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Comments
Visit a dealer with the scooter. They should be willing to help, and if not they do not derserve your business any way.
Good luck. I have fit a clothes washer on its side in the box, a golf bag on a push cart unfolded, and a musical organ also in its box. It also fits 6 oversized suitcases. That's with the rear seats folded, except the golf bag and cart. Those fit even without folding the seats.
-juice
I think the brush guard beefs up the look of the bumper. I like the look and have been toying with the idea of getting one for my 2001 Blue Ridge Pearl L.
If you get one, will you be installing it yourself? If you do decide to get it, let me know what kind of price you get and what the installation process is like.
Take care,
Skip
I have stuffed all kinds of things in the back of my Forester including fishing gear, camping gear, canoe paddles, boat oars, mountain bike, a computer table, etc. and I have never felt that I didn't have enough cargo space. I guess it all depends on what you need to carry.
Skip
Actually, snow/ice build up on rims are not specific to the Forester. Virtually all rims are prone to this problem. Usually those with finer spokes are more likely to trap snow.
The next time you wax your Forester, try applying some to the wheels as well. The wax will help in preventing snow/ice build up. Otherwise, the only real alternative may be to get a set of steel wheels instead.
Ken
Chuck
For rear seat room and price/value: CRV
For cargo room, noise level, accceleartion: Forester
For style, driver comfort, versatility: RAV 4
I am leaning towards Forester at the moment because i think acceleration and cargo room are more important to me. I wish to hear your comment. Thank you.
ckyeung
FYI: Escape ranked first in C/D, follwed by RAV 4 and Forester. RAV 4 ranked first in CR, followed by Forester and Escape.
Drew
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The CR-V is a good vehicle but as canadiancl pointed out, its due for a redesign wich will hopefully address its primary weaknesses of lack of power and engine noise.
I'm not that familiar with the new RAV-4 and after reading CR's review, can't figure out why it scored better than the Forester (I suspect that a little new model bias sneaked in).
The Forester's strengths are its acceleration, handling and gas mileage. It also has excellent visibility, cargo hauling versatility and reliability. It's two weaknesses are its styling and its rear passenger leg room. Of course styling is a very subjective area and the leg room is only an issue if you routinely transport more than two adults.
Good luck on your purchase and let us know what you decide.
-Frank P.
Afterall, the majority of Forester owners love to drive theirs in the snow and as Ken pointed out, snow becoming packed in the wheels is certainly not unique to the Forester. Yes, perhaps the Forester's wheel design increases the odds of this happening but certainly you don't expect Subaru to go out and buy you a new set of wheels (which might also collect snow) do you? Certain inconveniences just come from living in the snow belt. You don't expect Subaru to shovel your drive do you? :-)
I'm sorry but I just don't see your problem as a customer service issue.
-Frank P.
My wife and I both have 2001's, hers automatic and mine 5-speed. She only has 2000 miles on it and we fully expect it to get better, but she has been getting 18 to 20 here in chilly Massachusetts, in driving I would also call around town but not city. I have been getting 20 to 21 and I have 4000 miles on mine, but I also drive "spirited".
AWD cars have more rolling friction and will never get the mileage of a FWD car. These are not 30 MPG vehicles. However, tinindiana is correct. Gas mileage should increase with some more miles, and cold weather can really make a difference. These vehicles are also geared for performance not economy. The engines can be a little "busy" at times. You might try limiting your RPMs by a few hundred and see if that helps.
One thing you can do is keep an eye on your tire pressures, as slightly higher pressure can decrease rolling resistance and help a great deal. My personal opinion is that the factory recommendation of 29F/28R is too low, and should be considered a minimum for safety only. Of course, tire pressures in the 20's also didn't help the Firestone fiasco. I personally run mine in the mid 30's and am still experimenting to get the feel and handling I like. I set my wife's at 35F/34R to keep the same 1 PSI difference the factory recommends.
Good luck! They really are great vehicles.
Frank
Besides city vs hwy, individual driving style is the single biggest determinant in what type of mileage you get but there are many other contributing factors such as tire inflation, time of year, type of gas, etc.
Also remember that the Forester has a big 4-cyl engine and is a full-time AWD non-aerodynamic mini-SUV, none of which helps the gas mileage (tinindiana's 92 Accord will always get better mileage since it's a aerodynamic FWD sedan with a smaller engine).
Regarding the low fuel warning...I almost ran out of fuel once after going only 20 some miles. This really surprised me since on my previous vehicle I could always count on it for another 50 miles. However, I discovered that the point at which the light comes on varies from model to model. I believe that in the Subaru it's supposed to come on when you're down to approx 2 gallons. In which case, you were probably under a gallon after driving another 23 miles. When there's less than a gallon in the tank, all it takes is a slight incline for the fuel to slosh away from the intake and the engine to stall. In my case, I learned my lesson and now start looking for a place to refuel as soon as the light comes on. FYI: Many folks think I’m nuts and don't wait near that long but refuel before it gets down below a 1/4 tank.
