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Dodge Dakota Stalling and Dying Problems



  • elwellelwell Posts: 6
    I'll post this again. I was very glad when my Daktoa nightmare ended and it was not an easy troubleshoot. BUT. Mine is a 1990 3.9 V6 with auto...180000mi. Yea it started dying out and became more and more frequent. It would start back up after a few mins. Many dangerous stalls in traffic. Turned out to be the distributor and module within. $60 at autozone. Running great ever since!
  • rtjmortjmo Posts: 2

    I am with you on this one. Never own another Chrysler product again. So wish I had traded when they had the cash for clunkers deal. Now guess I will sell it to the junk yard. Sorry about yours, I certainly know how frustrating it is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • So anybody have any answer to my situation.... a 90 v6 isn't the same type engine.
  • Hey any news on how to fix the problem
  • Howdy everybuddy!!

    I have a dodge dakota with a world of hurt. Let me tell ya'll a story...

    I've just had (2 weeks ago) a "quieter" muffler put on my 'Kota so as not to wake up my neighbors any more. I was also told that my rear end was going out and that I should use it until it just starts acting plain silly. Also, I told the mechanic that I was having surging issues in the morning pulling out of the driveway. He told me it was the IAC solenoid (motor) (located behind and on the throttle body by the distributor cap). I have somewhat above average mechanic skills (I have owned a Dakota for 10 years, I think that would make anybody and above average mechanic, ya'll agree? :P ) and I bought one at the local parts place and installed it after giving the throttle body a complete cleaning. (Used only throttle body cleaner and did not spray the MAP sensor, TPS sensor, or the IAC solenoid to clean them).

    The surging kind of went away but was not perfect. But, what the hey, it's running and I got to get to work to pay the bills.

    Welp, work sent me out to Jasper last Tuesday (from Houston) and I really didn't want to go, but they pay drive time, so I went anyways. BIG MISTAKE.

    This is where the story gets good...

    So I'm driving up whatever road from I 59 to Jasper and my truck starts making a rusty bits and pieces noise (kind of like those old little kid marble pop up vacuum cleaners) under my rear passenger seat and it's hesitating and bogging down really bad. So much so that at it times it stalls and I have to pull over to the shoulder and let it rest a minute or two before it reluctantly starts up. I have an almost year old alternator from Azone installed so I'm starting to think a bad fuel pump (3 years old) or plugged up cat or muffler. But no back fires as of yet.

    I make it to my job, finish it and work now has me going to Dallas. I take my truck to O'Reily's for a check engine code (they don't scan vehicles BTW, they said go to Autozone) I was going to warranty out my plugs, caps, and rotors when the lady behind the counter had asked if I had even checked the wires for continuity. I said no, and went back out to my truck, got my volt/ohm meter and started playing with the plug wires. Plug wires will not give continuity, but they will give resisitance and as all wires are various lengths, not one will be the same as the other. So, the only thing I could check was for breaks in the wire. I stuck the red lead in one end of one plug wire and stuck the black lead in the other end of the same plug wire. I started making waves and circles and various other shapes and angles one could make with a plug wire. None of them, including the coil wire brought the resistance up to an open circuit. I went back in, bought another can of throttle body cleaner (as I had bought one 2 days prior to do the throttle body cleaning as mentioned above) and emptied the entire can into the intake manifold (airhat off of course and straight down both barrels with the truck manually revved by hand (looking from front, left side accelerator cable) naturally I didn't stand in front of the truck while doing this ;) ) That lasted for awhile (30 minutes of driving) but it started acting up like before.

    Note: I have had an occasional misfire in cylinder 3 and 4 and it's brought up a trouble code. But it was very infrequent and once I let the truck rest it never happened again for like another month. Just some extra information in case this story might be similar to yours. Also, pulling out of my work's warehouse, I would on rare occasions, get that bogged down engine symptom.

