Did you recently rush to buy a new vehicle before tariff-related price hikes? A reporter is looking to speak with shoppers who felt pressure to act quickly due to expected cost increases; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com for more details by 4/24.
The grinding ar low speeds (with the addition of turns being involved) is usually indicative of fron wheel bearing issue . When they replace the hub/bearing assembly they also are replacing speed sensor (comes as part of assembly) and that may resovle anti-lock problem.
I bought my 2001 Aztek last week. As the dealer pulled it out of his garage the service engine light came on. (He told me it was no big deal, it would just need to be reset...which I told him I would call him if it was something more) Well, I am sure he was laughing for hours after I left...for my 5 hour drive home! I took my car to my mechanic the very next day to go over with a fine tooth comb and to reset the light! It was the evap system light...which had corroded wires and connections...yes the parts were only $25 but the labor cost me $325! AND if that would have only been it, it would have been bad enough...but I have a broken bushing in the rear right side...come to find out you have to replace the WHOLE knuckle which is $300 for the part! Of course, GM couldn't sell the bushing seperate which would only be problably a few dollars!! So I have a quote of $425 to fix that issues! And then I have a upper intake manifold gasket leaking! With a cost of $295 to fix! UGH! Not my idea of great for a car I have owned for a week! My question is I have been reading all of the bad news on these Azteks on here...and I am wondering if I change the gasket if it is better than to have the dex cool changed to another coolant if that would be the best solution?? I am scared at this point as to what to do! If I change the coolant, can anyone tell me what kind to switch to? As to the bushing does anyone know if this is hard to change?? I have a friend who does some mechanic work and said he could look at it....but don't want it to be too over his head...any idea how hard it is or how long it takes average mechanic?? I do love my car and hope once I fix these issues I will have a good car and not a lemon! BUT right now I am feeling pretty sick to my stomach! Oh yeah....and the dealer that sold it...hung up on me and won't even answer his phone when I call...I have also e-mailed him with no response! I am reporting him to the DMV! Unfortunately, I am out of state and won't probably get any responses Oh and I bought plugs for my car also...since it has 120,000 miles on it and probably haven't been changed given its track record I didn't want to take a chance! Are these also difficult to do or get at?? I want to do whatever I can to keep it running as long as I can...and preventative so that hopefully I don't run into some of the other issues on this forum...any suggestions??
Transmission problems :mad: :mad: Can anyone point me in the right direction? It won't shift into overdrive and sometimes at low speeds the trans. seems to slip. Fluid level is good and is red. Any ideas? Thanks, Brian
Transmission problems :mad: :confuse: Can anyone point me in the right direction? It won't shift into overdrive and sometimes at low speeds the trans. seems to slip. Fluid level is good and is red. Any ideas? Thanks, Brian
jbomar - I too have an '04 and had the same thing happen to me this summer with the gas mileage dropping. Mine was worse though - a 33% percent drop!!
I've still been trying to trouble shoot thinking I had a bad tank of gas, changed gas stations, and changed the fuel filter - all with no results. Just curious if you found a solution to your problem.
My father-in-law thinks it might be something with the emissions. I'm looking to take mine in over the holiday when we can do with one car.
I have this same issue...bought my 2001 only two weeks ago...and the light comes on during the day and goes of around 4 pm every night! When I called the GM dealer they said they would have to look at it at a tune of $80 an hour. Did you have any luck figuring out what it was?? I am trying to save on costly repairs...since I have already put $800 in it in the last two weeks! And need to put at least $800 more come to find out...besides this problem. Ugh.
As per my suggestion to lostcause245, check of headlights found high beam was out (low power high beams are used for DRL's) and the reason it goes off as the day passes to night is regular headlights come on.
We have a well-used 02 Aztek with 108,000 on it. Front wheel bearings and BCM around 80k, otherwise trouble free... Now the pump is running rough and excessively. I know the pump probably needs replacement, but there is also a second part near the pump with a large (1"?) hose that used to be attached to it- the nipple has corroded and broken off. Any idea what the second part might be, and a good place to get the entire pump assy. for a reasonable price?
Also, the amp for the rear speakers is not longer working. There's sound, just not the sweet amplified premium sound that was once there. It seems it stopped working around the same time as the BCM install- is the amp something that needed to be programmed into the BCM?