One last word of consolation....you could be driving the highly rated Escape! Several owners of which have reported getting only 14-15 mpg!!!
-Frank P.
The last tank of gas that I measured in our Forester yielded 23 mpg, of mostly highway driving.
Bob
- 22 to 25 MPG, with a pretty heavy foot. OK for a 3,200 lb. all wheel drive tall car.
- Noisy tires caused by wear due to misalignment on all 4 corners. I had that taken care of when I had winter tires installed by my local tire /alignment shop last fall at about 50K.
- All 4 Brake pads just replaced on recommendation of the dealer; wear sensors were starting to make noise on the rears. Better safe than sorry.
- The cruise control throttle servo failed in the early 50Ks. I gave the dealer a polite earful about how this NEVER would have happened to the Toyota I had previously, and that I was *very* disappointed to have such a problem so early on in the life of my Subaru. They spoke to the Northeast regional Subaru office about helping out with the cost of replacement. I've been told that I will only have to pay about $ 100 toward the cost of replacing this part when it comes in next week. So far so good!
Although I still fall prey to Former Toyota Owner Syndrome (What?!? brake pads already?!? My Tercel didn't need its first set until over 90K!) I enjoy driving my Forester. It's the perfect compact cruiser; stable in all weather (the winter tires - Cooper XGTs on 15" Forester takeoff wheels - make a big difference in snow and ice) and nimble on twist roads & COMFORTABLE. The RAV4 I looked at in '99 was too light, small and slow.
I was amused to read Car & Driver's latest comparo ranking the Forester 4th after the new RAV4 & the Escape/Tribute. - Talk about New Model Bias! They must weigh newness of design and tall ride height for SUVs at the top of the point scale. While the Escape/Tribute twins have more room, C&D grumbles about their trucky ride and cold "personality" - and says that they'd be *really* good if Ford would improve on these. Even if the new RAV4 has more room and power than the old one, I'll stay with my Forester's feeling of stability, nimbleness and heft - even if I don't get to tower over other traffic. In the real world, that "command view" doesn't count for much when you're negotiating a snowy exit ramp - or making a slushy, greasy lane change at highway speed.
Also, the door swings open very wide, and requires an enormous amount of space behind you.
Finally, there isn't really a rear bumper - just cladding at the bottom of the rear door. Even a fender bender will cost you big bucks.
Combine these 3 factors together and you have a truly awful, cost-cutting design flaw that should have been fixed with this 2nd generation.
Besides that, the Forester is quicker almost all the acceleration tests, but they still gave the RAV4 a higher score for the engine. Forester got a higher score for handling, tied in fun-to-drive, and beat the crap out of the Toyota in feature content (Toyota nickel-and-dimes you for every little option, including a rear bumper, so forget about any real price advantage).
The big win for the RAV4 was styling, 9 to 6 IIRC, but that's subjective anyway. The only real criticism of the Forester was that it's a car, and IMHO that is an advantage, not a disadvantage.
OTOH, the RAV4 had great mileage and braking. Thing is, Forester wasn't far behind in those, either.
CR also forgot to mention the rear hatch design, which is odd because you'd expect them to notice that. Also, the then new '98 Forester they tested actually scored higher than the more recent 2001 Forester, which is clearly better than the '98.
"New" model bias, perhaps?
-juice
The issue of AWD economy is a bit of a vexed one. Some commentators claim increased economy as all wheels are driven, purportedly evening out friction losses. I am as dubious of this as of most engineer's claims.
I suspect that the eficiency of a boxer engine may have more to do with it. I was pretty horrified by the fuel economy of by Outback (averaging about 10l/100km or 28mpg (imperial)) after running a 1.8T Passat which was running about 7-8l/100km or about 35-40mpg (imperial). I recall some article somewhere talking inate problems in making boxer engines economical.
Anyone have any ideas why?
As to the low fuel warning light; there is only really one way to check this out. At some point you have to run the car bone dry of fuel to work out how far you can drive when the light comes on. It seems to vary from car to car and for my Outback is about 100km (62 miles). Fortunately, I got a warning when the fuel pick-up starved going around a sharp corner just near a service station. This was at total trip distance of 637km or about 398 miles from last fill.
There is a down side to running the tank this dry. Fuel normally picks up some impurities, especially if filled at country petrol stations where rust, water, hay seeds (yes, I am serious) and othr comntaminants enter the storage tank. These normally settle to the bottom of the tank but can be picked up if you run the tank dry. These are not good for fuel filters or injection systems and whilst petrol injection, unlike diesel, does not require draining if allowed to run dry, it is not a good idea.
Cheers
Graham
I have an automatic 2001 S+, with about 1700 miles on it. I've been getting 20 - 21 mpg in straight city driving, and about 24 mpg in mixed highway/city. Haven't had it on a total highway trip yet. (I'd consider myself to be a fairly conserative driver most of the time, and winters here in Austin are not terribly cold.) I keep reading that the mileage should improve once it's completely broken in, but I'd have to say that I have no complaints about it so far. If it improves - great; if not, it's pretty much where I expected it to be. It's a great car, overall.
