I don't think a vehicle will suddenly make you more active. But you can do things with an SUV that you wouldn't with a sedan that may make things like bike riding, camping etc. more of an option.
If you want to motivate yourself to be more active, maybe do some activities prior to purchase like biking etc. Then as a reward for sticking to it, buy a CR-V after x months of biking, hiking etc.
This is just the sort of mind job I do on myself to motivate a healthier lifestyle.
FWIW, Forester fits a full-size spare under the cargo floor, so it could be done.
I'd also like to see Honda get rid of the exposed rear door hinge. There were 2 in the 1st gen, 1 left now, maybe they'll hide both for the 3rd generation? LOL
"FWIW, Forester fits a full-size spare under the cargo floor, so it could be done."
Yeah, but things have to be sacrificed to do that. In the CR-V, you'd have to raise the cargo floor, or lower the rear differential.
Other's like the Escape and VUE must make do with a donut spare. (These vehicles have good towing capability, but, if you pop a tire, you're up a creek.)
I expect the Forester is able to shoehorn a full-size spare because of it's relatively short wheelbase, matched to a long back end. Good for the spare tire, not so good for departure angles or backseat space.
Could they squeeze it in behind the rear diffy? Maybe it's not long enough behind the rear axle.
Honda will use the Michelin PAX run-flat system on the new Ody, it's neat but also a little bit controversial (tire costs, who can service it, etc). Wonder if that'll make it to the CR-V.
Ody uses the spare tire well for a lazy susan, neat idea. CR-V would just eliminate the rear-mounted spare.
Right. It's not long enough back there. I suppose they could cut away some bumper material and make the spare part of the bumper, but I've got a feeling that would introduce crash safety issues.
I think we'll see the lazy susan before we see the PAX tires.
I seem to be babbling on in this email but hopefully I say something that someone finds useful...
I've never taken the full loan term to pay off a debt. I paid of my 6yr loan on a 93 civic in 3yrs and a 4 year loan on an '01 subaru in 3 years also - maybe I should just do 36 month loans...? but that's another topic. On loans I have had, as long as I didn't pay the loan off in the first 90 days, there was no penalty whatsoever. Call the toll free number for your lender and ask them your "payoff amount". They will give you a figure and a time frame. For instance, they will say your payoff amount is $13,521.15 if we receive your payment in full by September 21, 2004. Then you can write them a check in that amount, include a letter to that effect with your account number on it, save a copy of your letter, and pop it into a certified-return-receipt envelope. Voila! You're paid off. You will eventually have your title.
As for continuing to pay but in larger amounts. Just write a bigger check. It should go to toward the principle but if you want peace of mind, call your lender. I'm overpaying two car loans now by $100 per month and never bothered to check with my lenders - eLoan and Subaru/Chase automotive. You wind up saving hundreds by paying off early so why not? I saved $1500 in interest on a 6 year 9.9% loan (I was 23 and very naive with no credit - whatdya want!? ;-)
As for when to payoff... Hm... Well, most people I know like to owe nothing on the car by the time the warranty wares out. For a Honda, that's after 3 years (36K mile). That way, you don't have to worry about $350 car payment AND a repair bill in the same month. As for residual value... uh... guess it depends on the car. If you had a Ford, you'd best pay off ASAP. On a Honda... using Edmund's depreciation of about $5000 in year one and about $1500 per year for the next few years... It really depends how much you finance, the terms of your loan, etc but in a very rough mock up I think the payoff is best made within 3 years. If your continue to pay a loan, it's likely you'd be (and would have been) paying off your principle slower than the rate of depreciation. Then come year four - you'd have car payments on a car that is worth less than you owe and is no longer under warranty. Hm... Blach!
I would write a seperate check for the additional principal on the loan and write "FOR PRINCIPAL ONLY" in bold face on the front of the check.
Ford Credit gave me a *heck* of a time when I prepaid some principal and that was my saving grace. They grudgingly accepted but lost a customer forever because by then it was way too late.
Yeah, Ford credit is interesting. I had a loan where the dealer had financed a small additional warranty. Turns out the car was still under factory warranty, so I cancelled the extra warranty. Ford Credit refused to refund the money to me and instead put it towards the loan principal instead. Well, that put the loan value under retail blue book, so I just went to the Credit Union and refinanced the loan. And thus Ford credit lost my business - forever...
money back to a customer if it was financed with the car. I work for a aotomotive finance company and whenever someone buy a warranty financed with the car, they warranty sends us the money if it's cancelled.