I need some help! I have a 2003 pontiac aztek with 75k miles on it. the first two years were great. since then, it eats batteries.
about 3 years ago, it needed a jump. I tried jumping it by attaching the cables to the fuse box jump connection (I don't know what that's called properly) and grounding the other cable. it made a loud pop when I tried to start it.
so I called AAA and they came out and tested it and I bought the AAA battery. since then, it has had 6 batteries installed. yes, you read that right, 6 batteries. approximately every 6 months, it dies (without notice what-so-ever, but always, thank God, at home) and when tested, the battery shows a dead cell. AAA then replaces it under warranty.
so, along the way, I had the alternator replaced. no change. then I posted to this forum, and it was recommended that I change the Body Control Module. did that, too. one big change since that happened, however. now the battery no longer shows a dead cell, but just that it needs a jump. so it now takes a jump, where it didn't before. better, yes. but now it needs a jump ONCE A WEEK. the BCM was replaced about 3 months ago and did fine, but in the last three weeks, it's needed a jump each week.
what on earth is going on here? we actually really like this car, but this is maddening. what will solve this? please, help!
I have a 2003 Pontiac Aztek and I have an interior window fogging problem.I have been keeping the defrost on full blast all the time to the point where I am cooking - it doesn't help. The problem is severe - visibility is severely limited and we have to keep scraping the window on the inside as we drive. This never happened in the previous 5 winters, I live in Chicago. any ideas? the moisture I assume is not coming out of the air when it is being taken in by the climate control system. Is there a condenser that eliminates moisture when the system is on defrost? has anyone else had this problem? please feel free to email or post! this is urgent as the winter season has just begun!
I have not received an answer to my problem on this site, but I have some info that may help. I replaced the battery and so far no problems. Note: before I replaced the BCM I was replacing a battery once a year. Every time, the battery tested bad. With this latest issue the dealer tested the bcm and said the battery was weak. I went to the parts store and they claimed the battery tested good. I purchased a new battery anyway. So far I have had no problems. (two months) My son-in-law is my mechanic (Has all the cert.and experience 20 years) and suggested measuring the current draw on the battery when the car is sleeping. Check the charging voltage. Check the wiring for corrosion under the air cleaner and inside the console. Check for shorting. Another interesting note: there are two different BCM part numbers in use for the same vehicle. There is a host of postings on this site you should read about electrical problems with Azteks. I will let you know if my battery fails in the next few months. If I learn any new info I will post it. Good luck BCM #15235418, #15143352
Did any one ever find the answer to the overheating while defrost is on issue? My 01 aztek started doing this last week and I'm afraid it's going to end up being my heater core!!
You might want to see if you heater core is leaking. If it is, it could be vapor from the anti-freeze leaking. It's the only thing I can think of at this time. Murf
greetings i am the not so proud owner of an 02 tec and i am currently experincing the following problems: after i have started the vehicle and depress the transmission selector button the trans doesnt like to shift from park without pressing the override switch on the side of the housing a new problem that has started occuring is that occasionly when i turn the vehicle off the key doesnt turn want to turn past the accesiories position. i originaly thought it was the neutral safety switch located on the top of the transaxle but after unplugging the pigtails from it the vehicle wouldnt even start and ive noticed a sound like a solenoid engauging coming from below the shifter. i have un plugged a wireharness pigtail that connects to the bottom of the shifter and after doing that i have noticed no change in the problem or performance of the vehicle and im wondering what this pigtail could go to. oh i forgot to mention this problem only occurs after ive taken my commute to work and im attempting to turn it off.
If it is not heater core leaking (should be able to smell coolant if it is) there is likely just to much moisture in cabin. Perhaps to much snow melt from footwear or maybe there is a leak somewhere (sunroof if equipped is possible). The A/C condensor should be on with either defrost or re-cycle or A/C on and you have have to run it that way (with one of them on) for a few days to dry things out.
The little gizmo with wires in shifter console are is the Brake Transmission Shift Interlock and could be where the trouble is. I believe it interfaces with shifter, brake pedal , and ignition. It may be bad or have connection problem.
Assuming coolant level is ok, I seem to have memory (right or wrong) that both cooling fans should come on when either A/C is on or perhaps defrost. You might be able to check that by driving till normal operating temp is reached, stopping with engine running and popping hood (with heater on, no defrost). Take a look and see if one or both fans are on, then turn defrost on and see if there is any immdiate change (I:E: both fans turn on). I can't think of any other reason why it would overheat only with defrost on.
Thanks for the post. I didn't know there were two parts numbers for the BCM. It's at the dealer now for more diagnostics. It now requires a jump every morning. This is maddening...
I saw your post regarding the thermostat housing and wondered if you could send a photo of it. I'm new to this site and can't figure out where it may have shown up.
I probably just need to replace the thermostat, but would appreciate a view of it if possible. Thanks for any help you can render.