Cindy
You should not have to use DryGas or any type of product (although injector cleaner is probably a good thing after every oil change). I've never used any of that stuff as a preventive maintenance item.
My suggestion (with so few miles on the car), is to be critical of any subtle hesitation problems. If you notice anything, take it back to them, and start a paper trail with Subaru. These types of problems are difficult to track down.
Good luck.
-Tony
Scott: I recommend that you keep the tank full, especially when it will sit for a while. Empty tanks allow more condensation.
I've never used DryGas, so I can't comment on that product.
-juice
The one thing that puzzled me about the C&D comparo was how they mentioned the Forester's bottom sometimes scraped the high snowlevel but nothing about the RAV4. If you look at the specs, the RAV4 has the least amount of ground clearance of the bunch -- am I missing something?
Ken
I want to upgrade the speaker in my 2001 S+ Forester but not sure the size of them. I guess the front speakers is 6 1/2" but not sure about the rear one.
Also, any suggestion in brand? I heard Polk is quite good in Accessory board.
Thx,
Jack
So they should have listed 7.5" for both the Forester and RAV4.
In reality, the Forester's front exhaust, just aft of the cat, lies about 6.7" above ground. The catch is it's not part of the frame, and it can flex upwards about an inch or so, and you would not high-center.
But the RAV4 also has less clearance than stated. Look closely and you'll see the exhaust pipe runs completely under the rear pumpkin (diffy), dipping down a couple of inches or so.
Even the CR-V has a dip in the exhaust.
Another thing - since they all have independent suspensions, loading them up to the full payload reduces clearance. So a 6" rock could scrape any one of these if they are loaded up with 4 adults and cargo.
-juice
I would have loved to see a table (or side bar with an in-depth discussion discussing the merits and flaws of each AWD/4WD system in regards to snow), in that test ranking each vehicle on their snow ability.
Bob
The CR-V also has exposed lower wish bones, and the half shafts look pencil-thin, if anything reached them.
Bob: I fully agree. They even went as far as saying the Escape and Tribute were the worst in the snow (partially because of the tires), and then rated them the best in a snow test!
-juice
I agree too. They should have used the print space for posting the snow-driving results. You can find the dry road performance figures in other reviews.
C&D mentioned a hill climbing test that I would have liked to have read more about. I think it would have been a great chance to look into the dynamic differences between the wide range of 4WD systems represented by the vehicles.
Ken
-juice
Bob
Eddie
Try taking everything out of the glove compartment, center console, ash tray, coin trays, map pockets, etc. and then see if it's still present.
Dealers have a tool nicknamed "ears" that listen for low frequencies, and that might help trace it.
-juice
The rear speaker size is 5". I bought the Polk EX501A as they are a direct fit. Fronts are 6 1/2", for those, I put in Kenwood or Pioneer, I don't remember. Upgrade made incredible differences with the sound quality, including a new CD head unit.
Eddie:
I too have _HAD_ the buzzing sound from the dash. It occurred only occasionally, but thru a certain RPM range during acceleration. Recently (like within the last few thousand miles) it has disappeared. I have noticed that the storage compartment on the dash (i.e., where the gauge pack is installed) does occasionally buzz as well. I just give it a slight tap and voila, no more noise.
-Tony
-Mike
BTW, chances are the buzz will come and go. I have a couple in my 98. A lot of it has to do with temperature. The warmer it is, the materials must expand and make for tighter tolerances.
Ken
-juice
I think I would upgrade the speakers first. And right now I am satisfied with the head unit
and may change it later.
Rgds,
Jack
mike
I don't live in Canada so I can't comment on the prices but the strongest bargaining tools you can bring to the table is to know your next best alternative (ie. another offer from a different dealer) and the fact that you can always walk out if you're not happy.
Too many people I know have gone simply to one dealership only. It pays to shop around to know if you're getting a good deal.
Good luck!
Ken
I've called 4 other dealerships and visited another one. the price I have from this dealer is so far the lowest. he's between $200 to under $2000 (!!) below all the prices I was quoted over the phone. I do know I can walk away from the table but it's a little tough if other dealerships are charging more. I'm also hoping the being a couple buying together will work to our advantage. also any advice from married folks... did bringing the Mrs. help with the whole ordeal? thanks
mike
If the first words are "Come on, Honey...", she "convinces" you to stay.
If the first words are "This isn't working...", she joins you.
Can be nice if you want to "appear" ready to walk out and you have a cue to have her pull you back.
I am proud to tell y'all that I just got my brand spankin new sedona red-auto-Subaru Forester S+.
I couldn't be happier with it!
I am rather new here and would like to say all of your positive comments about the car reinforced my decision to buy this awesome car.
Thanks
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards