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Dodge Dakota Stalling and Dying Problems

135

Comments

  • I recently bought a 98 4x4 dakota slt with 181k (=X) on it...it ran fine until i brought it home. now when i start it, it starts up then starts to die down then it ether revs up again and is fine or stalls. Any help?
  • For many stalling at idle problems from a dead battery, try disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes and then reconnect it. Sometimes, the computer gets a low voltage from a nearly dead battery or a weak one used to try to start the engine. With electronics, an improper voltage will give unpredictable results - the radio also. Disconnecting will force the computer reset to basic program that has a correct idle and then it will reprogram while you are driving.

    Also the Idle Air Control (IAC) has caused me a couple of problems and cleaning it with Carburetor cleaner helped for a while. I finally sprang for a new one. I would first check the IAC for erratic idle problems.

    For stalling while driving, my 92 dodge, 5.2 L 150k hard miles, had the problem caused by an internal computer connection at the cable/computer connector. It would stall at idle or while turning a corner at 25MPH or doing 70 MPH straight on the highway. I replaced all the usual suspects- IAC TPS, CSS, Coil before I finally found a used computer on EBay. That fixed that problem.
    I realized it was the computer because when I tried to restart the engine and turned on the ignition, the check engine light would not come on as it normally does and then go out. I would go to the engine bay and wiggle different wires and noticed that when I moved the computer connection, the check engine light would sometimes come on and only then the engine would start. I checked all the connectors and found it had to be in the computer connection under the epoxy(?) filler where I could not get to fix it.

    Beyond these bits of info, good luck. (I couldn't read the whole thread, especially that guy that wrote the book.)

    I realize it is an old thread, but I hope this info may help someone.

    Dave
  • I have a 94 Dakota 3.9 automatic 4x4 that dies at will.There is no spark at the plugs,no codes shown fuel pump working. I replaced cam sensor,crank sensor,cap and rotor,plug wires.Checked the splices under relay box and chassis grounds. Truck will run in driveway all day but when you drive it, it stalls.If I disconnect the battery to reset it will start but stall again sometimes within 5 feet sometimes within 2 miles.Last time it stalled I disconnected the cam sensor and plugged it back in and it started.Checked harness and found a heavy guage dark blue wire was running between the intake manifold and valve cover was chaffed and grounding on the cover. Repaired wire still loses spark.I,m at a loss on what to look for.Any suggestoins would be greatly appreciated!
  • I had the same problem with my 1990 3.9 v6. Turned out to be the distributor itself or the moduel within. Auto Zone sells them for around $75. Been working ever since.
  • I love my truck, however, after a few weeks of owning it, I left it parked for two days without starting, it all of a sudden wouldn't start, as if it were out of gas, then it would drive as if nothing and die out, wait a day and it was fine. I took it in twice to the mechanic, first time he replaced a sensor, worked for about an hour then it started again with the same issue of starting when ever it felt like and the rest of the time not staying on. Next the fuel pump was replaced, again it worked for two weeks then I didn't turn it on for two days and it is back at it again. Not sure what to do, neither can my mechanic. If others have had this problem and resolved it, that information would be helpful..thank you
  • alanartalanart Posts: 7
    This Dakota has only 30K mi., from North Dakota. I think it has multiple, intermittent problems that cause stalling under all conditions. (sometimes restarts immediately, sometimes after an hour, and sometimes not until I have replaced some random part..or two and fiddled with it for a few hours.) I repaired an intermittent connection to the fuel pump, this helped the no-fuel stalling condition, now I get an intermittent no-spark condition (and occasional no-power to FP cond.). Since I have owned this truck (6 mo.) I have replaced the fuel pump module, fuel pump connector, spark plugs, cam pos sensor, crank pos sensor, coil, cleaned the IAC ports, fixed the 3-1 connection in the harness under the fuse box, checked the grounds, blah blah blah...I run the OBD codes and always get 12, 55 (normal). Next I'm trying a new used ECM from a truck of the same specs and year. Right now, its in my driveway and it won't start, has spark once in a while. I know if I just keep fiddling with it, it will eventually start, but then it will stall again eventually. This is the worst vehicle I have ever owned. I have had all sorts of cars and trucks and I can diagnose and repair problems very well, but this Dakota's problems are very deep and mysterious. Any comments or encouragement are appreciated.
  • Another PCM probably won't fix the problem. I put in a reman PCM and it died after 235 miles same problem-NO SPARK! I did check the dist. as was recomended to me but didn't replace it. I think I'm going to pull it out and check the pulse ring,gear,and roll pin in it. My 94 has a different type dist. compared to the 90 so that's why I didn't replace it. When my 94 dies, if I disconnect the neg. battery cable or unplug the cam sensor and plug it back in the damn thing starts. I've traced the wire diagram and found that the cam,crank,and speed sensors are all tied together(haven't replaced the speed sensor). Never thrown a code and never acted up. I too have the same codes 12-55.Hope this helps,let me know if you have any luck.
  • elwellelwell Posts: 6
    With my 1990 Dakota I had similar stalling problems. After cheking a the basics I found that it was the distibutor shaft. After changing it out I have not had any more stalling. Aprox. $75 at Autozone.
  • My Dodge will shut off while driving. I will be driving along at speeds under 80km/h and she will lose acceleration and shut off.