Would this cause hot smell of oil coming from the engine?
if so how do I get on the class action about it? But get this I bought my car at Pontiac dealer in WNY and he sold some [non-permissible content removed] [non-permissible content removed] warranty and that C/o is now bankrupt so I am SOL and the warranty supposed to run thought 2009 o well
I have been having a problem with my Aztek, such as the headlights will not turn off with the auto setting or when you lock the doors. They stay on & I have to shut them off manually. Then I have the problem where I can't get the keys out off the ignition. This happens every once in a while. The mechanic figured out that it is a fuse that blows on the passenger side. It's a 10 amp fuse & I pull it out & change it. The #42 or 43 fuse on the bottom. Now on my latest trip to Florida I blew thru 10 fuses before it would start. Then the the check gages light & the brake light would flash on for a few seconds & go off. If I park on a slight incline or hill the car will blow thru the fuses if I turn it off. The car has to be on a level surface. Is all these problems related to the BCM that I have been reading about?? Also I have 186,000 miles on this car. About reading some of the other forums I have had a major blow out of the ac & everything was replaced on that. I love this car & this is the only time I at a loss for an answer.
Thats an ugly one to try and figure out. The incline thing would really seem to indicate a short somewhere. Do you have a sunroof that may be leaking? Is the big gob of wires exiting the underhood fuse box properly routed and NOT near the accessory belt? How old is the battery?
So I got a flat the other day so I pulled over to put the spare on. The flat was on the passenger front tire. I put the doughnut on and started driving toward home about a half mile away. Half way home the Service traction system lights came on. So I got home and rotated the spare to the back. After that I went to work. about a 1/4 mile after I get going the lights come on again. The process repeats every time I turn off the ignition. Turn on the car, drive a little ways and ding ding ding ding. The sound will not turn off unless I turn the car off and reset it system but it only stays off untill the traction light comes on again. What a PTA. Get a flat, traction system goes crazy. This car is really starting to test my patience.
The outside diameter of the spare is not the same as the other tires. The traction system senses the discrepancy, shuts itself off because it can't work properly, and illuminates the STS light to let you know it is operating the same as the many vehicles that don't have traction control (as well as letting you know something needs fixing)
I own a 2001 Aztec that cuts out while driving. I have had the ignition module A and B replaced and the oil pressure sender replaced. The battery light flickers on and the RPM guage goes crazy. The car still cuts in and out .
This may or may not help. I have an '02 Aztek and I was concerned when winter rolled around and my heater seemed not to work. I took it to the dealership and had them check it out and they came up with nothing after ripping out the whole dash and what not. So they called Pontiac or GM or who ever and they reported to them that the Aztek actually does not blow hot air out of the round ventilation ports on the dashboard. only the floor board and defrost area's.
'This may or may not help. I have an '02 Aztek and I was concerned when winter rolled around and my heater seemed not to work. I took it to the dealership and had them check it out and they came up with nothing after ripping out the whole dash and what not. So they called Pontiac or GM or who ever and they reported to them that the Aztek actually does not blow hot air out of the round ventilation ports on the dashboard. only the floor board and defrost area's. ' Thats an interesting concept. Guess I'll have to take the 2 of mine in because the round vents on mine blow a lot of hot air (kind of like the hot air someone appears to have blown your way).
For a better answer I know of a couple things that may be involved. There was an early TSB that I believe addressed lack of air volume through HVAC and I think involved disabling a blend door, I' ll see if I can find more details on that one. I had a similar problem and my mechanic son-in-law found the problem to be loose or sloppyness in some mechanical parts on the left (drivers side) of HVAC system under dash. He tightened things up (no replacement of any parts) and corrected the problem.
I found the text part of bulletin:
This bulletin is being revised to correct the Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-01-38-013 (Section 01 - HVAC).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a lack of sufficient air flow from the instrument panel vents when the vent mode is selected and the temperature control is at full heat. Others may comment that the volume of hot air flow from the instrument panel vents may seem to be less than the air flow from the floor ducts.
Correction
Disable the temperature sub-damper door, located inside the air conditioning module, using the following procedure:
1. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position and move the HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) temperature control to the full cold position.
2. Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position.
3. Remove the instrument panel closeout/insulator panel.
4. Remove the instrument panel compartment.
Important: The mode door actuator described below may not be found on all vehicles. The actuator removal and replacement instructions are not necessary if this actuator is not present.
5. Locate the mode door actuator on the passenger side of the HVAC module. Disconnect the actuator electrical connector. Remove the two actuator retaining screws and the mode door actuator.
6. Remove the two screws that hold the mode door actuator mounting plate to the HVAC module. Remove the plate, exposing the mode door levers underneath. Refer to the illustration above for the location of the mode door levers.
