hi there, we have had this aztek for about 3 years, admittedly it has ran perfect till this week, this is my wifes car, a couple days ago i used it to go to the store, while going there i noticed the transmission did not shift into o/d it was taching about 3 grand at 65mph. which isnt bad but it normally does about 2300rpm. there was no light or indicator that something was wrong just that i noticed it was not going into o/d. i checked to make sure it was not the actuall shifter and it wasn't. today i am changing the transmission fluid and filter, hoping this fixes my problem. the azteck has 79,000 miles on it right now. it has never been driven hard or used for pulling heavy loads. it does have the extra transmission cooler unit to keep the fluid cooler. if the fluid doesnt fix the problem what would be the next step? i would prefer to try and fix this myself but if it require new clutches or such it will have to go and get rebuilt at a shop. :sick:
I have a 2001 Aztec. Has anyone noticed that the front seats rip in a certain spot because of the metal frame of the seat? I've ruined 3 good pairs of pants getting them caught on the frame and now the seat material has a hole in it. I've filed down the sharp edge that protrudes from the seat and use a seat cover, but I don't think GM is going to cover this as a problem. And... does anyone know where I can get accessories for my 2001 Aztec?
I can't believe I never found this site, I have a 2001 Aztek GT I purchased in 2003 and now have 104,000 miles, which is high but I drive a lot. I now have intake manifold gasket that needs fixed, and burned out lights in the gear shift and driver side temp control, are these easy to replace?, I called the dealer, an of course they want to check the wiring etc etc etc, $$$$ i can fix a bulb if that is the issue. Thanks
The light for shifter area is fairly easy to replace, I believe its a #194 bulb (not sure though): There is a clip on the back of the gear shift knob.Pry that off and remove the handle.Remove your cup holder.Under the lower one is a screw and you remove that.Lift off the cover.the bulb is at the end of a wire and is a little tricky to twist out and replace.Seems an 8 year old with small hande would find it easy.Be careful with that dust cover boot or belt that goes around the shifter.I popped out the red plastic bar indicator and it's lost.I'll fashion another. It's easier to put stuff back with the shift handle removed since you can turn the housing upside down and you can get that dustcover belt back in the track. Be careful of wiring in area and make sure nothing is rubbing on shifter lever when your done. (I shamelessly copied that procedure from elswhere (again)) . The light for HVAC area may be a bit more complicated as it may be designed to be replaced as a bigger unit. I will see if I can find out more on that. EDIT: I checked further and it does appear the backlighting for HVAC controls comes as a unit (not individual bulbs). If your REAL handy you might be able to get into it and solder in a new LED bulb, but you may well have to replace the whole thing. Good luck
I have a 2001 Aztec that has had some problems, over all nothing major, and still running strong at almost 100K miles, in fact this vehical has outperformed any of the nissans I have ever owned. I pull a boat with the vehicle and it is time to perform a transmission fluid change on it before this years boating season. Does anyone know how to locate the drain on the FWD model? In the past I always had this done, but am tired of throwing that much extyra money at something I can do myself. Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
I have a 2002 Aztek purchased brand new in 2001 or 2002 and absolutely love it but am now having problems. Last summer at 45000 mi. I had no compression it #3 cylinder and they did major work... a bolt pulled out and the manifold was loose. Fortunately still under warranty. Now at 60000 mi. no longer under warranty and the same thing has happened to the #1 cylinder. The first maintainence guy said it was prob. a bad casting and we should take it back to the dealership and see if GM would pick up part of the enormous tab. Any suggestions? Anyone heard of this as an Aztek flaw or am I just "lucky"?
I swiped this from elsewhere: From the service manual
1) Remove and reposition the underhood electrical center. 2) Remove the front end sheet metal diagonal brace. 3) Remove the battery ground cable 4) Remove the battery positive cable 5) Remove the battery hold down retainer 6) Remove the battery 7) Remove the battery insulator from the battery.
Another person said they changed theirs by only removing the brace and carefully inching the battery out, barely enough room. Another hint: while out buying battery, also buy bottle of iodine to take care of any scrapes that are likely to occur Good luck
When you reset your oil light you have to turn the ignition to the on position and push the accerator pedal down very quickly or fast 3 times for it to reset. For the won't start if it is the original battery it was probley on its way out to be replaced and if not I would check the battery, and having the oil changer spending time trying to to reset the oil light it might of helped wear down the battery. The newer vehicles are more high tech in electronics,relays and control modulors and require a good strong battery. I hope this will help.
March 01 I took my 2002 Aztek in to get looked at for a whining/howling noise. Two techs. couldn't hear anything so suggested I take one for a drive to ID the noise. I went for a drive with one of them and he heard the noise and said if was the differential because it was really loud at 90 - 100km. $6000 later the differential was replace, and the noise is still there. I waited 2 weeks, in case I was just being over sensitive and my husband even said he heard it, so I knew it wasn't just me. My husband took it in this next time and now they are saying that it is the drive shaft ($3500). We can't afford to replace that 2 weeks after the other expense and were told that we can continue to drive until the drive shaft goes completely. I have 2 relatives who are mechanics for Ford, and both of them think it is actually the wheel bearings. The noise gets quieter and louder relative to the speed, and apparently if it was the drive shaft the noise would be constant regardless of the speed. I'm now questioning whether the differential even needed replacing. Not once did they mention the wheel bearings but reading this forum, it seems to be a common problem. I am by no means a mechanic and it kills me to have to put so much faith into the words of GM mechanic when I don't feel confident I'm not getting hosed. Has anyone else had difficulties with their differential? or drive shaft? :confuse:
I own a 2001 Aztek and for the most part we are pleased.
Problem #1, the tailgate will not open at all, either from the lever inside or the keypad. When you press the keypad you can hear the lock "working" but the tailgate will still not open. I am a good/average mechanic but I don't see a way to access the lock with the tailgate closed?
Problem #2, What is the proper method to reset the "Service Engine Soon" light for this model?
My wife recently had a brake light bulb burn out so I went to the auto parts store to purchase another one. When I attempted to replace the bulb, much to my dismay, I came to the conclusion there must be some sadistic GM engineer somewhere laughing every time he thinks about some one trying to replace a bulb in an Aztek. Really...so why do they have to make replacing a simple bulb so difficult...is there something I'm missing in my effort to do so? From what I can see there are only two screws holding the entire lamp assembly in place. They are located in the gutter/trough that the hatch back seats in when it is in the closed position. I removed both screws only to find minimal play/movement in the assembly. I'm thinking that perhaps there is some hidden tab that the assembly hinges on but I hesitate to pull on it for fear of breaking the entire lens/assembly. Has anyone ever personally replaced a brake lamp on an Aztek? What's the big secret to doing it?
No real secret if you have the owners manual. After you remove the screws, gently rotate assembly outward (toward side) and pull assembly rearward, should come out.
#1 I think I've seen the procedure to get into liftgate mechanism, I'll see if I can find it again.
#2 Do you know wgy SES light is on? If its just loose, corooked, bad seal on gas cap, it should go off by itself after problem is corrected and it comes through a few startup/shutoff cycles. If its something else , some places (such as auto-zone) can scan and perhaps reset it for free.
Thanks Ray for the reply. Any help on the liftgate would be greatly appreciated.
SES light came on when my fuel pump wiring completely burnt up!! A local shop wanted $3000.00 to repair. I bought one at a junkyard, pulled it myself off of the car, repaired and everything went fine. I will try the gas cap fix as I have heard that before.
That sounds about identical to my minivan. I've replaced rear bulbs two or three times now, years apart, and every time it's like starting over. Plus I'm always afraid I'm going to damage the housing because mine takes a bit of horsing around to free it from the car.
Thanks for your input guys...I went back and gave it another try...this time with a great deal more gusto...
