostat is stuck open. Inexspensive part but not easy to get to to replace. The usual first thing that would get replaced for the gas guage problem for any vehicle is the sending unit in fuel tank, but in the case of the Tek, it may be problem with C305 connector. The problem with key getting stick may be issue with lock cylinder itself or Brake Transaxle Shift interlock.
Thanks ray80 for responding to my questions. Being a female I don't know much about vehicles so I have to ask what and where is the C305 connector? As for the lock cylinder or brake transaxle shift interlock could u please explain further? Does any of this have anything to do with a fuse of some sort or a connector at the computer? The key isn't turning all the way to off so the steering wheel isn't locking and the car isn't getting turned off all the way. Sorry for so many questions but I'd like to know what I'm talking about when I approach a mechanic as I've been taken before. Thank you heaps.
The C305 connector is a large plug in connector that has a bunch of wires that handle many electrical things toward the rear of vehicle. It is behind the drivers seat (under the carpet) and one side is in the cabin, the other underneath (outside). The lock cylinder is what the key goes into and potentialy could get sticky and not turn. There is also an interface with the BTSI which is a safety thing that ensures the vehicle is not in gear when it is started (also prevents removing key when in gear). The BTSI itself is in the shift console area and could be faulty or may have short/ corrosion in wiring. There is a way to remove the key via a little plug under the steering colum I beleive. the plug can be removed and something small inserted that will push a button that allows removal ( I haven't done that so I don't know exactly how to accomplish it)
I had a little BCM related issue last week when visiting NC (and heading back to CT). We were kind of on the outside edge of the coastal storm that was being talked about and when we got in vehicle to start the long ride home my wife made mention of a little water dripping inside the cabin (darn sunroof again). As soon as I started it the security light/ svs light were blinking alternately as well as radio being locked and power window switchs not working. As I haven't had any real trouble in the area before I figured it was due to excess moisture (or liquid water) had found its way where it shouldn't have. I just turned the heater on and removed both side panels on shifter console and drove the 90 miles or so to VA before stopping and shutting it off. I restarted it and ALL the problems were gone and drove the remaining 800 miles or so (the way I went) home without any further issues. Cheap fix (for now anyway)
So my wife is driving to work this morning and all of the sudden the tek just stops running. I go to pick her up and check it out and it will turn over and it seemed to run for a second VERY rough and then shut down. everything seem connected under the hood and was running great before this. It has 64000 on it. With out a scan tool it's kinda tought to figure out but right now I'm thinking that it may be the cam or crank sensor. Any thoughts?
Tough to tell, could be a lot of things. I have seen a few issues recently involveing the C305 connector and its connection to fuel pump (just a thought)
I'll check for spark later.This thing is starting to piss me off. I've owned for a little under 2 years now and I've replaced both front wheel bearings, Idler pully, the cd player just stopped working, and now this. I'm pondering selling this thing now. Just so I know, where is the c305 connector just so I can check that too?
The C305 connector is to the rear of drivers seat under the carpet. it goes from inside the cabin to underneath (outside) the vehicle (might be easiest to see its location from under the vehicle).
My 2003 Aztek (72K miles) started overheating today. Noticed a small puddle on the driver side, close to the firewall. Saw the leak was coming from the thermostat area. I slowly worked my way to where I could just barely get to the 2 bolts on the thermostat housing. Remove and replace (difficult with no room). Ran it for a few minutes and it was still overheating. Noticed a leak coming from a 2" long hose under the throttle body. Remove and replace, overheating problem is now gone. Here is a photo of the hose I replaced.
My wifes car has overheated once and gets hot when sitting still and the heater doesn't work. The heat comes on for a while but then just shuts off. It comes on when the car cools down. I am guessing that this is the therastat.
I am going to replace it tonight. Any help would be great. I seen that you said that I only have to remove the heat shield. So nothing about the air cleaner assembly?
Well I changed the thermostat and still have the same problem. The car still wants to get hot and occasionally overheat when idling in a drive through or whil sitting in traffic. I know that the car has a intake leak so I was wondering if this could be the cause. Tonight I will get a temp. sensor to put into the car to see if this helps. Please let me know if you have any ideas.
If anyone wants any help on changing the thermostat just email me at Mrenken@juno.com. Its actually pretty easy.
Sounds like a good topic for a CarSpace Guide. And it'd save people from frustration five years from now when they try to contact you and your email address has changed.
Please send me the instructions for replacing the BCM. We replaced the intake manifold gasket and still the temperature gauge is fluctuating wildly. It shows within 1 mile that we are overheating. Any suggestions?
A few months ago, I heard a 'ping' come from my drivers side door. The window was in the down position at the time. Later, when I closed it, I noticed that it didn't close as smoothly as it did in the past and there was a clicking noise when the window was about half closed.