7. Locate the mode door lever, (1) in the illustration above. Remove the mode door lever by carefully lifting the lever locking tab and simultaneously prying outward at the base of the lever with a flat screwdriver. Be sure to pry as close as possible to the base of the shaft to prevent breakage of the lever.
8. With the mode lever removed, swing the temperature sub-damper door lever (2) fully up. This opens the door fully on the inside of the HVAC module.
9. The sub-damper door may vibrate or fall closed if not secured in place. To ensure that this does not happen, use a plastic tie-strap to ensure that the door is held in place.
10. Loop a tie strap through the channel of the lever. Loop the tie-strap over the upper actuator attachment boss, making sure to also get the strap over the side ribs, as the side ribs are the locating feature for the actuator backing plate. Refer to the illustration above for location of the tie strap.
11. Install the actuator mounting plate on the HVAC module. Make sure the plate is seated against the ribs on the mounting boss.
12. Install the mode door actuator onto the actuator mounting plate.
13. Start the vehicle and check the operation of the HVAC system mode doors and temperature controls.
14. Install the instrument panel compartment.
15. Install the instrument panel insulator/closeout panel.
Thanks for your reply - over the last year we have replaced the AC, the heater core, the thermostat (twice) and the damper - and yet the problem persists. Most recently we had the thermometer and damper replaced and the problem was 75% improved but now it has gotten bad again. It starts out as steam but because of the cold climate we live in it soon frosts up. At times we are scraping the window on the inside while we drive just so we can see. I don't believe it is too much moisture in the cabin. If that were the case everyone where I live would have the same issue cuz we always have a ton of snow from our boots. I live in northern Canada. Apparently the manifold is leaking, our mechanic felt it was not a serious enough issue to replace it. My question is - could it be leaking on the heater and creating steam? Sue
Wow, I read your post and at first I thought I was re-reading a post I had written. We have been having the exact same problems. If you solve the mystery please let me know. We have replaced everything heater/AC related and yet the problem persists. Sue
If the intake manifold gasket(s) were leaking bad enough I suppose some of the moisture could sneak in with fresh air supply, I still think you would smell it though. Also you would notice vapor coming from engine bay after shutting off warm vehicle. When is the last time cabin air filter(s) were changed?
OK, strange deal here. I Bought my Aztek about 1 1/2 years ago. When I bought it, the door lock buttons inside on the doors did not work, neither of them. The dealer told me it was just a relay, and I bought it right after they got it so they didn't have time to fix it. No prob, I figured, the remote fob works, I'll fix it later (got a great deal on the Aztek). Well a few weeks ago the remote broke off the key ring and got lost. I ordered a replacement, but lo and behold the programming process requires the use of the inner door lock buttons! Crap! I delved into the owners manual, and wala! There IS NO RELAY for door locks! Only a fuse, which was in perfect shape. But the remote key fob worked fine, so I know the actuators are not the problem. Why would BOTH door locks, driver & passenger, not work, but have electricity? If there is no relay and the fuse is good, too? I'm a bit lost on this one! Any suggestions?
My battery in my 2002 aztek is now dead. We had to jump it to get it started and I drove it to my husbands work where he could work on it indoors. The issue was it was burning more gas all the way there seemingly faster than my Ford Superduty does. Gas gauge basically dropped like a rock! Could it be low spark from running on the alternator only causing it to burn more gas? :confuse:
Hey Tex...What year is it? Email me direct at billkitt@bellsouth.net. I'll check into it for you. I can also send a schematic if that would help. I haven't really run into many of those on Azteks. It could even be the dreaded BCM.
I have a 01 Aztec. The temp gage started going from half to overheated in less than 2 minutes, with no heat in side. I change the thermistat and flushed the system. This was no help. Car still over heats, than runs ok, than runs hot. The coolant temp light comes on for a short time then the temp gage goes back down. I believe there's is something scewed up with the system of course, but have no idea what. Please help.
BREAKTHROUGH: My mechanic is a 31 year GM Veteran. He couldn't figure out the problem, and checked all the things you have listed as well. He called a guy who GM dealerships would go to to find leaks, and sure enough he discoverd that the entire sunroof leaked and that the water was seeping in and running down the walls of the interior of the car and soaking the carpet and underlayment. This caused the tremendous frosting of the interior especially on really cold days, and steamy windows when it was in the 20's and 30's. The sun roof and all seals have been replaced now. My car was a 2003. Hopefully it will solve the problem. Carpets have been dried out the best possible and portions raised, however unless we totally remove the seats and all of the carpet at once, I fear the problem will continue until summer heat really dries it out.