    Now I'm driving to Dallas and it's really acting up. I'm getting more frequent missing and bogging down and it's trying to stall on me. I can step on the gas pedal with little change to what's going on. It eventually gets itself out of what it was doing or it stalls. Which by now, I've found out I can put the thing in neutral and start it all the while I'm coasting down the freeway with no steering assistance from the steering pump. I pull into the Azone along the highway and they pull up the codes and they read "primary, secondary coil failure; random misfire; misfires in 2,3,4,6". Azone guy bets bottom dollar the coil is bad and this is the problem. I can't help but agree.

    So I buy the coil, run over to the Wal-mart next door, park the truck under a lamp (it's about 8 p.m. now) and run inside to get myself some tasty beverages and snacks for the chore ahead. I also buy one of those fits all 3/8 socket wrench and socket things, has the alligator on the top of the package.

    NOTE: I have to say that the wrench actually worked. I used it on the belt tensioner to take the belt off and it didn't mess up the socket. I used it all over and as far as I can say, the thing works. It wouldn't work on say some of the smaller nuts from like a 9 or 8 mm on down. But I think they make a smaller one with smaller bits for those jobs. The only thing that would be a con on such a product is where the diameter over all or length to clearance would be a factor. This one is about an inch total wide and about a deep socket depth long.

    After about an hour and a half of fighting rusted out bolts on the coil and coil bracket, I finally get it all back together only to realize I bought the wrong coil. I previously installed a MSD ignition system but for the longest time I'd been getting crappy gas mileage ( I personally think there was a problem way back then too though (4 years ago)) so I took it off but put an older model Dakota coil and coil harness (because you have to cut the one off when you put in the MSD ignition) on because that's just what the junk yard had available. I went back over to the Azone and luckily they were still open. Bought the right coil, replaced it and low and behold (after resetting the computer .. negative battery cable off, iginition turned on for 30 seconds, negative battery cable on) everything was running great. Still had a little miss once and again, but everything was A okay.

    I make it into Dallas and the hotel and I think to myself. I want some eggrolls and tacos from Jack in the Crack before I retire. I drove off to the Box only to have my truck stall in the Drive thru Lane. G***********D F***********CKING D**********MN ****************T!! I have to wave people behind me to get out of the way as my truck rolls back out of the drive thru and into a parking space. I've got people looking and laughing as I try to start my truck. No such luck. I'm thinking great. If I just would have been happy with my cookie and water waiting for me back at the hotel, I wouldn't have to be here. After about 3 or 4 more tries it starts and then the loudest backfire I've heard yet (there's still more story) launches out the [non-permissible content removed] end of my truck only to my amusement as I see the people in the drive thru sh*tting themselves. I wasn't in
  • I wasn't in a good area of town btw. I think they call the area.. Dallas if I'm not mistaken..HA I went back to the hotel and ate my stale cookie. Yum. I looked up online what could be the problem and there were many posts about the cam shaft sensor causing problems like the ones I was experiencing.

    The next day my fuel gauge just stops working yet other electrical devices are working. Weird. My truck stalls. I start it back up and now everything is okay again. I first goto Azone for a cam shaft sensor (the plastic ring that sits under the rotor and is held in place by the distributor cap) and they don't have an end that matches what I got in my truck. Great, it's off to the dealership. After a 300% mark up on a 30 dollar part and about 20 minutes of work. I rush out of the parking lot only to find that this was still not the cause of my problems. I goto my next job and finish it. Now work wants me to drive up to McKinney. Great. (I only have clothes for one day. My balls are pretty rank by now. Just a little FYI)

    I make it up there and now it's too late to work because the job is closing for the day. I run by the autozone up there and they said my alternator was putting out no output. What? I removed the positive battery cable and my truck is still running. (apparently, with the new OBD II, that no longer is a good indicator that your alternator is good/bad). He said I need to clean all my battery terminals, check the connection on my alternator (the B+). Which I did to no avail. I drove down to O'Reillys and told them to check the alternator which they did and said it was putting out 76 amps ( I bought the more amperage alternator when I changed it out the last time) His thoughts on the matter was that my transmission was not dropping down and that if it continued it might just very well be the problem. I still don't know why one parts store had different readings than the other, unless of course Azone's alt checker was bad. That's another thing too people. People in the know, may sometimes not be in the know, know what I mean?

    The next day I drive to the new job and my truck doesn't want to start ever. It's just a whole day of suck for me. At the end of the day we leave, and my coworker is following me back to the hotel. The truck started missing and backfiring so bad that he said he could see the sparks shoot out of the tail pipes. It eventually got bad along the way he said sh*t was flying out the rear end and the tone of my exhaust got a little more manly. I make it to the turn lane for the hotel and it dies. I've got my coworker behind me and my boss behind him. I can't get it to start. It just keeps turning over and then... BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM.. ba BOOOOOOOOOMM POOOOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWW It was the like the 4th of July was happening in the cab of my truck. It was awesome. It made both of those guys damn near piss themselves. I wish I had it for Youtube.
    I make it into the parking lot and we all get out and look under the truck. The muffler had been blown in half. Now I'm thinking the cat did get plugged up or broken somehow when the muffler was put on.

    I leave the truck there, goto work, come back and pray that I can make it back to Houston. NOPE. Pulled off to the Meineke downtown and they said I had a bad CAT code, a bad MUFFLER code (??really, a bad muffler code?? right) and a air/fuel mixture ratio code. I asked if I could make it back and they said sure, but it would be loud.

    So now I'm off and I've got nothing but freeway ahead. It's missing and backfiring and I know there's no way I'm getting back. So I pull over and cut the tail pipe before the cat to provide a temporary fix so I can make it back to Houston. This STILL is not the problem. It hasn't been the IAC solenoid, the coil, the alternator, the rotor (which I replaced too) the cam shaft sensor, the cat or the muffler. GEEEEZUS

    I sputter into Ennis and the local mechanic garage there finds the problem. They started just pulling on wires while the engine was running and it killed the engine. They followed the wires back to the ECM (or sometimes PCM as it's referred to) and found that the ECM probably had a broken circuit board. I saw it happen. They started the truck and with a very slight tap of a wrench on top of the ECM, the truck immediately died.

    Unfortunately, you can't just pull a used ECM from the junk yard. I thought you could and those guys said you could too, but they said it would be used and there would be no warranty. I took it to the Dodge dealership there and they've got my truck until Tuesday when the ECM arrives. Am I overpaying? Probably. However, if you buy one online, Dodge still has to flash it with your VIN and I guess I could have looked one up online there and had it shipped.. (crap). Also, if you get a used one from a junk yard, if it doesn't have the same specs as your truck, you run the risk of wasting your money on something that won't work. It's also illegal to sell a truck with a different ECM VIN programmed in (whatever). It's a one shot deal on that, there is no reprogramming it. I thought I was getting hosed, but in the end, they install it, they flash it, it's all their problem if it goes bad.

    SOOOOO, to close. Tap on your ECM (the thing with the three big plugs screwed to the passenger fender by the air intake box) once you have your truck running and see what happens. If your problem is everyonce and awhile. You might try just unscrewing your ECM from the truck and moving it around and possibly shaking it gently. Move them harness wires a bit too as I see sometimes problems arise from bad splices down the wires from the plug harness on other posts

    NOTE: Here's some other things I did wrong that may have contributed to this break down. When I installed my MSD ignition, I wanted to have a super good ground. I was younger then and grabbed the B+ from the alternator and tried to tie it to this ground plug thing I made. ZAAAP blew the 140 amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. (about 8 years ago) Also, I tried those platinum plugs. On a work trip back from Alabama, I heard this crack sound and my truck never did have the greatest fuel mileage after that, even after I put the old copper plugs back in. That's also when I decided to stop using the MSD to see if that would help get the gas mileage back. (around 4 years ago). Which on rare occasions, it did get great gas mileage, but I think I've had a bad ECM for quite a long time. I also did just recently hose wash my engine, as I've done many times before. I can't see that causing a problem, as I stay clear for the most part from the ECM computer. Those things have to be at the least water resistant with rain getting in to the engine compartment. Also, very recently, I've sprayed WD-40 all over and around my rubbers and bushings (i see a joke there, but I can't place it) which helpe
  • Also, very recently, I've sprayed WD-40 all over and around my rubbers and bushings (i see a joke there, but I can't place it) which helped the squeaks for a bit. I don't think I came close to the computer at all. My truck does have 310K miles on it.

    The guy at the car rental place said he had a buddy that wanted to sell his 80's model Chevy for around what I'm going to spend on this ECM. I told him, let me get this straight. I'm going to spend 800 for a used 1980 Chevy?? WOO WOO, oh wait a sec. I could also spend 800 for a used 1998 Dodge Dakota. I told him I would get back to him on that.

    Cheers ya'll,
    Hope something here helped you,
    just an average shmuck
  • I Have a 2000 Dakota Quad Cab, 4.7L 4X4 120500 miles.

    In my earlier post the advice I was given by the dealer and one transmission shop was that my torque converter was slipping during interlock. The problem was more noticeable after my tires got balanced. When truck in neutral or at 35-50 mph, slight vibration. Now in an attempt to get a third opinion, one shop advised that I have a clogged fuel injector. They claimed computer showed, pass side bank was running a little rich. He concluded the torque converter was not bad after getting the truck to breakdown or sputter without the interlock engaged at any speed as long as motor rpms were below 2500. Now I can feel it too. He advised STP fuel injector cleaner at a high concentrate and blow it out on the freeway. After doing just that with no change in ride. After that he felt a clogged injector or failing injector was the problem. I bought two injectors and he put them in, no change, he moved them and still no change.
    **Please note that during all this I have no engine code.
    He also replaced the TPS, no fix. Another mechanic felt that one of the coils might be breaking down. I bought one and put it in and test drove it in all 8 positions, no fix.

    To date, the symptoms and attempted fixes have been as follows:
    First felt vibration at 35-45 mph
    Started feeling it more, went to dealer.
    Drove a week and began to feel more noticeably.
    After fuel injector cleaner, no fix.

    First Diagnostic:
    Transmission fluids slightly dirty, had them change it.
    Old worn plugs, changed myself with exact replacements and proper gap settings (0.40).
    Tires out of balance, Balanced them.
    Flash Updates for ECM and TCM, updated them.
    Went home $450 lighter, still not fixed.

    Second Diagnostic:
    Torque Converter slipping during interlock. Both stated by dealer and first tranny shop.
    or possible bad TCM (no codes)

    Third Diagnostic:
    not torque converter.
    Clogged injector, ran truck hard with double dose of STP, no fix.
    Bought 2 injectors and moved them around, no fix.

    Fourth Diagnostic:
    Possible bad or faulty coil, bought one and played ring around the motor, no fix.

    Fifth Diagnostic:
    Trustworthy Tranny shop states no way it can be torque converter, says it must be tires. With truck off ground and wheels dangling, truck shook on lift, just like on road??

    Sixth Diagnostic:
    New Shop can't find any problem, then suggest rear diff service.
    Finds broken clutch plate and rebuilds. $850
    Problem unchanged and now shop says it is the tires.
    Buy new tires, $650, balance two times and road force balance one time and problems still there.

    After all of the above (over $2000) and hours and hours (priceless) of driving and thinking it feels like an out of round tire. A 35-50mph feels like a slight wobble or hop (tires are good and true and no bent rims) in the rear of the truck.

    Please help!!!!!
    Currently I'm out over $2000 and slightly better than started but not completely gone.
    No OBD codes.

    Could this be a driveshaft bent? Feels to slow and wobbly, not high speed vibration.

    Thanks for your help,
  • Was it a used PCM? If so you may have to have it flashed for your vehicle which only can be done by the dealer even though you # match doesnt mean that the computers are flashed the same way!
  • I have a 98 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 I have recently replaced the motor with a 2000 with 52k on it. Everything was fine with the install and it seemed to be running great until the temperature dropped a couple degrees. What it would do was it would start but while driving it would stall out for no reason. I have picked my brain on this for over a year now and checked everything in the vehicle from the fuel pump, crank sensor to the coil itself. The funny thing is that no check engine light ever showed up. So I though it could be one of the sensors on the throttle body. I had all the old sensors off the orig. motor so I changed them out only the problem got worse. the truck would start then die emediatly after starting especially when cold out. then sometimes it would start and run fine with no problems. I just couldn't seem to nip this problem in the butt. So I figured the problem should be in one of the sensors i replaced so I started with the IAC valve it had black sut all over it so I started to clean it with starting fluid well I had to of them and am a curious person so I figured i would take one of them apart to see how it worked and low and behold I found that both of the sensors had a piece on them that would unscrew from it both of them it looked like they didnt do anything but I was wrong. what they do is screw in and out to allow different airflow to the TB. I cleaned one of them up and the other i left the same as it was just in case the one I took apart after cleaning I could screw the pice that goes inside the TB in and out and the other was still stuck so after finding this out I put the one I cleaned back in the truck and low and behold it fires up with no problems and runs like a dream and never stalls anymore so if your having problems with stalling and not wanting to start I would start at the IAC first to see if it fixes your problems.
  • I recently bought a 98 4x4 dakota slt with 181k (=X) on ran fine until i brought it home. now when i start it, it starts up then starts to die down then it ether revs up again and is fine or stalls. Any help?
  • For many stalling at idle problems from a dead battery, try disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes and then reconnect it. Sometimes, the computer gets a low voltage from a nearly dead battery or a weak one used to try to start the engine. With electronics, an improper voltage will give unpredictable results - the radio also. Disconnecting will force the computer reset to basic program that has a correct idle and then it will reprogram while you are driving.

    Also the Idle Air Control (IAC) has caused me a couple of problems and cleaning it with Carburetor cleaner helped for a while. I finally sprang for a new one. I would first check the IAC for erratic idle problems.

    For stalling while driving, my 92 dodge, 5.2 L 150k hard miles, had the problem caused by an internal computer connection at the cable/computer connector. It would stall at idle or while turning a corner at 25MPH or doing 70 MPH straight on the highway. I replaced all the usual suspects- IAC TPS, CSS, Coil before I finally found a used computer on EBay. That fixed that problem.
    I realized it was the computer because when I tried to restart the engine and turned on the ignition, the check engine light would not come on as it normally does and then go out. I would go to the engine bay and wiggle different wires and noticed that when I moved the computer connection, the check engine light would sometimes come on and only then the engine would start. I checked all the connectors and found it had to be in the computer connection under the epoxy(?) filler where I could not get to fix it.

    Beyond these bits of info, good luck. (I couldn't read the whole thread, especially that guy that wrote the book.)

    I realize it is an old thread, but I hope this info may help someone.

  • I have a 94 Dakota 3.9 automatic 4x4 that dies at will.There is no spark at the plugs,no codes shown fuel pump working. I replaced cam sensor,crank sensor,cap and rotor,plug wires.Checked the splices under relay box and chassis grounds. Truck will run in driveway all day but when you drive it, it stalls.If I disconnect the battery to reset it will start but stall again sometimes within 5 feet sometimes within 2 miles.Last time it stalled I disconnected the cam sensor and plugged it back in and it started.Checked harness and found a heavy guage dark blue wire was running between the intake manifold and valve cover was chaffed and grounding on the cover. Repaired wire still loses spark.I,m at a loss on what to look for.Any suggestoins would be greatly appreciated!
  • I had the same problem with my 1990 3.9 v6. Turned out to be the distributor itself or the moduel within. Auto Zone sells them for around $75. Been working ever since.
  • I love my truck, however, after a few weeks of owning it, I left it parked for two days without starting, it all of a sudden wouldn't start, as if it were out of gas, then it would drive as if nothing and die out, wait a day and it was fine. I took it in twice to the mechanic, first time he replaced a sensor, worked for about an hour then it started again with the same issue of starting when ever it felt like and the rest of the time not staying on. Next the fuel pump was replaced, again it worked for two weeks then I didn't turn it on for two days and it is back at it again. Not sure what to do, neither can my mechanic. If others have had this problem and resolved it, that information would be helpful..thank you
  • alanartalanart Posts: 7
    This Dakota has only 30K mi., from North Dakota. I think it has multiple, intermittent problems that cause stalling under all conditions. (sometimes restarts immediately, sometimes after an hour, and sometimes not until I have replaced some random part..or two and fiddled with it for a few hours.) I repaired an intermittent connection to the fuel pump, this helped the no-fuel stalling condition, now I get an intermittent no-spark condition (and occasional no-power to FP cond.). Since I have owned this truck (6 mo.) I have replaced the fuel pump module, fuel pump connector, spark plugs, cam pos sensor, crank pos sensor, coil, cleaned the IAC ports, fixed the 3-1 connection in the harness under the fuse box, checked the grounds, blah blah blah...I run the OBD codes and always get 12, 55 (normal). Next I'm trying a new used ECM from a truck of the same specs and year. Right now, its in my driveway and it won't start, has spark once in a while. I know if I just keep fiddling with it, it will eventually start, but then it will stall again eventually. This is the worst vehicle I have ever owned. I have had all sorts of cars and trucks and I can diagnose and repair problems very well, but this Dakota's problems are very deep and mysterious. Any comments or encouragement are appreciated.
  • Another PCM probably won't fix the problem. I put in a reman PCM and it died after 235 miles same problem-NO SPARK! I did check the dist. as was recomended to me but didn't replace it. I think I'm going to pull it out and check the pulse ring,gear,and roll pin in it. My 94 has a different type dist. compared to the 90 so that's why I didn't replace it. When my 94 dies, if I disconnect the neg. battery cable or unplug the cam sensor and plug it back in the damn thing starts. I've traced the wire diagram and found that the cam,crank,and speed sensors are all tied together(haven't replaced the speed sensor). Never thrown a code and never acted up. I too have the same codes 12-55.Hope this helps,let me know if you have any luck.
  • elwellelwell Posts: 6
    With my 1990 Dakota I had similar stalling problems. After cheking a the basics I found that it was the distibutor shaft. After changing it out I have not had any more stalling. Aprox. $75 at Autozone.
  • My Dodge will shut off while driving. I will be driving along at speeds under 80km/h and she will lose acceleration and shut off.

    I have changed the plugs and wires. Checked the coils, changed the distributor and rotor button. Even swapped computers with an identical truck to see if that was the problem.

    Once she shuts off she will not start. After letting her sit for a while she will eventually start.

    There also seems to be no fire on the plugs after she does this.

    I am not sure what could be the problem. I am at my end with this truck.
  • seleneselene Posts: 10
    I have a 93 Dakota 3.9. When it quit, I found the problem was the corroded connection in the harness at the left front of the engine compartment. Repaired that! Now, it stumbles and misses when the ambient temp is cold and the engine is cold. After it warms up, it runs fine. I think I may have a leaking intake manifold gasket. Sound reasonable? I plan on changing it, but was wondering if I should change the bolts also? It seems that if they are grade 5 or 8 bolts and aren't cracked, I should be able to reuse them. Any advice or thoughts on my two problems? Thanks. Selena
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    edited July 2011
    First of all, you need to specify year, model and engine size if you want factual
    information. I have a Haynes service manual for my '98 Dodge Dakota 5.2L
    (318) V8. The wiring diagram indicates various sensors on this type of engine
    that provide information to Power Control Module (PCM) or engine management
    computer. In my model there is something called an ASD (auto shutdown relay)
    which is controlled by the PCM. For the PCM to operate this relay (which kills
    the fuel pump/injectors via the Fuel pump relay) AND the power side of the
    ignition coil, a sensor has to be either out of range or faulty.

    It's hard to make any accurate diagnosis of your problem with virtually no
    info to go on, but one place to start is the camshaft sensor. This is a Hall effect
    (solid state) sensor that detects the camshaft "lobes" to determine the firing
    pulse and spark for each cylinder. These have been known to go "wacko"
    where they work sometimes and not at other times.

