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The Acura website says the MDX uses "Premium 91 Octane" fuel.
There's a footnote concerning the Pilot on the Hondacars website:
Premium unleaded fuel increases engine torque and is recommended when towing above 3500 lbs.
I found the fuse the feeds the plug, jumped it to a always on terminal,@ the fuse panel.
worked great for about 6 weeks then one morning the battery was dead.
When I first did this I heard a relay click as I powered up the plug. So I
am back to square one .
I want a always on plug for my radar detector, so it will stay in city mode.
So Honda must use a knock sensor to retard timing if 87 octane must be used on the MDX, but it sounds like they don't recommend it.
I'd guess the Saturn Redline will also require premium, if only because of the performance application.
-juice
Engine Service Inspection
Quaker State Semi-Synthetic Oil Change
Top off all Fluids
Tire Rotation
Brake Syste Fluid Flush
Replace Spark Plugs & set gap
Inspect filters, PCV cannister filters
Inspect ingnition timing and cables
inspect basic idle specifications
Inspect emmissions control systems
Remove residual crankcase oil and byproducts
remove piston deposits
servicevalve train and sludge control
Transmission Service
Valve Adjustment
Diagnostic Inspection
New Air Filter
Is this too much? What should I pay for the 60k service?
The Edmunds Maintenance Guide will tell you what the factory advises and what we think it should cost.
Steve, Host
Engine Service Inspection - what's this? fluff?
Quaker State Semi-Synthetic Oil Change - yeah, gotta change the oil, but what's semi-synthetic?
Top off all Fluids - OK, lotsa places include this with an oil/filter change
Tire Rotation - OK
Brake System Fluid Flush - OK
Replace Spark Plugs & set gap - OK, but don't all plugs come pre-gap'ed?
Inspect filters, PCV cannister filters - fluff
Inspect ingnition timing and cables - well OK, but I think it's fluff
inspect basic idle specifications - fluff
Inspect emmissions control systems - OK
Remove residual crankcase oil and by products - what's this? did the dealer put too much oil in? and what by products?
remove piston deposits - what are piston deposits? never heard of this.
service valve train and sludge control - more fluff, what's sludge control?
Transmission Service - OK, but what exactly did he do? should be just the fluid change on an auto., not sure with a manual.
Valve Adjustment - Not needed until 105K miles, according to my '99 CRV manual
Diagnostic Inspection - part of his boat payment
New Air Filter - OK
I'd recommend following your owner's manual, not what the dealer recommends.
Even the base Forester X gives you keyless entry, ABS, Side Air Bags for the driver and front passenger, cargo cover, AM/FM/CD (and weatherband?), rear wiper de-icer, and I believe roof rails.
- Lou
wound up paying only half of the original quote.Educate yourself and Edmunds is a good place to start.Going by the CRV owners manual it is a very low maintenance vehicle.Is it my imagination but my V seems to have a surge of power at 4500 rpm? Is that a Vtec thing?So far my only gripe is it doesn't handle like a Porsche,but then you can't haul much in a porsche.
regards,
kyfdx
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Honda manual states "replace engine oil every 5,000 miles OR 6 months". I understood this to mean whichever comes first.
Can anyone clarify?
regards,
kyfdx
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Here we go again.....
Isn't the time factor important too? Or else why does Honda state OR six months?
Just want to be sure not to void the warranty
regards,
kyfdx
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tidester, host
NO!
$7-$8 would be fair
Thanks.
Steve
Also, I do a lot of highway driving. Can the 4 cylinder give me the power I need to get on and off and in and out of traffic so I don't feel I need a push?
Thanks
lel1962.. not sure about the cargo, but plenty of torque and power..that won't be a problem.
regards,
kyfdx
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Thanks,
Budge
Do you regularly keep your vehicles for 250,000+ miles?
Are you trying to do extended drain intervals? Honda recommends 5k and 10k depending on Severe and Normal service. How much further do you plan on extending it?
Go look at the Synthetic oil thread. The debate between dino and syntheic is relentless. The general rule of thumb is that if you are the type of person who keeps a vehicle 10 years or more, or to 200,000 miles or more the added cost of syntheic might be justified. However if you are like the average consumer who only keeps their vehicle for 4-7 years and till the odo hits 80 to 150k, regular oil at the manufacturers recommended drain intervals will do just fine.
Either way it's your $$. Check out bobistheoilguy.com also
tidester, host
I've heard all the arguments and, until I have a major engine problem, I'll continue to believe in the benefits.
www.mobil1.com
BTW I used Mobil1 5w-30 in my 6hp B/S OHV Toro mower. I haven't changed the oil in 8 years and it still starts by the second pull every time. No winterizing. 1 new plug. 3/4 of a dusty acre that takes me 1.3 hours to mow. (I take MUCH better care of my cars.)
Plus, I drove a 1986 Fiero 168,000 miles with synthetic. (Sold it still running strong.)
Seriously, thats amazing for a Fiero.
kyfdx
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The same can be said for dino oil.
But since you've made your decision.
You can safely use 5W30 Mobil1 until more manufacturers come up with a 5w20. My dealer uses 5w20 Quaker State Synthic Blend.
It is a little thicker but should give you better protection if you deal with Texas summers like I do.
AMSOIL makes a 5w20 synthetic
www.americansyntheticoil.com
regards,
kyfdx
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jian0041
Also, the Honda ownerlink mentioned that using more expensive gas (higher than #87) will just make driving more costly and would not have any effect on engine life an performance. Is that true?
Thanks!
regards,
kyfdx
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$3.99 a Quart or 18.99 for a 5 quart jug
I'm a synthetic user. I haven't switched the CRV over yet, since Mobil doesn't make the grade required yet. I don't do the extended 7-10k + change intervals, though, on my Nissan. I use the highest manufacturer recommended change interval, which is 5k. The CRV is rated for a pretty long change interval, which is great for saving money on changes. But, when I look at the 2 primary reasons to do an oil and filter change, I think synthetic is worth it in this car.
First, conventional oil breaks down into thicker stuff with temperature. Synthetic is much much better at resisting this effect. for a vehicle with such a long change interval, I'd go with the synthetic for insurance. I'm sure the longer intervals are fine with conventional if everything in your car is in top shape. As the car ages, who knows?
Second, your oil filter traps particles. Even the ultra synthetics that last ~25k-30k miles between oil changes (due to excellent breakdown resistance), recommend filter changes every 10-15k or so. Why? Because the oil filter still traps particulate even when you're using synthetic, and a clogged filter reduces your oil pressure, which can lead to engine failure. I think 10k is a good upper limit for filter change on the CRV, which was designed for that service interval. I change my filter with every oil change on the nissan.
sure the cost is higher. for myself, it's $16 for 4 quarts in the nissan, every 5k. That's probably $12 more than I'd pay for regular oil. If you drive 25k per year, that's $60 per year. I've had good success with synthetic, and I'm not willing to change for that $60.
Have a good one.