I think they are required as long as there is a balance on the loan.
Exactly... if the warranty is added on to the price of the car, and the car is financed, EVERY finance company requires that the refund be applied to principal.
If they didn't, they would end up with a higher percentage of the deal financed, and the loan may then not meet the underwriting requirements.
Also, it reduces the chance of fraud... You could spend $3000 on an extended warranty, financing 100%, cancel warranty, receive $3000 cash back, then skip on the deal.
Ford Credit refused to refund the money to me and instead put it towards the loan principal instead.
Same thing happened to me, but I understand why they do it. They dont want to give cash back to people who might skip with the car. What do you care if they apply it to the principal anyway, it shortens the amount of months you owe anyway. Seems like there are bigger fish to be upset about in life.
"Same thing happened to me, but I understand why they do it. They dont want to give cash back to people who might skip with the car. What do you care if they apply it to the principal anyway, it shortens the amount of months you owe anyway. Seems like there are bigger fish to be upset about in life."
Oh, I wasn't that upset. I got a better interest rate from my credit union anyway. But I wasn't impressed with the attitude of the customer service rep.
Don't you realize that your statement
"They dont want to give cash back to people who might skip with the car. "
represents an insult to me? I have never "skipped out" on any financial obligation.
It has nothing to do with Ford credit, all banks do this... including your credit union.. Not trying to defend their phone representative.. that would be your own personal experience..
BTW, I haven't got my check from Honda, either.. you know, for being their "defender/apologist".
I like that color... that's one thing about the 2003/2004 colors, they didn't really offer any "light" colors besides the silver. Looks like things are changing!
In the aftermath of Hurricane Frances, I'm considering something other than a sedan. The streets down here in Fla. got rather flooded and I want to make sure than the next car I buy can handle getting me and my family out of a jam, which in this case meant high water, downed trees, debris and some muddy conditions. Did I mention the lack of available gasoline?
So, realistically, how does the CR-V handle pools of deep water? By deep I mean sometimes 10 to 12 inches or more.
Sorry, everyone, my post was unclear. I am never insulted by anyone on these forumns ... amused sometimes, but never insulted.
I meant that Ford Credit was insulting me by not trusting me. Considering that a loan is a document involving trust, it doesn't make a lot of sense, unless the law required they act as they did.
However, be advised that the CR-V is not designed for serious off roading. It does not have limited slip axles, and cannot be locked into 4WD mode. I'm not sure if this is the vehicle for the situation you describe. Of the 2005 model SUVs, for true 4WD you would have to go to Jeep Liberty, Toyota RAV4, Suzuki Vitara, or a Subaru. This is not an enclusive list by any means. The 2005 Escape is no longer a true 4WD; it is an automated system starting this year.
Having said that, I have been in mud and snow with the CR-V and it handles fine.
It's dangerous to drive at all, because a man hole cover could be missing and you'd drive right into it because you can't see the ground.
Avoid running water at all costs because you could get swept away by a lot less than 10-12" of it.
It's not really safe to drive in those conditions at all.
If you want yet another reason, the CR-V has an alloy block and isn't going to like being hot and then dipped in cold running water, a recipe for disaster basically. An iron block will fare better.
What the Czar has done is conveniently cropped out of this picture, is the flat bed truck winching this D.O.A. CRV from behind out of the muck and mire. One wonders how long it took the Czar to repack the bearings, replace the electrical system and knock off the barnacles before it was put back on the road?
I was wondering abou that. I know that most bearings are "sealed" these days. But what about the dirty mucky water when it floods. Don't you ruin the bearings running through deep water?
Just don't let any water get in your intake. If it does, your engine will stall suddenly.
Water doesn't compress like air does. )
We had a fun run in the Pine Barrens and this guy in an XT6 got stuck. He had an aftermarket intake and it sucked in air from a very low point in the engine bay.
Actually it sucked in air and water.
Stalled right away. We towed him out, pulled the plugs, ran the starter to eject the water from the spark plug holes. Used WD40 for good measure, the WD does stand for Water Displacing.
Any how once it was all clear we reconnected the plugs and it started right up!
Rather funny, but I wouldn't want to know what that would do to your ECU or what sort of error codes an OBDII system would throw nowadays.