Ok for the past 5 months every 3 months i had to throw in a bottle of antifreeze. i realize this its self is an issue.. however i had my oil changed nothing in there and no antifreeze lingering on the garage floor so i thought i was fine. Basically i knew i needed antifreeze when i was start to over heat a little and the heater stopped working. Well 4 days ago, with out this happening, my aztek completely over heated to a point it was shutting off as i finally got pulled into a gas station. i bought some antifreeze and it only took bout half the bottle. seemed to fix my problem. drove on to work and after work took a small road trip.. no problems. I get up and go to work the next morning.. over heats the same place. pull into the gas station.. my over flow tank is totally full and bubbling. Im a girl. I have no idea. so i call my mechanic friend. he says has to be your thermostat... 15 minute fix ill have you fine.. so i go buy one take it to him.. he pops the hood and laughs at the engine... so my 15 minute fix i guess took 4 hours. However.. still over heating.. so he says has to be the water pump. that must have been an easy fix. he left it running for about 45 minutes but im guessing he never took it down the road. now when i got there to me it was still bought halfway hot, he said that could be the difference between the thermostat i had and the new one. that might just be where it runs. im a girl, i know no better. so i take off home... i get 2 miles down the road.. and big red lights overheating or whatever it says and it beeps at me. i call him.. he says he has NO idea but to bring it back. So im hoping someone here has an idea. he mentioned a sensor. however when i got back, and we opened up the hood.. the motor was not hot. but the overflow tank was full again. So ANY help here would be fabulous!! Thanks!!
Could be a number of things. First , if the coolant level ever got low enough in overflow tank, it could very well be it allowed air into system. To correct that you may have to check coolant level in radiator (not overflow tank) , refill if neccessary and perform proper procedure to bleed air out of system ( 2 screws for that, heater should be running on high and vehicle level) and refill coolant as needed. While things are being looked at you may want to check the radiator cap to make sure gasket isn't bad and also check to see if pickup in overflow tank is ok (not clogged or anything).
Hi, since I have now experienced one of the first stages of Problem Body Control Module (BCM) for the Pontiac Aztek & "The DISCO effect" :lemon: where my hatch refused to open using either my key remote, dash button or manually with key (was not even able to turn key in lock to open). I did some research & found that this a prevalent problem with the Aztec & similar cars such as the Rendezvous & that several people have attempted to request assistance with this problem or at least a recall for the defunct GM: 15143352 Body Control Module (BCM) & note I have read that this BCM has been replaced by ACDelco 15235418 Control Module Assembly, but I have not been able to completely verify this as yet. Note these BCM cost between $325 to $175 ea. & require programming for each individual car which I have seen rungs around $80. Not this does not include the 2 hours tearing my Aztec apart by remove parts in order the hatch open (included removing the rear hatch window, hatch molding, etc.) & the time & labor to put every thing back. Also note that his will have to be done twice since I need to drive my Aztek while I am working on getting a replacement BCM. The fact that some many Azteks & Rendezvous have come down with this "Disco Effect" for going on over 5 years now from the posts & complaints I have seen I think it is about time that a recall should be issued to have the BCM replaced on all effected cars. To this end if anyone who has experienced the "DISCO effect" please post the following: Car, model & year: :lemon: Disco symptoms: The repair costs: Any persons contacted, when, & response to complaint: Which BCM P/N was used to replace the defective one?
Thanks for your cooperation, I have completed the email form & will be contacting the Pontiac customer care by phone later on & will post the responses when I get them, BTW if you want to contact Pontiac as I have their contact info is: http://www.pontiac.com/help/contact/# Contact Us: Your complete satisfaction is important to us. We have facilities, representatives, technicians, tools, and up-to-date information to promptly resolve your questions or concerns. We provide multiple convenient ways to contact us 7 days a week, 24 hours a day. Click the link below to open our e-mail contact form: http://www.pontiac.com/showEmailToFriend.do?emailToBrand=cac Mail: Please mail your comments, questions, or concerns to the Customer Assistance Center located nearest you. From inside the U.S: Pontiac Customer Assistance Center P.O. Box 33172 Detroit, MI 48232-5172 From inside Canada: GM of Canada 1908 Colone Sam Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7, Canada Mail Code 163-005 Telephone: Your vehicle concerns are important to us. Please feel free to contact us with any questions or feedback. To better address your comments and concerns, please choose from the phone numbers below. Pontiac Customer Assistance Centers are open Monday through Saturday from 8:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. EST, and closed on Sunday. Your name, address, and home and daytime telephone numbers - Your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), which can be found on your registration Dealership name and location - Vehicle delivery date and current mileage - Nature of your concern Customer Assistance Center: Inside the U.S.: 1-800-762-2737 Inside Canada: 1-800-263-3777
Below is a copy of the feedback email I sent to Pontiac on 1/23/09: cac@pontiac.com I would like to know the status on any recalls for the Azteks regarding the Body Control Module (BCM) for the Pontiac Aztek ref: GM: 15143352 which may have been replaced by Control Module Assembly - Model #: 15235418 Brand: ACDelco. As I under stand it from the several pages of complaints this is one of the stages of the 'disco effect' where the head lights were flashing constantly and horn honking, doors/windows & hatch unlock/lock &/or release, Dash instrumentations goes out & the AC & barratry(s) drain. For more detailed hatch/BCM problem please see: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f10b5f0/282 Note, I will hold off filing a consumer complaint at www.800helpfla.com until I hear back with your response.
