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Unfortunately, the new CVTs aren't a big improvement. But the only way to avoid it on many models is the get a 4 cylinder car with manual. Which drives a lot better and will cost you a fraction to repair.
Problems that occur on today's new vehicles are usually engineering goofs or supplier goofs that are easily corrected and don't reoccur. Minor inconvenience.
I posted an average of 3 tests on the V6 Accord. I think 6.1 is repeatable by someone who hasn't won a Motor Sport championship of some sort.
In my previous vehicle, the Jeep GC, the sunroof leaked and the seat heaters broke, only heating my back on high, then dumping water on my head. SWEET!
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There is an entire *thread* about this. My comments about what the transmission shop/rebuilder said concerning Honda CVTs is accurate as far as I am concerned.
I thought the computer safety nannies jumped in AFTER any slip is detected. So upgrading the tires should give you more 'play' room.
On my previous RWD car if I hammered it like a maniac it would intervene after a slight chirp and wiggle of the rear end. Similarly it intervened at much lower speeds when it was wet out side...because it detected the tire slip situation.
I think if it were just looking at your g's you'd end up spinning out of control on slippery surfaces.
You are confusing stability control with AWD, which adjusts to an ACTUAL loss of grip. Then we enter the world of locking diff's as well.
I can turn off the traction control completely though...so I can do hella burn outs.
From Wikipedia "ESC incorporates yaw rate control into the anti-lock braking system (ABS). Yaw is a rotation around the vertical axis; i.e. spinning left or right. Anti-lock brakes enable ESC to brake individual wheels. Many ESC systems also incorporate a traction control system (TCS or ASR), which senses drive-wheel slip under acceleration and individually brakes the slipping wheel or wheels and/or reduces excess engine power until control is regained. However, ESC achieves a different purpose than ABS or Traction Control.[20]
The ESC system uses several sensors to determine what the driver wants (input). Other sensors indicate the actual state of the vehicle (response). The control algorithm compares driver input to vehicle response and decides, when necessary, to apply brakes and/or reduce throttle by the amounts calculated through the state space (set of equations used to model the dynamics of the vehicle).[34] The ESC controller can also receive data from and issue commands to other controllers on the vehicle such as an all wheel drive system or an active suspension system to improve vehicle stability and controllability.
The sensors used for ESC have to send data at all times in order to detect possible defects as soon as possible. They have to be resistant to possible forms of interference (rain, holes in the road, etc.). The most important sensors are:
Steering wheel angle sensor: determines the driver's intended rotation; i.e. where the driver wants to steer. This kind of sensor is often based on AMR-elements.
Yaw rate sensor : measures the rotation rate of the car; i.e. how much the car is actually turning. The data from the yaw sensor is compared with the data from the steering wheel angle sensor to determine regulating action.
Lateral acceleration sensor: often an accelerometer
Wheel speed sensor : measures the wheel speed.
Other sensors can include:
Longitudinal acceleration sensor: similar to the lateral acceleration sensor in design but can offer additional information about road pitch and also provide another source of vehicle acceleration and speed.
Roll rate sensor: similar to the yaw rate sensor in design but improves the fidelity of the controller's vehicle model and correct for errors when estimating vehicle behavior from the other sensors alone."
The truth is that all of these sensors work together with ABS and (Traction Control System) and many even cut power to mitigate yaw. My car cuts power if it detects over .82 or if the system detects loss of grip...whichever comes first.
1) blind spot
2) Pass seat: no height adj.
3) No spare tire (compressor/sealer kit included). (LX and EX trim).
So, not only does it have a blind spot, but my passenger can't adjust the seat high enough to see either.
There is a nit-picking issue on the steering. It is numb and slow. Feedback is better when pushing it near it's limits, and on the highway at high speed.