Apparently it happened to a guy in a Trooper the time before I went, and he bent a piston (!). That was not quite the quick fix the Subaru was fortunate to get...
My 2002 CR-V with 42,000 miles lost the AC compressor this weekend....all while on a 500 mile road trip in south (ie - hot & humid) Texas. The bad part is that when the A/C went out we were still 300 miles from home.
I took it in to get it looked at and at a private mechanic (Honda Specialist) they wanted $875 to do the repair. At the local Honda Dealer (Not where I bought it) they wanted $1300 for the repair.
The dealer called Honda and asked if they would help out on the cost at all even though it was out of warranty. Honda picked up 1/2 the cost.
So the repair cost me $650 but I will get a 12 month, 12000 mile warranty on the new parts.
If I had bought an EW for $850 I would have recouped 80% of my cost already.
oh well....I'm gonna hate my credit card bill this month
Keep that drippy stuff out of your intake. I haven't been THAT adventurous yet myself ... and do they even make a snorkel that fits anything but a Jeep? ;-)
Hey, now! I've got video of that crossing. No tow trucks, no strings, and no computer graphics!
Lots of praying to the gods of ground clearance, though.
My mechanic noticed that I've scraped up the inside of a rim and recommended that I get the tires balanced with the next service (just in case). Dunno if it happened while bumping over the rocks in that stream or bumping over the other rocks at Paragon.
Looking under the hood, I probably had water within 8 inches of the air intake. Not a big deal considering that it probably splashed up that high.
When dealing with standing water, you have a little more wiggle room. The "bow" of the CR-V should create a wake in front of the vehicle. You want to maintain that wake keeping your speed below 5 mph, but fast enough that you keep the water moving in front of the car.
Sorry to hear about your repair.. Glad to hear that Honda helped out some... Warranty or not, A/C compressors shouldn't be going south at 42K and less than three years old..
I did buy the extended warranty just a couple of months ago... My CR-V will hit 36K this month, and part of my motivation in purchasing the warranty is to keep me from trading it in. I really NEED to drive this one for seven years.
I hate admitting that, because I always recommend NOT buying them.
Get a cow-catcher aka rhino bar and mount it upside down at the front, that'll give you a good "bow".
Look at it this way, Honda gives you no roadside assistance with a new car. If you get a 7 year warranty, you get full roadside assistance. That would cost you $497 from AAA or a similar club.
That alone might cover half or more of the warranty cost, if you want it.
Did you ask Honda if you purchase the warranty TODAY for $850 (perhaps a bit more) if they would cover the entire repair? It would cost you more but also cover more of your vehicle for longer.
Will somebody update me about Honda extended warranty. I got 32K already on my CR-V EX 03 and my warranty will expire at 36K. Does it make sense to buy extended warranty? How much it cost? Where and when can I buy it?
You can get a quote online.. and even purchase online.. Or, you can get the quote and then ask your local dealer to match it.. Curry is a dealer in the Northeast.. its all legit.
You definitely have to buy it before yours runs out, if you want it..
On my '02, I paid $1010.00 for the 7yr/100K warranty.. My car had 29K when I bought it. Not sure if the warranty on the '03 will be the same price or not (might depend on if they cover oil change fires..LOL).
Odd, it seems like the gas mileage improved for the 5 speed manual, it's now 21/26.
Wasn't it 21/25 for MY2004? What changed, I wonder?
The auto is 22/27, slight improvement from the 22/26 last year, likely due to the 5th ratio on the tranny. I bet it's taller. Should be quieter with lower revs, too.
SE has heated seats and heated side mirrors. This feature is very nice, not only does it melt ice off, it also keeps the mirror clear when it rains.
Sorry... I just bought mine this spring.. Your points are correct, but...
Things change.. and I didn't buy mine until I had 29K miles, because I have CCBD.. and I'm liable to trade at any time.. Plus, the extra cost by buying later is relatively small..
I bought a car for my wife last winter that really stretched our auto budget, so buying the warranty is my "crutch" to keep myself from getting another car... As long as mine is under warranty, no reason to sell it..
For us.. we already have AAA, which has other benefits besides roadside assistance.. That COULD be a benefit for some people.. But, in 22 years of driving Hondas, I've only been stranded twice.
I think the cost of the warranty is very fair, and Honda backs it up.. There have much more incentive to keep you as a satisfied customer than a 3rd party insurance company.