    I have changed the plugs and wires. Checked the coils, changed the distributor and rotor button. Even swapped computers with an identical truck to see if that was the problem.

    Once she shuts off she will not start. After letting her sit for a while she will eventually start.

    There also seems to be no fire on the plugs after she does this.

    I am not sure what could be the problem. I am at my end with this truck.
  • seleneselene Posts: 10
    I have a 93 Dakota 3.9. When it quit, I found the problem was the corroded connection in the harness at the left front of the engine compartment. Repaired that! Now, it stumbles and misses when the ambient temp is cold and the engine is cold. After it warms up, it runs fine. I think I may have a leaking intake manifold gasket. Sound reasonable? I plan on changing it, but was wondering if I should change the bolts also? It seems that if they are grade 5 or 8 bolts and aren't cracked, I should be able to reuse them. Any advice or thoughts on my two problems? Thanks. Selena
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    edited July 2011
    First of all, you need to specify year, model and engine size if you want factual
    information. I have a Haynes service manual for my '98 Dodge Dakota 5.2L
    (318) V8. The wiring diagram indicates various sensors on this type of engine
    that provide information to Power Control Module (PCM) or engine management
    computer. In my model there is something called an ASD (auto shutdown relay)
    which is controlled by the PCM. For the PCM to operate this relay (which kills
    the fuel pump/injectors via the Fuel pump relay) AND the power side of the
    ignition coil, a sensor has to be either out of range or faulty.

    It's hard to make any accurate diagnosis of your problem with virtually no
    info to go on, but one place to start is the camshaft sensor. This is a Hall effect
    (solid state) sensor that detects the camshaft "lobes" to determine the firing
    pulse and spark for each cylinder. These have been known to go "wacko"
    where they work sometimes and not at other times.

    I had a 1999 Dodge Ram V8 that would run for 15 minutes,
    then die and wouldn't restart for another half hour or so,
    and then run again for 10-15 minutes and die again and this was
    a repeatable problem. Turned out to be a defective camshaft sensor.
    This is located in the distributor (under the rotor) and can be easily removed
    and replaced with a screwdriver.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    I had a friend with a 1999 Ram 318 V8 that would start up and then die after
    about 10 to 15 minutes of running and then wouldn't start again until left
    for an hour or longer. No engine codes. Checked everything..fuel rail pressure
    all the obvious things...he had it towed into the shop..they changed the crankshaft sensor first..didn't fix the symptom, so then they changed the cam
    sensor (the one inside the distributor that replaces the old fashioned points) and
    that fixed the problem.
    These are solid state "Hall effect" sensors that detect a magnetic cam lobe
    and generator a timing pulse to the PCM. Once in a while they go defective
    in a strange way, but not completely. I carry a spare one around in my
    '98 Dakota, just in case mine starts acting up like that.

    So far, I've only had the stalling problem in very cold weather and only when
    going from reverse to drive. Don't know what that one is about yet..
    whether it's transmission temp related, engine temp related or some other
    critical sensor that shuts it down.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    I have the same problem with my 98 Dakota 318 v8.
    I have heard that these "hall effect" solid state sensors they use in the distributor
    for providing timing pulses to the PCM are known for "whacko" symptoms.
    My 98 Dakota V8 stalls in reverse also in very cold weather, but not after
    the engine warms up and it only stalls once at that..as soon as I put the
    gear selector from R to D, it cuts out. Starts ok after that and I can drive
    off..been like that for several years now..I was thinking it was a sensor, but
    not sure which one, since the 46RE auto transmission used on my truck has
    a temperature sensor, but it is a thermistor, which is a simple sensor compared
    to these hall effect camshaft sensors.
    I have a spare, so I think I will replace it and see if that solves the problem.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    Wow! another long and expensive story. Vibrations at speed can be from
    a number of sources..tires not being properly balanced or sidewalls on the
    tires deforming at certain speeds causing a vibration at only a certain speed
    and not at other speeds. I had a set of tires once that did that.
    The other posibility would be u-joints on the driveshaft.
  • cmeistercmeister Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    Hi