Here is a link to a 5 car comparo from C/D: http://www.caranddriver.com/comparisons/2013-chevrolet-malibu-eco-vs-2012-honda-- accord-ex-l-2012-hyundai-sonata-se-2012-kia-optima-ex-2012-toyota-camry-se-2012-- volkswagen-passat-25-se-comparison-tests
The current DI four cyl. engines get decent mileage while providing enough power output for the average consumer. My current V6 averages 27 mpg and 25 in winter. The next car must be in the 30's.
If you could start from scratch (i.e., no Kia), what would you buy/lease this month?
Different folks, different strokes. Wife and I have bought cars over the years that had these "standard" and we have never used them. The window is closed. The sunshade always closed.
Could never figure out why on very hot 90 degree summer days, I see folks with sunroof shade drawn back, and windows closed and AC apparently on, they have the the hot sun shining on their heads. What the heck is that about?
Money no object? Ok.
1)Honda Accord V6 Touring (has real 6 speed automatic..no CVT) Best build quality, safe, fast, spacious, and has lots of tech goodies. Good sight-lines, and no blind spot. Proven engine. Very nice looking car as well. Made in USA. Did I mention fast?
2) Kia Optima EX/SX/SXL. Best price and value. Has real 6 speed automatic, Both engines good on horsepower, turbo is almost as quick as the Honda. Safe, good build quality, gorgeous in SX and SXL trim, and A+ materials on the interior, making it a nice place to sit in traffic. 3rd year for this model so all issue's have been sorted out. Made in USA.
I spend a lot of time reading, and almost every car magazine still doesn't like the buzzing and whining sound/feel that comes from the CVT trannies. After spending $25,000 to $32,000...I don't want to hear irritating and frankly cheap sounds coming from the engine bay either. The push for fuel economy has netted some great technology, and automakers should be very proud. I just don't want to give up a nice driving automatic for a beehive to save 7 cents a mile. My commute is bad enough.
1) On a cloudy day, it makes the interior brighter.
2) On a day with moderate temps (e.g. 50-80), I can pop the roof up or slide it open and enjoy fresh air (when not driving behind a diesel truck)
3) On a warm but not hot day, I can open it up and use the AC less (roof open plus rear windows cracked gives me nice airflow)
4) When parked on a warm day with no chance of rain, I can pop the roof and let some of hot air out, so it's cooler inside when I return
5) On a cold day, I can open the shade and sunlight warms the car.
6) When I am being pursued by enemy agents, my partner (a gorgeous and highly skilled agent) can stand on the passenger seat and fire at the pursuing cars or helicopters while I drive.
OK... maybe not the last one.
The top speed on my car is 131 mph. I would love to check that out if it was safe, which it's not, and if there weren't 6,000 camera's so folks at home could enjoy a high-speed pursuit on my behalf.
There is a local high-speed exit off 395 that I enjoy pushing my cars handling a bit, and it is still satisfying. I think the EST kicked in once in the past 6 months, so it is not a big deal. My real desire fro new tires is for better steering feel, and better rain traction. I am glad that I know what my car's limits are. .82 is enough for me.
I skipped the sunroof and got the flux capacitor with the Mr. fusion upgrade.
To me the sunroof is for ambiance. It says "I have the top of the line". It just wasn't a priority for me. I have had cars with them before, and I liked having a sunroof....but again, I just rarely used it. It is congested here. With the sunroof open on the beltway while crawling at 5mph; it's like sticking a tailpipe in the roof. I HATE diesel fumes too.
I won't buy a car without one. The shade is always open, and the roof itself whenever possible. Can't stand a car with a solid roof at this point.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
(1) Honda Accord
(2) Kia Optima
(3) Nissan Altima
(4) Ford Fusion
(5) Mazda 6
(7) Subaru Legacy
(8) Hyundai Sonata
(9) Toyota Camry
(10) Chevrolet Malibu
(1) Honda Accord
(2) Kia Optima
(3) Nissan Altima
(4) Ford Fusion
(5) Mazda 6
(6) VW Passat
(7) Subaru Legacy
(8) Hyundai Sonata
(9) Toyota Camry
(10) Chevrolet Malibu
For me it probably would be a top choice between the first 3.
based on looking/sitting and lots of reading, the ones that would be on my list are:
Legacy
Accord
Passat
Optima
Camry (hurts me to say that, but only because I liked the seats!)