01 Aztek GT - VIN: 3G7DA03E21S528105 Sincerely: Charlene M. Ormsby, Merritt Island, FL 32953
My poll response: Car, model & year: Aztek, GT 2001, VIN 3G7DA03E21S528105 Disco symptoms: Rear hatch frozen in locked position, can not open via key remote, dash release or manually with key. The repair costs: current estimate around $500 & more to come Any persons contacted, when, & response to complaint: In work emailed Pontiac waiting for response Which BCM P/N was used to replace the defective one? In work, waiting to confirm which part to buy.
I am one of the many Aztek BCM victims. My posting #275 describes some of my history. I replaced the BCM In November and have cured all of my problems. I still am not going out on the limb to say all is well until another 3 or 4 more months pass. BCM 15235418 is my part used in the replacement. I tried to order the part 15143352 and found it is being held back for distribution. i used my own mechanic to do the work ($300) and the part cost $189. Also, the programming was $112 at the dealer. I would like to see a recall for this issue but, I don't have too much confidence in GM owning up to it without legal action.
Comments
Can anyone point me in the right direction? It won't shift into overdrive and sometimes at low speeds the trans. seems to slip.
Fluid level is good and is red. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Brian
Can anyone point me in the right direction? It won't shift into overdrive and sometimes at low speeds the trans. seems to slip.
Fluid level is good and is red. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Brian
I've still been trying to trouble shoot thinking I had a bad tank of gas, changed gas stations, and changed the fuel filter - all with no results. Just curious if you found a solution to your problem.
My father-in-law thinks it might be something with the emissions. I'm looking to take mine in over the holiday when we can do with one car.
We have a well-used 02 Aztek with 108,000 on it. Front wheel bearings and BCM around 80k, otherwise trouble free... Now the pump is running rough and excessively. I know the pump probably needs replacement, but there is also a second part near the pump with a large (1"?) hose that used to be attached to it- the nipple has corroded and broken off. Any idea what the second part might be, and a good place to get the entire pump assy. for a reasonable price?
Also, the amp for the rear speakers is not longer working. There's sound, just not the sweet amplified premium sound that was once there. It seems it stopped working around the same time as the BCM install- is the amp something that needed to be programmed into the BCM?
thanks for any help!
about 3 years ago, it needed a jump. I tried jumping it by attaching the cables to the fuse box jump connection (I don't know what that's called properly) and grounding the other cable. it made a loud pop when I tried to start it.
so I called AAA and they came out and tested it and I bought the AAA battery. since then, it has had 6 batteries installed. yes, you read that right, 6 batteries. approximately every 6 months, it dies (without notice what-so-ever, but always, thank God, at home) and when tested, the battery shows a dead cell. AAA then replaces it under warranty.
so, along the way, I had the alternator replaced. no change. then I posted to this forum, and it was recommended that I change the Body Control Module. did that, too. one big change since that happened, however. now the battery no longer shows a dead cell, but just that it needs a jump. so it now takes a jump, where it didn't before. better, yes. but now it needs a jump ONCE A WEEK. the BCM was replaced about 3 months ago and did fine, but in the last three weeks, it's needed a jump each week.
what on earth is going on here? we actually really like this car, but this is maddening. what will solve this? please, help!
thanks!
Good luck BCM #15235418, #15143352
It's the only thing I can think of at this time.
Murf
I saw your post regarding the thermostat housing and wondered if you could send a photo of it. I'm new to this site and can't figure out where it may have shown up.
I probably just need to replace the thermostat, but would appreciate a view of it if possible. Thanks for any help you can render.
tom
if so how do I get on the class action about it?