    I had a 1999 Dodge Ram V8 that would run for 15 minutes,
    then die and wouldn't restart for another half hour or so,
    and then run again for 10-15 minutes and die again and this was
    a repeatable problem. Turned out to be a defective camshaft sensor.
    This is located in the distributor (under the rotor) and can be easily removed
    and replaced with a screwdriver.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    I had a friend with a 1999 Ram 318 V8 that would start up and then die after
    about 10 to 15 minutes of running and then wouldn't start again until left
    for an hour or longer. No engine codes. Checked everything..fuel rail pressure
    all the obvious things...he had it towed into the shop..they changed the crankshaft sensor first..didn't fix the symptom, so then they changed the cam
    sensor (the one inside the distributor that replaces the old fashioned points) and
    that fixed the problem.
    These are solid state "Hall effect" sensors that detect a magnetic cam lobe
    and generator a timing pulse to the PCM. Once in a while they go defective
    in a strange way, but not completely. I carry a spare one around in my
    '98 Dakota, just in case mine starts acting up like that.

    So far, I've only had the stalling problem in very cold weather and only when
    going from reverse to drive. Don't know what that one is about yet..
    whether it's transmission temp related, engine temp related or some other
    critical sensor that shuts it down.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    I have the same problem with my 98 Dakota 318 v8.
    I have heard that these "hall effect" solid state sensors they use in the distributor
    for providing timing pulses to the PCM are known for "whacko" symptoms.
    My 98 Dakota V8 stalls in reverse also in very cold weather, but not after
    the engine warms up and it only stalls once at soon as I put the
    gear selector from R to D, it cuts out. Starts ok after that and I can drive
    off..been like that for several years now..I was thinking it was a sensor, but
    not sure which one, since the 46RE auto transmission used on my truck has
    a temperature sensor, but it is a thermistor, which is a simple sensor compared
    to these hall effect camshaft sensors.
    I have a spare, so I think I will replace it and see if that solves the problem.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    Wow! another long and expensive story. Vibrations at speed can be from
    a number of not being properly balanced or sidewalls on the
    tires deforming at certain speeds causing a vibration at only a certain speed
    and not at other speeds. I had a set of tires once that did that.
    The other posibility would be u-joints on the driveshaft.
  • cmeistercmeister Posts: 1
    edited July 2011

    I have a 99 Dodge Dakota 5.2L. standard. Recently it has been stalling when I have slowed at stop lights or stop signs or when I have going slow around a corner. I have replaced the battery and cleaned the IAC. I was reading on either this forum or another one and read that it could be the Vehicle Speed Sensor. It also runs really really rich. Also both of the mechanics that I got to scan my truck got a no data reading. If anybody could give me any other ideas of what it could be that would be great.

    I know this has probably been brought up on these forums before but I can't find it anymore so I apologize for repeating the thread. Maybe somebody could give me the link to another thread that may be able to help me.

  • roundsddroundsdd Posts: 10
    edited July 2011
    Really sounds like the IAC. I cleaned mine for a while and had to go for a new one. See Post #105 for my problems. Could also be the throttle position sensor (TPS), but I'd go for a new IAC if it cleared up after cleaning and then came back. The IAC gets sluggish and doesn't operate as fast as it should and the engine stalls. If cleaning the IAC didn't help at all, I would try a TPS next.

    Maybe the EGR .
    I also replaced the EGR and the engine ran a lot better at high end. I didn't notice the problem because the computer would adjust for it. I noticed that at 80 MPH towing my boat up hill and floored, it would backfire because it was too lean. A new EGR fixed that.
    Good luck with it.
  • alanartalanart Posts: 7
    check the fuel pressure and the TPS. Either one will cause these symptoms.
  • mender2mender2 Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Dakota 3.9 engine. Run fine except when I pull my travel trailer. After a few miles, about 10, the engine stalls and won't idle. If I keep the reves up to 1500-1800 it runs ok, but not lower. If I let it sit for 15-20 minutes it will idle OK. When pulling trailer the temp gage never goes over 1/2, where it usually runs. I have changed plugs and wires and the mechanics can't find any problem, and there are no error codes. I didn't see any issues like this on the forum, some simular.
  • roundsddroundsdd Posts: 10
    I would check the IAC and then the EGR valve. I assume you have the throttle open more when pulling the trailer because of the weight. That may cause the problem. An EGR that doesn't close makes it run lean, and hotter, and the computer makes up for it and more exhaust gas is recirculated and dirties things up when you get off the gas. If I remember correctly, both are about $50 and easy to install.
    I had to replace both on my 5.2.
    Good luck,
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