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
http://pictures.dealer.com/v/vosshondaoh/0289/f0011d780a0d02b70197871d6b3ab119.j- pg
Does that $219 + fees + taxes deal include the first payment paid for you, or do you pay that up front too?
I still want a power seat though...
1. 6 has 6spd auto vs Accord's CVT. I personally would rather have a 6 spd auto than the CVT.
2. 6 has about the same power and torque but arriving at lower revs.
3. 6 weighs about 135lb less.
4. 6 gets 26/38 and the Accord gets 27/36. Somewhat of a wash there I guess.
5. Exteror and interior dimensions are very close so no clearcut advantage to either there but I did notice the 6 has over 2 inches more in wheelbase which usually equates to a little smooter ride.
6. In these models, Grand Touring and EX-L, a lot standard or available but I was suprized at how much more the Mazda, which is listed below first, had for example:
-19" vs. 17" tires/wheels.
-Directionally adaptive headlights, not available on the Accord.
-HIDs, halogen on the Accord EX-L.
-11 spkr sound vs. 7 spkr sound in the Accord EX-L.
-Glovebox light, not available on the Accord EX-L. LOL. I don't really care but there it is.
-Gearshift knob is leather, plastic and rubber on the Accord. What's up with that on leather trim?
-Compass standard on the 6, available on the Accord.
-Auxilliary visors vs. not available on the Accord.
-Voice activated NAV vs. available for the Accord.
-Homelink on the 6, not available on the Accord Ex-L.
There are a couple of things I noticed that the Accord has and the obvious one is that side mirror camera thing. I'm not sure I would even have that turned to tell you the truth. I'm still getting used to using my backup camera in my current new vehilce and notice a slight disruption in my awareness of where the front of my vehilce is going as I watch that thing and don't like that exactly. I realize I'll get used to it but I don't know if I want to be staring at a video pic of my side mirror driving 70 down the expressway. I'm sure it will good thing but it's not a major plus for me. The other thing was that both driver and passenger front widnows on the Accord had auto up/down vs just the driver on the 6. Not major but wanted to offer equal time.
All in all, I would on say on paper at least the Mazda6 is great competitor and from what I've read it drives very good too. Can't wait to take my wifes's 2007 Mazda6 in for her next oil change and test drive one.
I am biased.....see below.
For example, my drive into the city today was very satisfying. My Optima's 6 speed auto is always ready to choose the right gear, making 50 to 85 mph passing effortless. The sound of the dual exhaust is very throaty and quite refined until about 500 rpm before redline (6500 RPM is redline)...where it gets coarse. The main power-band is available between 3500 and 6000 RPM. It is a very flexible combination.
So, if I only drive the Optima then my choice is going to be biased, no matter what.
So, by this weekend I will have driven all 4 top contenders. It's an excuse to go play with cars, and since it is my birthday today, I think I will have a bit of fun!
Why are you getting a car already? Did you lease?
I look forward to hearing your thoughts on them after your test drives! Have fun!
I get to keep our 2008 Accord EXL 5MT, which becomes more "my" car, and so I don't mind having a CVT in the family.
With that being said, most people IMO are not buying these cars becasue they are 1 or 2 tenths of a second quicker. Now if you were talking a couple of seconds that would be a deal breaker as that would affect the driving experience somewhat. That's really the only reason I even glance at 0-60 times for cars like this is to make sure they are in the ballpark with their competitors and they usually are. Very little seperates them when it comes to speed. Now if I were comparing a Mustang GT vs. a Camaro SS or something like that I would be very inerested in the 0-60 times etc.
For my car (manual cloth) and truck (leather power king seats) I installed sheepskin covers for less than half the cost of heated seats. They are warm in winter and cooler in summer. I even have sheepskin pads for the Motorcycle seats. They add serious comfort to any seat. No baahhaaaad sheep jokes please....