That said, I'm not recommending it.. It very much depends on your own situation and tolerance for repair bills... The best part about a Honda is it's reliability.. I had other reasons for buying as outlined above.
So, I can go either way... if you need the roadside assistance plan, that does defray some of the cost..
I'm just hitting 36K this week, so I'll let you know if I have to use it.
It may help cure CCBD, since you're more likely to keep it longer now. ;-)
We use the included roadside assistance for lockouts and flats, stuff like that. We cancelled AAA, over 7 years that would have cost us $497, basically half the cost of the warranty.
It may help cure CCBD, since you're more likely to keep it longer now. ;-)
Yeah.. that really was the main reason.. It doesn't mean I won't swap my wife's car earlier than I should, but it should keep me in mine for quite a while.
The 7yr/100K part fits my driving habits almost exactly, so that makes it a better value for me, as well.
The only thing.. If I do keep it for seven years, I will have been driving a CR-V for 10.5 years. For someone who likes sporty cars, that just doesn't seem right...
Someone else in my household thinks that is a bad idea.. I won't say who... Plus, that means something has to stay outside all winter.. I hate having a garage AND scraping windows.. When I first got married, we had three cars between us, and my daily driver always sat out.. That holds me back more than anything (except for you know who).
You leave the Miata outside? Either way, its a pain.. If I get a 3rd car, it has to go in the garage, or sit in the driveway behind one of the other two cars... It is kind of a pain..
It was worth it when I had the 911.. but, after I got married, that got traded on an Acura for you know who...
Comments
This is just the sort of mind job I do on myself to motivate a healthier lifestyle.
I'd also like to see Honda get rid of the exposed rear door hinge. There were 2 in the 1st gen, 1 left now, maybe they'll hide both for the 3rd generation? LOL
-juice
Yeah, but things have to be sacrificed to do that. In the CR-V, you'd have to raise the cargo floor, or lower the rear differential.
Other's like the Escape and VUE must make do with a donut spare. (These vehicles have good towing capability, but, if you pop a tire, you're up a creek.)
I expect the Forester is able to shoehorn a full-size spare because of it's relatively short wheelbase, matched to a long back end. Good for the spare tire, not so good for departure angles or backseat space.
It's all about trade-offs.
Honda will use the Michelin PAX run-flat system on the new Ody, it's neat but also a little bit controversial (tire costs, who can service it, etc). Wonder if that'll make it to the CR-V.
Ody uses the spare tire well for a lazy susan, neat idea. CR-V would just eliminate the rear-mounted spare.
-juice
I think we'll see the lazy susan before we see the PAX tires.
-juice
I've never taken the full loan term to pay off a debt. I paid of my 6yr loan on a 93 civic in 3yrs and a 4 year loan on an '01 subaru in 3 years also - maybe I should just do 36 month loans...? but that's another topic. On loans I have had, as long as I didn't pay the loan off in the first 90 days, there was no penalty whatsoever. Call the toll free number for your lender and ask them your "payoff amount". They will give you a figure and a time frame. For instance, they will say your payoff amount is $13,521.15 if we receive your payment in full by September 21, 2004. Then you can write them a check in that amount, include a letter to that effect with your account number on it, save a copy of your letter, and pop it into a certified-return-receipt envelope. Voila! You're paid off. You will eventually have your title.
As for continuing to pay but in larger amounts. Just write a bigger check. It should go to toward the principle but if you want peace of mind, call your lender. I'm overpaying two car loans now by $100 per month and never bothered to check with my lenders - eLoan and Subaru/Chase automotive. You wind up saving hundreds by paying off early so why not? I saved $1500 in interest on a 6 year 9.9% loan (I was 23 and very naive with no credit - whatdya want!? ;-)
As for when to payoff... Hm... Well, most people I know like to owe nothing on the car by the time the warranty wares out. For a Honda, that's after 3 years (36K mile). That way, you don't have to worry about $350 car payment AND a repair bill in the same month. As for residual value... uh... guess it depends on the car. If you had a Ford, you'd best pay off ASAP. On a Honda... using Edmund's depreciation of about $5000 in year one and about $1500 per year for the next few years... It really depends how much you finance, the terms of your loan, etc but in a very rough mock up I think the payoff is best made within 3 years. If your continue to pay a loan, it's likely you'd be (and would have been) paying off your principle slower than the rate of depreciation. Then come year four - you'd have car payments on a car that is worth less than you owe and is no longer under warranty. Hm... Blach!
Elissa
Ford Credit gave me a *heck* of a time when I prepaid some principal and that was my saving grace. They grudgingly accepted but lost a customer forever because by then it was way too late.
Boy, don't remind me...
-juice
I think they are required as long as there is a balance on the loan.
If they didn't, they would end up with a higher percentage of the deal financed, and the loan may then not meet the underwriting requirements.
Also, it reduces the chance of fraud... You could spend $3000 on an extended warranty, financing 100%, cancel warranty, receive $3000 cash back, then skip on the deal.
regards,
kyfdx
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Same thing happened to me, but I understand why they do it. They dont want to give cash back to people who might skip with the car. What do you care if they apply it to the principal anyway, it shortens the amount of months you owe anyway. Seems like there are bigger fish to be upset about in life.
My 2 cents
Two Year
Oh, I wasn't that upset. I got a better interest rate from my credit union anyway. But I wasn't impressed with the attitude of the customer service rep.
Don't you realize that your statement
"They dont want to give cash back to people who might skip with the car. "
represents an insult to me? I have never "skipped out" on any financial obligation.
I don't think any insult was intended. It was someone's suggestion of what Ford's rationale is.
tidester, host
My only point:
It has nothing to do with Ford credit, all banks do this... including your credit union..
Not trying to defend their phone representative.. that would be your own personal experience..
BTW, I haven't got my check from Honda, either.. you know, for being their "defender/apologist".
regards,
kyfdx
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Thank you for playing defense there on my behalf.
Two Year
P.S. kyfdx
I think Caveat thinks I insulted his honor, not you. So don't wait to long for that check from Honda just yet
So, realistically, how does the CR-V handle pools of deep water? By deep I mean sometimes 10 to 12 inches or more.
Sorry, everyone, my post was unclear. I am never insulted by anyone on these forumns ... amused sometimes, but never insulted.
I meant that Ford Credit was insulting me by not trusting me. Considering that a loan is a document involving trust, it doesn't make a lot of sense, unless the law required they act as they did.
However, be advised that the CR-V is not designed for serious off roading. It does not have limited slip axles, and cannot be locked into 4WD mode. I'm not sure if this is the vehicle for the situation you describe. Of the 2005 model SUVs, for true 4WD you would have to go to Jeep Liberty, Toyota RAV4, Suzuki Vitara, or a Subaru. This is not an enclusive list by any means. The 2005 Escape is no longer a true 4WD; it is an automated system starting this year.
Having said that, I have been in mud and snow with the CR-V and it handles fine.
Avoid running water at all costs because you could get swept away by a lot less than 10-12" of it.
It's not really safe to drive in those conditions at all.
If you want yet another reason, the CR-V has an alloy block and isn't going to like being hot and then dipped in cold running water, a recipe for disaster basically. An iron block will fare better.
-juice
I've been offroading in my 1999 model and taken it through streams. On my last trip to Paragon, I crossed moving H2O about 12 inches deep.
I don't recommend going any deeper than this. FWIW, Slugline has experienced flooding in Houston. He reports fairly good performance from his rig.
We be cool. Hey it could have been a lot worse, we could have questioned why you bought a Ford in the first place! LOL!!!!!
Two Year
Is there a Ford Credit support group?
-juice
-juice
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Two Year
Water doesn't compress like air does.
We had a fun run in the Pine Barrens and this guy in an XT6 got stuck. He had an aftermarket intake and it sucked in air from a very low point in the engine bay.
Actually it sucked in air and water.
Stalled right away. We towed him out, pulled the plugs, ran the starter to eject the water from the spark plug holes. Used WD40 for good measure, the WD does stand for Water Displacing.
Any how once it was all clear we reconnected the plugs and it started right up!
Rather funny, but I wouldn't want to know what that would do to your ECU or what sort of error codes an OBDII system would throw nowadays.
Apparently it happened to a guy in a Trooper the time before I went, and he bent a piston (!). That was not quite the quick fix the Subaru was fortunate to get...
-juice
I took it in to get it looked at and at a private mechanic (Honda Specialist) they wanted $875 to do the repair. At the local Honda Dealer (Not where I bought it) they wanted $1300 for the repair.
The dealer called Honda and asked if they would help out on the cost at all even though it was out of warranty. Honda picked up 1/2 the cost.
So the repair cost me $650 but I will get a 12 month, 12000 mile warranty on the new parts.
