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I'm having a debate with my Ford Lincoln dealer on a Parking Assist Module which I order to correct a problem stated in Ford TSB 06-25-13. The part which I order was 3W1Z-15K886-AC that is stated in the TSB. When I received the part the Ford shipping box label stated 3W1Z-15K886-AC ..BUT.. the white part number sticker on the part itself stated 3W1T-15T850-AL. My original module in the car the Ford part number sticker states 3W1T-15T850-AJ. Is the part I received the same as the my original or is it the upgrade to correct the problem? I have not installed it as of yet.
Any help would be most appreciated.
Thank you.
I always though that the box number would be the same as the part number in the box. I had the thought that the part was a NOS part in a updated box.
Once the rain stops here I will install it.
Thanks again acdii
Ed
and my baterry is not dying
I tried manual locking also ,but it still alarms.Any suggestions?
I have the same problem in my 1995 Lincoln Town Car. Battery is completely drained after three days of not being started.
After the battery is disconnected, then reconnected through an ammeter, there is an initial draw of about .78 milliamps that goes down to .32 milliamps after about 10 seconds. There is some variation in this .32 milliamp current -- say +/- 5 milliamps -- over time even with nothing apparently changing in the vehicle.
It is NOT:
Rear courtesy lamps activated by armrest switches.
Sun visor vanity lamps.
Glove box light.
Current drain through alternator. (when disconnected, it caused no change in the current draw)
Trunk lamp.
Engine compartment lamp.
The greatest current draw is for engine compartment fuse #5 (ignition switch) and #10 (air bag)
Also, instrument panel fuse #15 (various interior) causes the horn to chirp when removed and when replaced.
Help!
I can only think that the best way to find out what is draining your battery down is to put a meter on your battery and if its showng a draw- Start pulling fuses until the draw goes away and that system should be your problem. Its worked for me.
Ed
tim
The car no longer had air suspension, the trunk switch for it is turned off, and the engine compartment fuse has been removed.
The instrument panel is electronic, including the clock. All instrument panel functions are normal.
There is nothing plugged into the cigar lighter.
I checked the alternator output current. It is correct.
I put in another battery last evening. I will see if the symptom persists over a three day period of non-use.
The reserve capacity of a Lincoln Town Car battery is about 145 minutes.
Some calculations:
Power that the reserve capacity can provide = 145 minutes x 25 amps x hour/60 minutes = 60 amp-hours
Power the actual current draw requires = 3-1/2 days x 24 hours/day x 0.320 amp = 27 amp-hours
I think that means the battery should not be drawn down deeply enough to prevent starting the engine.
Therefore, the battery may be at fault. It may not have sufficient reserve capacity.
-------------------------------------------
Any others who have measured the actual current draw on this vehicle?
It does not have the 4pack coil system. It has an electrical system where a coil wire comes out from a wire hardness to each plug. If the car is down hill or on a flat area the car will take off and run but it will shake bad. When and if it can take off it runs fine on the high-way.
Engine compartment
# 5-----Ignition Switch------10 mA difference
#10----Air Bags-------------100 mA difference
Instrument panel
#15-----Warning chime, Headlamp switch, License Lamps, Park Lamps, Ashtray Lamps, I/P Lighter Lamp, Interior Display and Switch, Illumination------------15 mA difference
The horn chirps very briefly when this fuse is removed or installed
:shades:
:shades:
I'm going to take it to a dealer, but would sure appreciate thoughts from anybody with a similar experience - electronics problems are scary.