The lens assembly did finally come off, but it took quite a bit more than a gentle tug. Fortunately everything is still intact, the lamps are working, but most importantly the wife is happy and doesn't have anything to chirp about.
I haven't had any problems with the differential or drive shaft, but the problem that you are describing sounds exactly like the one I had. It turned out to be the hub bearings. It would sound like a howling or sirens to me. Everytime I increase speed it would get louder and faster sounding and when I decreased speed it was slower and a little quieter. And it would usually start with that routine around 45 m.p.h and up. I think that each time you have an issue with this car, you should definitely get a second opinion, that's has been my experience. I think the GM mechanics misdiagnosed the problem and have totally charged you too much money to not have fixed the problem.
Took me a while to find it, but I think this is procedure for manual release of liftgate: 1. Open the rear doors and remove the rear seats 2. Remove the tailgate inner trim panel by carefully inserting a tool similar to GM's J38778 interior garnish trim remover tool. There is not a great deal of room around the trim panel, so it may be best to start in one corner and carefully work your way around with the tool using the same procedure as with the side door trim panels. You may have to replace some of the plastic retainers if they break. 3. Once the trim panel has been removed, you will see two cables (one for each latch) coming from the center of the tailgate toward the liftglass latches). To release the liftglass, pull the manual release cables on both liftglass to release both latches. (Sorry no picture available) 4. Then you should be able to release the liftglass and drop the tailgate. You should be able to leave that panel off and close the tailgate as you normally would. You can reopen it by pulling on the cables. 5. Reassembly, replace any broken retainers and press the inner tailgate panel on to the tailgate.
You may be able to use putty knife or something simliar in place of 'official' tool, perhaps wrapped with tape to prevent maring pf plastic. You could also try pressing liftgate closed (don't break it) to see if it helps with getting it released (saw one person having 'stuck' gate from no closing it hard eneough) good luck
I have a 2001, bought it three years ago with 52K, now has 95K. I've had some of the same problems mentioned on this forum, two out of four bearing hubs have gone, ac condenser leaked causing short in part of wiring harness for VersaTrak, fuel pressure sensor had to be replaced, rear suspension knuckle bushings wore out. Nothing I consider completely abnormal. Fortunately, I bought a GMPP, which covered me for all major repairs, about to run out at 97K. Scary thought. All in all, very happy with the Aztek.
Just wanted to bring to the attention of those with liftgate problems. There are two rubber, spring-loaded bumpers attached to the underside of the hatch on the sides. They push the liftgate up when the latch is activated, whether it's with the dash switch, key, or fob switch. They can be adjusted by turning them outward to give more tension and force to pop the hatch far enough to release totally from the latch. Mine are adjusted all the way out so I glued a rubber pad to each side on the channels where the bumpers make contact, to act as shims. The liftgate now releases completely in all temperature ranges. BTW, the dealer techs didn't know about adjusting the bumpers.
Does anyone know if the the tent will fit over a Thule bike rack that has been attached to the roof rack? I want to buy the tent for my son but he put a rack with four fork mount bike tracks on the roof. How does this tent fit over the existing roof rack? Thanks!
2001 Aztek 47000 miles . I live in Chicago so lately we have been having weather where it is warm during the days but cold at night [40 degrees] So I turned on my defrostand it only blows cold air , heater works But only after the motor is really warmed up like 20 min even in warm[day time tesing it ] weather. temp gauge flucuates as other have stated on different posts. Looking for any input on this type of problem.
Auto Zone can scan for the cause of the SES light but cannot reset it. If the cause is found and repaired, the light should go off after a few driving cycles. After the cause is found and, like my wife says, the light is annoying, an unofficial way of resetting it is to pull the positive connection off of the battery for a minute and reinstalling it. You will lose your radio presets in the process, however.
My wife's 2001 Aztek recently rolled past 200K. None of the three cigarette lighters are working. Everything else is working and I couldn't find a dedicated fuse for the cigarette lighter in the Owner's Manual, so I suspect it's not a fuse. Or maybe it is. Thanks in advance for any help.
In 4 days, I will "celebrate" (term used loosely!!) one year ownership of 2001 Aztek. Has been in the shop twice for AC work (still not running), check engine light stays on (mechanic could not sufficiently explain), now it is sitting as it will not start. I am assuming the latest issue is battery related but do not have funds to take to the shop. As a divorced mom of 17 y/o daughter, I told dealer I needed something reliable and low maintenance and this is what I got!!!! Frankly, this website has scared me to death due to all of the negative e-mails regarding this vehicle. I want to learn basic vehicle repair as does my daughter, but I think I might have been hoodwinked (if that is a word!!) I can't afford a tow to auto parts store for them to check battery. May have to take it out and deliver for testing that way. However, I just found a message discussing the difficulty of battery removal and replacement. Can anyone advise...cut my losses or give it a shot??????? We would hate to give up since it took us quite some time to get to know and love our ugly, I mean unique baby!!!!!!!!!!!!
we have had nothing but brake problems with this car all after the warranty expired. all hubs have been pulled. all pads, rotors replaced. we finally went to an independent mechanic and the drive shaft is worn. all this at 55,000. there has been ongoing problems with the passenger side rear wheel. Brakes and growling noises. anyone else?
Hi all! I bought a royal blue used 2003 Aztek from a dealer today; it's totally sweet! Have to take it back tomorrow afternoon for some work (the rubber seal at the top of the windshield is lifted and flaps when you go over 35 mph). Big concern though is this: there's no cooler/console. Dealer said it was stolen, and that Pontiac didn't make them anymore, and suggested I check out Ebay (couldn't find anything on that site). Does anyone know where I can buy one? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Rob
Yeah, mine was stolen too when I bought my 2001 Aztek used. I just bought one on Ebay for mine. Theres usually at least one available. All depends on how much you want to spend on one.
Thanx for the link , However it was of no use in reference to my Aztek . My problem is a flucuating temp, in addition to the defrost not working and the heat working intermittantly . A/C if fine .
I was hoping fellow Aztek owners might chime in with some AZTEK insight . Are you out there RAY 80??
But that doesn't seem to have anything to do with the heat/defrost not working all the time. If this is a cabin temp problem check out the Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars discussion while waiting for responses in here.
Sorry to be confused; I usually think of the thermostat relating to the radiator/cooling system.
Hhmm certainly could be thermostat, its got some age on it now. Could be something else also. How is the coolant level, both in overflow tank and radiater (I think you can check radiater level anyway), and have you been adding any coolant lately? Would I be correct in that temp gauge (once warmed up) goes from normal to a bit hotter then you typicly see then down again, and heat doing same thing, warm one minute , cool the next? Yours being a 2001, I might wonder about lower intake manifold gasket if your losing coolant. Do you know if its been replaced, and if so, with newer part?
Hello I'm looking for feedback on this. I'm looking at purchasing a used 2001 Aztek, 124k. Supposedly in great shape. My father in law is a mechanic, and is advising us to stay away from this vehicle, and keeps telling us all the problems with Azteks. Now as drivers of Azteks, would you recommend this vehicle? or should I steer clear of Aztek's all together? Thanks.
RAY 80> good to here from you ! Yes you are correct temp gauge [once warmed up ] goes from normal to a bit hotter than you typically would see then down again.heat doing the same warm then cool . I will have the lower intake manifold checked out . do not know if that gasket has been replaced preivous to my ownership. I do not appear to be losing coolant but I havent checked it in a while . I get back to after this 3day weekend THANX
rob_azteka : Have you checked your local car junk yards? I have bought a few parts for my Aztec locally, maybe try calling one around your town. If anything, maybe when they get a vehicle in, they can hold one for you.
For the most part, my Aztec has been a good car. I currently have 72K on my 2002, and there are a few problems I want to fix, and looking for anyone's help.
1. Yesterday, my gas gauge stopped working. About 30 mins after filling tank full, my light came on and registered that I had no gas, about 15 mins later, the light went off, and gauge seemed to work. I read on other posts it's something to do with the "BCM"... What the heck is the BCM?
2. The heat/air control set at the #1 barely works, but the #2 and the rest work fine. Problem is that you get blasted with air and can't regulate the flow without turning it up and down the whole time you drive.
3. A/C doesn't seem to be cold enough. 2 years ago, AC went out, GM fixed the compressor, but last year it started acting up and doesn't seem to be cold enough.
4. When the A/C began acting up, so did my air compressor. It doesn't work now. I can hear it running, but it won't inflate anything.... Are these two issues related?
5. The light for half of my HVAC controls and my AC button doesn't work unless I keep thrusting my heat/cool selector (middle dial) towards the HVAC controls (right dial), then the lights will come on. Takes multple attempts.
Of course, the car is out of warranty. So, any help or suggestions anyone can give is GREATLY appreciated.
When the car was in warranty, the dealer had to fix: rear latch - 3 times... works fine now air compressor-twice A/C full brake job
Out of warranty fixes I had fixed: wheel bearings replace driver side window control switch
Overall, the car has not given me much trouble. Just routine maintenance over the years.
If you have any suggestions on my current problems, I'd love to hear from you.
Nice variety of problems you have there. I'll see if I can find some answers somewhere, but for number 2. Have you checked/changed cabin air filter lately (assuming you have one)? If its clogged low fan setting won't work very well. Another possible thing is blower motor resister assembly has some troubles. For number 5. SOunds like short/bad connection. I can't remember exactly, but think there are 2 screws that hold face plate over radio and hvac controls (recessed area underneath on either side), and moving shift lever may allow acess to 'cluster' for hvac. Perhaps just cleaning or ensure those connections are tight will help with that.
From what I am told, there is no cabin filter (I was told about a year ago during an oil change, they couldn't find it, and it's typically located in the engine area).
Friday night, my "service engine soon" light came on and is staying on. In the owners manual, it says that it's an emissions problem and that I would have had malfunctions prior to the light (hence, the gas gauge). I would really like to know if I could fix this myself?
I am going to try the connections cleaning. Thank you sooooo very much.
Hhmm the cabin filter (if there is one) surprising enough is in the cabin, there is a skinny door in the back of the glove box that allows access to where it is ( I think there is a door and another cover). SES light is quite often just a loose/mis-aligned gas cap or perhaps bad seal on cap. Try checkin that (and make sure retaining strap isn't caught underneath). It will take several start/shut off cyles to get light to go out if you find and correct trouble with cap.
I have just started having these same issues. When the car is first started the instrument panel goes bezerk. After about 20-30 seconds it stops and I get one of 2 things: 1- everything is normal or 2- the stereo reads locked and the service engine light is on. I have already tried the 30 sec reset to see if that helps, but did not. I read on another post that it is fairly easy to install a new one? I am willing to do it, but am having a hard time finding a part number and one other thing that might be important-- where is it? Thanks.
I was wondering if anyone's ever gotten a replacement key from the street key Ebay store; went to a local hardware store and had one made (it unlocks the door but won't start the car because there's no trasponder in the key). The street key place on Ebay says it has the transponder in it, and that you can take it someplace to get it programmed.... Has anyone done that??
For the change oil light, if you have the drivers info center, just hit the mode button until oil life message shows up, then hold set button till it goes chimes and goes to 100%. If you don't have info center, its a bit more complicated and I'll have to find procedure again. For hot engine, perahps they didn't get all the air out of cooling system when they fixed head gasket, in any case I would take it right back to them.
ok I fixed the change oil light. I had to manually do it. As far as the air in the coolling system the repair shop already did that. What should I do now because the service engine soon light is still on an d it overheats no matter if it's cold or hot outside.