If I had bought an EW for $850 I would have recouped 80% of my cost already.
oh well....I'm gonna hate my credit card bill this month
If you had the warranty yours would be the most perfect truck ever.
I've seen snorkels on other SUVs like the Land Cruiser, maybe the H1.
-juice
Lots of praying to the gods of ground clearance, though.
My mechanic noticed that I've scraped up the inside of a rim and recommended that I get the tires balanced with the next service (just in case). Dunno if it happened while bumping over the rocks in that stream or bumping over the other rocks at Paragon.
Looking under the hood, I probably had water within 8 inches of the air intake. Not a big deal considering that it probably splashed up that high.
When dealing with standing water, you have a little more wiggle room. The "bow" of the CR-V should create a wake in front of the vehicle. You want to maintain that wake keeping your speed below 5 mph, but fast enough that you keep the water moving in front of the car.
I did buy the extended warranty just a couple of months ago... My CR-V will hit 36K this month, and part of my motivation in purchasing the warranty is to keep me from trading it in. I really NEED to drive this one for seven years.
I hate admitting that, because I always recommend NOT buying them.
regards,
kyfdx
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Look at it this way, Honda gives you no roadside assistance with a new car. If you get a 7 year warranty, you get full roadside assistance. That would cost you $497 from AAA or a similar club.
That alone might cover half or more of the warranty cost, if you want it.
-juice
You can get a quote online.. and even purchase online.. Or, you can get the quote and then ask your local dealer to match it.. Curry is a dealer in the Northeast.. its all legit.
You definitely have to buy it before yours runs out, if you want it..
On my '02, I paid $1010.00 for the 7yr/100K warranty.. My car had 29K when I bought it. Not sure if the warranty on the '03 will be the same price or not (might depend on if they cover oil change fires..LOL).
regards,
kyfdx
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http://www.hondanews.com/CatID1000?mid=2004091059654&mime=asc
Quite a few small changes and a few notable including standard VSC, 5 speed auto replacing the 4, and standard 16" wheels.
CR-V remains an excellent choice for a SUV, though often overlooked.
1. You get roadside assistance, kyfdx will have that for 7 full years for instance.
2. You generally pay less if you buy it within the first year/12k miles.
Great news about the 2005s, competition improves the breed.
-juice
Wasn't it 21/25 for MY2004? What changed, I wonder?
The auto is 22/27, slight improvement from the 22/26 last year, likely due to the 5th ratio on the tranny. I bet it's taller. Should be quieter with lower revs, too.
SE has heated seats and heated side mirrors. This feature is very nice, not only does it melt ice off, it also keeps the mirror clear when it rains.
-juice
Things change.. and I didn't buy mine until I had 29K miles, because I have CCBD.. and I'm liable to trade at any time.. Plus, the extra cost by buying later is relatively small..
I bought a car for my wife last winter that really stretched our auto budget, so buying the warranty is my "crutch" to keep myself from getting another car... As long as mine is under warranty, no reason to sell it..
For us.. we already have AAA, which has other benefits besides roadside assistance.. That COULD be a benefit for some people.. But, in 22 years of driving Hondas, I've only been stranded twice.
I think the cost of the warranty is very fair, and Honda backs it up.. There have much more incentive to keep you as a satisfied customer than a 3rd party insurance company.
That said, I'm not recommending it.. It very much depends on your own situation and tolerance for repair bills... The best part about a Honda is it's reliability.. I had other reasons for buying as outlined above.
So, I can go either way... if you need the roadside assistance plan, that does defray some of the cost..
I'm just hitting 36K this week, so I'll let you know if I have to use it.
regards,
kyfdx
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We use the included roadside assistance for lockouts and flats, stuff like that. We cancelled AAA, over 7 years that would have cost us $497, basically half the cost of the warranty.
YMMV of course.
-juice
Yeah.. that really was the main reason.. It doesn't mean I won't swap my wife's car earlier than I should, but it should keep me in mine for quite a while.
The 7yr/100K part fits my driving habits almost exactly, so that makes it a better value for me, as well.
The only thing.. If I do keep it for seven years, I will have been driving a CR-V for 10.5 years. For someone who likes sporty cars, that just doesn't seem right...
regards,
kyfdx
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-juice
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That's what your CR-V is for.
-juice
It was worth it when I had the 911.. but, after I got married, that got traded on an Acura for you know who...
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