But get this I bought my car at Pontiac dealer in WNY and he sold some [non-permissible content removed] [non-permissible content removed] warranty and that C/o is now bankrupt so I am SOL and the warranty supposed to run thought 2009 o well
Thats an interesting concept. Guess I'll have to take the 2 of mine in because the round vents on mine blow a lot of hot air (kind of like the hot air someone appears to have blown your way).
For a better answer I know of a couple things that may be involved. There was an early TSB that I believe addressed lack of air volume through HVAC and I think involved disabling a blend door, I' ll see if I can find more details on that one.
I had a similar problem and my mechanic son-in-law found the problem to be loose or sloppyness in some mechanical parts on the left (drivers side) of HVAC system under dash. He tightened things up (no replacement of any parts) and corrected the problem.
I found the text part of bulletin:
This bulletin is being revised to correct the Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-01-38-013 (Section 01 - HVAC).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a lack of sufficient air flow from the instrument panel vents when the vent mode is selected and the temperature control is at full heat. Others may comment that the volume of hot air flow from the instrument panel vents may seem to be less than the air flow from the floor ducts.
Correction
Disable the temperature sub-damper door, located inside the air conditioning module, using the following procedure:
1. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position and move the HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) temperature control to the full cold position.
2. Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position.
3. Remove the instrument panel closeout/insulator panel.
4. Remove the instrument panel compartment.
Important: The mode door actuator described below may not be found on all vehicles. The actuator removal and replacement instructions are not necessary if this actuator is not present.
5. Locate the mode door actuator on the passenger side of the HVAC module. Disconnect the actuator electrical connector. Remove the two actuator retaining screws and the mode door actuator.
6. Remove the two screws that hold the mode door actuator mounting plate to the HVAC module. Remove the plate, exposing the mode door levers underneath. Refer to the illustration above for the location of the mode door levers.
7. Locate the mode door lever, (1) in the illustration above. Remove the mode door lever by carefully lifting the lever locking tab and simultaneously prying outward at the base of the lever with a flat screwdriver. Be sure to pry as close as possible to the base of the shaft to prevent breakage of the lever.
8. With the mode lever removed, swing the temperature sub-damper door lever (2) fully up. This opens the door fully on the inside of the HVAC module.
9. The sub-damper door may vibrate or fall closed if not secured in place. To ensure that this does not happen, use a plastic tie-strap to ensure that the door is held in place.
10. Loop a tie strap through the channel of the lever. Loop the tie-strap over the upper actuator attachment boss, making sure to also get the strap over the side ribs, as the side ribs are the locating feature for the actuator backing plate. Refer to the illustration above for location of the tie strap.
11. Install the actuator mounting plate on the HVAC module. Make sure the plate is seated against the ribs on the mounting boss.
12. Install the mode door actuator onto the actuator mounting plate.
13. Start the vehicle and check the operation of the HVAC system mode doors and temperature controls.
14. Install the instrument panel compartment.
15. Install the instrument panel insulator/closeout panel.
I Bought my Aztek about 1 1/2 years ago. When I bought it, the door lock buttons inside on the doors did not work, neither of them.
The dealer told me it was just a relay, and I bought it right after they got it so they didn't have time to fix it.
No prob, I figured, the remote fob works, I'll fix it later (got a great deal on the Aztek).
Well a few weeks ago the remote broke off the key ring and got lost. I ordered a replacement, but lo and behold the programming process requires the use of the inner door lock buttons! Crap!
I delved into the owners manual, and wala! There IS NO RELAY for door locks! Only a fuse, which was in perfect shape.
But the remote key fob worked fine, so I know the actuators are not the problem.
Why would BOTH door locks, driver & passenger, not work, but have electricity? If there is no relay and the fuse is good, too?
I'm a bit lost on this one!
Any suggestions?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Let me know if I can help.
Bill
My mechanic is a 31 year GM Veteran. He couldn't figure out the problem, and checked all the things you have listed as well. He called a guy who GM dealerships would go to to find leaks, and sure enough he discoverd that the entire sunroof leaked and that the water was seeping in and running down the walls of the interior of the car and soaking the carpet and underlayment. This caused the tremendous frosting of the interior especially on really cold days, and steamy windows when it was in the 20's and 30's. The sun roof and all seals have been replaced now. My car was a 2003. Hopefully it will solve the problem. Carpets have been dried out the best possible and portions raised, however unless we totally remove the seats and all of the carpet at once, I fear the problem will continue until summer heat really dries it out.
Well 4 days ago, with out this happening, my aztek completely over heated to a point it was shutting off as i finally got pulled into a gas station. i bought some antifreeze and it only took bout half the bottle. seemed to fix my problem. drove on to work and after work took a small road trip.. no problems.