Service engine light could be a number of different things, perhaps something as simple as loose/mis-aligned gas cap. Was the hot light coming on prior the head gasket change (other then right before)? Does the temp gauge needle run in red also when light comes on?
Ok I have read several of the posts on liftgate problems and couldn't find mine. When I hit the botton or use my key the locks turn but do not totally disengage. I can't close my glass panel because the bottom of the gate thinks it is already closed. I can't get it to open completely either, I tried turning the knobs on either side, any other suggestions. I am leaving for a dog show in the morning and can't load my dogs with my gate up!!! Just started this afternoon. BTW when I pull the handle nothing happens.
That I think is a tough one, there is a procedure I think to get it un-stick, but its complicated I believe. Can you push on tailgate (like you were closing it, only a bit harder) and try to see if that gets it working again.
Comments
From the service manual
1) Remove and reposition the underhood electrical center.
2) Remove the front end sheet metal diagonal brace.
3) Remove the battery ground cable
4) Remove the battery positive cable
5) Remove the battery hold down retainer
6) Remove the battery
7) Remove the battery insulator from the battery.
Another person said they changed theirs by only removing the brace and carefully inching the battery out, barely enough room. Another hint: while out buying battery, also buy bottle of iodine to take care of any scrapes that are likely to occur
I own a 2001 Aztek and for the most part we are pleased.
Problem #1, the tailgate will not open at all, either from the lever inside or the keypad. When you press the keypad you can hear the lock "working" but the tailgate will still not open. I am a good/average mechanic but I don't see a way to access the lock with the tailgate closed?
Problem #2, What is the proper method to reset the "Service Engine Soon" light for this model?
Thank you in advance
Joel
Really...so why do they have to make replacing a simple bulb so difficult...is there something I'm missing in my effort to do so?
From what I can see there are only two screws holding the entire lamp assembly in place. They are located in the gutter/trough that the hatch back seats in when it is in the closed position. I removed both screws only to find minimal play/movement in the assembly. I'm thinking that perhaps there is some hidden tab that the assembly hinges on but I hesitate to pull on it for fear of breaking the entire lens/assembly.
Has anyone ever personally replaced a brake lamp on an Aztek? What's the big secret to doing it?
#2 Do you know wgy SES light is on? If its just loose, corooked, bad seal on gas cap, it should go off by itself after problem is corrected and it comes through a few startup/shutoff cycles. If its something else , some places (such as auto-zone) can scan and perhaps reset it for free.
SES light came on when my fuel pump wiring completely burnt up!! A local shop wanted $3000.00 to repair. I bought one at a junkyard, pulled it myself off of the car, repaired and everything went fine. I will try the gas cap fix as I have heard that before.
Steve, Host
The lens assembly did finally come off, but it took quite a bit more than a gentle tug. Fortunately everything is still intact, the lamps are working, but most importantly the wife is happy and doesn't have anything to chirp about.
Thanks Again.
1. Open the rear doors and remove the rear seats
2. Remove the tailgate inner trim panel by carefully inserting a tool similar to GM's J38778 interior garnish trim remover tool. There is not a great deal of room around the trim panel, so it may be best to start in one corner and carefully work your way around with the tool using the same procedure as with the side door trim panels. You may have to replace some of the plastic retainers if they break.
3. Once the trim panel has been removed, you will see two cables (one for each latch) coming from the center of the tailgate toward the liftglass latches). To release the liftglass, pull the manual release cables on both liftglass to release both latches. (Sorry no picture available)
4. Then you should be able to release the liftglass and drop the tailgate. You should be able to leave that panel off and close the tailgate as you normally would. You can reopen it by pulling on the cables.
5. Reassembly, replace any broken retainers and press the inner tailgate panel on to the tailgate.
You may be able to use putty knife or something simliar in place of 'official' tool, perhaps wrapped with tape to prevent maring pf plastic. You could also try pressing liftgate closed (don't break it) to see if it helps with getting it released (saw one person having 'stuck' gate from no closing it hard eneough) good luck
Just wanted to bring to the attention of those with liftgate problems. There are two rubber, spring-loaded bumpers attached to the underside of the hatch on the sides. They push the liftgate up when the latch is activated, whether it's with the dash switch, key, or fob switch. They can be adjusted by turning them outward to give more tension and force to pop the hatch far enough to release totally from the latch. Mine are adjusted all the way out so I glued a rubber pad to each side on the channels where the bumpers make contact, to act as shims. The liftgate now releases completely in all temperature ranges. BTW, the dealer techs didn't know about adjusting the bumpers.
Thanks!
Rob
2001 AZTEK :confuse:
Steve, Host
I was hoping fellow Aztek owners might chime in with some AZTEK insight . Are you out there RAY 80??
There's this thread over in a Chevy discussion for coolant:
airmn65, "Chevrolet Cobalt" #1686, 18 May 2006 3:15 pm
But that doesn't seem to have anything to do with the heat/defrost not working all the time. If this is a cabin temp problem check out the Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars discussion while waiting for responses in here.
Sorry to be confused; I usually think of the thermostat relating to the radiator/cooling system.
Steve, Host
I'm looking for feedback on this. I'm looking at purchasing a used 2001 Aztek, 124k. Supposedly in great shape. My father in law is a mechanic, and is advising us to stay away from this vehicle, and keeps telling us all the problems with Azteks. Now as drivers of Azteks, would you recommend this vehicle? or should I steer clear of Aztek's all together?
Thanks.
THANX
Have you checked your local car junk yards? I have bought a few parts for my Aztec locally, maybe try calling one around your town. If anything, maybe when they get a vehicle in, they can hold one for you.
Hope that helps.
1. Yesterday, my gas gauge stopped working. About 30 mins after filling tank full, my light came on and registered that I had no gas, about 15 mins later, the light went off, and gauge seemed to work. I read on other posts it's something to do with the "BCM"... What the heck is the BCM?
2. The heat/air control set at the #1 barely works, but the #2 and the rest work fine. Problem is that you get blasted with air and can't regulate the flow without turning it up and down the whole time you drive.
3. A/C doesn't seem to be cold enough. 2 years ago, AC went out, GM fixed the compressor, but last year it started acting up and doesn't seem to be cold enough.
4. When the A/C began acting up, so did my air compressor. It doesn't work now. I can hear it running, but it won't inflate anything.... Are these two issues related?
5. The light for half of my HVAC controls and my AC button doesn't work unless I keep thrusting my heat/cool selector (middle dial) towards the HVAC controls (right dial), then the lights will come on. Takes multple attempts.
Of course, the car is out of warranty. So, any help or suggestions anyone can give is GREATLY appreciated.
When the car was in warranty, the dealer had to fix:
rear latch - 3 times... works fine now
air compressor-twice
A/C
full brake job
Out of warranty fixes I had fixed:
wheel bearings
replace driver side window control switch
Overall, the car has not given me much trouble. Just routine maintenance over the years.
If you have any suggestions on my current problems, I'd love to hear from you.
Thanks !!!
From what I am told, there is no cabin filter (I was told about a year ago during an oil change, they couldn't find it, and it's typically located in the engine area).
Friday night, my "service engine soon" light came on and is staying on. In the owners manual, it says that it's an emissions problem and that I would have had malfunctions prior to the light (hence, the gas gauge). I would really like to know if I could fix this myself?
I am going to try the connections cleaning. Thank you sooooo very much.
Last week I had the oil changed, but when I drive the change oil light comes on. Also, the repair shop changed my head gasket for $700 last week.
My 2nd problem is when I drive the hot engine light comes on. The antifreeze container holder fluid is mild & not hot.
Does the repair shop have to change my thermostat or reset the computer or what else could the problem be?
Thank you in advance!
Let me know, thanks!
tidester, host