I figured I was going to have to look at it, but before I got a chance, the window completely stopped working. It was half way down while I was in the process of going through a drive through for breakfast. Lucky for me, it was not raining. I was able to manually slide the window up into the closed position, but it no longer goes down. I do hear noise from inside the door when I toggle the window control.
So I am looking for advice and instruction before I start pulling apart my door tonight to see what broke. Instruction on panel removal and what to keep an eye open for would be appreciated.
For the first 48,000 miles I have had no problems. Never had a single issue. Then when it hit fifty, I heard this strange noise that would kick on and off under the driver seat. The air pump that elevates or lowers the Aztek went out. That was $700 to replace. The brakes went bad too but after 50,000 hit as well. No complaints there. The latest thing is that it makes a loud noise when I accelerate and that noise gets even louder when the car's steering wheel is turned far to the right or left on curves. We just got it back from the repair shop. Does anyone know what the issue could be?
I have 2001 Aztek and try to replace my oil pan due to oil leak, but I would like to find repair manual before start, but I have been having such a hard time finding a repair manual for my aztek. Is there anyone who can get any info about how to replace oil pan?????
I have a new in the box tent kit (with out air mattress). We traded in my wifes Aztek and just realized we have the tent kit still in the box, unopened and never used.
Let me know if you are interested in buying it or trading something for it.
We aren't set up for buying and selling in the forums. Please mark your email address "public" in your profile or set up your CarSpace email so people can reach you. Thanks.
:sick: :sick: i am really lost with my 2002 aztec. i had all sorts of lights on, my abs light was on my check engine light was on, my service vehicle light was on and one day i went to start it and it said locked. the next day it would not open with the remote key and would not let go of my ignition key. can someone help me please. i have 188,000 miles on it. i don't know what to do. scared to have it taking to the dealer. have put alot of money in it already. i have replaced the brake sensors twice and had the axcile rebuilt. it does leak from the sun roof. Please help.
Nice combination of troubles you have, all of which could be BCM related (though it may not be BCM itself. As jpm suggested it may be battery if its still the original (electronics can be very sensitive to flucuations in voltage). The only times I've had the key get locked were do to bad cable connection to battery (would try to start it, hear a click then key would lock). The cable connection to underhood fuse box could be suspect also. It appears you saw my post with the leaky sunroof and how I fixed it by running heater on high (directing to floor) with the 2 covers on either side of console removed (Problem has yet to return)
thank everyone so much. i don't know much about cars. i will get my dad to come by and give me a charge. i think it is the original battery. This has been a good help. thank you sooo much.
please i need help!!!!!!!my front bearings are shot i bought my aztek in 2/07 used.will this recall still apply to me?how do i go about getting the process start?
I am working on a Pontiac Aztek 2001 that has a Overheating problem. I replaced the thermostat and the water pump and flushed the radiator. The heater dose not blow hot air after reaching normal operating temperature. Any ideas?
I'm sure it's some sort of sensor for the anti-lock brakes. I have the same problem. The anti-locks try to kick in even on dry pavement, I think the sensors error out and the anti-lock light on the dash comes on. The grinding I believe is the anti-locks trying to kick in, I get the problem only an lower speeds and left or right turns. I dont believe it is the BCM since I had to have that replaced not long ago and I'm no longer having the issues pertaining to that, the dealer said my Aztek was posessed!
ok what we have is a 2001 Aztek, we was driven along and the service the vehicle light came on and the temp gauge went down past cold,and the rad fans came on,thier is still good head inside the caben,the rad hoses are not so hot you can't touch them,thier is good flow,no over heating,but both rad fan's do come on and stay on all the timeuntil you shut the ing off then just the low seep fan stays on for a short time then good off any help would be welcomed thank you!!
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Jim
Jim
Joe
http://www.carspace.com/guides/Pontiac-Aztek-BCM-removal-and-installation
Thank you for the Help
This is a 2001aztek model.
I am going to replace it tonight. Any help would be great. I seen that you said that I only have to remove the heat shield. So nothing about the air cleaner assembly?
If anyone wants any help on changing the thermostat just email me at Mrenken@juno.com. Its actually pretty easy.
I figured I was going to have to look at it, but before I got a chance, the window completely stopped working. It was half way down while I was in the process of going through a drive through for breakfast. Lucky for me, it was not raining. I was able to manually slide the window up into the closed position, but it no longer goes down. I do hear noise from inside the door when I toggle the window control.
So I am looking for advice and instruction before I start pulling apart my door tonight to see what broke. Instruction on panel removal and what to keep an eye open for would be appreciated.
2004 Aztek
Let me know if you are interested in buying it or trading something for it.
Take care,
Rick.
Thanks!
If it does, then we can go a little further.
Overheating problem.
I replaced the thermostat and the water pump and flushed the radiator. The heater dose not blow hot air after reaching normal operating temperature.
Any ideas?
Thanks RDAllison
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