    I have a 99 Dodge Dakota 5.2L. standard. Recently it has been stalling when I have slowed at stop lights or stop signs or when I have going slow around a corner. I have replaced the battery and cleaned the IAC. I was reading on either this forum or another one and read that it could be the Vehicle Speed Sensor. It also runs really really rich. Also both of the mechanics that I got to scan my truck got a no data reading. If anybody could give me any other ideas of what it could be that would be great.

    I know this has probably been brought up on these forums before but I can't find it anymore so I apologize for repeating the thread. Maybe somebody could give me the link to another thread that may be able to help me.

    Thanks,
  • roundsddroundsdd Posts: 10
    edited July 2011
    Really sounds like the IAC. I cleaned mine for a while and had to go for a new one. See Post #105 for my problems. Could also be the throttle position sensor (TPS), but I'd go for a new IAC if it cleared up after cleaning and then came back. The IAC gets sluggish and doesn't operate as fast as it should and the engine stalls. If cleaning the IAC didn't help at all, I would try a TPS next.

    Maybe the EGR .
    I also replaced the EGR and the engine ran a lot better at high end. I didn't notice the problem because the computer would adjust for it. I noticed that at 80 MPH towing my boat up hill and floored, it would backfire because it was too lean. A new EGR fixed that.
    Good luck with it.
    Dave
  • alanartalanart Posts: 7
    check the fuel pressure and the TPS. Either one will cause these symptoms.
  • mender2mender2 Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Dakota 3.9 engine. Run fine except when I pull my travel trailer. After a few miles, about 10, the engine stalls and won't idle. If I keep the reves up to 1500-1800 it runs ok, but not lower. If I let it sit for 15-20 minutes it will idle OK. When pulling trailer the temp gage never goes over 1/2, where it usually runs. I have changed plugs and wires and the mechanics can't find any problem, and there are no error codes. I didn't see any issues like this on the forum, some simular.
  • roundsddroundsdd Posts: 10
    I would check the IAC and then the EGR valve. I assume you have the throttle open more when pulling the trailer because of the weight. That may cause the problem. An EGR that doesn't close makes it run lean, and hotter, and the computer makes up for it and more exhaust gas is recirculated and dirties things up when you get off the gas. If I remember correctly, both are about $50 and easy to install.
    I had to replace both on my 5.2.
    Good luck,
    Dave
  • alanartalanart Posts: 7
    I would install a fuel pressure gauge, watch it for low press., and the IAC and TPS should also be looked at as suspects, once they are cleared, look at the the crank sensor, cam sensor, MAP, EGR...
  • mender2mender2 Posts: 3
    I will check them out.
  • brdleybrdley Posts: 1
    I have an 05 v-6 Dakota, when I start the truck in the morning it runs very rough for the first 2-3 blocks. The check engine light flashes. After 2-3 blocks it runs smoothly and the light no longer flashes but remains on. The repair shop has replaced the oxygen sensor, the plugs and coils. I am wondering if I have a bad injector. or what else could cause this??? The light has now been off for about a week, but it has done this before and then the issue returns.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Coolant or ambient air temperature sensor?

    IIRC, the O2 sensor is basically "out of the loop" until the engine has warmed up. O2 sensors do not work unless they are hot.
  • let me know if u ever figure it out. im stupped and in same boat and nobody will give me a paddle got one????? my email is [email protected]
  • I work on my buddies 97 Dodge Dakota for him. He said the engine was shaking while at idle a couple months ago. It was missing but only at idle. He somehow decided he needed plugs and wires changed, so we changed them and it ran much better. Just yesterday he stated it was stalling when it went to idle (he had to keep it above 1000 rpms or it would die). It was a clean stall no sputtering which let me to believe it was not gas related. I took off the air intake and cleaned out the butterfly flaps for the intake with carb spray and it fixed it almost immediately. If you get dirt collected in the butterfly flaps and they don't let the correct amount of air/fuel mixture in it can stall. For some people having problems with missing and stalling try this it worked for my buddies truck.
  • Im new to edmunds, i have a 2002 dakota slt quad cab 4.7 and my issue is, when starting in the morning or 20 to 30 min after shutting of the engine it takes 4 second to start and i get a smell of gas. Also it is runnig rought on idle but has not turned of on me yet, it had the check engine light on for cylinder # 6 so i changed injecter and coil but still runnig rought but the check engine light has not come back....i just got this truck 3 days ago so im new to dodge. HELP
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    The smell of gas would mean that the injectors are working, but the ignition is not coming on instanteously for some reason.
    This would be my guess with no codes present. Changing the coil is the last
    resort..I would change out the camshaft sensor first as these can be tricky to diagnose (hall effect semi conductor) and in some cases they don't always produce a fail code.
    For an engine to run..you need 3 things, compression, fuel charge in the cylinders and a spark at the correct time..it's gotta run.

    Since the coil primary is controlled by the PCM, it needs i/p from the camshaft (and crankshaft sensor) to provide the correct timing for the spark. The PCM
    will pulse the coil primary to produce a spark for the correct plug based
    on the position of the rotor inside the distributor cap. It then goes off to
    the spark plug for the cylinder that is at top dead center after it's compression
    stroke.

    The rest of the ignition system is basically standard, cap, rotor, sparkplug wires and park plugs, so these shouldn't be giving the intermittent symptom
    you are describing.
  • Thank you so much for the info, where is the the crankshaft sensor located on 2002 dakota.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    According to my Haynes manual the crankshaft sensor (V6/V8 is located
    behind the RIGHT cylinder head. It is a hall effect solid state sensor as well
    and detects notches in the flywheel/driveplate. The PCM receives those
    pulses and processes it to control each cylinder's injector. O/P from the
    sensor will fluctuate between 0volts and 5 volts DC.
    To replace it, you have to remove the right front tire and inner splash shield,
    disconnect the wiring harness connector and the bolts that hold it in.

    Not as easy as replacing the hall effect camshaft sensor inside the distributor, which sits on a plastic plate held on with 2 screws.
    On the dakotas, the ASD relay (auto shutdown) will be operated by
    the PCM if it detects any kind of serious fault...and sometimes there
    is no Pxxx code given, because the sensor is flakey but not completely
    dead yet.

    P0300 is no camshaft sensor signal..but this will be a complete failure
    and the check engine light will come on.

    P1391 loss of either camshaft or crankshaft sensor signal.

    Note: these are hall effect semiconductor types of sensors and they can
    have intermittent failures as their o/p depends on sensing a changing magnetic field on the flywheel or inside the distributor.
    (see wikipedia for more information on these).
  • Ok, replaced the crankshaft sensor and still takes about 4 to 5 seconds for the motor turn over also getting strong smell of crude fuel comming out the muffler. so far ive replaced the # 6 injecter,coil and I replaced all 8 plugs acdelco what to do what do. the truck idles rough but drives normal what else can it be, you like obeone canoby your my only hope , before I take it to the dealer and get shafted. Thanks again for all the help your giving me god bless.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    edited August 2011
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    The injectors are running to rich or you don't have a spark at the beginning.

    Try this, take the wire out of the coil that goes to the distributor and find a sparkplug wire
    to fit into it. Connect the sparkplug boot to a spare spark plug and ground the plug against
    the engine somewhere. Have someone crank the engine while you observe for a spark
    right away..within the 1st second. If you do..then the it's the injector system/PCM.

    There are two sensors that control fuel mixture:

    IAT (on the intake manifold) determines the temp of the incoming air and sends a signal
    to the PCM to adjust fuel mixture accordingly.

    MAP (manifold pressure or mass air flow) this one will send a signal to the PCM to
    adjust the mixture as well.
    But don't replace them..you should be able to test them for proper voltage...0 to 5volts.
  • My truck is a 2002 and it has coil packs no distributor, when the truck is cold or bin sitting for 30 min it will take 4 to 5 seconds for it to start holding the key down then i can turn it of and it starts wright away and then runs rough on idle only. Could it be the check valve in the fuel pump i guess when i shut the motor down all the gas goes back to the tank, what do you think?......thank you for your help.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    Ok, you have the GenII engine with a coil for each plug. As far as the fuel
    pump, IF it is the same as the older style Magnum 5.2 V8, you should have
    a pressure regulator down in the fuel pump module. It maintains the
    pressure on the fuel rail. So unless it is faulty, the fuel rail should have
    some pressure on it on all times, when the ignition key is ON,
    typically 45 psi.

    I have an Actron fuel pressure guage (0-100psi) that I use to check mine on occasion.
    These are cheap to buy $15-$20 and come with an instruction folder for
    testing the pressure on the fuel rail test port..the one that has a black
    plastic cap screwed on it.

    Unscrew the protective cap and screw on the hose with the schrader valve fitting onto the rail. If the engine has been sitting for a long time, the pressure will bleed off, but as soon as the ignition key is ON (don't start),
    the fuel pressure should be instanteous..within a half second.

    As soon as you get a reading on the guage, leave it for an hour or so and
    check the pressure again WITHOUT TURNING ON THE KEY OR STARTING,
    it shouldn't drop down that much, if any..that is what they call a leak down
    test and it will give you a relative idea of the pressure regulator valve.

    The fuel pump is controlled by the fuel pump relay in the PDC.

    Note: be careful when attaching/detaching the fuel pressure hose to the fuel rail test port, as some fuel may spray out around the fitting until it is tight. If the fuel rail is still under some pressure, until the schrader valve
    closes tightly on the fuel test port, fuel can spray out on a hot engine..so
    don't do this with a hot engine. They suggest wrapping a rag around
    the test port fitting to catch any fuel spraying out.

    * ALSO*
    My fuel pressure regulator also has a small clear plastic fuel dump hose to dump any fuel in the hose and release the pressure on the guage AFTER the ignition has been turned off, (before the pressure guage fitting is unscrewed from the test port.)

    (They recommend putting the clear plastic fuel dump hose in a container to contain the gas, will be just around 10ml.

    This should at least give you an idea if your problem is fuel pump module related, as replacing the fuel pump module inside the tank is a BIG job
    and an EXPENSIVE one.

    The tank has to be practically empty and you need to drop the tank onto a jackstand support to get at the pump.
    Not a DIY job, in my opinion..so do the testing first..as it is a cheaper
    way of troubleshooting.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    Just checked the fuel pressure at the test port on my 98 Dakota.
    Initially it 0 PSI (sitting overnight) and was 45psi with the ignition key turned on after 1/2 second or so. Turned off the ignition key and
    left the guage on for over an hour.

    Fuel rail pressure dropped down only to 35 psi, so the pressure regulator on mine works just fine.
  • My 99 Dakota with v6 engine, would die and I would get nothing when I turned the key. If I waited a few minute 2-5 it would start. Autozone told me to replace the ignition control monitor, I did it worked fine for a couple of weeks. Now it seems to stall out sitting at a light or driving. Turn the key the engine turns over but will not start, Wait 2-4 minutes and it starts right up may drive 5mile or 30 and stall again. It seems to act like the older vehicles when they would vapor lock. Any one with an idea let me know.
  • What do you mean by "nothing" when turning the key? Starter not
    cranking engine or engine cranking and not attempting to run?

    Never heard of the term "ignition control monitor" on the Dakota.

    Mine doesn't have one...just a camshaft sensor and a crank sensor that picks timing information for the PCM, which controls the fuel injection and the spark.
    Sometimes they are referred to as ECU (Engine control unit)..is that what you mean?

    Have you changed the camshaft sensor, as these are known to have
    intermittent symptoms such as you are describing.
  • mender2mender2 Posts: 3
    edited September 2011
    Regarding the 2002 Dakota stalling problem.
    I have cleaned the IAC and the TPS, replaced Dist. cap and Rotor, plug wires and plugs. The cap and Rotor were very corroded. Runs fine for a few days, now today without pulling the trailer, after I drove 15 miles, stopped for 5 min., drove 4 more miles, the vehicle will not idle. stopped for 30 min, run OK. drove home 20 miles by the time I got close to home Won't idle. I guess the next action is to replace the IAC, then the TPS.
  • I can understand cleaning the IAC motor, which is a motor controlled by
    the PCM to change the idle rpm on the engine when there is additional
    load, such as the A/C compressor coming on....but how did you
    manage to clean the TPS sensor?

    There is nothing to clean on these.

    You can test the TPS with a digital voltmeter, by probing through the
    insulation on the plug between ground and the o/p of the sensor .
    There are 3 pins on this..Gnd/o/p/+5v.

    Take the air cleaner off, turn key on (DO NOT START engine) and operate throttle by hand..if sensor is good, it will read around 0.5v closed throttle and around 4.5volt fully open.

    That's all there is to it. Test it first, you may not need to replace it.
    If the TPS sensor is out of range, you will get a P-0122 or a P-0123,
    otherwise, it's within the range that the PCM accepts.

    As far as the IAC (Idle Air Control) which is a motor, if it is truly faulty,
    you will get a P0505 code (shorted or open condition in one or more
    of the idle air control circuits).
    Taking it off an cleaning it doesn't hurt, but I wouldn't replace it unless
    I know for sure that's what is causing the problem.
  • You can see a video on testing the TPS on YouTube, that might give you some insight, but low fuel pressure is a common cause of no/rough idle. You should get a fuel pressure guage. Maybe change the fuel filter.
  • I tried to get a replacement fuel filter/pressure regulator for mine and the
    aftermarket parts place all told me "no listing" on this. You are forced to
    buy the entire fuel module at a cost of several hundred dollars! What
    a scam! Besides that, you have to drop the tank, and in order to do
    that, you have to have the truck on a hoist with a way of supporting the
    fuel tank.
  • You should get an aftermarket fuel pressure guage and watch it while you re-create the no-idle situation. If it is lower than normal while experiencing idle problem, there's the culprit. Before dropping the tank, check for kinked fuel lines. Isn't there an in-line fuel filter as well as the one in the tank?
  • I'm not the one with the idle problem. I was replying to "mismysilverado"
    who was or still is. Yes, I do have a aftermarket fuel pressure guage and
    Haynes manual on my Dakota, and check my fuel pressure on occasion..no problems there and I don't have a rough idle condition.

    You are right that once the fuel pressure drops below 45psi, the truck will
    stall at some point. There is NO inline fuel filter on the Dakota, (at least
    my 1998), I have checked underneath.

    As far as the stalling condition he mentioned, the ASD and the Fuel pump
    relay are controlled by the PCM. The ASD shuts down the injectors and
    the ignition coil or coils and the Fuel pump relay controls the fuel pump.
    If the PCM senses loss of timing from either the Crank or Cam sensors,
    it will shut down both.
  • I got my fuel pump on ebay for 200 dollars and its an acdelco you cant beat that, also if you dont care of the brand advaced auto has them for 180 or 190 dollars check it out.
  • Thanks for the info. The only problem is with that is that you have to order
    them ahead of time and carry one with you in the truck at all times..otherwise, if the fuel pump fails on the road, it's towed into the nearest repair garage of your choice and the fuel pump is replaced at
    the garage's price, which will be a lot higher than e-bay.

    Based on my Dakota's past history of failure, I carry certain spare parts
    with me in the truck at all times such as:
    cam sensor,
    wheel bearing hub
    spare injector
    and of course fuses, a OBDII code reader and a Haynes manual.

    This year, I've added a spare TPS sensor after having transmission shifting
    issues which turned out to be FINALLY a TSS sensor on the transmission.

    I don't know if this is another one of those hall effect sensors, but for a
    while it wasn't providing any clues (codes) and I had a lot of high rpm
    hard (pressure) upshifts, until finally one day, the check engine light
    came on and I read the code for the TSS (Transmission Speed Sensor).
  • If i have to replace the crank and cam shaft sensors do they have to be oem?
  • No, not necessarily.
    I have a spare cam sensor ($30) in my glove compartment, which
    is an aftermarket NieHoff AL437.
    My spare TPS sensor is a STANDARD, (standardbrand.com)
  • Thank you I started with the cheapest fix and it worked. I could not believe how dirty the butterfly was.
  • I too am in the same boat. Mine is a 92 dakota with the 3.9 auto with 221,000 miles on it it had been running fine with no rough idle or any thing obvious. it would just die some times at idle sometimes under power on the interstate and sumtimes when slowing down. it usually restarts easily but some times it is a little stubborn. it might do it once aday up to f times a day or it may go for weeks with out stalling. its as if some thing just turned to motor off. when it runs it is smoth and has no performance issues. it just intermittantly dies for no apparent reason. I ave checked engine code and come up with no problems in computer, I have recently changed out gas tank, filter, new batt had alternator tested every thing looks good and tests fine but it still stalls intermittantly........HELP
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