I get up and go to work the next morning.. over heats the same place. pull into the gas station.. my over flow tank is totally full and bubbling. Im a girl. I have no idea.
so i call my mechanic friend. he says has to be your thermostat... 15 minute fix ill have you fine.. so i go buy one take it to him.. he pops the hood and laughs at the engine... so my 15 minute fix i guess took 4 hours. However.. still over heating.. so he says has to be the water pump. that must have been an easy fix. he left it running for about 45 minutes but im guessing he never took it down the road. now when i got there to me it was still bought halfway hot, he said that could be the difference between the thermostat i had and the new one. that might just be where it runs. im a girl, i know no better. so i take off home... i get 2 miles down the road.. and big red lights overheating or whatever it says and it beeps at me. i call him.. he says he has NO idea but to bring it back. So im hoping someone here has an idea. he mentioned a sensor. however when i got back, and we opened up the hood.. the motor was not hot. but the overflow tank was full again. So ANY help here would be fabulous!! Thanks!!
Car, model & year:
:lemon: Disco symptoms:
The repair costs:
Any persons contacted, when, & response to complaint:
Which BCM P/N was used to replace the defective one?
Thanks for your cooperation, I have completed the email form & will be contacting the Pontiac customer care by phone later on & will post the responses when I get them, BTW if you want to contact Pontiac as I have their contact info is:
http://www.pontiac.com/help/contact/#
Contact Us: Your complete satisfaction is important to us. We have facilities, representatives, technicians, tools, and up-to-date information to promptly resolve your questions or concerns. We provide multiple convenient ways to contact us 7 days a week, 24 hours a day.
Click the link below to open our e-mail contact form:
http://www.pontiac.com/showEmailToFriend.do?emailToBrand=cac
Mail: Please mail your comments, questions, or concerns to the Customer Assistance Center located nearest you. From inside the U.S: Pontiac Customer Assistance Center
P.O. Box 33172
Detroit, MI 48232-5172
From inside Canada: GM of Canada
1908 Colone Sam
Oshawa, Ontario
L1H 8P7, Canada
Mail Code 163-005
Telephone: Your vehicle concerns are important to us. Please feel free to contact us with any questions or feedback. To better address your comments and concerns, please choose from the phone numbers below. Pontiac Customer Assistance Centers are open Monday through Saturday from 8:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. EST, and closed on Sunday.
Your name, address, and home and daytime telephone numbers - Your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), which can be found on your registration Dealership name and location - Vehicle delivery date and current mileage - Nature of your concern Customer Assistance Center:
Inside the U.S.: 1-800-762-2737 Inside Canada: 1-800-263-3777
PS: I will be keeping a running documentation on the research I am doing regarding this issue at my Yahoo link listed below: http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/sBN6SZAlGtlYMC8-9tD3sVVwpNnZ7dIDH7qTTw83mM574IK2bis- W1gLY
CharO, Merritt Island, FL
ref. #156 of 156 Problem Body Control Module (BCM) & "The DISCO effect by charocfl Jan 23, 2009 (12:15 pm) at:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0b5d08/155
Below is a copy of the feedback email I sent to Pontiac on 1/23/09:
cac@pontiac.com
I would like to know the status on any recalls for the Azteks regarding the Body Control Module (BCM) for the Pontiac Aztek ref: GM: 15143352 which may have been replaced by Control Module Assembly - Model #: 15235418 Brand: ACDelco. As I under stand it from the several pages of complaints this is one of the stages of the 'disco effect' where the head lights were flashing constantly and horn honking, doors/windows & hatch unlock/lock &/or release, Dash instrumentations goes out & the AC & barratry(s) drain. For more detailed hatch/BCM problem please see: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f10b5f0/282 Note, I will hold off filing a consumer complaint at www.800helpfla.com until I hear back with your response.
01 Aztek GT - VIN: 3G7DA03E21S528105
Sincerely:
Charlene M. Ormsby, Merritt Island, FL 32953
My poll response:
Car, model & year: Aztek, GT 2001, VIN 3G7DA03E21S528105
Disco symptoms: Rear hatch frozen in locked position, can not open via key remote, dash release or manually with key.
The repair costs: current estimate around $500 & more to come
Any persons contacted, when, & response to complaint: In work emailed Pontiac waiting for response
Which BCM P/N was used to replace the defective one? In work, waiting to confirm which part to buy.
CharO, Merritt Island, FL
there is no coolant going to the motor at all. all seems to be going to over flow tank.
bleed the lines.. put air threw them nothing...
any other suggestions?